Modems & Routers For (true/tt&t) Adsl

[Kalle_Sandare]

Wanted input from people who have been using different Adsl modems or routers bougth from Phantip, Fortune, or somewhere else.

Below is a small list of discussed ADSL Routers that the people have for their different Adsl connections.

But what other ones does "really" work for True ADSL, HiNet, Ji-net and so on?

These are the ones TRUE promotes as working modems.

1) ASKEY-Ale070

2) ZYXEL-Prestige630

3) BILLION-Bipac7000

Others picked from the forum:

Prolink Hurricane 9000P - 2000thb from Phantip

So, who has set up a working system with other adsl modems/wifi/routers, if succsessful give some info of how it was set up. Or what problems did occur.

Don't know if people like to do some statistics, like the following:

City/Area: Bangkok, On Nut

ADSL ISP (True/Kcs/Ji-Net/Hi-Net/Other): TRUE - 1024/512

Modem, Usb/Pci: ZyXEL 630 modem, Usb

Bought from, Price: PhanTip, 1500thb

Extra good features in modem: Ex. Built in Firewall, 4*10/100mb Switch

Macafee Speedotest: 985

Speed kb(DL-Max/DL-Avg): 985/510

Speed kb(UL-Max/UL-Avg): 480/250

Estimated distance to station:

Time from ordering to surfing 13 days.

Other: Initial 3 days problem with sending email.

Hint: To make the average speed, do a test towards the Macafee test site Speedometer , make a few tests during a day calculate a average based on that. So every one keeps the same tests.

Other tests sites or software that might be useful??

Anybody set up a WiFi router with built in Adsl modem? What model? Price?

Why you ask, well maybe you want to use a internet radio, or Wifi media router connected to the TV if your speed is good enough and don't want to pull cables in the house. Cordless phones with built in Wifi, Pda's with wifi chips are on the market allready. Then Skype or something else will pop up supporting those.

Will AIS and the others in the mobile business start to tremble. Nah, not really the coverage of a mobile phone is so huge.

But for a person who is in his office with a 108mb or 54mb wifi lan and connected to the i-net, might be able to be reachable thru a cheap phone system like that. Or you might be laying next to the swimmingpool and waiting for your grandmas internet phonecall.

But the most realistic application now is to share the cost of your "High High Speed" connection with your next door neibourgh or condominium complex :-).

You are probably not using the full power of your speed anyway. Share it with 3-5 people, and voila, the price of having a 4096/512 is not so expencive any more...

Ok you are on the other hand "maybe violating" the "only 1 computer" rule... But who am I to tell. It might be your jelaus neibourgh who don't have the internet..

Solution: Sell him a wifi card (750thb) and charge him 300 thb/month... :-) Did i promote an illegal business here?? You are fined 2000thb if you are caught ... and you might be charged for acting as a ISP without licence.

Syncronising or remote controll the house with your wireless Pda or laptop, other applications... the future will tell.

I saw in Fortune a 54mb Wifi-Adsl router a Linksys WaG54 6500thb and a Barricade G for 6800thb. A cheap 11mb wifi usb lan card was 750thb.

Other prices or good/interesting products, you tell me.

Update:

I now got my connection..... yipeee. After 2,5 years of absence I finally get ADSL again.

My setup:

Linksys WAG54G Adsl router

True Internet: 1024/512 , I made an internet order last sunday, they picked up a id card copy on monday. Friday I got an email telling me my login and password was to be activated 31/7. So just after midnight today 31/7 at 0.05 o'clock I was up and surfing.

Now its time to start playing : Project Entropia from Mindark - Project-entropia untill I become X-eyed.

[kabal1234]

I can't give you any detail since I don't have my ADSL conected yet. But I scoped out panthip looking for a modem since I don't like the USB devices (all TA offered modems are USB)

I wanted a PCI modem but only found one at one shop only and it was like 3,500, so I ended up with an external D-Link LAN router/modem for just over 2,200. It has all the config you need so there should be no compatibility problems with TA.

Overall was quite dissapointed with the range of products on offer.

[gamb00ler]

I'm using True ADSL unlimited internet cafe 512K connection.

