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Posted
The OP was considering re-wiring. Crossy rightly says that the standard Thai layout is radial wiring, as for example explained on the CoolThaihouse website, but if you're starting from scratch is it worth putting in ring mains? That is what I've done on the two Thai houses I've wired and the inspector (who admittedly did not seem very thorough) seemed happy enough. What does Crossy think?

I would NOT install rings.

If you use UK ratings (32A breaker) without fused plugs there is a serious danger of fire in the event of overload, someone could pull well over 32A from a 16A rated outlet.

If you stick to 20A breakers there is no point having a ring as 2.5mm2 is happy.

If you check the history of the UK ring it's all down to copper usage (during a post-war shortage), nothing to do with safety at all. The fused plug was necessary to prevent overloads as noted above (original design did not have fused plugs and fires resulted). Many UK installations are now using radials with 4mm2 cable and 32A breakers because they're easier to wire and easier to fault find.

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Posted
The OP was considering re-wiring. Crossy rightly says that the standard Thai layout is radial wiring, as for example explained on the CoolThaihouse website, but if you're starting from scratch is it worth putting in ring mains? That is what I've done on the two Thai houses I've wired and the inspector (who admittedly did not seem very thorough) seemed happy enough. What does Crossy think?

I would NOT install rings.

If you use UK ratings (32A breaker) without fused plugs there is a serious danger of fire in the event of overload, someone could pull well over 32A from a 16A rated outlet.

If you stick to 20A breakers there is no point having a ring as 2.5mm2 is happy.

If you check the history of the UK ring it's all down to copper usage (during a post-war shortage), nothing to do with safety at all. The fused plug was necessary to prevent overloads as noted above (original design did not have fused plugs and fires resulted). Many UK installations are now using radials with 4mm2 cable and 32A breakers because they're easier to wire and easier to fault find.

I fully agree with Crossy.

One reason why electrical in Thailand is such a mess is because it has a mixture of ideas AND there are no electrical installation standards.

What Thailand doesn't need is for DIYers from various countries to wire their homes according to the method used in their countries of origin.

Posted
The OP was considering re-wiring. Crossy rightly says that the standard Thai layout is radial wiring, as for example explained on the CoolThaihouse website, but if you're starting from scratch is it worth putting in ring mains? That is what I've done on the two Thai houses I've wired and the inspector (who admittedly did not seem very thorough) seemed happy enough. What does Crossy think?

I would NOT install rings.

If you use UK ratings (32A breaker) without fused plugs there is a serious danger of fire in the event of overload, someone could pull well over 32A from a 16A rated outlet.

If you stick to 20A breakers there is no point having a ring as 2.5mm2 is happy.

If you check the history of the UK ring it's all down to copper usage (during a post-war shortage), nothing to do with safety at all. The fused plug was necessary to prevent overloads as noted above (original design did not have fused plugs and fires resulted). Many UK installations are now using radials with 4mm2 cable and 32A breakers because they're easier to wire and easier to fault find.

I fully agree with Crossy.

One reason why electrical in Thailand is such a mess is because it has a mixture of ideas AND there are no electrical installation standards.

What Thailand doesn't need is for DIYers from various countries to wire their homes according to the method used in their countries of origin.

Well it is interesting to get the view of the experts. The point about possible overloading (with 32A MCBs in the absence of 13A fuses) is a good one. Luckily my installation has given no problems in 6 years. I think I'll drop down to 20A MCBs.

My rationale for using rings was that in an environment where the air temperature often goes over 30c, radials using 2.5mm cabling wouldn't be able to go much above about 34m total cable length, or an area above about 20m2. A ring on the other hand could have 50m of cabling covering at area of 100m2. Exceeding these recommendations might give rise to a fire risk. In my current house, this would mean that I could not cover the downstairs area with one radial and would have to use at least two positions in the consumer unit, where the ring takes one. I also believed, perhaps wrongly, that in a high temperature environment (where normal rules-of-thumb about current and cable sizes may be iffy) there would be a safety advantage in terms of reduced current loading on 2.5mm cables in a ring (i.e. current passing around both sides) as opposed to a single cable run. However, I have no real quarrel with your alternative argument.

