Need Advice On Broad Spectrum Weedkiller

[VocalNeal]

I wish to treat about 1m wide around the outside of a wall to stop weed/plant growth un against the wall. Which is the best broad spectrum weedkiller that is readily available in Thailand?

[slapout]

Round up is in most of the ag supply stores. Mix it Thai style and it will do for several months.

[VocalNeal]

Round up is in most of the ag supply stores. Mix it Thai style and it will do for several months.

Thanks.

[jaideeguy]

Round up is available here in the Thai form for a fraction of the price of the monsanto original......called glycolol . Just read the active ingredient on a bottle of round up and/or ask for the Thai round up.

Best to use a spreader-sticker and spray on new weed growth.

[drtreelove]

Round up is available here in the Thai form for a fraction of the price of the monsanto original......called glycolol . Just read the active ingredient on a bottle of round up and/or ask for the Thai round up.

Best to use a spreader-sticker and spray on new weed growth.

The active ingredient in Round Up is 'glyphosate'. I have used the "Thai form", a generic brand with 48% glyphosate, but I don't think it is what is says it is, I have to mix it at least two to four times as strong to get the same results as the Monsanto product; even then it takes repeated applications to get control, even on grasses.

Round up is best for contol of grasses, but will kill broadleaf plants too with repeat applications. Be careful about the 'drift' of the herbacide spray, which can harm plants that you want to keep. Don't spray it on shrubs or trees with green stems that you want to keep.

Don't forget that the hoe and shovel are very effective too and will give you a little exercise while you are controlling weeds. Your sweat won't pollute the groundwater.

[Maizefarmer]

Something isn't right here - with the Round Up you are using.

I use it too - by the kilo-litre quantity - it is, along with one other product my primary crop spray, and have never had to apply it in a more concentrated form than what it says on the box - excpet on one occassion.

And the reason for that was - yup, you guessed: yours truely got caught out and was sold a counterfeit drum of the stuff!

I'm wondering if you are not been sold counterfeit Roundup, or alternatively (and I don't know the answer to this 2nd part), is there any difference to the active ingriedent concentration in Roundup sold in so-called commerical/bulk quantities (for large scale agriculture use) versus smaller 500ml - 1litre type quantities sold in garden shops for home use?

Does anyone know?

I know this approach is taken with some herbicides and insecticides sold in the Uk and Europe (and in the USA) as an added safety measure (and no doubt sales and marketing comes into that as well - gets people to buy more).

Actualy on 2nd thoughts, that doesn;t make much sense does it - concentration aside, if you're mixing according to the instructions on the bottle then it should work.

[farmerjo]

Off topic a little but dont want to start a new thread.

I have the standard thai tractor mounted sprayer,standard pump,200 litre plastic drum and three spray nozzels.

With this system to get an even application i have to use 140 litres of water per rai.

Does anybody know where a range of spray nozzles can be purchased that require less volume of water.(eg hardi)

Thanks

[toybits]

Round up or glyphosate is a growth inhibitor. It works well the the weed you are trying to kill is actively growing. It is also what is called a translocated chemical - that is when you apply the chemical, the plant will translocate the chemical to growing points (shoots and roots).

Another type of herbicide is called a contact herbicide. One example is Gramoxone or Paraquat. Please be very careful when using paraquat as it is extremely toxic and banned in many countries. As a contact herbicide, it will kill parts of the plant the chemical comes in contact with - e.g. leaves. If the plant has rhizomes (underground storage roots - like tubers) as nutsedge has, this weed will sprout again even if the leaves have been knocked out.

[toybits]

You could also put a thick layer of mulch.

[Maizefarmer]

Off topic a little but dont want to start a new thread.

I have the standard thai tractor mounted sprayer,standard pump,200 litre plastic drum and three spray nozzels.

With this system to get an even application i have to use 140 litres of water per rai.

Does anybody know where a range of spray nozzles can be purchased that require less volume of water.(eg hardi)

Thanks

Most farm supply shops and large hardware stores will have a range of locally made brass type spary nozzles that do very good job - the problem is you never know the droplet and fan shape/size and pressure/flow rates untill you buy one or two and test them out - but that often is the best way to go about it in any event - and there are so many different types that you are sure to eventually come across one that works for your application.

