Impressions Of Thai Railways

[thailandlover]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

[gotlost]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

Take the train take the bus take a car. If you are paranoid stay home.

[Spee]

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

I wouldn't really view the trains as a good way to see the country, unless stops are planned along the way. If one is looking for a cultural experience, to experience how many Thai people travel, and have some interaction with them, then the trains are certainly one way to do that.

My experience is on the Northern Line between Hua Lamphong/Don Mueang and Phichit. The train rarely runs on time. A few minutes I can live with. A few hours I can't. Both should be expected in itinerary planning. I can't speak for other routes because I don't have experience with them.

For example, if one was planning to take the train from Bkk to Chiang Mai, and take overnighters in areas like Ayutthaya, Lop Buri, Phitsanulok, Sukothai, it could be a really cool experience and vacation.

As long as expectations aren't set too high for cleanliness, comfort and timeliness, I think conditions are tolerable. It's a cost effective way to travel but it ain't Amtrak, the ICE, the TGV or the Shinkansen.

[hansnl]

Thai Railways.

Are they safe?

Yes, safer as driving on the roads of Thailand, be it car or bus.

Accidents can happen, but generally, bus and car accidents have a much bigger fatality per number of passengers as trains, inherent to the construction strength of railway coaches.

Are they cheap, giving value for money?

Yes, generally the going prices are on par with bus fares.

Are they clean?

Mmmmm, guess about the same as most of the buses.

Comfort?

I prefer any train seat above most seats in buses, wider, longer.

In time?

That is a point, however, being a regular traveller between Bangkok and Khon Kaen, by bus or train, I can only say that last 3 times the train arrived within 10 minutes of advertised arrival time.

That said, one time I enjoyed a 6-hour delay.

On the bus side, a lot depends on traffic conditions, one day resulting in a 4-hour delay, sometimes half hour, sometime early, sometimes in time.

For me, I will choose the mode of transport that comes in most handy for the goal I have.

I will close with the fact that sometimes on a bus, I get a bit nervous about the way the drives seems to have to drive.

As an ex-Dutch Railwayman, I know the meaning of sounds and movements of trains, they tell a lot about the state of the rails and the state of the carriage.

A lot of lines are very well laid and mantained, several lines are less so.

However, being a 100 cm gauge, the stability is less as 143,5 cm gauge.

But so is the speed.

To set the Thai railways against HST-lines (High Speed Train) is very unfair, because the latter are mostly very new, specially built for high speeds.

It would be much fairer to set the primary and secondary lines run by conventional railways.

And then the whole picture changes a lot.

[sbk]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

Take the train take the bus take a car. If you are paranoid stay home.

useful sort of response

Funny, I didn't get the impression the OP was paranoid, just asking for other opinions on how overseas tourists might view it.

So, to answer the OP, my sister and her young son loved the trains, of course he was 5 so thought it was awesome She was not so thrilled with the squat toilet.

I think, if they want a nice view of the countryside, while travelling to a destination, then the trains are pretty good. We took my parents by day train up to CM and they really enjoyed seeing the scenery the train travelled through. They didn't really have enough time to stop all along the way, not many people do really. But, it gave them an idea, at least, of what the countryside north of Bangkok looked like.

The trains out of the South are still on strike, I do wonder how long it will be before their Northern brethren decide to join in if there appears to be no settlement forthcoming.

[siamkiwi]

I voted maybe.

First time I used it, about eight years ago I thought it was great. I travelled from Bangkok to Chiangmai. It is a cultural experience if you've never been to a developing country before. But as the years have gone by the novelty has worn off. First class is a joke, some times second class air smells like the toilet, who knows where they put the inlet duct. Personally I prefer to fly if there's an airport at my destination. Unless I'm paying for everyone, then you get used to the toilet smell after a while.

We had a bad experience earlier this year. We were in the dining car with the window open when someone threw a bottle at the train. We didn't see it coming, just a hel_l of a bang and then one of our group's face was covered in blood. We had to get of at the next stop and go to the hospital.

Don't let this put you off the trains. This is the only really bad experience I've had and it's a great way to travell long distances on the cheep, in realative comfort. I will however, never sit next to an open window again.

