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House Paint?


PaulDee

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Dulux at Homepro and most diy shops. Its more expensive than the others............for a reason.

Make sure when applying the water based you or your painters dont thin it down so its like dishwater, Thais like to do this. Use a primer first make sure all surfaces are clean jet wash walls etc if exterior use.

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Yep, Dulux if you can stretch to them. TOA are ok at the top-end of their products, such as the Supershield stuff and the Nano white, which are the self-cleaning type that doesn't blacken (if properly primed). If you have wooden window frames, though, stay away from TOA's Four Seasons gloss as you'll be painting over it a few months down the line... attracts dust like crazy.

I'd avoid buying from Home Pro as they're generally more expensive than Global House, Home Mart.

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Duluxe for sure. If they are similar product to Americans version it is a far superior paint. Tried Toa Berger & Jotun Joton oil base not bad. most Thai base paints just break down within a year. The Toa is falling off The Exterior & I will refinish & repaint with Duluxe as I always have had gret luck with this brand. Now if I can only find some tri- sodium phosphate (TSP) cleaner I can start painting. If not I will wait till June when I go to the U.S. & pick some up. If the surface is clean before priming & -painting it should stay on the surface.........Providing you are using Quality paint & not the Shlock brands they are pitching here. Duluxe is twice as expensive , but worth every satang not to have to re-do the painting every year!!!

Barry

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I'd agree with the Dulux & using the best primer... however give the cement time to fully cure first, or you'll get "bleeding" within a year on the new cement...

When mine was done, the older walls are fine, now, but the new ones are showing what I would guess calcium bleeding through... I think we waited about two weeks, obviously not long enough.... something to consider?

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... however give the cement time to fully cure first, or you'll get "bleeding" within a year on the new cement...

Can you please provide a figure in months because for concrete to fully cure it will take between 50 and 150 years? The reason for asking is that I am currently building a house so my interest is genuine.

My house will be primed and then painted with Jotun Majestic. Anyone having experience using that paint?

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... however give the cement time to fully cure first, or you'll get "bleeding" within a year on the new cement...

Can you please provide a figure in months because for concrete to fully cure it will take between 50 and 150 years? The reason for asking is that I am currently building a house so my interest is genuine.

My house will be primed and then painted with Jotun Majestic. Anyone having experience using that paint?

Jotun Majestic is good, but expensive. I d say Supercoat Nanotech is just as good, but doesnt carry a Norwegian brand name

Concrete must dry 28 days before priming to avoid pealoff and bleeding. 28 days is approx 90% dry.

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Can you please provide a figure in months because for concrete to fully cure it will take between 50 and 150 years?

It would have taken that long for the Hoover Dam to cure if they hadn't sectioned it off while pouring, but couple months tops for standard house construction type curing.

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Having read all the advice above I am just about ready to buy in the paint, I agree that Dulux would be the best ,another brand I have been offered is Captain Super Silicone with a ten year life, anyone have any experience with this brand which co-incidently is also made by ICI as is Dulux.

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Having read all the advice above I am just about ready to buy in the paint, I agree that Dulux would be the best ,another brand I have been offered is Captain Super Silicone with a ten year life, anyone have any experience with this brand which co-incidently is also made by ICI as is Dulux.

I am not sure of this being the same brand. Usually it is a knock off or a factory second if it isn't the name brand. 30 days for primer to set 28 close enough. a good quality primer & make sure to put even coats & paint the bottom & top good as well. The ole Thai trick is to thicker in the middle & a piss coat on the top & bottom to either save money or it is to strenuous to apply it properly for them. If you have a crew doing the job Spring for some trays. Most of the losers just dip the rollers in the bucket & waste 30% or more dripping the paint on the floor.

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Thanks for the tip on the paint trays will do that, I have done some more research on "Captain" paints, turns out it is a Thai paint manufacturer but they have the ICI logo on the cans! I guess they get the ingredients from ICI and make the paint themselves!

With no positive reports here on the quality of Captain I am looking now at Dulux only, I want a good job that will stand the weather here and not need redoing in two years time!

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Thanks for the tip on the paint trays will do that, I have done some more research on "Captain" paints, turns out it is a Thai paint manufacturer but they have the ICI logo on the cans! I guess they get the ingredients from ICI and make the paint themselves!

With no positive reports here on the quality of Captain I am looking now at Dulux only, I want a good job that will stand the weather here and not need redoing in two years time!

Delux Weathershield Hydrofresh, is what I used. The primer is very important and unfortunately is not as easy to put on as the paint. Now they do a primer which can be used on both new concrete and over old paint (previously you had to use a different primer for each). Applied correctly they say 10 years. the 'Hydrofresh' is supposed to wash itself when it rains..not convinced about that.

I actually re-did the white kerbs outside my house. The guy next door then repainted his..typical thai job. Mine still look immaculate 18 months on, his paint has pealed off!

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