I use Teejet - never purchased them in Thailand, always brought them back in my case when travelling to Europe, they cost over twcie as much here through the dealer, and that will be the case with Hardi as well. Look up on Hardi on Teejet's website which ones you want and get a family member or contact to buy them for you back home and then send them out a couple at a time in a cheap T-shirt or similar - tied to one of the buttons as some sort of accessory!!

[slapout]

Something isn't right here - with the Round Up you are using.

I use it too - by the kilo-litre quantity - it is, along with one other product my primary crop spray, and have never had to apply it in a more concentrated form than what it says on the box - excpet on one occassion.

And the reason for that was - yup, you guessed: yours truely got caught out and was sold a counterfeit drum of the stuff!

I'm wondering if you are not been sold counterfeit Roundup, or alternatively (and I don't know the answer to this 2nd part), is there any difference to the active ingriedent concentration in Roundup sold in so-called commerical/bulk quantities (for large scale agriculture use) versus smaller 500ml - 1litre type quantities sold in garden shops for home use?

Does anyone know?

I know this approach is taken with some herbicides and insecticides sold in the Uk and Europe (and in the USA) as an added safety measure (and no doubt sales and marketing comes into that as well - gets people to buy more).

Actualy on 2nd thoughts, that doesn;t make much sense does it - concentration aside, if you're mixing according to the Iinstructions on the bottle then it should wor The round up sold in many stores is here is used to control weeds in a growing crop. The original concentrate was sold years ago to kill any growing vegetation and if mixed as per instructions worked good. The deluted mix/chemical on the market here is probably similiar to the rolex watches, dvds, milk etc sold here

[toybits]

Because Round Up is a translocated growth inhibitor, it will only work if the weed you are trying to control is actively growing. Plants have a dormant state which means that while the plant is alive, it is not growing much - as in producing new shoots. It is good for controlling weeds like Cyperus rotundus (one of the world's worst weeds) which is an underground tuber that sprouts in no time if you used the contact herbicide Paraquat (Gramoxone).

So you will have to tickle the plant into growing first - such as by slashing it - to stimulate new growth. Only then should you use Round UP or Glyphosate.

Round up is available here in the Thai form for a fraction of the price of the monsanto original......called glycolol . Just read the active ingredient on a bottle of round up and/or ask for the Thai round up.

Best to use a spreader-sticker and spray on new weed growth.

The active ingredient in Round Up is 'glyphosate'. I have used the "Thai form", a generic brand with 48% glyphosate, but I don't think it is what is says it is, I have to mix it at least two to four times as strong to get the same results as the Monsanto product; even then it takes repeated applications to get control, even on grasses.

Round up is best for contol of grasses, but will kill broadleaf plants too with repeat applications. Be careful about the 'drift' of the herbacide spray, which can harm plants that you want to keep. Don't spray it on shrubs or trees with green stems that you want to keep.

Don't forget that the hoe and shovel are very effective too and will give you a little exercise while you are controlling weeds. Your sweat won't pollute the groundwater.

[Foreverford]

Because Round Up is a translocated growth inhibitor, it will only work if the weed you are trying to control is actively growing. Plants have a dormant state which means that while the plant is alive, it is not growing much - as in producing new shoots. It is good for controlling weeds like Cyperus rotundus (one of the world's worst weeds) which is an underground tuber that sprouts in no time if you used the contact herbicide Paraquat (Gramoxone).

So you will have to tickle the plant into growing first - such as by slashing it - to stimulate new growth. Only then should you use Round UP or Glyphosate.

Round up is available here in the Thai form for a fraction of the price of the monsanto original......called glycolol . Just read the active ingredient on a bottle of round up and/or ask for the Thai round up.

Best to use a spreader-sticker and spray on new weed growth.

The active ingredient in Round Up is 'glyphosate'. I have used the "Thai form", a generic brand with 48% glyphosate, but I don't think it is what is says it is, I have to mix it at least two to four times as strong to get the same results as the Monsanto product; even then it takes repeated applications to get control, even on grasses.

