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Mobil 1 Oil


wildoates

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I have been unable to find 20/50 motorcycle oil and am told my my dealer that is is not available, but this may be the usual mai mee story.

The old Mobil 1 Delvac, or now called turbo diesel pickup oil in Thailand, is the best choice for both bikes and cars as it has the highest content of zine and phosphorus. These additives are required for flat tappet vehicles like the old beetle and a lot of classc cars. 15/40 only

To keep my life simple I run it in everything I own.

See the Mobile 1 spec sheet here:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf

Here is an interesting article on why diesel oil:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

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The old Mobil 1 Delvac, or now called turbo diesel pickup oil in Thailand, is the best choice for both bikes and cars as it has the highest content of zine and phosphorus. These additives are required for flat tappet vehicles like the old beetle and a lot of classc cars. 15/40 only

To keep my life simple I run it in everything I own.

Here is an interesting article on why diesel oil:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Yikes, diesel oil in a motorcycle engine!? :)

Ok, I suppose in a low compression Harley tractor :D you might be ok, but in a high compression, high revving sport bike engine I think you'd be asking for a lot of trouble using oil designed for cool running low compression diesel engines.... Just my opinion and I've been wrong before, but logic says a high compression engine running at very high RPMs and high operating temperature would require different oil than a low compression low rev cool running diesel engine...

Again, in a hog you might not have any problems, but I'd never try diesel oil in a sport bike engine.

Ride On!

Tony

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I have been unable to find 20/50 motorcycle oil and am told my my dealer that is is not available, but this may be the usual mai mee story.

The old Mobil 1 Delvac, or now called turbo diesel pickup oil in Thailand, is the best choice for both bikes and cars as it has the highest content of zine and phosphorus. These additives are required for flat tappet vehicles like the old beetle and a lot of classc cars. 15/40 only

To keep my life simple I run it in everything I own.

See the Mobile 1 spec sheet here:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf

Here is an interesting article on why diesel oil:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

+1.

See attached thread discussing the topic of oils in immense detail. I have posted this link here somewhere before I believe.

http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/tech/1...tml#post2171360

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+1 again. It depends on the bike but if you're talking about a sportbike you better put in a synthetic motocycle specifc oil. Lesser oils may not flow fast enough, foam up, or just fall apart on you. Modern cars mostly redline under 9000 rpm, sportbikes rev up to 17500 rpm (2006 R6). Obviously biike engines endure far greater speed and stress loads on reciprocating parts than most roadcars and bike oils take this into account.

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+1 again. It depends on the bike but if you're talking about a sportbike you better put in a synthetic motocycle specifc oil. Lesser oils may not flow fast enough, foam up, or just fall apart on you. Modern cars mostly redline under 9000 rpm, sportbikes rev up to 17500 rpm (2006 R6). Obviously biike engines endure far greater speed and stress loads on reciprocating parts than most roadcars and bike oils take this into account.

I do not think it is a question of RPM, after all F-1 cars use Mobil 1 and turn higher RPM's than you bike will ever see.

I understand that bike oil is the same base stock as car oil, without friction modifiers for wet clutch application. Having said that I have not had a problem using M-1 Delvac in wet clutch applications for over 10 years, and Harley uses the same synthetic oil in both engine and primary.

Read the Calsci article thoroughly and think about what he says.

but logic says a high compression engine running at very high RPMs and high operating temperature would require different oil than a low compression low rev cool running diesel engine...

Logic tells me that a diesel has far higher compression than your bike, and given that both are water cooled the temperature will be in a similar range. BTW my Harley tractor has 10.5:1 compression.

Read the Calsci article thoroughly and think about what he says.

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valvoline synthetic is just as good and ALOT cheaper.

Does not have the ZDDP and phosphorus content of M-1 Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil. These are key wear additives, expensive, and not found in the majority of oils.

While not applicable to modern bikes, an absolute must have additives for flat tappet cams found in my Beetle and Royal Enfield

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I read most of the Calsci article but it makes me think even more that you should use a recommended bike oil (at least for high revvers).

All the various grades, additives, and weights are there specifically to tackle different engine applications just like your Beetle needs a special additive.

Mobil 1 is a brand, they make many different oils for this reason.

