2 New Easy 2 Stroke Questions.

[thaicbr]

Spud and guys. There are a few yamaha Tzr250's about they should float your boat o to speak.

[VocalNeal]

Spud and guys. There are a few yamaha Tzr250's about they should float your boat o to speak.

CBR,

There might even be some NSR's here.

[KRS1]

Hi guys, thanks for all the input, and I don't feel that I am not taking advice. Some comments I am just unsure of because my experience and observations while riding the bike contradict it. (mostly being the idea that im flooding the combustion chambre with too much 2T) I am taking it in, and I suppose the next thing I will is check the autolube system for a leak. I do remember when the guy started it up before I bought it it smoked like a mofo so maybe it is this broken seal that has been mentioned. And yes apparetnyl the previous owner was an older guy owned the bike for 15 years and always drove slow, and I swear there was like a 1ft by 1ft pile of shit that came out of the exhaust before I just decided to change it.

After the replies I'm fairly certain that the problem before must have been it was running lean. So for now, me adding 2T is nessesary before I get this figured out, and I don't believe I am adding too much or going to break the engine as I'm adding measured amounts and observing the smoke all the time. Also about the piston, the one that got wrecked was a 2 ring and the one it was replaced with was a 2 ring. I will try and research this model to see if it is a 3ring or 2 ring but I apparently the engine had never been opened before me and the previous owner never had a reason to open it the way he drove, so it was probably completely stock when I got it. It looks stock but looks liek brand new when you wash it.

So, check the autolube system for leaks, check the piston type at stock, and check for a thermostat. Anyone know where the thermostat might be located?

Its the autolube seal, as well as being under jetted to compensate for the smoke, when one of the previous mechanics couldn't figure out why it would smoke so bad after not being ridden for a few days.

First they burned out the residue in the pipe hoping that would solve the problem, nope didn't work ...then they tried to lower the amount of autolube by setting it at the lowest bar, when that didn't work they put in a smaller autolube jet.... When that still didn't work they rejetted the carburetor.

Owner gives up and sells the bike to you, because the mechanic tells him he has to replace the cylinder which will cost him 7000 baht.

Been there, done that on a Kawa ZX 150 - trust me, go to the Kawa dealer ONLY and get the stock jets for both the carb and autolube as well as the autolube seal, and check the piston type.

PS.. the temperature sensor is either a plug looking thing with 2 wires either in the radiator or the cylinder head. A KRR has it in the radiaor, an NSR and TZM have it in the cylinder head.

[lennya12threh]

To the post about the spark plug, that is what the old one looked liek before I changed it. I will do the spark plug check when I have some time, maybe on my next trip.

I also already adjusted the oil pump as well today. Before it was already quite far out, but I put it out further to test whenever this tank of mixed fuel runs out. I am using Shell's 2T in the black can, was also reccomended by VocalNiel after I had already purchased it.

Basically, today, I took of the plates infront of the 2T pump and it looked ok, but all dirty probably because of the chain lube splashing around when I drive. The valve that opens with the throttle worked fine and everything appeared to fit fairly well and soundly. I took off the line going from the 2T tank to the pump and it was definately working as it poured out everywhere. So I put it back on. Then I disconected the line that goes from the pump to "just below the carb" from the pump side and turned on the eninge and reved it a bit (with 2T in the tank too ) and 2T did slowly start coming out to where the line would be conected. Very slowly like a small bubble slowly approaching from inside, but it did work and I'm assuming it's not supposed to come seeping out. So then after I took off this tube completely (the pump to just below carb one) and inspected it. I tried blowing through it and it was like it completely plugged up. Trying to breath through it was like impossible and got like next to no air, so I thought it was plugged. So then I took it the mechanic down the street and showed him it and he put the air pump to it a blew through a bit, and air was able to get through. I still thought it was plugged but he disagreed and said that is normal that you can't even breath air through it but the force of an air pump can. I was thinking if I cant even get any air through it, how can the force of a litre of 2T get through it? What do you think?

Also there was one other line coming from the pump going into what looks liek it would be the transmission or something. What is the function of this line? It is the one farthest to the left or front of the pump.

I'm still not sure what is meant by the jets. When I took it all apart, all I saw was the 2T tank, going to the pump with a tube, and another tube going to just below the carb which I also took off, and then one more tube going from the pump to I dunno where, and I'm not sure the function of the last tube.

Edited July 9, 2010 by lennya12threh

[lennya12threh]

And yea, all the mechanics seem to think its normal that it smokes quite well for 5 minutes and then doesn't smoke at all later... I don't understand the logic in this as it should smoke consistantly. The one I went to today just basically thought I was an idiot and disregarded all my concerns, saying I shouldn't have even checked out the pump in the first place. He just said if you look at the exhaust tip for wetness and dryness it is enough...

[BigBikeBKK]

I'm still not sure what is meant by the jets. When I took it all apart, all I saw was the 2T tank, going to the pump with a tube, and another tube going to just below the carb which I also took off, and then one more tube going from the pump to I dunno where, and I'm not sure the function of the last tube.

Some recommended reading for you-

[lennya12threh]

You really like picking on me don't you.

[JUDAS]

Stick with it lenny. You are getting some good advice here along with the odd p_iss take, to be expected. At least you are asking questions and gaining a lot of experience as you go

[noahvail]

You really like picking on me don't you.