What I would say is, if you are recommending radials, do you need to give any additional guidance on total cable lengths (including spurs)? In larger properties is it worth saying that the area covered could be increased to about 75M2 by using 4mm cabling and 32A MCBs? The latter would again come up against the issue of no 13A fuses for overload protection though.

Incidentally, regarding the last post, I know at least one UK sparkie who has wired his second home in Thailand with rings, so it isn't just the DIY'ers. It is also the case that the UK has both rings and radials (in both 2.5mm and 4mm types), and the electricians seem to cope. Regarding standards have you ever lived in an Isaan village and seen local electricians at work?

Posted

If you're worried about volt drop ^^^, then use a ring (or 4mm2 cable) by all means but it MUST still only have a 20A breaker to protect the outlets.

There is a handy volt-drop calculator here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/VoltageDrop.htm

There is no hard and fast rule on coverage areas, you are unlikely to have a fully loaded (16A) outlet at the far end of a long radial, even if you did the drop would only be about 6% at 45m from the CU, even loaded to a full 20A at the far end you're looking at about 7.5% drop.

It IS worth doing the sums if you have, for example, a workshop with high power machines. But in a normal domestic environment wire with 2.5mm2 and 20A breakers, keeping to 4 or 5 double outlets (one rooms worth) per radial and all will be fine even in the larger homes.

Posted
If you're worried about volt drop ^^^, then use a ring (or 4mm2 cable) by all means but it MUST still only have a 20A breaker to protect the outlets.

There is a handy volt-drop calculator here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/VoltageDrop.htm

There is no hard and fast rule on coverage areas, you are unlikely to have a fully loaded (16A) outlet at the far end of a long radial, even if you did the drop would only be about 6% at 45m from the CU, even loaded to a full 20A at the far end you're looking at about 7.5% drop.

It IS worth doing the sums if you have, for example, a workshop with high power machines. But in a normal domestic environment wire with 2.5mm2 and 20A breakers, keeping to 4 or 5 double outlets (one rooms worth) per radial and all will be fine even in the larger homes.

Guess you are right that the problem is likely to be voltage drop rather than anything else with the proper MCD. I thought there were guidelines in the 16th ed regs. Here is an extract from Whitfield's Electricians' Guide to the IEE 16th Ed. You'll see that it does give recommendations on floor area.

6.3.3 - The radial circuit

Two types of radial circuit are permitted for socket outlets. In neither case is the number of sockets to be supplied specified, so the number will be subject to the constraints of load and diversity. The two standard circuits are:

1. - 20 A fuse or miniature circuit breaker protection with 2.5 mm² live and 1.5mm² protective conductors (or 1.5 mm² if m.i. cable) feeding a floor area of not more than 50 m². If the circuit feeds a kitchen or utility room, it must be remembered that a 3 kW device such as a washing machine or a tumble dryer takes 12.5 A at 240 V and that this leaves little capacity for the rest of the sockets.

2. - 32 A cartridge fuse to B888 or miniature circuit breaker feeding through 4 mm² live and 2.5 mm² protective conductors (or 2.5 mm² and 1.5 mm² if m.i. Cable) to supply a floor area no greater than 75m².

Posted
If you're worried about volt drop ^^^, then use a ring (or 4mm2 cable) by all means but it MUST still only have a 20A breaker to protect the outlets.

There is a handy volt-drop calculator here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/VoltageDrop.htm

There is no hard and fast rule on coverage areas, you are unlikely to have a fully loaded (16A) outlet at the far end of a long radial, even if you did the drop would only be about 6% at 45m from the CU, even loaded to a full 20A at the far end you're looking at about 7.5% drop.

It IS worth doing the sums if you have, for example, a workshop with high power machines. But in a normal domestic environment wire with 2.5mm2 and 20A breakers, keeping to 4 or 5 double outlets (one rooms worth) per radial and all will be fine even in the larger homes.