Edited October 19, 2009 by siamkiwi

[geriatrickid]

This thread is interesting because I have been trying to talk my friend into taking a trip with me from Surat Thani up to Bangkok. He thinks I am a few cards short of a full deck because I said hey it looks like fun if we get a compartment we can sleep and wake up refreshed and be in BKK in the morning. His view is and I quote, just because it says 1st class doesn't mean it is and he doesn't think it's a good idea to be trapped in a small compartment with me as I will complain about the conditions. His term is the "Farang Syndrome." I think trains are fun and great for a bit of adventure. I don't care about a squat toilet. I'm a guy and stand to pee and can go a day without pooping so pffft. Cue the look of let's be patient with the odd farang.

Anyone have any experience on the southern route? Am I really being be delusional? I look at it this way; 90 minutes to transit to the airport in Phuket and board the plane, 1 hour flight plus the usual TG 30minute to 1 hour delay + 1 hour baggage collection and commute to hotel in Bangkok. Basically a minimum 4 hour trip by plane plus the hassles and rush, whereas the train let's me get on in Surat Thani in the evening, and have a snooze and then wake up ready to go.

[metisdead]

This thread is interesting because I have been trying to talk my friend into taking a trip with me from Surat Thani up to Bangkok. He thinks I am a few cards short of a full deck because I said hey it looks like fun if we get a compartment we can sleep and wake up refreshed and be in BKK in the morning. His view is and I quote, just because it says 1st class doesn't mean it is and he doesn't think it's a good idea to be trapped in a small compartment with me as I will complain about the conditions. His term is the "Farang Syndrome." I think trains are fun and great for a bit of adventure. I don't care about a squat toilet. I'm a guy and stand to pee and can go a day without pooping so pffft. Cue the look of let's be patient with the odd farang.

Anyone have any experience on the southern route? Am I really being be delusional? I look at it this way; 90 minutes to transit to the airport in Phuket and board the plane, 1 hour flight plus the usual TG 30minute to 1 hour delay + 1 hour baggage collection and commute to hotel in Bangkok. Basically a minimum 4 hour trip by plane plus the hassles and rush, whereas the train let's me get on in Surat Thani in the evening, and have a snooze and then wake up ready to go.

Last time I did BKK-Surat Thani was 1991 on our way to Samui, we had the second class sleeper. It was ok by my books! (Back then anyway).

[Xangsamhua]

Rail travel is always a good option if it's of at least passable quality. Good fast trains with comfortable seats and good F&B service are a real pleasure. I used to do the overnight trip between Bangkok and Nong Khai often in the early 70s and it was very enjoyable. However, I haven't done it since the mid-70s and, putting various family members on the train in recent years, I've seen how shabby the carriages and sleeping berths are now. The only other rail travel I've done recently has been on the Sprinter between BKK and Surin and that was pretty rough. I think the rolling stock is the same as it was 40 years ago. It's sad that the Thai trains have been allowed to deteriorate.

Sorry, just read the OP's request again and realize my comments above don't help. I'd prefer to travel by car within Thailand, but if that's not feasible I'd still go by train rather than bus or plane, even if the trains are shabby and have squat dunnies.

Edited October 19, 2009 by Xangsamhua

[metisdead]

Rail travel is always a good option if it's of at least passable quality. Good fast trains with comfortable seats and good F&B service are a real pleasure. I used to do the overnight trip between Bangkok and Nong Khai often in the early 70s and it was very enjoyable. However, I haven't done it since the mid-70s and, putting various family members on the train in recent years, I've seen how shabby the carriages and sleeping berths are now. The only other rail travel I've done recently has been on the Sprinter between BKK and Surin and that was pretty rough. I think the rolling stock is the same as it was 40 years ago. It's sad that the Thai trains have been allowed to deteriorate.

By the Sprinter, do you mean that express train that is 2 cars and air conditioned? If so we took the "mid-day" express from Laksi to Korat beginning of July. The airplane style fold down tables, several were in need of repair. Some would not lock in the fold up position and thus the table rested in your lap for the duration of the trip. If they don't wish to fix the folding tables, why don't they just remove the things?

Other than that, not too terrible.

[paulvingt]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

The train is only for very,very poor people in Thailand. If you're very, very poor then you can take the train.