My modem is actually a D-Link DSL-500G modem/router. I also have hooked up a Linksys WRT-54G wireless/wired router that I brought from USA ($65 at Walmart in Las Vegas).

I've disabled the router portion of the Linksys and use it as a wireless access point and Ethernet hub for the D-Link modem/router. I chose to use the D-Link as the router because it is easier for me to understand how to re-configure the Linksys.

True technical support had me up and running in minutes. They seemed to know about this modem/router and what values required adjustment.

I bought the D-Link at Panthip for 2500Bt. I couldn't find a simple ADSL modem that used Ethernet connection instead of USB. The Linksys only supports an Ethernet connection.

Sorry, I haven't run any standard speed test but did get 62KBytes/sec throughput on recent download.

[kabal1234]

gamb00ler, that's the router I bought. Could not find any info on it on the net, and the links I did find said it was discontinued and the router itself looked completely different. I want to update the firmware.

Then I went to the D-Link site in Taiwan and I think I saw it, but no links to product updates, firmware etc.

Is your router silver/blue in color or greyish/brown? Really confusing product line!

Have you been able to update the firmware. The latest version apparently fixes some pretty major issues with this device.

[gamb00ler]

Sounds like you got a better deal than I :-)

Yes, your description matches the modem I have. And, like you all I found on the net were notes that this model has been discontinued.

It's doing it's (simple) job just fine so I haven't searched for firmware updates.

Good luck!

[naris]

I'm moving to Bangkok, and my family that I will be staying with currently has DSL service from TA. However its one of those modem with just a USB cable (and no ethernet).

Can I buy any ADSL modem from the U.S. (so that I can hook up a wireless router) to replace the USB one?

[johng]

I am using the D-Link DSL210 usb modem that Hi-net gave to me for free when I signed up to thier service.

Very easy to set up to use it with windows XP

Linux took me two days of experimenting with different perameters before it worked.

Service area is South Pattaya Soi 15 near to Hollywood disco.

Macafee speedometer test is allways about 200.00 Kbps

I have achieved 540 Kbps with mutiple simultaneous downloads

ok it's not excelent but beats a 56k modem

one big "problem" is that Hi-Net hand out IP addresss's in the private range today I got 172.16.20.32

[trigz]

For those that are using the Zyxel Prestige 630 ADSL Modem (one of those recommended by True) its worth checking out the following website:

http://www.adslguide.org.uk/hardware/revie...prestige630.asp

The interesting info is near the end of the page concerning : "Advanced / 'Hidden' Features" !

It would be interesting to know what ADSL modem models the True believers are using ?

[rss]

... so I ended up with an external D-Link LAN router/modem for just over 2,200. It has all the config you need so there should be no compatibility problems with TA.

kabal1234, can you tell me the store where you bought the router/modem? I have just signed up for the TOT ADSL promotion and am in the market for a router.

Also, does it have multiple ports to connect more than one computer at the same time? Thanks in advance.

[kabal1234]

There are many stores selling this router at Panthip... you will find one easily. This model does not have multiple ports, you will need a hub/switch on top of that, however, I believe there is another D-Link model that has 4 or 5 ports built in.

[bubba]

I noticed that True specifically states that you are only allowed a connection to one computer, and they go on to discuss a fine if they discover you to have more than one computer connected.

The question is this: does anyone have a router connected to True broadband service? Does True use MAC filtering for a specific machine so that you cannot add a router or connect a different computer?

[joesohum]

hello there.

im an internet dummy. and all you tech nerds sound like you really know what you are talking about. but for me thai is even easier to understand than what you are saying. heres my stupid question: i have a three year old lap top in my apartment with a typical phone line connection and a KSC internet card for connecting to the internet. im using the house line (dial 9 first) and dont have my own number here as i use a cell phone instead. (1-2call)

so how can i get a faster connection the the internet. what do i need to buy? subscribe to? sign up too? upgrade too? to get a faster and better connection to the internet. i am thinking about buying a new laptop soon. (maybe a sony) should i get a wireless?

thanks for helping me out. please respond in simple english only.

[rss]

so how can i get a faster connection the the internet. what do i need to buy? subscribe to? sign up too? upgrade too? to get a faster and better connection to the internet.