Guess you are right that the problem is likely to be voltage drop rather than anything else with the proper MCD. I thought there were guidelines in the 16th ed regs. Here is an extract from Whitfield's Electricians' Guide to the IEE 16th Ed. You'll see that it does give recommendations on floor area.

6.3.3 - The radial circuit

Two types of radial circuit are permitted for socket outlets. In neither case is the number of sockets to be supplied specified, so the number will be subject to the constraints of load and diversity. The two standard circuits are:

1. - 20 A fuse or miniature circuit breaker protection with 2.5 mm² live and 1.5mm² protective conductors (or 1.5 mm² if m.i. cable) feeding a floor area of not more than 50 m². If the circuit feeds a kitchen or utility room, it must be remembered that a 3 kW device such as a washing machine or a tumble dryer takes 12.5 A at 240 V and that this leaves little capacity for the rest of the sockets.

2. - 32 A cartridge fuse to BS88 or miniature circuit breaker feeding through 4 mm² live and 2.5 mm² protective conductors (or 2.5 mm² and 1.5 mm² if m.i. Cable) to supply a floor area no greater than 75m².

I'd take Crossy's advice...don't worry about it.

If millions of homes in Australia are wired radially, without problems, you have no cause for concern.

The Australian Wiring Rules follow the IEC rules in many cases. Of course, the Australian rules have been slightly modified to accommodate a higher ambient temperature (40 degrees Celsius), which simply assists you or anybody else in Thailand.

I thought there were guidelines in the 16th ed regs. Here is an extract from Whitfield's Electricians' Guide to the IEE 16th Ed. You'll see that it does give recommendations on floor area.

The Australian rules offer similar guidelines but these are only guidelines (not Normative rules).

If Thailand is to achieve any kind of domestic wiring standardisation, then a standard approach must begin to take place. Thai electricians can barely cope with any normal type of electrical work, let alone any confusion created by someone using a different installtion method.

Stick with the radial concept. You may need to use more CB's but at the end of the day, you will (& Thailand) be better off.

Posted
If you're worried about volt drop ^^^, then use a ring (or 4mm2 cable) by all means but it MUST still only have a 20A breaker to protect the outlets.

There is a handy volt-drop calculator here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/VoltageDrop.htm

There is no hard and fast rule on coverage areas, you are unlikely to have a fully loaded (16A) outlet at the far end of a long radial, even if you did the drop would only be about 6% at 45m from the CU, even loaded to a full 20A at the far end you're looking at about 7.5% drop.

It IS worth doing the sums if you have, for example, a workshop with high power machines. But in a normal domestic environment wire with 2.5mm2 and 20A breakers, keeping to 4 or 5 double outlets (one rooms worth) per radial and all will be fine even in the larger homes.

crossy do you think that it would be beter to use a 16amp mcb on any outlet rarther than the 20amp as most appliances the we use here only need a 10amp or even a 6amp mcb this could be done on 2.5 or 4m/m

then run a seperate line for the highpower stuff like the iron and kettle on a 20amp mcb

a ring main is not a good option here

Posted
The OP was considering re-wiring. Crossy rightly says that the standard Thai layout is radial wiring, as for example explained on the CoolThaihouse website, but if you're starting from scratch is it worth putting in ring mains? That is what I've done on the two Thai houses I've wired and the inspector (who admittedly did not seem very thorough) seemed happy enough. What does Crossy think?

I would NOT install rings.

If you use UK ratings (32A breaker) without fused plugs there is a serious danger of fire in the event of overload, someone could pull well over 32A from a 16A rated outlet.

If you stick to 20A breakers there is no point having a ring as 2.5mm2 is happy.

If you check the history of the UK ring it's all down to copper usage (during a post-war shortage), nothing to do with safety at all. The fused plug was necessary to prevent overloads as noted above (original design did not have fused plugs and fires resulted). Many UK installations are now using radials with 4mm2 cable and 32A breakers because they're easier to wire and easier to fault find.

the problem with the ring is no fuse at the plug so if the ring is on a 32amp mcb thats the only protection your appliance will have

ie a table lamp needs a 3amp fuse pluged into the ring main here and its coverd by 32amp

I fully agree with Crossy.