There's no freaking way an F1 team is putting in any random oil into an F1 engine.

Ummm, how can you not think RPMs are important?

That is why there's oil in the first place?

It's the friction between metal to metal parts that an oil is meant to reduce and the more RPMs mean more friction.

Oils are close to non-compressible which is why hydraulic systems work.

It's the piston rings (and valves) that create compression and fight blowby, not the oil.

Compression has no affect on how fast a crank, cam, or clutch spins but the oil still has to lube these areas.

Now when you think how different a diesel engine is from a sportbike engine with a wet clutch, there are so many more applications the oil has to handle.

I'm not an oils engineer either so you should take my opinions with a grain of salt.

A low RPM bike like a Harley can getaway with a low RPM auto oil as you've done for 10 years, but when you get into high RPM bikes you're significantly increasing your stresses.

An air cooled Harley engine was designed decades ago so it only needs decades old oil technology, but a modern engine needs modern oil.

It's deductive reasoning that the oil between a cam and the valves is suffering more stress at 17500 RPM than at 9000.

I've read on other forums of clutches slipping when people experiment with non recommended oils and that alone should make you think twice about what you put into your bikes.

Edited by ttakata
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Turbos are made to very fine tolerances and turn at very high RPM.

How fast do you think that pickup turbo is spinning, and continues to spin after the engine is shut off? The answer is way faster than any bike made, so I suspect that that Delvac is specifically engineered for lubricating very close tolerance parts at very high RPM - hence more of the expensive additives than found in normal car oil

The original question was where to buy M-1 bike oil. To my knowledge it is not available, hence the second best M-1 alternative available in Thailand IE Delvac or now called "Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil"

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Turbos are made to very fine tolerances and turn at very high RPM.

How fast do you think that pickup turbo is spinning, and continues to spin after the engine is shut off? The answer is way faster than any bike made, so I suspect that that Delvac is specifically engineered for lubricating very close tolerance parts at very high RPM - hence more of the expensive additives than found in normal car oil

The original question was where to buy M-1 bike oil. To my knowledge it is not available, hence the second best M-1 alternative available in Thailand IE Delvac or now called "Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil"

dam_n good point that about the 'turbo'. also most diesel engines are high compression just by their nature. Also if ya want bike specific synth oil get Motul. at mega bucks more money.

Edited by thaicbr
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I have heard the "too thin' arguement before and do not buy it. This is old school thought from the days when the only way to deal with heat was to use a thick single weight oil.

BTW how do you know it is too thin and how thin should it be under high ambient conditions? Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures

If high temperatures are your concern forget dyno oil and use a Group V Polyester based oil. Read the CalSci article I posted earlier to get a grasp on this concept and in particular this chart showing dyno and synth oil viscosity related to temperature.

As you can see in the table presented,

"synthetics offer real advantages when your engine is very cold and when your engine is very hot. The viscosity numbers shown above are at 212°F. At 32°F the PAOs and Diesters have about one third the viscosity of the mineral oils, meaning they pump through your engine three times better. Since about 75% of all the wear on your engine happens in the first five minutes after you start it up, synthetics offer an advantage in significantly reducing engine wear."

Dinosaur oil breaks down at 250 F and does not recover - IE once heated it is permanently degraded. Your air cooled engine can and will hit 250 oil temperature even with an oil cooler in traffic, or long hard pulls. Screaming Eagle engines come with synthetic as a factory fill and it can get bloody hot in parts of the US.

HD or M-1?

From CalSc:

I'm told that the standard Harley oils are made by Sunoco, and the Syn-3 is made by Castrol. The Syn-3 Harley synthetic is primarily a Group III oil, and contains very little PAO or Diester stock. I don't consider the Syn-3 Harley oil either a particularly excellent oil, nor a competitively priced oil.
From what I have read in outher technical articles I agree with this analysis.

HD is far too closed mouthed on exactly what additives are in their oil. When HD starts making oil I will buy it but for now limit my purchases to their bikes, and buy quality oil from the specalists.