You didn't say what your current connection speed is or what you mean by "faster connection". How much faster? If you would be satisfied with double your current speed then you need to do one thing.

Move.

I don't mean to sound trite but you need to move or get a separate phone line. If you have to dial 9 first, you're going through a house PABX which drastically reduces the speed of your connection. At the very least, you can double your speed if you can connect directly to KSC.

HTH

[Dickie]

Would a DLink DSL504 bought in UK work with Thai phone lines? Would save me needing to sell mine and buy another when I get there.

[MadFrankie]

Would a DLink DSL504 bought in UK work with Thai phone lines? Would save me needing to sell mine and buy another when I get there.

yup

[alex_4000]

using a - fairly expensive - prestige 600 router for TRUE adsl (now TRUE hispeed) as i am connecting to a mac laptop (ethernet-connection) and it works fine!

had to have it setup though as i didnt know enough about the tricks. which is why i didnt bother buying it at panthip again (no service, no moneyback) but with a shop that would set it up for me.

still have a spare one of the beforementioned d-link dsl-500g (ethernet router) for that reason - anbody interested? paid 2600 for it, sell for 1800

[rss]

... anbody interested? paid 2600 for it, sell for 1800

Yes - I am interested if nobody else is. I have sent you an email and a PM with my contact info. Thanks.

[bkk_mike]

I'm using an SMC Barricade

802.11b/g + 4 ethernet ports.

Bought it at Pantip (with no filters) for 6,500 baht a few months ago. (so your 6,800 seems a little high). And the same router is definitely available cheaper in the UK. (Update - saw it for 5,500 at Future Town IT Mall this week, so prices are dropping slowly...)

Using it on True ADSL with no problems. (but I'm not on a single computer restricted deal - but I'm not sure if the deal I'm on is still available - I'm still using trueadsl as my login, not truehisp).

As for the person who suggested buying an ADSL modem in the US - possibly not a good idea if only because of the different voltages. European models are fine here though.

[frenchFARANGbkk]

hi,

anybody using WIFI adsl modem/router with TOT ADSL?

just because I'd like to know right away which one I should buy.

Thank you.

[bubba]

I'm not using TOT or True, but I am using a D-Link 624+ and have had no problems. Set-up is browser based and simple even for first-timers (as I was). It supports 802.11g and has WEP encryptation and the range is quite good. A couple of weeks ago, I saw stacks of them at the top floor computer supermarket in Panthip for 2500 baht (paid 4200 for mine a few months earlier at the networking gear place across from the corner Apple Centre store). By the way the networking gear shop just mentioned has a very good selection of routers and wireless hubs, and some knowledgable staff.

By the way, any wireless router/hub should work with any ISP. It's only the modem that comes before it that might be questionable.

[Limbo]

im an internet dummy. and all you tech nerds sound like you really know what you are talking about. but for me thai is even easier to understand than what you are saying.

I just want to tell you that you are not the only one. My ears are flapping too when I read all this. It makes me feel old, yes, like somebody missing the plane.

Dear Kalle Sandare, by choosing this nick-name you suggest not being the youngest either. Where did you learn all this? Is there hope?

What I learned is that you need a special modem for ADSL. I think 'router' is something similar, but not really the same.

I have a TT&T telephone, but pay my bills to TOT. TOT offers ADSL 500 Baht cheaper than TT&T. That is all I know (about 1100 a month and it is supposed to cover the phone-bill as well).

I also know that in five years time I never got one correct bill from KSC.

And that is all I know. Isn't much, I know that too.

Don't give upp!

[autonomous_unit]

I'm using an SMC Barricade

802.11b/g + 4 ethernet ports.

Bought it at Pantip (with no filters) for 6,500 baht a few months ago. (so your 6,800 seems a little high). And the same router is definitely available cheaper in the UK.

FYI, the Barricade can be had at Pantip for 6000 baht now if you find the right place and haggle a little (I let my Thai in-laws do it). You should be able to find a D-Link DSL-G604T for under 6500 now, as I did. It's a nice little package with the same features as the Barricade. They probably have the same embedded computers I grabbed the latest firmware from the UK branch of the dlink.com website since this product is not currently sold in the US; the original firmware had several obvious problems with configuring the wireless security via the web interface.

