Feeding Young Trees During Upcoming Dry Season

[jubby]

I have a few Hundred different species Young trees which I'm considering Feeding & watering now & during the upcoming dry season.

I haven't really fed them before and so the growth hasn't been stunning.

I'm just wondering what the best mix is for trees in general. NPK values etc.

I don't have any rubber but I suppose the rubber growers have the most experience with fertilizer, so I'd appreciate there input .

What should I ask for locally and is it cheaper to buy in Bulk from a large supplier ?

Thanks.

[jamescollister]

Hi jubby

I wouldn't get too carried away with different types of fertiliser, any is better than none. Head down to the local shop and see what they have that,s not too expensive and throw about a bag [ 50 kilos] around per rai. Once near the start of the dry and then again when the rains start. Things just grow in Thailand and if it is not a commercial crop then it would not make much of a difference. Jim

[jubby]

Thanks Jim,

I'll do just that

[xerostar]

Check for signs of termites too. They like young trees.

Look for the soil coloured tracks leading up the stem/trunk.

Break off any soil tracks or hose them off as I did.

I use a watering can and add about 10 ml of Chlorpyrifos liquid mixed with 10 Litres water.

Give each tree about 5 litres of the mix around the trunk.

You need to check them closely and regularly until they're well established.

I had a few young trees that appeared to be doing well, so I didn't inspect them for 4 or 5 months.

I had assumed that the trees had just lost their leaves as normal, but new shoots failed to appear.

Then I found the termites were back and had killed the trees.

From the distance I had not noticed the trunks were covered in termite soil tracks.

Some trees were not affected at all. Termites seem to favour the taste of some trees and avoid others.

[xen]

I would not be fertilizing if the trees are under stress or you cannot get the fertilizer watered in . Also the trees will require extra water if using a chemical fertilizer so i would be looking for either a slow release (chemical) fertilizer or some rotted manaures and mulch the trees afterwards.

Depending on yr choice of mulch , you must also be careful of nitrogeon drawdown which is when the mulch takes any available nitrogeon to break itself down , but it then returns the nitrgeon later to the soil.

Incidently what types of trees are they ?

[jubby]

Wow, what types of Trees. You name it, I've got it. I've put in anything I can find. The beautiful blossom/flowering type trees we see by the road side up here in Chiang Rai. also several fruit varieties and some Plantation Wood varieties. I've also got teak but will only do a few of them as a test. Far too many. I also let anything that springs up grow. I like trees THey don't back chat or not too much anyway

There are a few that have been in a few years now that are still alive but not flourishing, I'm going to have a last ditch atempt at getting them to grow before removing them. My Soil is Clay , It doesn't have a lot of organic matter, but I'm slowly taking care of that. It was used to grow corn constantly about 13 years ago before we got it. I was hopeing to get the soil condition better naturally but i think mother nature needs some asistance.

I'm onto the termite problem, or rather ants. And hopefully will have enough water.

[jubby]

Mulch. Given this a little thought. There's plenty of rice straw around at the moment. but don't want to add to the insect problem or cause a fire hazard if it drys out too quickly

[xen]

Mulch. Given this a little thought. There's plenty of rice straw around at the moment. but don't want to add to the insect problem or cause a fire hazard if it drys out too quickly

Mulch will conserve any moisture you give to the trees, will add organic matter to soils that will eventually help in your water holding capacity of your soils and when it does rain ,it will cushion your soil to an extent and prevent erosion of your topsoils.This is possibly why a lot of Thai soils appear to be down to a " B" horizon and there is so little topsoil/humus left in the soils because of the heavy leaching rain on unprotected topsoil causing erosion. If possible u can add the straw in small amounts and top up the mulch as needed or your time allows you so you minimise your insect and /or your fire -fuel build-up.

[jandtaa]

Hi Jubby

I believe that nitrogen drawdown is most commonly associated with woody mulches such as bark, wood chips and sawdust. It should not be such a problem with rice straw which breaks down much faster. One way to combat nitrogen drawdown is to add a layer of compost underneath your mulch. This is the method I am using on my young fruit trees at the moment. I've dug shallow trenches (if you wish to use chemical fertiliser place this in the trench) around the mounds that the trees are planted on (about 45 cm from the trunks on smaller saplings and 60 cm on the larger specimens, you should be guided by the dripline of individual trees) and then applied a good 4" of compost over the mound and the base of the trench (ensuring the compost is kept away from the trunk to prevent fungal infection) and then covered the compost with a good layer of rice straw. The trees have been in a couple of months now and I'm down to deep watering once a week, the trench helps direct the water towards the roots and the compost provides nutrients whilst the mulch helps regulate the temperature in the root zone and conserves moisture. Before the onset of the rainy season I intend to backfill the trench with homemade organic fertiliser and the soil excavated from the trench, add another layer of compost and mulch with pigeon pea prunings, bamboo leaf and a capping of rice straw to prevent erosion and direct rainfall away from the trees.

With trees in there hundreds this may be a little labour intensive but it will keep you out of mischief  !! Maybe you could try it on some of your favourites. On a larger scale how about trying a living mulch, something like pinto peanut or another ground covering nitrogen fixing plant.

I know you had some nasty fires last dry season and using large amounts of rice straw concerns me as well, I think I may set up some sprinklers and just keep it damped down when the idiot neighbours start burning on windy days as they did last year. I may also get a tractor with a blade to clear a fire break around my plot as I also have my euca fence to consider.

Cheers for now J

   

[jubby]

Thanks Jantaa.

I'm already in the Sh*t. Sorry , Mischief upto my Kneck And don't have a lot of free time.

I'm going to try a few things on a select few trees to see if it helps and then put some real effort in next year.

The Firebreaks always a good Idea. I do most of mine with a tractor and blade followed by my helper where the tractor can't go.

There's only one place where the neighbours land is overgrown this year ( 3 - 4 metres high ) So I'm doing a six metre firebreak there.

I don't think you have much to worry about, your neigbours land looks quite tidy compared to mine and your not far away if fire breaks out.

First thing is to get down to chiang Rai for some Borax and wage war on my Ants.

[kloghead]

Water crystals (polymers) will help with keeping the soil moist between waterings. Just make sure you apply them after they've expanded.

Some crystals will expand so much they can displace small plants that haven't developed a good root system.

[jandtaa]

Yeah these polymers are incredible in the amount of water they can absorb and subsequently conserve ( I use them in my hanging baskets in the UK).

Another strategy would be to apply a handful of gypsum ( acts as a "clay breaker" ) around each tree as it will help water penetration of the soil .

J 

[jubby]

Gypsum !? Tell me more. I could do with a clay breaker of some sort. Its not likely to harm the trees is it ?

Is it easily obtainable here ? Bags available from Buliders merchants I suppose

[BAYBOY]

Jubby,

One company manufacturing gypsum here in Thailand is D.K.T. Co.Ltd.

Check their web site...www.dktgypsum.com.

Several types available and it is good for the soil if you want to retain moisture. Usally available at stores that sell fertilisers, sprays etc.

Cheers.

BAYBOY.

[jandtaa]

Hi Jubby

No the Gypsum will not harm the trees, in fact it is often used as a fertiliser providing readily soluble calcium and sulphur, both important in plant growth. Because neither calcium or sodium are  transported to the growing tips of plants I use little and often through the growing season.I have also used it as a clay-breaker, just broadcast on the soil surface and watered in and it really does help to prevent the crust that forms at the surface of my soil when it dries out.

Around here I've never found it in an ag store but then again I can't find bonemeal or dried blood etc.. despite extensive looking. Readily available as gypsum plaster at builders merchants.

Cheers for now J