Round up is best for contol of grasses, but will kill broadleaf plants too with repeat applications. Be careful about the 'drift' of the herbacide spray, which can harm plants that you want to keep. Don't spray it on shrubs or trees with green stems that you want to keep.

Don't forget that the hoe and shovel are very effective too and will give you a little exercise while you are controlling weeds. Your sweat won't pollute the groundwater.

Toybits has got it correct all the way. A perfect time to apply this chem is when the plant is getting ready to flower or go to seed. this is when it is at it's most vulnerable state to receive and take this poison down below ground and effectively kill the entire plant system. Bad timing and extra strong mixing of the concentrate will not be as effective. Go by the book in mixing and definitely don't use on plants that aren't in the most active growing or reproductive states. This is a poison and you will be poisoning the earth with it. I was a big fan of this due to it's extremely short half-life and felt that in reality it wasn't that bad of a product but have been informed recently that even though it has a very short half-life there is residuals that still polute. If possible never use poisons but if you have very pernacious nasties and you need to resort to this then do what you are doing and research the best alternatives or the least damaging of your options and do the correct application so it only has to be done once then try to use a very thick layer of compost to keep out any new volunteers and ideally plant something that will occlude the re-immergence of any other plant life.

Just as an idea to an alternative thought on this. The purpose of killing the weeds is to make the wall look nicer or nice all the time. Generally a wall is built for privacy and security. A suggestion in this case would be to plant bouganvillias around the base of your wall. Potted plants are extremely cheap to transplant and you can take any cuttings that are about the diameter of your baby finger and plant them directly in the ground or a pot and keep them wet for a while and you will have very easy success. They are very fast growers and will grow vigorously with good watering. When they don't have water they will bloom magnificently, more water and the blooms are less and the new growth will start pushing out again. They are extremely extremely drought resistant once they are established and only require pruning to maintain them to your desires. The big advantage to these is that they have big thorns that work very effectively to give you extemely good security and they make a boring wall a beautiful masterpiece of magnificent colors. When pruned properly they will create a block to not allow the weeds to grow where you don't want them. good luck and Choke Dee

[VocalNeal]

Off topic a little but dont want to start a new thread.

I have the standard thai tractor mounted sprayer,standard pump,200 litre plastic drum and three spray nozzels.

With this system to get an even application i have to use 140 litres of water per rai.

Does anybody know where a range of spray nozzles can be purchased that require less volume of water.(eg hardi)

Thanks

Farmerjo,

I know nothing about crop spraying which will be evident by my next few words but would the nozzles from the misting air coolers be of any use? they are getting very popular and easily available here.

[farmerjo]

Thanks vn,

But misters are designed for mainly insectiside applications.(hit and miss)

I am looking for fan nozzles for inter row herbicide spraying that will cut my water consuption for 140 litres per rai to 6.5/8 litres per rai of water.

Will follow maizefarmers lead and look on net.

[jtrack33]

I am interested in buying Gramoxone and RoundUp/glyphosate for use in Ubon and near Bangkok. Useful contributions above have mentioned ag. dealers...can anyone kindly give a specific name/location of such dealers who sell in 20 liter and up size containers and any guidelines on price. Any help gratefully received.

[drtreelove]

Round up is available here in the Thai form for a fraction of the price of the monsanto original......called glycolol . Just read the active ingredient on a bottle of round up and/or ask for the Thai round up.

Best to use a spreader-sticker and spray on new weed growth.

I just noticed that this thread is still alive, I hadn't read the replies about timing etc which I appreciate.

My original reply about effectiveness was to the above post on "Thai form" of this systemic herbacide and reduced cost. I have used Round Up for over 30 years in the tree and landscape industy and attended training seminars by University of California cooperative extension specialists. I'm not necessarily proud of putting as much herbacide on the earth that I have, but that was the nature of my work. My point was that you get what you pay for; the generic formulation that I have tried here, is definitely not as effective as Monsanto's Round Up, all other factors of timing etc considered. Or maybe I got a bad batch, (on more than one occasion). I'm not a big fan of Monsanto, but I believe the product is more dependable and I was cautioning about trying to save money by buying a product that takes more to do the job.