One reason why electrical in Thailand is such a mess is because it has a mixture of ideas AND there are no electrical installation standards.

What Thailand doesn't need is for DIYers from various countries to wire their homes according to the method used in their countries of origin.

Well it is interesting to get the view of the experts. The point about possible overloading (with 32A MCBs in the absence of 13A fuses) is a good one. Luckily my installation has given no problems in 6 years. I think I'll drop down to 20A MCBs.

My rationale for using rings was that in an environment where the air temperature often goes over 30c, radials using 2.5mm cabling wouldn't be able to go much above about 34m total cable length, or an area above about 20m2. A ring on the other hand could have 50m of cabling covering at area of 100m2. Exceeding these recommendations might give rise to a fire risk. In my current house, this would mean that I could not cover the downstairs area with one radial and would have to use at least two positions in the consumer unit, where the ring takes one. I also believed, perhaps wrongly, that in a high temperature environment (where normal rules-of-thumb about current and cable sizes may be iffy) there would be a safety advantage in terms of reduced current loading on 2.5mm cables in a ring (i.e. current passing around both sides) as opposed to a single cable run. However, I have no real quarrel with your alternative argument.

What I would say is, if you are recommending radials, do you need to give any additional guidance on total cable lengths (including spurs)? In larger properties is it worth saying that the area covered could be increased to about 75M2 by using 4mm cabling and 32A MCBs? The latter would again come up against the issue of no 13A fuses for overload protection though.

Incidentally, regarding the last post, I know at least one UK sparkie who has wired his second home in Thailand with rings, so it isn't just the DIY'ers. It is also the case that the UK has both rings and radials (in both 2.5mm and 4mm types), and the electricians seem to cope. Regarding standards have you ever lived in an Isaan village and seen local electricians at work?

the problem is no fuse in the plug so everything you use is coverd by the mcb at the cu so a ring with a 32amp mcb is way over what you need for say a tv that only needs a 3amp fuse

Posted
the ones from global are live on the right the brand name is lonon 13amp 250v

post-30923-1248105613_thumb.jpg[

Trouble is, if you plug a Thai 3-pin plug in it will be wrongly connected :)

With any of the universals you can't get them to be correct for all plugs :D

but iwould it matter as the thais dont have a fuse fitted in the plug and the issue was the live was to the left in the ones you had seen

it was the uk appliance and plug that needed the live on the right

i have just looked at all my thai appliances and all bought here within the last two years the washing machine,toaster,kettle,iron, small oven and mirowave all brand names and all have two pin plugs

the only thing that has a three pin plug is my desk top pc

do you know if the thais fit an earth to the appliances that have three pin plugs fitted?

Posted
the ones from global are live on the right the brand name is lonon 13amp 250v

post-30923-1248105613_thumb.jpg[

That's good to know for everyone and just to keep the thread informative for all....I take it Global is the retailer(outlet),do you have a link to a site??

Thanks djc45

hi soket i cannot find a web site for Global house but the one in Khon Kaen is near the airport

Posted
the ones from global are live on the right the brand name is lonon 13amp 250v

post-30923-1248105613_thumb.jpg[

Trouble is, if you plug a Thai 3-pin plug in it will be wrongly connected :)

With any of the universals you can't get them to be correct for all plugs :D

Oh dear,spanner in the works..........I thought it was done and dusted......but obviously not quite.

So what are my options here......can I use universal outlets with live on the left and remove UK plugs from appliances and use Thai 3 pin plugs instead,are these Thai 3 pin plugs fused and does it matter if they are not???

Will that be the best answer for what I want to do??

