A Visit To Yai's House

[Lifesabeach]

As the sun rises its rays lighten my room, I know its time to get up and the day is about to begin, although the 16 chickens and 5 ducks that have been clucking and quacking for the last 2 hours did give me some advance warning. When we stop at Yai’s house I’m usually the last one to surface and even though it seems still early to me, the other 11 people who live there are already busy preparing for the day ahead as I come down the stairs. There is a bathroom of sorts but the favored way to wash is with the clay pot and bowl strangely positioned near the entrance gate. The first bowl over me is always the coldest and the rest follow quickly with a pause to lather myself before continuing with a few more. Yai’s neighbor mama Khai, washes in the same way although doesn’t seem to think it necessary to cover her top half while bathing, she’s usually at her pot around the same time as me and I try to avoid eye contact until later in the day. The fire has almost cooked the sticky rice and we all gather for an Isan breakfast, the bowls of murky soup from last night reappear and a couple of baskets of fresh sticky rice. I opt for a fried egg, well cooked with a chunk of cow ni ow. This is washed down with a half cup of coffee, after 9 years of marriage my wife still thinks coffee should be served in half a cup and always puts too much sugar in, I smile and don’t bother pointing this out again. “Where you go today?”, auntie Porn asks, I told her last night that we had planned to go to Tesco today to get a few bits and bobs and knew at the time that I would live to regret this. ”Tesco”, I reply. “I come OK?”, she eagerly asks “Fine”, I reply, knowing that she won’t be the only one interested in a trip out of the village into the big wide world. As we leave the village we have all 11 family members in the truck and pick up a few more neighbors and friends before we clear the village. I notice mama Khai as she climbs in the back and give the hello nod I missed with her earlier this morning at the pots.

I brief the wife that I will do the shopping for us by myself and suggest she takes the kids for an Ice Cream, this should allow me a bit of breathing space to stock up on the essentials I know we’ll need at Yai’s house. I thought that the Ice Cream diversion would have put them off my scent, but as we walk through Tesco’s doors everyone else seems to want to go with me and mine is the only trolley in the group. No time to be leisurely today and I do the shopping quickly to avoid too many extras being put in the trolley. We meet back at the car and load the provisions into the truck. I wasn’t surprised when someone suggested going some where else and everyone agreed. We bought some ice to keep the shopping cool and a drink for everyone while we discussed the way to the waterfall.

We have a choice of two waterfalls to visit one 20 km away and in the same direction as the village; the other is 80km away in the opposite direction. I pipe up that I’ve heard the nearest waterfall is especially beautiful and that there is a little restaurant there that we could all get lunch at. I am surprised at how easily I have just lied, although a waterfall is a waterfall and there is bound to be a little food stall nearby. My idea wins the consensus and we head off for the beautiful waterfall with restaurant attached. We arrive at the entrance to find major road works and construction going on and a sign that informs us that the waterfall is closed. “Never mind”, Yai says, “We can go to the other waterfall instead”. Nearly two hours later after stopping to re-fuel we arrive at the waterfall which surprisingly looks as though it has a half decent restaurant attached. We decide to eat lunch as everyone including myself is rather hungry. Spicy Som Tam and more cow ni ow appear on the table and I try not to look to disappointed that this is the only food they do. I pick up the tab and suggest we go for a swim to help me un-wind after the long drive. The time by now is around 2pm and the water is a lush cooling sensation against the hot rays of the Isan sun. As I float in the pool all I can think of is this moment and how relaxed I feel, the water ripples and I look up. Mama Khai is paddling near the edge and visions of her droopy melons re-appear in my head, she smiles and I smile back. It’s now nearly 4pm and I suggest we make tracks back to the village. We all pile in and head off back to village central.

After a long journey we eventually arrive back at HQ, we un-load and put the shopping away which is surprisingly still intact. The murky soup re-appears and I buy a few beers to wash it down. The mor lam is cranked up and a couple of the aunties start to dance. I wait for jinatra to come on and after a couple more beer changs join in. We all dance the night away and at around midnight I slip off to bed slightly dizzy from the chang. I listen to the sound of the village insects making there carefully choreographed rhyme and drift into an Isan dream world. As I fall into a deep sleep I can hear distantly the wild fowl bird chorus beginning with big bird and daffy duck leading the chant.

[Macx]

Not a bad day

[Neeranam]

Life's a bitch eh?

Isarn people are some of the best in the world, second to Scots.

Whereabouts in Issaan?

[lazeeboy]

Not a bad day

sounds like a nightmare we've all been in one time or another

[samsrex]

thanks for sharing your day out with the family.

[Neeranam]

“Where you go today?”, auntie Porn

Sounds like Barbara Whatsherface.

[Suszzy]

nice story..!!

[bino]

Nice story indeed. Can imagine it all clearly!

[Austhaied]

Sounds like many a day i spent in Isaan years ago. The only thing i would add is the carrying of all the drunks home to their respective houses. Great times.

[plachon]

Great day out apart from two details. Both of them would spoil it for me and leave a bitter taste in the mouth. I refer to having to endure half a cup of sugar-ladened Thai Nescafe (quite probably the worst coffee in the world) and then later the Beer Chang (definitely the worst beer in the world).

Both of these poisons sour the whole Isaan experience imo.

Yeah, somewhat surprised you weren't force-fed lao khao and taken round a karaoke bar on the way back, arriving home blottoed at 2.00 am.

[a2396]

Sounds like many a day i spent in Isaan years ago. The only thing i would add is the carrying of all the drunks home to their respective houses. Great times.

"Great Times"? Not my idea of relaxation. Fortunately, I only have a motorcycle, so I'm not eligible for some of this "fun".

[Austhaied]

Sounds like many a day i spent in Isaan years ago. The only thing i would add is the carrying of all the drunks home to their respective houses. Great times.

"Great Times"? Not my idea of relaxation. Fortunately, I only have a motorcycle, so I'm not eligible for some of this "fun".

It's called a "life experience".. Not everyones cup of tea for sure. My glass is half full, what more can i say.

Hammocks are for relaxation, life is for living.

[kalasin]

Brilliant story, that could describe some of my days in Isaan.

Sometimes the trip include a visit to the dam, but it always include visiting family and friends.

First I would be a bit annoyd about the detour, but now I enjoy it.

I think it is about living your life now, and not wait until you have bought your articles in Tesco.

And by the way - I always bring some bags of coffee.

[coldcrush]

I really enjoyed that story mate and it brings fine memories flooding back. Take care and enjoy your life as it will always be a good one in Isaan! Get the Chang in the cooler...

Edited October 22, 2007 by coldcrush

[ZukiSuzuki]

Sounds like a nightmare, get a decent girl who's family have plenty of cash and she has a good job, leave the country living to the peasants.

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