BTW read all about oil filters and you will never use a HD filter again. I import Purolator Pure 1 for my bikes.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consu...html#OilFilters

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Why too thin ? Lifter noise at idle, along with no oil pressure at idle after a hard run on the highway and then pulling over for fuel stop or WHY. With 60W oil temp is between 200 and 220 F

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Why too thin ? Lifter noise at idle, along with no oil pressure at idle after a hard run on the highway and then pulling over for fuel stop or WHY. With 60W oil temp is between 200 and 220 F

HD have about 7 psi at idle presuming RPM per the factory spec. If yours is idling slower for the cool potato, potato sound your oil pressure will be lower - I have seen them hit zero. Remember that when hot your straight 60 will have lower viscosity than a Group V 20/50.

Lets not forget that even at our high ambient temperatures, straight 60 is like molasses on start up. Engine wear is primarily during start up and you are causing more damage in your attempt to address the problem of low oil pressure. I would suggest that your oil pressure issue has other factors.

Once again:

Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures

If high temperatures are your concern forget dyno oil and use a Group V Polyester based oil. Read the CalSci article I posted earlier to get a grasp on this concept and in particular the chart showing dyno and synth oil viscosity related to temperature.

The science would indicate otherwise, but it is your bike and run what you want.

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I appreciate the debate on motor oil but no one is stating where they are buying their oil except for the imported Purolator Pure

There are more than one Mobile-1 Dealers here in CM, and I go the one just off Narawath bridge.

If on the road, M-1 is available at Esso stations - just try finding HD 60, Moutl, (insert your favourite esoteric brand here) on the road.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I appreciate the debate on motor oil but no one is stating where they are buying their oil except for the imported Purolator Pure

I also looked around all over the place for Mobil 1 Motorcycle specific oil and couldn't find it.

I use Delvac or Turbo Deisel, for all the reasons mentioned by HogHead - and in addition to that, I know it is a true synthetic - whereas many motorcycle specific oils which claim to be, are in fact not. Shell included.

The only MC specific true synth oil I could find was Motul - and it was not available in the weight I wanted (40) - and even the Motul on pack mumbo jumbo is confusing and misleading. The true synth from Motul is around 600 baht a litre. Mobil 1 TD is about 400. There is another one from Motul which is around 300 baht - which claims to be synthetic, but when you sift through all the jargon, you'll eventually reaslise it's not.

If you find M1 MX4T anywhere, please do let us all know...:)

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  • 2 months later...

I have a DTracker and I'd like to upgrade at the next oil change but Kawasaki BKK only sells semi/blended oil.

I don't have a car.

Do those B-Quik service stations sell any?

I figure Chinatown must have it somewhere but that place is a maze and zoo mixed into one.

So does anyone know specifically where I can get this Delvac or any other 100% synthetic oil in BKK?

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I have a DTracker and I'd like to upgrade at the next oil change but Kawasaki BKK only sells semi/blended oil.

I don't have a car.

Do those B-Quik service stations sell any?

I figure Chinatown must have it somewhere but that place is a maze and zoo mixed into one.

So does anyone know specifically where I can get this Delvac or any other 100% synthetic oil in BKK?

Several of the bike shops there sell the Motul oil, and would think that with all the auto places, you should be able to find Delvac easy enough. Red Baron has the motul....

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Ttakata,

Depending on where you are in BKK. The store at the entrance to the Tiger factory in Samut Prakan has Motul. If you want to try the store on the corner of Sukhumvit 56 they may have Delvac but i haven't been there looking for it.

Edited by VocalNeal
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I never could find Mobil One motorcycle oil here, so I've run Mobil One 5w-50 car oil in my CBR-150 since it was new. Still runs great at 71000 KM and it's still on the original clutch. I've read all the articles claiming the friction modifiers in car oil might ruin my clutch, then decided to just take the chance, clutches are not that expensive anyway. They have not harmed the wet clutch at all, at least so far, and I'm would think the engine is probably better off having the friction modifiers (whatever they are).

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for 300 baht/liter Motul 10W-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil is available all over Chiang Mai.

Car oil is no good in motorcycles. Period. You can look on the Motul web page (or elsewhere) and see why.

I prefer Silkolene but can't find it. Both are great oils, the same oil used in MotoGP machines.

Shell is good too, but their full synthetic can't be found.

If someone can find a full synthetic 2 stroke injector (autolube) oil in Chiang Mai please tell me where.

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