For the perplexed on this thread: yes routers and modems are different but these products we're talking about have both integrated in one little appliance. So you plug it into your DSL phone jack, a power outlet, and a computer via twisted-pair or wireless ethernet. I'm not sure it is cost effective as compared to buying separate modem, router, and wireless access point but it sure is more elegant if you are worried about space or jumbles of wires.

[bkk_mike]

What I learned is that you need a special modem for ADSL. I think 'router' is something similar, but not really the same.

I'll try and explain...

An ADSL modem is really just a box to allow a connection to a line with ADSL. (The computer sees it simply as a very fast modem). However, without additional equipment, a standalone modem can only connect to one PC.

An access point is a box that lets you use a Wireless connection to your network (Wi-Fi). 802.11b or 802.11g (faster) are the two types of Wi-Fi allowed in Thailand. However, the default Wi-Fi setup on most routers has zero security on it. (i.e. Unless you change from the default settings, your neighbours will be able to share your internet access). 802.11b and g are standards, so equipment from different manufacturers does work together. However there are faster modes in some cases if you get access points and network cards from the same manufacturer.

A switch / hub is simply a box that you connect multiple computers to when networking them together using network cables. These look like thick phone cables with large phone connectors on the end. (A switch is better than a hub but either will work.)

A router is a box that decides what messages on one network should be passed to another network. (i.e. If you're playing a game on 2 PCs on your home network - the router doesn't pass on that data. But when you try to connect to any computer not in your home network, the router passes it on). (Note: you can set up a PC as a router, if you don't mind leaving the PC turned on while you access the internet from the rest of the network, but unless you have a spare PC lying around and already have an ADSL modem for it, there's no real point in doing this).

The problem is "router" is the name that got kept when manufacturers started putting all these things in the same box. This means you've got to be careful when buying that if you want to use a router to connect to an ADSL line, that the router has a built-in ADSL modem. Also, if you want to hook up multiple PCs, that it includes a hub or switch (and if so, how many ports), and if you want to share that internet line on a wireless network, that the router includes Wi-Fi.

If you buy a router without Wi-Fi and want Wi-Fi later on, it's relatively easy to add an access point, as long as you have a spare network port on the router.

If you buy a router without ADSL, it's very hard to get a standalone ADSL modem that will work with the router. This is because most standalone modems are designed for connecting to a PC, either using a USB connection, or a PCI card.

Setting up a router is a little more complicated than setting up an ADSL modem usually. But once it's setup, you just leave it.

How you want to connect to the internet tells you what you should buy.

If you have more than one PC that you want to connect at the same time you're better off with a router.

If you're using an operating system other than Windows (i.e. Linux / Mac) and don't know 100% that you can get a driver for the modem, you're better off with a router.

If you want to use the internet from around the house, you're better off with a router and an access point (separate or built-in).

If you only have one PC, and it's running Windows 98 or later, and has a spare USB port, or a spare PCI slot, and you're only going to be using it from the one room, you'll be perfectly happy with an ADSL modem.

My own router is an SMC Barricade.

This includes an ADSL modem, 4-port switch, and 802.11g Wi-Fi access.

My own PCs are connected to the router using network cables.

My kids PCs are connected using Wi-Fi, to avoid having to lay cables to their bedroom. For them, I got 802.11g USB network cards. I got USB rather than PCI because it allows me to move the antenna around, and I can unplug it easily if I want to, for instance, disable their internet access, or to give my brother access with his notebook when he visits.

[RBWilson]

TRUE now has a new promotional package - a 3-Com ADSL Modem/Router/Wi-Fi unit; cost is 7500b (+tax) but includes 6 months free service (at 256k). This nets to around 4000b for the modem. I have had it installed for 2 weeks and it works fine. Performance varies depending on thime of day and site being accessed, but around 240k speed is the norm. The package is available at IT City at Pantip (top floor) - for some reason the ever present TRUE booth on the gound floor does not yet promote it, but it is available. The contract for this service does not mention the 'one PC clause' as does the USB modem package (multipe PC connections work fine). My recommendation - stay away from the USB modems - too inflexible; get a router /modem as a minimum. Also, start with 256k as the Thailand Internet infrastructure will usually be your bottleneck - not your connection speed. (You can always upgrade the speed later). At 590b/month it really was a 'no brainer' for me as I have been paying at least that much for 3b/call and ISP service on dial-up. James Hein has had a good series on ADSL in recent BKK Post Database.

