Has Anyone Installed A Diesel Performance Chip In Their Mu-7 3.0 Ddi Vgs Models

[thailoht]

Finally have it installed and running, so far I've tried 2 settings and it has increased power a tiny bit of the line but midway(50-70km) is where you can feel it when you floor it....and since the Mu-7 already has quite good power the increase certainly does not feel like 30% as stated on the website. For now this will do but not impressed as much as I thought I would be and as for the "racechip" company customer service they SUCK !! The last e-mail I got was where they told me I don't have a common rail motor, I've e-mailed them twice since with NO reply. What would I tell others....DON'T bother once they have your money they don't give a hoot, buy something local where you can get proper support the increase in power just isn't worth it when dealing with companies such as this...When my warranty runs out I will look for other more permanent options, thanks for all your help guys....! Time to drive to Pattaya and try some other settings....??

Uh-oh! What were the factory settings of your chip?

I hope your results are better by the time you get back from Pattaya...At least taking off from the line!

With the chip installed, does your engine still run as smoothly as it did before the chip installation? Do you have any 'black puffs of smoke' or other unusual exhaust output?

Edited December 10, 2010 by thailoht

[MoonRiverOasis]

Finally have it installed and running, so far I've tried 2 settings and it has increased power a tiny bit of the line but midway(50-70km) is where you can feel it when you floor it.

I'm guessing the settings are just all wrong as noted by TransAm. There's absolutely no reason you shouldn't be able to achieve 15-20% more HP with the Racechip properly setup, and even a difference of 10% is very noticeable. The difficulty is going to be finding the right settings - it appears you're a pioneer on this board with this engine though, so we're probably not going to be of much help

Once setup right, you will notice substantially more "shove" as the turbo comes on boost, even at light throttle openings. The two dials control at what RPM the chip starts taking effect, and how much it boosts commonrail pressure once it does. I'm guessing that you've probably got a combination of too high RPM for the starting point, and to low of a commonrail boost when it does finally kick in.

Is the basic difference between Euro III and Euro IV just pollution emission or (and?) does it effect the engine performance, too? What effect will the Euro IV have on these pre 2012 engines?

Euro IV is a different diesel - it has substantially less sulphur - a synthetic lubricant is used instead of it. Euro IV engines have an additional particulate filter to trap emissions, but that's all that physically changes outside of ECU tuning.

So the Race Chip (brand that Richardshane has) only increases the pressure on diesel injected into engine (not by electronic tuning or is not by 'advanced' electronic tuning)? While the 'better' class of chips do use 'advanced' electronic tuning (which produces a more precise result) thus is why they are 'better'. Do I have it right?

The Racechip increases commonrail pressure, so simply more fuel gets injected. The more "advanced" method is to vary the injector timing (i.e. keep the injectors open longer so more fuel is injected), but head-to-head will not provide noticeably more power than a Racechip style product (In fact in my case a 35k Baht injector piggyback produced less power than the Racechip). There's a hard limit to how much extra HP you can make by shoving in more fuel alone - simple as that.

They both aim for the same goal (more fuel injected) they just go about it in different ways. using the two together is possible, but very tricky to tune, and will really just push you to keep on going with the mods, as more fuel alone hits a brick wall pretty quickly. Once you start down this path you're looking at bigger turbos, head work, exhaust work, intercooler work, inlet work etc etc.

Bottom line is, 15-30% more power is easy/cheap to achieve, anything more means lots more money and no chance of reversing it/hiding it and keeping your warranty.

My recommendation:

Install one of the two types of piggybacks that increase fuelling (+15-25%)

Install a high flow air filter like a K&N (+5%'ish)

If you want more:

Remove the catalytic converter (improves top end power by a few %)

Install an EGR block (improves low end power a few %)

If you still want more after these, the good news is they can all stay and you just build on top of it all.

Edited December 10, 2010 by MoonRiverOasis

[thailoht]

Is the basic difference between Euro III and Euro IV just pollution emission or (and?) does it effect the engine performance, too? What effect will the Euro IV have on these pre 2012 engines?

Euro IV is a different diesel - it has substantially less sulphur - a synthetic lubricant is used instead of it. Euro IV engines have an additional particulate filter to trap emissions, but that's all that physically changes outside of ECU tuning.

So the Race Chip (brand that Richardshane has) only increases the pressure on diesel injected into engine (not by electronic tuning or is not by 'advanced' electronic tuning)? While the 'better' class of chips do use 'advanced' electronic tuning (which produces a more precise result) thus is why they are 'better'. Do I have it right?