I can't speak *for* Tony, but I'll speak *about* him. You'd be hard pressed to find a more knowledgeable person on bikes on these forums.

IMO, he's not picking on you - he's showing you a way to pick up some valuable knowledge about your bike, your riding style, and so on. The "For Dummies" franchise of books covers anything from computers to software to bikes to... just about everything.

I think he just might be telling you that a bit more research on your part would do you a world of good - more than asking people to diagnose from a description of a complaint.

Lighten up. Lots of good advice has been given to you...take it all in, do some of your own research, and just go for it. You might be surprised how much you can learn and accomplish.

[lennya12threh]

Alright. About the jets, yes I'll research. Already did a bit.

Well I guess I'll take it apart again tomorrow and take a closer look at the carb as that it where they are located.

Main question still remains about that tube and if it's supposed to seem like it's completely clogged up, and the replies from the mechanic. I'm pretty sure he is wrong, and he thinks my whole 2t pump system is fine based on smoke coming out even after I told him I put in 2T in the tank to compensate, without him even looking and told me that I don't even need to look at the system.

So after looking at the system and doing some tests with it, and coming to him with this tube, I'm sure he couldn't admit to being wrong anyways.

Maybe he is right though? I don't know. Does anyone here?

[KRS1]

stop playing with the lines and remove the actual pump and replace all seals.

or just call it a day and just premix. Buy fuel in liters now instead of thinking in baht so you can determine the ratio.

[lennya12threh]

The seals inside the pump? So this means opening the pump?

I'd still be interested in knowing if that line going from the pump to the engine is supposed to be almost air tight from one end to the other. It obviously has some sort of filter on the end that enters just below the carb, but not sure if it is supposed to be as restricting of air passing through as it is, or if it is clogged up. If it is clogged up it may be the problem as I already tested the pump (removing the tube that goes to the engine) and when reving the engine it does move 2T out to where the tube would be attached.

[VocalNeal]

Been there, done that on a Kawa ZX 150 - trust me, go to the Kawa dealer ONLY and get the stock jets for both the carb and autolube as well as the autolube seal, and check the piston type.

Sounds good to me not expensive and you starting from stock.Oh and seeing as you are concerned you could buy a piece of the infamous rubber pipe.

Edited July 10, 2010 by VocalNeal

[lennya12threh]

So thats on Rama 9 I guess eh.

So they've got a place where they will actualy sit down with this old ass bike and check it out and have parts?

[KRS1]

if the pipe is acting the way you say it is, then its acting as a diaphram. Some fuel valves act like this also. The CBR 150's fuel valve underneath the gas tank works like this.

it works on suction and delivers a certain amount of oil/fuel on the induction stroke. When there's no suction, no oil fuel will be allowed to flow. Its a way to regulate the flow. So yes this makes sense.

The diaphrams in the CBR 150 usually get stuck in the closed position, not open.

Take the tube down to a Kawasaki dealer and get a new one too. Couldn't be more than 300-400 baht, and is a part that should definately be replaced on an old bike. I have a feeling there is more than one problem with your bike.

[VocalNeal]

So thats on Rama 9 I guess eh.

So they've got a place where they will actualy sit down with this old ass bike and check it out and have parts?

More likely here dealers

The first two have the same postal code as me and you know where I live?

[lennya12threh]

Nice link. Yea those two must be near me as it says Ket Klong Toi, which isn't a far drive. <BR><BR>I'm going to also tell them I "MIGHT " be interested in a new piston and ask them what is stock for this model. 2 ring or 3 ring, as it has been showing signs of perfect performace for the first 15-20 min, then as it get hotter (3/4 on the temp gauge) it starts loosing some of its power and feels shakey, although it can still hit the powerband, I just don't like to at this point because the engine feels strained. <BR><BR>As for the 2T pump I opened up the switch a bunch and got a ton of smoke comming out, but it was inconsistant, sometimes I would get like a ton of smoke, too much, and there would alwaysb e trail, then after 5 minutes I noticed there was like no smoke. Maybe a minor clog or something I believe. I need to use the bike today and will tomorrow, so for now I just closed up the switch (putting the 2t on like lowest setting) and premixxed/shook in a drum 6 litres with about 150ml of 2T. Worked well today. Just got back now.

[BSJ]

Hi lennya12threh, flexible rubber and plastic hoses can be affected by age, heat and contamination....or all 3. Minute cracks can remain unseen until pressure is applied. And hoses can collapse when under vacuum. When aluminium is used it's usually good for the life of the bike unless it gets crushed some how. Considering the age of your bike you need to consider all options. Carefully check all parts after they are 100% clean. You can pressure test hoses with an air line from a compressor which is fitted with an air blower attachment. Vacuum with a hand held vacumm pump. With seals look for slight wear on the shaft. Sometime the metal wears away as well as the rubber seal, you put a new seal on and discover the leak is still there! And don't forget, your have fun with it!

[lennya12threh]

One more question. Just for the record, would too much 2T or not enough 2T be a cause for a hot running engine?

I thought adding another post to this thread would get attention. Like "what the fuc_k else is he gonna say?"

[KRS1]

LOL...

not enough 2T would cause a hot running engine.

[spud1]

From your first post it is obvious you suffered from a seizure,or the bike did anyway.The problem you,ve got is a carburetion one.The jetting is wrong and the bike is running to lean.Your looking at the wrong problem with the lube system.Check if the main jet is of a standard

factory size.