[Stefan_BKK]

Hi,

I think the 1 PC rule is very hard to enforce. The true reason is to avoid too much traffic volume on the flat rate and resellers (internet cafes / apartemnt buildings) using this rate which is intended for a traffic mix of private customers.

So if there is no 24h downloading on file sharing systems, I think there should be no problem.

When they started the flatrates in Germany there was also the 1 PC rule. But impossible to enforce. Later followed speed limits on typical file sharing ports. And nowadays volume packets are common and the true flatrates are a bit more expensive.

Probably there will be a similar development here.

Br

Stefan

[MadFrankie]

I've just looked @ the true website and it seems there now chaging 2000 bat for the 512kbps..

[Stefan_BKK]

Price did not change according to this:

http://www.truecorp.co.th/index.php?op=mod...&section=detail

Br

Stefan

[RBWilson]

The 2000b is their standard 'registration' fee which is waved during the current promotion if you have a TRUE (TelecomAsia) phone line. Otherwise, there is a 1000b fee to install a TRUE phone line. Monthly rates are unchanged at 590b/Month for 256; 750b/Month for 512, etc. (per previous post).

[trajan]

What I learned is that you need a special modem for ADSL. I think 'router' is something similar, but not really the same.

I'll try and explain...

An ADSL modem is really just a box to allow a connection to a line with ADSL. (The computer sees it simply as a very fast modem). However, without additional equipment, a standalone modem can only connect to one PC.

An access point is a box that lets you use a Wireless connection to your network (Wi-Fi). 802.11b or 802.11g (faster) are the two types of Wi-Fi allowed in Thailand. However, the default Wi-Fi setup on most routers has zero security on it. (i.e. Unless you change from the default settings, your neighbours will be able to share your internet access). 802.11b and g are standards, so equipment from different manufacturers does work together. However there are faster modes in some cases if you get access points and network cards from the same manufacturer.

A switch / hub is simply a box that you connect multiple computers to when networking them together using network cables. These look like thick phone cables with large phone connectors on the end. (A switch is better than a hub but either will work.)

A router is a box that decides what messages on one network should be passed to another network. (i.e. If you're playing a game on 2 PCs on your home network - the router doesn't pass on that data. But when you try to connect to any computer not in your home network, the router passes it on). (Note: you can set up a PC as a router, if you don't mind leaving the PC turned on while you access the internet from the rest of the network, but unless you have a spare PC lying around and already have an ADSL modem for it, there's no real point in doing this).

The problem is "router" is the name that got kept when manufacturers started putting all these things in the same box. This means you've got to be careful when buying that if you want to use a router to connect to an ADSL line, that the router has a built-in ADSL modem. Also, if you want to hook up multiple PCs, that it includes a hub or switch (and if so, how many ports), and if you want to share that internet line on a wireless network, that the router includes Wi-Fi.

If you buy a router without Wi-Fi and want Wi-Fi later on, it's relatively easy to add an access point, as long as you have a spare network port on the router.

If you buy a router without ADSL, it's very hard to get a standalone ADSL modem that will work with the router. This is because most standalone modems are designed for connecting to a PC, either using a USB connection, or a PCI card.

Setting up a router is a little more complicated than setting up an ADSL modem usually. But once it's setup, you just leave it.

How you want to connect to the internet tells you what you should buy.

If you have more than one PC that you want to connect at the same time you're better off with a router.

If you're using an operating system other than Windows (i.e. Linux / Mac) and don't know 100% that you can get a driver for the modem, you're better off with a router.

If you want to use the internet from around the house, you're better off with a router and an access point (separate or built-in).

If you only have one PC, and it's running Windows 98 or later, and has a spare USB port, or a spare PCI slot, and you're only going to be using it from the one room, you'll be perfectly happy with an ADSL modem.