The Racechip increases commonrail pressure, so simply more fuel gets injected. The more "advanced" method is to vary the injector timing (i.e. keep the injectors open longer so more fuel is injected), but head-to-head will not provide noticeably more power than a Racechip style product (In fact in my case a 35k Baht injector piggyback produced less power than the Racechip).

They both aim for the same goal (more fuel injected) they just go about it in different ways. using the two together is possible, but very tricky to tune, and will really just push you to keep on going with the mods, as more fuel alone hits a brick wall pretty quickly.

Bottom line is, 15-30% more power is easy/cheap to achieve, anything more means lots more money and no chance of reversing it/hiding it and keeping your warranty.

Thanks MRO, I think I finally got it!

[philipm]

gents,

turbo lag- there is a technique with turbine housing that allows large turbo spool ridiculously quick.

for most average drivers, they prefer peak power to be between 2500-3500rpm range, as most who drives on express ways or in quick moving traffic, they dont like the idea that to obtain max torque feeling, is to low down that overtaking is a pain and sometimes dangerous.

even with our stage 3-4turbos chargers, for 300-400+hp our turbos start to spool between 1800-2000rpm, and hits hard from 2500 and beyond. we are talking about turbos that are rated between 500-700hp on benzene applications. (benzene dont drop turbine housings as much as diesels, due to high rpm range, it increases back pressure significantly) but due to our very short rpm range,

we need to drop the housings size's to an appropriate size that does not significantly increase back pressure, yet allow us to boost X3 times more than a benzene would. (benzenes depending on engine, like to boost between 1-1.4bar) we are boosting (2-3-4bar) depending on turbo charger design, flow rate and application.

there are many tricks of the trade,

we recently dynoed one of our local customers street/drag truck with our experiment race turbo with supporting mods (no internals though) and it made a whopping 486hp and 850nm of torque at dyno king facility. talk about insane hp levels for a 4 pot diesel, a 3L isuzu/chevy engine. its producing (162hp per Liter of displacement).

in regards to piggybacks,

crm- commonrail pressure boxs adjust the commonrail pressure, but different brands have different concept on how to tune it, the software and hardware. it makes a true difference. dont expect all brands to be the same. (most adjust the timing, the harder the tune the more hardcore-crude the engine will sound, but to that point if tuned to high-engine checklight is highly prone)

injector- adjust injector spray width, some adjust pilot and main injection, and most calibrate it with TPS (throttle position control) and rpm.

boostcut- is a Map cut device that allows the engine (ecu) read only std boost parameters to avoid overboost checklights/limp modes.

Maf- device allows us to alter maf signals to the ecu, to allow the engine to NOT restrict fuel delivery and allow the engine to make higher boost quicker. (like our monster v2, which has crm, injector, map, tps and maf all in one box. all parameter is tuned via laptop program.

for those who are bored with crm pressure boxs, its time to advance to injector boxs, as they claim alone addaitinal 35-55hp depending on application and boost. (if you do opt for injector box, you need to detune the crm box slightly otherwise it will run to much black smoke) you need it to compliment each other, vs tuning highest output on each boxs in hope to gain max hp. (it doesnt work that way).

[richardshane]

Well after some adjustments she's got power....now I can feel it !! Tomorrow I'll try some other configurations and see what that does...now I'm just concerned about screwing up my motor as I've got a lead foot.It feels good to have more power off the line, even heard a squeal...sometimes I have to let up so I don't. No check engine light yet so I'm happy !!

[thailoht]

Well after some adjustments she's got power....now I can feel it !! Tomorrow I'll try some other configurations and see what that does...now I'm just concerned about screwing up my motor as I've got a lead foot.It feels good to have more power off the line, even heard a squeal...sometimes I have to let up so I don't. No check engine light yet so I'm happy !!

Cool! I was worried you had lost track of your 'starting point' (factory settings) which I found on TransAM's(?) Diesel topic to be L=9, R= B. So what are your final settings? Any engine noise or smoke?

gents,

turbo lag- there is a technique with turbine housing that allows large turbo spool ridiculously quick.

for most average drivers, they prefer peak power to be between 2500-3500rpm range, as most who drives on express ways or in quick moving traffic, they dont like the idea that to obtain max torque feeling, is to low down that overtaking is a pain and sometimes dangerous.