The trains in Thailand aren't like the trains in Europe. It's not luxurious and you can't buy nice cappucino or lattes.

You should fly - business class. Must more convenient. Unlike in Europe, Thai planes and the service are MUCH better. At least we get REAL business class seats and something nice to eat. European planes within the EU are horrible!

Hope this helps!

[ricklev]

Those trays on the backs of the seats on the Sprinter are bizarre, I agree. Most of them are broken, many don't stay in the upright position and others are badly tacked up with bits of string and trash etc.

Strange decision not to make any effort at all to fix them!

[13morris]

i try the night trip, from chiang mai to bkk, very crazy experience ! third classes, with many many bugs d:

impossible slipping!

amazing thai

[sbk]

This thread is interesting because I have been trying to talk my friend into taking a trip with me from Surat Thani up to Bangkok. He thinks I am a few cards short of a full deck because I said hey it looks like fun if we get a compartment we can sleep and wake up refreshed and be in BKK in the morning. His view is and I quote, just because it says 1st class doesn't mean it is and he doesn't think it's a good idea to be trapped in a small compartment with me as I will complain about the conditions. His term is the "Farang Syndrome." I think trains are fun and great for a bit of adventure. I don't care about a squat toilet. I'm a guy and stand to pee and can go a day without pooping so pffft. Cue the look of let's be patient with the odd farang.

Anyone have any experience on the southern route? Am I really being be delusional? I look at it this way; 90 minutes to transit to the airport in Phuket and board the plane, 1 hour flight plus the usual TG 30minute to 1 hour delay + 1 hour baggage collection and commute to hotel in Bangkok. Basically a minimum 4 hour trip by plane plus the hassles and rush, whereas the train let's me get on in Surat Thani in the evening, and have a snooze and then wake up ready to go.

The train can be fun for a first timer, I think. Like I said, my family enjoyed it. They aren't the greatest but they aren't the worst either.

[rockyysdt]

The only other rail travel I've done recently has been on the Sprinter between BKK and Surin and that was pretty rough. I think the rolling stock is the same as it was 40 years ago. It's sad that the Thai trains have been allowed to deteriorate.

I'd still go by train rather than bus or plane, even if the trains are shabby and have squat dunnies.

I'll be traveling from Bangkok to Surat on my next trip on the overnight train.

Personally I don't mind squat toilets so that won't be an issue.

I'm thinking of booking a first class sleeper.

Do they have showers on board?

How safe is ones baggage if you need to do a trip to the toilet or visit the dining car (if they have one)?

[Xangsamhua]

The only other rail travel I've done recently has been on the Sprinter between BKK and Surin and that was pretty rough. I think the rolling stock is the same as it was 40 years ago. It's sad that the Thai trains have been allowed to deteriorate.

I'd still go by train rather than bus or plane, even if the trains are shabby and have squat dunnies.

I'll be traveling from Bangkok to Surat on my next trip on the overnight train.

Personally I don't mind squat toilets so that won't be an issue.

I'm thinking of booking a first class sleeper.

Do they have showers on board?

How safe is ones baggage if you need to do a trip to the toilet or visit the dining car (if they have one)?

Surat(thani) or Surin, Rocky? My post referred to the latter and it was the daytime train.

[rockyysdt]

Surat(thani) or Surin, Rocky? My post referred to the latter and it was the daytime train.

I'm not very good with my Thai towns.

Surat Thani.

Will be headed for Wat Suan Mokkh.

Edited October 21, 2009 by rockyysdt

[mca]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

The train is only for very,very poor people in Thailand. If you're very, very poor then you can take the train.

The trains in Thailand aren't like the trains in Europe. It's not luxurious and you can't buy nice cappucino or lattes.

You should fly - business class. Must more convenient. Unlike in Europe, Thai planes and the service are MUCH better. At least we get REAL business class seats and something nice to eat. European planes within the EU are horrible!

Hope this helps!

Well they'll certainly see the countryside as they travel if they fly. Perhaps not in as much detail as they'd hoped though.

[rockyysdt]

I think this site should be of interest to prospective Thai train travelers.

http://www.seat61.com/Thailand.htm#How%20to%20book

[BusyB]

I have family coming over and they would like to see the countryside as they travel. I think the trains are the best option for this, but the recent strikes, the train accident and the general decprepitude of the trains make me a little hesitant to recommend this method of travel for anyone.