Posted
the ones from global are live on the right the brand name is lonon 13amp 250v

post-30923-1248105613_thumb.jpg[

Trouble is, if you plug a Thai 3-pin plug in it will be wrongly connected :)

With any of the universals you can't get them to be correct for all plugs :D

Oh dear,spanner in the works..........I thought it was done and dusted......but obviously not quite.

So what are my options here......can I use universal outlets with live on the left and remove UK plugs from appliances and use Thai 3 pin plugs instead,are these Thai 3 pin plugs fused and does it matter if they are not???

Will that be the best answer for what I want to do??

TIT up to u.................

as it is only uk stuff you would be useing i would go for the live on the right with the ones from global then your stuff will be protected as in the uk the three pin thai plug does not have a fuse

see my repiy to crossy

Posted

is there a colour code for the wires from an appliance here in thailand

ie in the uk brown or red is live black or blue is neutral

Posted
the ones from global are live on the right the brand name is lonon 13amp 250v

post-30923-1248105613_thumb.jpg[

Trouble is, if you plug a Thai 3-pin plug in it will be wrongly connected :)

With any of the universals you can't get them to be correct for all plugs :D

Using the lonon universal type outlet

As far as I am aware the uk is the only country to use a fused plug

as domestic plug in appliances are not polarity sensitive then the only affect of the live being on the left in some thai outlets is the fuse would not be protecting the live

so given the choice I would use the outlet that is live on the right then any thing with a uk fused plug fitted would have the proper protection

anything else the would be used in the universal outlet that did not have the uk plug fitted would be protected buy the mcb in the cu

post-30923-1248374978_thumb.jpg

Posted

If as I suspect that most thai appliances used do not have an earth fitted to the plug from the appliance is there any advantage running an earth to every outlet or would it be a waste of time and money ???????????? :)

Posted
hi soket i cannot find a web site for Global house but the one in Khon Kaen is near the airport

I think I found it,although browsing the site is limited as you get so far, and then nothing becomes clickable and you can't go any further....weird.

http://globalhouse.co.th/en/index.php?opti...5&Itemid=37

Is that the right place?

see my repiy to crossy

Yep got that.....you must of posted that while I was composing my post.I'm sure it wasn't there before....lol

so given the choice I would use the outlet that is live on the right then any thing with a uk fused plug fitted would have the proper protection

anything else the would be used in the universal outlet that did not have the uk plug fitted would be protected buy the mcb in the cu

Yep OK that might be the way to go then,and if the thai 3 pin plug is not in widespread use on new appliances from manufacturers then I might not run into that particular issue........and I suppose if I ever sold on the property to a local (although I don't see that happening) then I would just have to change all the outlets to universal with live on the left......yeah??

You guys are so helpful and I really appreciate it.

(djc45 - talk to you soon,cheers)

Posted
hi soket i cannot find a web site for Global house but the one in Khon Kaen is near the airport

I think I found it,although browsing the site is limited as you get so far, and then nothing becomes clickable and you can't go any further....weird.

http://globalhouse.co.th/en/index.php?opti...5&Itemid=37

Is that the right place?

see my repiy to crossy

Yep got that.....you must of posted that while I was composing my post.I'm sure it wasn't there before....lol

so given the choice I would use the outlet that is live on the right then any thing with a uk fused plug fitted would have the proper protection

anything else the would be used in the universal outlet that did not have the uk plug fitted would be protected buy the mcb in the cu

Yep OK that might be the way to go then,and if the thai 3 pin plug is not in widespread use on new appliances from manufacturers then I might not run into that particular issue........and I suppose if I ever sold on the property to a local (although I don't see that happening) then I would just have to change all the outlets to universal with live on the left......yeah??

You guys are so helpful and I really appreciate it.

(djc45 - talk to you soon,cheers)

i doubt you would need to change anything to live on the left the ones that are live on the right are isold for the thai market and the issue with live on right or left is only for the uk fused plug as you need the fuse on the live

as for thai

for thai electrical regs or working practice I am unsure what would be required I have two properties here in Thailand both were wired by thai “electricians” in one they use white live black natural and in the other it’s the opposite

http://globalhouse.co.th/en/index.php?opti...5&Itemid=37

thats the one but not much of a web site

Posted

I am thinking the manufacturers of the basic appliances for Thailand know that many places only have the standard two pin receptacles and the "new" 3 pin is not common. It's far easier and cheaper to supply a mains cord on their appliance that is 2 pin and know that it will plug in everywhere in Thailand.