FFord, I appreciate your good information and experience, but I disagree on one point about stronger solution not being a factor in effectiveness. The more concentrated the solution the more effective in some cases. Grasses are easily killed with the standard formulation, but broadleafs, especially waxy leaf surfaces, sometimes take a stronger mix and repeated applications to get a complete kill. Also important is the use of surfactants to facilitate penetration of the heavy waxy cuticle of some plants. We use 25% glyphosate as a stump killer (to prevent resprouting), applied immediately after the final cut, no green remaining; the chemical is absorbed by the conductive tissue and translocated throughout the root system. In fact it can translocate through root grafts to nearby trees of the same species. A lower percent solution won't touch it.

[JurgenG]

To control the growth of tall grass, our neighbor advises a mix of urea and the local Round Up (Ga Fo Set, sorry don't know the english name).

Has anybody ever tried this mix ? With which result ?

[Khonwan]

Hi JurgenG

I haven’t mixed it with urea but I can tell you that “Ga Fo Set” is just the Thai pronunciation of glyphosate, which is the main active ingredient.

Rgds

Khonwan

[RedBullHorn]

Mix 6 bottle cap of Gai Fo Set to 20 lit of water will give you the control needed, i used it and no grass growth for 2 months. If you then apply Gramozone on top of Gai Fo Set application after 3 days time, you can control grass and weed growth for another 4 months - total 6 months.

Edited June 15, 2010 by RedBullHorn

[Khonwan]

Mix 6 bottle cap of Gai Fo Set to 20 lit of water ...

Hi RedBullHorn

Your advice depends on the strength of glyphosate being used. The Thai brand I use is sold as 16% and 48%, the 48% version working out cheaper per volume active ingredient.

Rgds

Khonwan

[drtreelove]

Broad spectrum weedkiller:

[howto]

To control the growth of tall grass, our neighbor advises a mix of urea and the local Round Up (Ga Fo Set, sorry don't know the english name).

Has anybody ever tried this mix ? With which result ?

Yes,

Urea (48%) diluted down to 5%.

Gai Fo Set (Glyphosate, Monsanto Roundup, 48%) diluted to 6%.

Note: 3% is recommended for only grass, better to do 6%, else spray 2x.

Very Good results.

Links:

Adding ammonium sulfate to Roundup

and

Getting The Most From Roundup | Publications | Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Station

BTW the Monsanto "Roundup" clearly says to not add a surfactant.

As it has one included already (water based glycerine I think). Most ignore this.

As to the generic Gai Fo Set, I would add the surfactant...LAST.

So 1'st the diluted liquid Urea, the Glyphosate for a 6% final solution, then the surfactant.

Mix well and apply...

then in 3 weeks, the Gramozone, depending upon what you are trying to kill.

Cheers

[JurgenG]

^

Thanks for the reply and the links.

Based on that, do you think it's better to use pond water (filtered) than well water for the mix ?

We use the well water to water to water the plants around the house and we have been told it wasn't recommended and probably the reason why some plants/trees are not doing so well.

PS : Doing a bit of research on the internet I found this trick to test the hardness of the water : The simplest way to determine the hardness of water is the lather/froth test: soap or toothpaste, when agitated, lathers easily in soft water but not in hard water.

Hard water - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Khonwan]

I would think pond water more suitable than well water but rain water best of all.

Rgds

Khonwan

[howto]

You OP was about herbicides...

Concerning this post, actually I can't give you a definitive answer.

There are so very, very many variables.

And this is off-topic as to this Herbicide thread....

I would suggest a new thread.

If you have a large sum of funds "tied-up" in your endeavor, then do...

get a water analysis, and a soil analysis.

And further educate thyself.

You simply have not provided enough solid info for anyone here to assist.

Thanks for that link to "simple hard water test".

Where is Jadetee and maizefarmer????

cheers

[Foreverford]

Broad spectrum weedkiller:

Hey Doc

You definitely posted the oldest broad spectrum killer and proven for most plants. For the pernacious nasty bad boys a friend has had great success with a natural herbicide made with cloves and vinegar. I'll have to get the formula but I'm sure it is something like put a bunch of cloves in vinegar and wait a while and then go kick butt. Though that appears slightly vague, so let me get the formula and post it in a day or two. He says it is extremely effective and even kills that nasty bermuda grass.