What are your impressions of the state of the rail system in Thailand? Would you recommend it to people as a good way to see the country or avoid it at all costs?

OK, this is a travel forum so I’ll make this reply a bit of a travelogue. Hope you enjoy it.

Trains are a GREAT way of getting around LOS as far as I’m concerned (OK, if the drivers don’t turf you out as a strike measure – but that is a new and exceptional frill to the experience I think). My first SEA trip was exactly 3 months long from Nov 2003 – Feb 2004 and took in a lot of Thailand, some of Cambodia and a bit of Laos, mostly by train. 

The first train ride came right after I first landed at Don Muang in November 2003. I didn’t want to start Thailand in BKK. I live in a big city anyway and I wanted to explore the country and people and try to get a little of the flavor of the normal country before I immersed myself in the City of Angels. So I followed the hint in Lonely Planet and went straight over the tracks to pick up a train to Ayuthaya. Cost about 20€urocents or so for a 3rd class wooden bench on wheels with open windows, and felt great! People were really helpful and friendly. Took about an hour I think. 

 After 3 days in Ayuthaya (including a 3rd class day-trip to Lop Buri) I moved on to Chiang Mai. For that I took the 2nd class diesel Sprinter. Took a day train because I wanted to see as much of the countryside as possible. The aircon carriages were laid out much like a plane. Not a bad ride, but as the scenery started to get really interesting (towards the north), trees and bushes began to cluster around the line, and a lot of the view across the valleys was lost. The last part of the trip I seem to recall was in hilly and winding countryside and finished in the dark. It took most of the day. Bit boring. Better than a 3rd class in terms of speed, but 3rd class is a far better atmosphere.

After 3 weeks in CM, including a great trek out in the hills (with Eagle House Trekking – recommended + fabulous!) I took the 1st class sleeper back to BKK, which I had to myself that time. OK, you can’t and shouldn’t compare this to Europe’s ICE/TGV 1st class or even the mail van, but it’s still a comfortable ride. The huge couches double up as wide single bunks, which the guard makes up with clean sheets and pillowcases, and blankets. There’s a washbasin with running water for a morning catlick along with soap and towel, and a bottle of water for brushing teeth (I personally won’t use train tapwater for my teeth, although I do use municipal tap water for them). They also deliver coffee/tea (ignore the breakfast, really) in the morning and strip your bed again. Then you can sit and watch as the train spends the last hour transiting from the outskirts of Bangkok to Hualamphong in the early morning. A very interesting world that moves past your window there – giving much pause for thought. You also save a night in a guest house/hotel. Cost me around 2400B back then (winter trip, 2003/4), one-way.

1st Class sleeper is still my preferred way of getting around long distance to places like Nong Khai, Chiang Mai etc. Coming back from NK, I shared the compartment with an English guy who was quite a comedian – we had a howl all the way back to BKK, like kids chatting in a dorm. En route to Udon Thani another time, I was sharing with an abbot who was transporting computers for his temple. A long and interesting conversation ensued. 

I used a 3rd class train to get to Cambodia via Aranya Prathet. When I got on in BKK, it was packed out, standing room only. After thinking maybe taking a train had been a mistake, I decided to just accept things the way they were rather than grumbling inwardly. Gradually time began to unreel and by the half way point everything had thinned out so seats had become available for everyone. The windows were open and a lot of stubble was being burnt off so much smoke and ash swirled and wafted through the carriage from time to time. The third classers may trundle and shunt and resemble nothing in Europe I’m aware of, but they’re certainly very interesting. They’re where you meet the salt of the earth – the Thais are fascinated and happy to see farangs sharing the carriages with them, extremely helpful and polite and wanting to share things. And what a gas - I was “chatted up” by an extremely hungry young woman for over half an hour, so in my face that the other passengers were openly embarrassed for their countrywoman – I took HER e-mail, but never contacted her and she left the train in Tambon Somewhere. When I shrugged my shoulders and showed my palms as the traijn moved out again, everyone was rolling around. I have to say I was stunned at the waste disposal method though – straight out the window. Even now I find that hard to swallow. 