If an appliance needs to be grounded they in some cases provide a ground wire attached to the metal case of the appliance for external grounding. In the user manual they will reference this. As is the case with my microwave. And now my new refrigerator. The fridge has a 2 pin plug(not polarized) and the manual recommends a ground wire be used in cases of 2 pin countries. They do not supply the wire.

Posted

Equipment which is not earthed is usually called ‘double insulated’ or ‘Class II’ and is marked with the ‘double square’ symbol The cable has two wires. Equipment not marked with this symbol is usually earthed and is called ‘Class I’. The cable has three wires. this applies to uk bought equipment i dont know if thailand has the same identifications for double insulated’ equipment

Posted
If as I suspect that most thai appliances used do not have an earth fitted to the plug from the appliance is there any advantage running an earth to every outlet or would it be a waste of time and money ???????????? :)

Most of my larger Thai appliances (washing machine, microwave, electric oven, grill, vacuum cleaner etc) have the Schuko (or Type F) plug fitted. I think Crossy has probably explained all this ad infinitum on his website but the problem with this plug is that the (female) ground connector doesn't mate with the (female) ground on the normal Thai 3-pin wall socket. Apart from the example on the other recent thread in this section, all the ones I have seen do in fact have three wires inside, so the appliances are easily adapted to use with a ground. This makes me think it is worth having grounded sockets. Incidentally I have heard that it is possible to get an adapter for Schuko plugs (just a pin to convert the female earth connector to male) in Central department stores, but I've never been able to find this item.

I hear what everybody says about rings and agree the MCB has got to come down to maximum of 20A (given no plug fuses). However if that is done and there are no wiring errors, I do not see a special safety problem with rings in Thailand. One of the traditional advantages claimed for rings was earth continuity where a ground wire is broken, which you will not have on a radial with an earth fault condition. Also the radial will still have the problem that everything is on a 20amp (or whatever) MCB and say 3 amp equipment is not properly protected, as is the case in much of Europe. It is hard to get around this without separate circuits (another of the claimed advantages of the alternative system of the ring plus differentially-rated fused plugs). The old UK system used different sized plugs and cabling for differently rated appliances, but was very complicated. Crossy's argument was that the ring is not needed as 2.5mm is 'happy' with a single cable, which may be true, but doesn't suggest to me that there is a good reason why I should separate an existing ring into two radials.

Posted
OK,I've found a few helpful snippets of info and a very good link by the user Crossy,but nothing specific to my needs.

I'm gonna buy a bungalow type home in Thailand,I have previously rented and lived in it,but am in the UK at the moment.

My ultimate plan is to ship all my household goods to this property and that will include a free standing electric oven/hob,LCD TV,HiFi,computer equipment.....you know,the usual goods one accumulates along the way.Anyway my question is, that the current wiring in this property is 2 core with cheap nasty 2 pin outlets that let anything that's plugged in fall straight out.What is the best option for me to have the electrics capable of running all my UK appliances,3 pin plug.

What I'd like to do is to take all the necessary items to turn the wiring into a UK compatible set up.I would buy the Fuse Box,plug sockets and anything else needed from the UK.Is that a feasible option??.I realise that this will/may entail having the whole property rewired,which I dont mind being done....can I do this,I keep reading about earthing problems and earth rods,is that gonna affect me.I don't plan on doing the work myself but just want to know if it's possible.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

To be perfectly honest with you...just change the connectors of your electrical items. You might need it somewhere else too, right? Buy the plugs with the round connectors. It's cheap and it will work. Have a nice one. Greetings from Sisaket.