even with our stage 3-4turbos chargers, for 300-400+hp our turbos start to spool between 1800-2000rpm, and hits hard from 2500 and beyond. we are talking about turbos that are rated between 500-700hp on benzene applications. (benzene dont drop turbine housings as much as diesels, due to high rpm range, it increases back pressure significantly) but due to our very short rpm range,

we need to drop the housings size's to an appropriate size that does not significantly increase back pressure, yet allow us to boost X3 times more than a benzene would. (benzenes depending on engine, like to boost between 1-1.4bar) we are boosting (2-3-4bar) depending on turbo charger design, flow rate and application.

there are many tricks of the trade,

we recently dynoed one of our local customers street/drag truck with our experiment race turbo with supporting mods (no internals though) and it made a whopping 486hp and 850nm of torque at dyno king facility. talk about insane hp levels for a 4 pot diesel, a 3L isuzu/chevy engine. its producing (162hp per Liter of displacement).

in regards to piggybacks,

crm- commonrail pressure boxs adjust the commonrail pressure, but different brands have different concept on how to tune it, the software and hardware. it makes a true difference. dont expect all brands to be the same. (most adjust the timing, the harder the tune the more hardcore-crude the engine will sound, but to that point if tuned to high-engine checklight is highly prone)

injector- adjust injector spray width, some adjust pilot and main injection, and most calibrate it with TPS (throttle position control) and rpm.

boostcut- is a Map cut device that allows the engine (ecu) read only std boost parameters to avoid overboost checklights/limp modes.

Maf- device allows us to alter maf signals to the ecu, to allow the engine to NOT restrict fuel delivery and allow the engine to make higher boost quicker. (like our monster v2, which has crm, injector, map, tps and maf all in one box. all parameter is tuned via laptop program.

for those who are bored with crm pressure boxs, its time to advance to injector boxs, as they claim alone add additional 35-55hp depending on application and boost. (if you do opt for injector box, you need to detune the crm box slightly otherwise it will run to much black smoke) you need it to compliment each other, vs tuning highest output on each boxs in hope to gain max hp. (it doesn't work that way).

Thanks again! I feel like I can half-way hand with you guys now and hope others are better able to follow the technological discussions.

I for one first gained interest from following TransAm's topic but the schooling in the mechanical theory that everyone presented here puts it all in perspective and makes it clear.

I'll be rolling into the shop after the holidays to get the best Diesel Chip possible installed but one that won't void my warranty!

[John 1]

Thailoht you need to read all the post's again any chip WILL void your warranty.

[MoonRiverOasis]

Thailoht you need to read all the post's again any chip WILL void your warranty.

.... if it can't be quickly/easily removed without leaving traces

That was another drawback of one of the more "advanced" piggybacks I tried (DTE-XPower), as they need to plug into the injector lines which necessitates removing the engine cover and it also needed a direct connection to the battery.

The Racechip Pro produced more power (once tweaked) and can be fitted/removed in about 2 minutes flat.

[thailoht]

Thailoht you need to read all the post's again any chip WILL void your warranty.

They have those Performance Chips that I think are called "Plug 'n Play"(?) that can be quickly installed and removed......these are the ones that will won't 'void' the warranty.

[thailoht]

While we are waiting for Richardshane to update us on his latest Chip tweaking results, I have question about the properties of and the use of the 4 wheel drive mode of this car:

Is it safe to drive in '4 wheel mode' while in a MU-7 (4x4) on dry pavement especially on mountain roads? I am asking because I thought I read that the 4 wheel drive mode of the MU-7 is not(?) suited for any dry-pavement driving.

[katabeachbum]

While we are waiting for Richardshane to update us on his latest Chip tweaking results, I have question about the properties of and the use of the 4 wheel drive mode of this car:

Is it safe to drive in '4 wheel mode' while in a MU-7 (4x4) on dry pavement especially on mountain roads? I am asking because I thought I read that the 4 wheel drive mode of the MU-7 is not(?) suited for any dry-pavement driving.

a part time engaged 4x4 as Vigo/all LOS pickups and MU7 is NOT suited to use on dry paved roads, while the full time 4x4 as in Fortuner works on all surfaces

[thailoht]

While we are waiting for Richardshane to update us on his latest Chip tweaking results, I have question about the properties of and the use of the 4 wheel drive mode of this car:

Is it safe to drive in '4 wheel mode' while in a MU-7 (4x4) on dry pavement especially on mountain roads? I am asking because I thought I read that the 4 wheel drive mode of the MU-7 is not(?) suited for any dry-pavement driving.

A part time engaged 4x4 as Vigo/all LOS pickups and MU7 is NOT suited to use on dry paved roads, while the full time 4x4 as in Fortuner works on all surfaces

Thanks for 'Making it Official' Kata!