Other than that I use government busses. Most people on them will ignore you which is fine. They’re good, cheap, reliable, and if it doesn’t go into a ditch or get smashed head on by a truck, you’ve got a fair bit of protection around you.

 Unlike minibuses. For me they are an emergency measure only when I really have to. Death traps. Hate them. The drivers are all such utter nutters in my experience and I always feel my life is in real danger. I can’t even read because I feel driven to watch the road up front. That way I’ll at least know if I’m one second away from becoming a local newspaper’s latest front page gore, as opposed to simply being obliviously blanked out in mid-sentence. And believe me folks, I am not the nervous type – former soldier, I’ve held a pilot’s license, love gliding, dive regularly, I live and ride a bike in a busy city. It takes a fair bit to get me worried yet minibus drivers make me ill with apprehension. Despicable and criminally insane in my experience.

OP – on a short trip, travelling in trains is probably THE area your family will come closest to real Thai life and rubbing shoulders with people here. Sometimes there’s a lot to see, sometimes it’s boring plains with the odd karst formation. As I write I can still hear the bell clanging as the Nong Khai “Express” hauls through a level crossing, even though it’s been 18 months since I last heard one for real. That’s quite a souvenir!

I hope they try it and enjoy it.

[toptuan]

When I first came to SE Asia only 7 years ago, I rode on trains with seats which weren't fixed to the floor. Every time the train started, we held on to the wall for dear life so as not to bolt backwards onto our heads. When the train stopped, we had to brace our feet in front so the bench-type seats wouldn't pitch us into the hardwood seat in front.

Some cars had no seats at all, so we just sat on the floor. The main train route in the country was scheduled only 3 times a week, and often missed even that infrequent schedule. The first two cars were free of charge because those were the cars that blew up first when the train hit a land mine. That was Cambodia. Then I came to Thailand. In comparison, Train Heaven! It all depends on your expectations.

[superdome]

When I first came to SE Asia only 7 years ago, I rode on trains with seats which weren't fixed to the floor. Every time the train started, we held on to the wall for dear life so as not to bolt backwards onto our heads. When the train stopped, we had to brace our feet in front so the bench-type seats wouldn't pitch us into the hardwood seat in front.

Some cars had no seats at all, so we just sat on the floor. The main train route in the country was scheduled only 3 times a week, and often missed even that infrequent schedule. The first two cars were free of charge because those were the cars that blew up first when the train hit a land mine. That was Cambodia. Then I came to Thailand. In comparison, Train Heaven! It all depends on your expectations.

have done the Surat/Bkk/Surat train many many times in 1st class sleeper..never had a prob...i think its great...take a tip..always get the lower bunk and the chances are u will have the complete compartment to yourself..thais dont like the upper [dont like heights ha ha]...besides that the a/con will make u feel cold...all night

[BusyB]

I see that another paper which is not to be named has cast serious doubts on maintenance standards this Sunday. It won't stop me using them regularly again though, unless they have a spate of pile-ups. Unfortunately it'll be a few months before I get the chance again  .

I also forgot to mention that the personnel were always friendly and attentive as well. I  saw them being very helpful to those who needed a hand, families, older folk and so on, farang or Thai .

The train drivers also claim their recent strike concerned abysmal staffing levels and maintenance failures - be that as it may, they certainly need some remedial PR classes and lessons in how NOT to strike . 

[Donnyboy]

article just out recently about Thailands Railway

Thailand's Railways: Wrong Track

[rockyysdt]

have done the Surat/Bkk/Surat train many many times in 1st class sleeper..never had a prob...i think its great...take a tip..always get the lower bunk and the chances are u will have the complete compartment to yourself..thais dont like the upper [dont like heights ha ha]...besides that the a/con will make u feel cold...all night

Hi Super

I'll hopefully be using the Surat/Bkk/Surat train some time next year.

Do the cars have shower facilities?

Is there a dining car or food on board?

Someone complained earlier about the toilet facilities. Are they squat affairs with hand held water hose?

[binnsy]

The train service gets a NO vote from me i would much rather use Nakonchai Air coach service as it is Far more comfortable,Quicker,Cleaner and on time.

These views are based on my travels from Buriram to Bangkok.