Frangipani Tree

[xerostar]

We have a few frangipani trees that are about 3 Metres tall. They have not been pruned for a long time as far as I know.

The problem is most of the foliage is up high and most of the flowers can't be seen until they've fallen off.

So we have a view from our verandah of all the bare stems (not that pretty)

Has anyone got a few tips, e.g. when to prune them and if so, how much can we cut off without killing the plant.

I'd just like to make them bushy with more foliage and flowers down lower if possible.

Also how best to propagate the cuttings.

[sbk]

Not sure about the pruning bit, since the tree is already quite large. I've always pruned mine as they grew. Maybe someone else has experience pruning an already large tree. I mean, sure you can prune, but I am not sure how effective that will be in achieving a bushy appearance.

Propagating cuttings is very simple. Cut off a branch, strip off all the leaves (taking care not to get the sap in your eyes our mouth) and then let the branch dry out for a day or two. Stick in sandy soil (they don't like heavy clay) and do not overwater.

[xerostar]

Thanks for that SBK

We have heavy clay soil here and we water the garden daily,

so that explains why previous cuttings have not done well.

[drtreelove]

"The best time to prune is when your saw is sharp."

I always remember that statement from one of the first books I read on arboriculture, "Tree Care" by John Haller.

But with an objective of stimulating new growth, the best time is usually at the start of the growing season, early spring, hopefully with adequate soil moisture to support growth. That is also the best time to assure the timely development of "wound-wood", the closure of the wound with rolling callus tissue.

There are different ways to get light to the inner, lower branches and therefore encourage latent buds along the stems to pop out with new growth:

One way is the no-brainer that you usually see, drastic topping, cutting back to bare stubs, creating a large hat-rack. I don't advise this method, it's ugly and can have detrimental effects on the natural form, beauty and structural integrity of the plant.

Another way is to thin the upper canopy to allow sunlight to penetrate to the lower branches. You could reduce the height later when the new, lower growth is established.

The more artistic and professional alternative to topping is what is called "crown reduction pruning"; just words, but meant to indicate a more conscious approach of selective thinning and heading cuts, or "drop crotching" to achieve a reduced height and thinned upper canopy without leaving stubs.

The pruning rule of thumb is to not take more than 25% of the foliage in a one year period, or risk reducing photosynthetic food manufacturing capacity and radically disturbing the established balance of foliage to roots and stems.

Fragipani, (plumeria, raylavadee) is not a woody plant but more of a succulent, so not all the issues in the attached article apply, but it will give you an idea of some basics.

There have been numerous threads here and in the Plants, Pets and Vets forum on the popular and beautiful Plumeria genus. Was it here that Poppysdad from HuaHin asked a similar question? How are yours doing, and what was the result so far of the radical uprighting procedure?

htprune.pdf

Edited December 20, 2009 by drtreelove

[lioness]

When the trees are starved of light they will end up like yours, lots of bare brances and the flowers high up.

I prune any time of the year with no problems, you decide where you want the growth, each single branch cut will spout 3 branches from that point, so you have control over the shape you want to end up with.

Any prunings I plant, but firstly I scrape the bark to expose the green tissue underneath about 20cm, this is the bit to be planted. They tend to start roots a lot quicker if you do this. I don't let mine dry out, straight into natural soil, mines quite heavy, and water well. They absolutely flourish, very hardy and you don't have to be too fussy with them in this climate.

Just make sure you stake them well if the prunings are big, as wind wriggling the plant about will break off new roots.

[GungaDin]

Plumeria cuttings... how to..

[David006]

When the trees are starved of light they will end up like yours, lots of bare brances and the flowers high up.

I prune any time of the year with no problems, you decide where you want the growth, each single branch cut will spout 3 branches from that point, so you have control over the shape you want to end up with.

Any prunings I plant, but firstly I scrape the bark to expose the green tissue underneath about 20cm, this is the bit to be planted. They tend to start roots a lot quicker if you do this. I don't let mine dry out, straight into natural soil, mines quite heavy, and water well. They absolutely flourish, very hardy and you don't have to be too fussy with them in this climate.

Just make sure you stake them well if the prunings are big, as wind wriggling the plant about will break off new roots.

interesting stuff... we have several Frangipani which are now about 1.5m high from little 50cm fellas bought at the market 2yrs ago.

Recently moved two of 'em ( quite a root system!) in doing so ( as I am no brain/tree surgeon) I broke a few small branches. Without expectation I just stuck 'em in the dirt /clay beneath a young rubber tree and forgot 'em.. now after 3 months they have leafs. (the Frangipani bits that is)

They used to say in Cairns Queensland that if you leave your rake on the lawn for a day or two it'll take root... think that's pretty much the case in Thailand too, as long as there is a bit of water lol ......now if I can only get my lawn to grow !!!