My own router is an SMC Barricade.

This includes an ADSL modem, 4-port switch, and 802.11g Wi-Fi access.

My own PCs are connected to the router using network cables.

My kids PCs are connected using Wi-Fi, to avoid having to lay cables to their bedroom. For them, I got 802.11g USB network cards. I got USB rather than PCI because it allows me to move the antenna around, and I can unplug it easily if I want to, for instance, disable their internet access, or to give my brother access with his notebook when he visits.

BKK Mike, a few weeks ago, I also got the SMC Barricade modem/wireless access point (and replaced the Zytex? ADSL modem I got free from True). The set-up was easy because of the step-by-step instructions with the SMC. At one point in the process, the set-up process asked what country I was in and then gave me a choice of service providers (including True). The settings were then automatically inserted. The SMC is working great! and I use it with my desktop in my study (I got an D-Link USB wi-fi) and laptop (with built-in wi-fi) everywhere else in my condo and outside. I bought the SMC Barricade in a small shop at Pantip Plaza (which I could not find again if I tried ) I paid 5,300 Baht.

However, you mentioned default settings and zero security. Could you kindly explain how I can change these default settings so I have security on my wireless connection now? Thanks alot!!

[bkk_mike]

However, you mentioned default settings and zero security. Could you kindly explain how I can change these default settings so I have security on my wireless connection now? Thanks alot!!

The main things to change security-wise are:

In the System section

- Change the password. (The default password is the default password on all routers from your manufacturer, so change it.)

In the Wireless section (Do this from a machine hard-wired into the modem, so that you can undo the settings if you have problems, like losing the WEP key after setting it on the router).

Change the SSID (ESSId)

Disable SSID broadcast

If all your connections are 802.11g, set the router to 11g only.

Next is WEP/WPA. - The problem here is that WPA is a newer security standard, so you should only use it if you know in advance that the computers you're connecting with ALL support WPA. (It's a matter of checking that the drivers for the wireless cards you're using all support it).

If they support it, WPA is more secure.

If you can't run WPA, use 128-bit WEP. It's hackable, but not particularly quickly, so someone would have to have a good reason to go to the bother. Just do a search in google for WEP key generators, and you can get a randomised string that can be used as the key. You will need this string (on a floppy / thumb drive / memory card) so that you can enter it on the client machines, after you've set it on the router.

(WEP uses the key you entered to encrypt the signals passed between the clients and the routers. The problem is that the key doesn't change, and people can use trial and error to guess the key - but a 128-bit key will take a lot of guessing. - WPA is an improvement where an algorithm is used to change the key at pre-set intervals).

Once you've done this on the router, you should then go to all your client PCs that connect using wireless, and change the SSID that they connect to (to match the new name), and to have the same WPA/WEP settings as you've just entered into the router.

Finally, in the Firewall settings, you can turn on the MAC filtering. A MAC address is a unique address given to each network card when they're manufactured (including wireless ones). Ideally, you should turn this on when all your PCs are switched on and connected to the router, as that will allow you to copy the MAC addresses from the connection list. (Note: you can't use MAC filtering as the sole security option as it's fairly easy to change the MAC address on a card, allowing a hacker to pretend he's one of your PCs.).

The final step I took personally was to disable file and printer sharing on the PCs in the network. (There is an obvious downside to doing this - but I don't want the kids using up all the ink in my printer, or having access to my computer, and I can use file transfer software to transfer files between PCs manually when necessary. It also means that if someone does get access to the wireless network, they still have to hack their way into the PCs separately, where if you have shared a drive, they would have access to all the information on that drive.)

To summarise, it's little steps, each of which make it harder for someone to hack in. (Simply changing the SSID, and stopping it being broadcast will get rid of most people just looking to piggy-back on your internet access for free.) Make it sufficiently hard, and unless they have a very good reason to hack into your network, they'll move on to someone who's got a less secure setup.

If you do have information on your network that is confidential, you really shouldn't be using a wireless connection. i.e. If a bank used a wireless network, hackers really would have an incentive to hack in, and anything which passes signals outside the building can never be 100% secure.