Posted
If as I suspect that most thai appliances used do not have an earth fitted to the plug from the appliance is there any advantage running an earth to every outlet or would it be a waste of time and money ???????????? :)

Most of my larger Thai appliances (washing machine, microwave, electric oven, grill, vacuum cleaner etc) have the Schuko (or Type F) plug fitted. I think Crossy has probably explained all this ad infinitum on his website but the problem with this plug is that the (female) ground connector doesn't mate with the (female) ground on the normal Thai 3-pin wall socket. Apart from the example on the other recent thread in this section, all the ones I have seen do in fact have three wires inside, so the appliances are easily adapted to use with a ground. This makes me think it is worth having grounded sockets. Incidentally I have heard that it is possible to get an adapter for Schuko plugs (just a pin to convert the female earth connector to male) in Central department stores, but I've never been able to find this item.

I hear what everybody says about rings and agree the MCB has got to come down to maximum of 20A (given no plug fuses). However if that is done and there are no wiring errors, I do not see a special safety problem with rings in Thailand. One of the traditional advantages claimed for rings was earth continuity where a ground wire is broken, which you will not have on a radial with an earth fault condition. Also the radial will still have the problem that everything is on a 20amp (or whatever) MCB and say 3 amp equipment is not properly protected, as is the case in much of Europe. It is hard to get around this without separate circuits (another of the claimed advantages of the alternative system of the ring plus differentially-rated fused plugs). The old UK system used different sized plugs and cabling for differently rated appliances, but was very complicated. Crossy's argument was that the ring is not needed as 2.5mm is 'happy' with a single cable, which may be true, but doesn't suggest to me that there is a good reason why I should separate an existing ring into two radials.

good point about the earth cut of the fitted plug and fit a 3 pin plug but what wiregoes where in the new plug are the wires the same as the uk ie brown live blue netural geen/yellow for the earth .......... i saw in another post where a plug had been cut of the power supply to a pc and i think there were six wires not three

as for a ring main i would leave it but the mcb should be 16amp or 20amp but i cannot see why20amp has been sujested i think 16amp would do fine

Posted
OK,I've found a few helpful snippets of info and a very good link by the user Crossy,but nothing specific to my needs.

I'm gonna buy a bungalow type home in Thailand,I have previously rented and lived in it,but am in the UK at the moment.

My ultimate plan is to ship all my household goods to this property and that will include a free standing electric oven/hob,LCD TV,HiFi,computer equipment.....you know,the usual goods one accumulates along the way.Anyway my question is, that the current wiring in this property is 2 core with cheap nasty 2 pin outlets that let anything that's plugged in fall straight out.What is the best option for me to have the electrics capable of running all my UK appliances,3 pin plug.

What I'd like to do is to take all the necessary items to turn the wiring into a UK compatible set up.I would buy the Fuse Box,plug sockets and anything else needed from the UK.Is that a feasible option??.I realise that this will/may entail having the whole property rewired,which I dont mind being done....can I do this,I keep reading about earthing problems and earth rods,is that gonna affect me.I don't plan on doing the work myself but just want to know if it's possible.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

To be perfectly honest with you...just change the connectors of your electrical items. You might need it somewhere else too, right? Buy the plugs with the round connectors. It's cheap and it will work. Have a nice one. Greetings from Sisaket.

if the op is shipping his uk stuff to use in his house then its a good idea to have some outlets that will accept the uk plug with an earth its only the portable stuff he might want to change but even then an adapter would be fine for short term use

Posted

1] There is no such thing as a "wiring colour code" in Thailand. There is confusion created by the American system (black & white) & the European system (other colours). There is also no such thing as Domestic Wiring Rules in Thailand, which therefore allows all & sundry to do what they want.

2] Ring Mains may be ok in the UK but unless you know all about "fault current" & fuses, do not apply the UK "fused plug" rule here in Thailand.

3] There is no problem whatsoever with a "radial" system if the maximum demand has been done correctly. This also applies to the "ring main" system. If you don't know anything about maximum demand, you need to contact someone who does know about this. Generally speaking, a Thai electrician will not know a thing about this. Who should you be speaking to? Preferably an electrician from a "hot" (high ambient temperature) country. Preferably somebody who comes from a country where European Standards are used & the temperature is similar to Thailand.