Can you note what happens to the transmission's mechanical parts when driving on dry pavement (vs on off-road or on wet pavement) that make this a bad practice?

It's a shame how the 'facts' keep (trying to) rain on my 'I'm Rooting for the MU-7 (4x4)' parade.

I did like the road hugging ride of the (full-time) Fortuner, but, it's benzene fuel economy was (comparatively) atrocious plus I can only imagine the accelerated tire wear resulting from being constantly run in the full-time 4x4 mode and the subsequent added costs to replace those prematurely worn tires....

So, maybe this new 'negative' revelation is cancelled by its contributing factors!

Edited December 12, 2010 by thailoht

[MoonRiverOasis]

While we are waiting for Richardshane to update us on his latest Chip tweaking results, I have question about the properties of and the use of the 4 wheel drive mode of this car:

Is it safe to drive in '4 wheel mode' while in a MU-7 (4x4) on dry pavement especially on mountain roads? I am asking because I thought I read that the 4 wheel drive mode of the MU-7 is not(?) suited for any dry-pavement driving.

A part time engaged 4x4 as Vigo/all LOS pickups and MU7 is NOT suited to use on dry paved roads, while the full time 4x4 as in Fortuner works on all surfaces

Thanks for 'Making it Official' Kata!

Can you note what happens to the transmission's mechanical parts when driving on dry pavement (vs on off-road or on wet pavement) that make this a bad practice?

It's a shame how the 'facts' keep (trying to) rain on my 'I'm Rooting for the MU-7 (4x4)' parade.

I did like the road hugging ride of the (full-time) Fortuner, but, it's benzene fuel economy was (comparatively) atrocious plus I can only imagine the accelerated tire wear resulting from being constantly run in the full-time 4x4 mode and the subsequent added costs to replace those prematurely worn tires....

So, maybe this new 'negative' revelation is cancelled by its contributing factors!

Pure 4WD mode locks the front and rear diffs, and also locks the transfer case (the "diff" that runs between the front and the rear) - thus all wheels are forced to spin at exactly the same speed. The problem is turning - as you go around bends, the outside wheels need to spin faster than the inside wheels, and the rear wheels need to spin at different rates to the front wheels (front wheels off-center have a different turn radius the the fixed-forward rear wheels).

If you engage pure 4WD mode on a grippy surface, you'll be unduly stressing the diffs and transfer case (which can quickly lead to failure) and you'll also be losing traction as the locking will in fact force your tires to break traction.

However, not all 4WD systems are equal. Some use Viscous Couplings instead of locked diffs and a locked transfer case. Visous couplings allow each wheel to spin at a different speed, while still maintaining drive power to all wheels. VC's work on the same basic principles as the torque converter in an automatic transmission.

The Fortuner AWD system uses viscous couplings all-round, as does the Super Select 4WD system in the Pajero Sport (when in 4H mode) - both of these are safe to use on dry pavement on permanent basis. The downside of viscous only 4WD is when used off-road - without locking less power gets down on slippery surfaces. The Super Select 4WD system in the Pajero sport has 4 different settings to make it an real all-rounder - 4H for viscous 4WD in all conditions (like the Fortuner), 4HLc (4WD with locked diffs./transfer) for off-roading, 4LLc (4WD locked with lower gearing for hardcore off-roading), and 2H for rear-wheel drive and less fuel consumption.

VC all wheel drive systems will not wear tires any faster than 2WD.

EDIT: Sorry if that reads a little like rivalry spin. Just to prove I'm trying to be impartial I'd like to point out that the MU-7 Primo won 2WD PPV of the year in 2008, 2009 and 2010. The Pajero Sport won 4WD PPV of the year in 2009 and 2010 though (it wasn't around in 2008) (sorry couldn't help it)

Edited December 12, 2010 by MoonRiverOasis

[thailoht]

A part time engaged 4x4 as Vigo/all LOS pickups and MU7 is NOT suited to use on dry paved roads, while the full time 4x4 as in Fortuner works on all surfaces

Pure 4WD mode locks the front and rear diffs, and also locks the transfer case (the "diff" that runs between the front and the rear) - thus all wheels are forced to spin at exactly the same speed. The problem is turning - as you go around bends, the outside wheels need to spin faster than the inside wheels, and the rear wheels need to spin at different rates to the front wheels (front wheels off-center have a different turn radius the the fixed-forward rear wheels).

If you engage pure 4WD mode on a grippy surface, you'll be unduly stressing the diffs and transfer case (which can quickly lead to failure) and you'll also be losing traction as the locking will in fact force your tires to break traction.

