Shower U Trap

[Monkeypants]

Hi

I am currently building a bungalow and need to source some u traps for the shower, where should these traps be placed and what do they look like

Cheers

[ignis]

[Monkeypants]

Thanks Ignis, but it is shower traps that I am looking for, thanks anyway

[Crossy]

You may be able to get something like this

http://www.tilefixdirect.com/index.php?app...h05387k2epcf0b9 hopefully somewhat cheaper than shown on the Tilefix site

Alternatively your plumbing chap should be able to knock one up from 3 90^o bends

Edited January 7, 2009 by Crossy

[Monkeypants]

Thanks crossy, I now know what to look for, my builder doesn't know they exist , TIT.

[sometime]

In the photo is a sink u bend/trap, unless you have at least 40cm under the shower base (unlikely) for a shower you need a shower p trap its low profile.

Is your shower base a raised acrylic type or tiled concrete, if it is tiled concrete you will have to dig up the shower base unless you fit it outside just before it enters the septic tank. BUT ALL TRAPS MUST BE ACCESSIBLE FOR CLEANING

picture 1 is for acrylic base

piture 2 ideal for tiled concrete as it can be cleaned out from the top

I take it that you live in a house and not a condo

Crossy beat me to it, Thai builders don't normally use anything unless asked hence the smell in most properties

Edited January 7, 2009 by sometime

[Rimmer]

You can buy standard blue pipe U traps for gray water from the same place that sell the blue water pipe fittings. If not Homepro, Homeworks and Homemart stores have them. They have a screw fitting on each end and a small cap at the base of the U to open and drain.

As sometime says unless your house is raised up you will need access to the trap for possible cleaning.

The other item you need if your gray water pipes are connected into the big sewer pipe is a check valve on the gray water pipes.

When a toilet is flushed a slug of water goes down the sewer pipe creating a vacuume that sucks the water out of the U trap, a check valve has a rubber disc inside a little cage that opens allowing the pipe to take in a gasp of air.

Buy from the same place you get your U trap, neither item is expensive.

[Gary A]

Most showers don't have a "J" trap. They use a drain that looks about half a donut and the drain screen has a cup that fits into the half donut. All it has to do is form a gas seal. The cup is always under water and it works fine.

[Crossy]

Most showers don't have a "J" trap. They use a drain that looks about half a donut and the drain screen has a cup that fits into the half donut. All it has to do is form a gas seal. The cup is always under water and it works fine.

Yeah, I think that's what's in the thingy I pictured.

So long as there is a water trap between the drain and the pipe pretty well any arrangement will do the trick. As previously noted, make sure you can get at it to clear the long black hairs out

Edited January 7, 2009 by Crossy

[Lite Beer]

make sure you can get at it to clear the long black hairs out

Yours Crossy?

[Beardog]

Here is what I used 4 90 degree 2" pipe elbows glued together & tested with air pressure to 100 psi & then buried far enough away from the concrete walkway. Just as important to put a vent pipe up from the sink & shower higher than the top of the roof .

I put screen in the ends & a 1/2 " pipe over each end & cut the ends to make a neat cap. This keeps the bugs out & purges the air out of the system & avoids slow draining as well as the gurgling sound. If you build the more modern style (raised level to make a crawl space it is easy to work on opposed to on the ground. 2nd house going up soon will be elevated.No problems with stinkies! Remember on a 4" drain pipe the slope of the pipe needs to be minimum 40-1 for every 40 ft 1 foot slope or 40 meters its 1 meter slope downhill the more the merrier. keep all your toilet runs straight to the septic no 45 degree bends or 90 degree bends & if you can I would add a Y at the end for easy snaking if there is a problem later. If you do it right the 1st time there shouldn't be problems.If your not doing the job make sure they use adequate glue(Enough) most common problem. & last but not least if the plumber tels you Mai Pen Rai (no problem) start to worry- he might as well be saying your a quai.

good luck happy building & hope it is not a very painful building event! home pro has the premade u-traps with a drain which you wont ever use but is premade & ready to go.

Beardog

Edited January 7, 2009 by Beardog

[Beardog]

Here is the attachment last time it wouldn't load

[Monkeypants]

Thanks for your help fellas.

I have 2 sespits dug with 5 concrete rings in each,

One

will be used purely for the toilet and the other for grey water, sinks showers and washing machine, my idea was to run a seperate pipe for each sink, shower.

I then thought that it may be easier to access the u bend (blue 2 inch pipe , with a small screw at the bottom of the U)

quite near to the sess pits so that they can easily be maintained, of course only on the showers, as the toilet has one built in anyway as all toilets, and the sinks will be fitted with u bends as a matter of course.

I am hoping that this should eliminate nasty niffs from the shower.

Thanks again fella's.

Your time in responding is appreciated.

[dumball]

Most showers don't have a "J" trap. They use a drain that looks about half a donut and the drain screen has a cup that fits into the half donut. All it has to do is form a gas seal. The cup is always under water and it works fine.

That kind of 'Cup ' trap is easy to instal , no digging , no muss , no fuss , it traps the hair etc on the top , so very easy to clean .

More important than that I feel , is to get the plumber(?) to ensure the water runs TO THE DRAIN not away from it , which I have found to be the case more often than not .

[Crossy]

More important than that I feel , is to get the plumber(?) to ensure the water runs TO THE DRAIN not away from it , which I have found to be the case more often than not .

Surely you know by now that "Thai water not same Western water, can flow up hill" in the same way as "Thai electric not same Western electric, not need ground".

We have that type of trap in our apartment, unfortunately it was installed before the tiles so I can't open it to clean, at least the water flows into it

[Artisi]

"Surely you know by now that "Thai water not same Western water, can flow up hill........."

Of course, that's why the drains are usually placed at the highest point of the floor/ roof/ road etc.

[StatlerandWaldorf]

Hi

I am currently building a bungalow and need to source some u traps for the shower, where should these traps be placed and what do they look like

Cheers

Another simple option would be to just fit a 'running trap', where the pipe runs horizontally simply fit a U bend in it, the parts then are much easier to source. I did this in my house as the idiots that built it thought I would like the smell of the drains coming into my bathroom.

[StatlerandWaldorf]

Most showers don't have a "J" trap. They use a drain that looks about half a donut and the drain screen has a cup that fits into the half donut. All it has to do is form a gas seal. The cup is always under water and it works fine.

That kind of 'Cup ' trap is easy to instal , no digging , no muss , no fuss , it traps the hair etc on the top , so very easy to clean .

More important than that I feel , is to get the plumber(?) to ensure the water runs TO THE DRAIN not away from it , which I have found to be the case more often than not .

You are right, this kind of trap is very common here, the problem I find is that the water inside evaporates quite quickly and the seal is then gone. Not a problem in a shower that is used regularly but in a spare bathroom it can start to whiff after a day or so.