As far as the position of the "active" (hot) is concerned, crossy's website should explain. This position MUST NOT be changed.

Posted

I have lived here in LOS long enough now to realize that the system standard is "There is no standard" when it comes to home wiring. The Thai electricians know this. It's we "invaders" from the foreign land that come in here preaching all this new stuff and it confuses them.

I am lucky to have a Thai Sparky wiring my house that really has the smarts and has a "standard" that he uses. Is it the same as my USA NEC standard? No. But I can adjust. I would not think of asking him to use the NEC code colors. If he has to install something later or repair something I want him to feel comfortable and not make more confusion. He understands the IEC code of brown-live, blue-neutral and yellow-green=earth.

He is using green for earth, black for neutral and colors other than black or green for load.

The 3 phase is blue, red and black not in that order.

More important than the colors is he is doing a good job of installing the system and balancing the load and applying the requests I have to install the correct sized and type of breakers.

If one house uses green for earth and the next uses black for earth it does not work in our book of standards and common practices but at least it works. Now if they switch colors within the same house or even on the same circuit. My guess this happens in rural LOS a lot.

I know I have a safe wiring system! I watched it all get installed.

Posted
Incidentally I have heard that it is possible to get an adapter for Schuko plugs (just a pin to convert the female earth connector to male) in Central department stores, but I've never been able to find this item.

They look like this:-

schuko-2.jpg

and look like this when fitted

schuko-3.jpg

and are on the stand with the other WonPro adaptors, available in HomePro.

Posted
1] There is no such thing as a "wiring colour code" in Thailand. There is confusion created by the American system (black & white) & the European system (other colours). There is also no such thing as Domestic Wiring Rules in Thailand, which therefore allows all & sundry to do what they want.

2] Ring Mains may be ok in the UK but unless you know all about "fault current" & fuses, do not apply the UK "fused plug" rule here in Thailand.

3] There is no problem whatsoever with a "radial" system if the maximum demand has been done correctly. This also applies to the "ring main" system. If you don't know anything about maximum demand, you need to contact someone who does know about this. Generally speaking, a Thai electrician will not know a thing about this. Who should you be speaking to? Preferably an electrician from a "hot" (high ambient temperature) country. Preferably somebody who comes from a country where European Standards are used & the temperature is similar to Thailand.

As far as the position of the "active" (hot) is concerned, crossy's website should explain. This position MUST NOT be changed.

I don’t see any logic in your post other than just to confuse the issue

I doubt if 95% of people who use the ring main know anything about "fault current" & fuses in the uk so why would you need to know here?

3] There is no problem whatsoever with a "radial" system if the maximum demand has been done correctly. This also applies to the "ring main" system. If you don't know anything about maximum demand, you need to contact someone who does know about this. Generally speaking, a Thai electrician will not know a thing about this. Who should you be speaking to? Preferably an electrician from a "hot" (high ambient temperature) country. Preferably somebody who comes from a country where European Standards are used & the temperature is similar to Thailand.

So are you saying we should live in Thailand but not use the electrics if a thai has done them

Posted
Incidentally I have heard that it is possible to get an adapter for Schuko plugs (just a pin to convert the female earth connector to male) in Central department stores, but I've never been able to find this item.

They look like this:-

schuko-2.jpg

and look like this when fitted

schuko-3.jpg

and are on the stand with the other WonPro adaptors, available in HomePro.

this is far better than cutting of the plug and fitting a new one thanks crossy

Posted

In my opinion it is not better than fitting a new plug, although easier, as that adapter will take up too much space on a dual outlet to use anything but a two pin ungrounded plug in the second socket. And if moved may not be used at the new location. To cut off old plug and replace only takes a couple minutes and you confirm the ground wire it actually there; and the quality of the other wires (see other photos by Crossy of a computer cable he had with signal wires).

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