However, not all 4WD systems are equal. Some use Viscous Couplings instead of locked diffs and a locked transfer case. Visous couplings allow each wheel to spin at a different speed, while still maintaining drive power to all wheels. VC's work on the same basic principles as the torque converter in an automatic transmission.

The Fortuner AWD system uses viscous couplings all-round, as does the Super Select 4WD system in the Pajero Sport (when in 4H mode) - both of these are safe to use on dry pavement on permanent basis. The downside of viscous only 4WD is when used off-road - without locking less power gets down on slippery surfaces. The Super Select 4WD system in the Pajero sport has 4 different settings to make it an real all-rounder - 4H for viscous 4WD in all conditions (like the Fortuner), 4HLc (4WD with locked diffs./transfer) for off-roading, 4LLc (4WD locked with lower gearing for hardcore off-roading), and 2H for rear-wheel drive and less fuel consumption.

VC all wheel drive systems will not wear tires any faster than 2WD.

EDIT: Sorry if that reads a little like rivalry spin. Just to prove I'm trying to be impartial I'd like to point out that the MU-7 Primo won 2WD PPV of the year in 2008, 2009 and 2010. The Pajero Sport won 4WD PPV of the year in 2009 and 2010 though (it wasn't around in 2008) (sorry couldn't help it)

Thanks again MRO! I dig knowing the facts - never kill the messenger.... Now I know that the Fortuner's 4x4 system doesn't add pre-mature wear on the tires! Also, the Pajero's 4x4 system looks appealing! Thank goodness 4x4 in LOS isn't a critical factor, otherwise there would be even more competition for the MU-7 4x4 crown IMHO.

Besides wishing to use the 4x4 mode up and down some of those mountain roads, I will mainly be using the 4x4 on the wet roads here in LOS and also on the occasional off-road and dirt road that I may come across.

So, how does the 4x4 push-button (part-time) system work in the MU-7?

I

[MoonRiverOasis]

MRO! I dig knowing the facts - never kill the messenger.... Now I know that

So, how does the 4x4 push-button (part-time) system work in the MU-7?

Ooops, I forgot to point that out

The 4WD system on Isuzu's use a mechanically locked transfer case, so should never be used on grippy surfaces. Essentially the settings available are the same as the 4HLc, 4LLc, and 2H modes on the Mitsu Super Select system, but no equivalent to the 4H setting.

Edited December 13, 2010 by MoonRiverOasis

[richardshane]

Works fine change back and forth no problem as long as speed is under 100 kmh...I'll use it on a highway when we hit a downpour....I haven't had a chance to play with the settings on my racechip as I've also got my son who is 1 to look after and when the wifes in school, I look after him alone....non-stop go

[thailoht]

Well, after some adjustments she's got power....now, I can feel it !! Tomorrow I'll try some other configurations and see what that does...now I'm just concerned about screwing up my motor as I've got a lead foot. It feels good to have more power off the line, even heard a squeal...sometimes I have to let up so I don't. No check engine light yet so I'm happy !!

I sure hope you get your chip tweaked and post your final settings.......it would be interesting to see how far they are from the original factory settings.

To help insure against any potential drive train damage, the consensus among the automotive guys here is to install a transmission cooler - about 3500 baht.

That's the first thing I am doing.

Also, I am going to use only one of the highest rated brands of transmission fluid and synthetic engine oil.

[thailoht]

Yo! RichardShane, we hope you haven't got your settings just right and rode off into the sunset and forgot us.....

We are looking to you to for an update on how everything is going with your car and its chip performance......!

[weet]

Hey Richardshane & thailoht

Have you guys bought a racechip pro and installed it?

If yes can you advise on the optimal setting between power gain and fuel economy ?

Looking to hear from likeminded mu7 owners!

[transam]

Hey Richardshane & thailoht

Have you guys bought a racechip pro and installed it?

If yes can you advise on the optimal setting between power gain and fuel economy ?

Looking to hear from likeminded mu7 owners!

That will be the factory settings as advertised for your application.

[thailoht]

Hey Richardshane & thailoht

Have you guys bought a racechip pro and installed it?

If yes can you advise on the optimal setting between power gain and fuel economy ?

Looking to hear from like minded MU7 owners!

....I have been waiting for Richardshane to give us an update on those very points!

If you have a Racechip, I have learned that the factory settings are 9(left dial) - B(right dial). Also, one 3.0L Isuzu owner swears by his settings, (either one of):

8(L) - 0(right dial)

8(L) - 3(right dial)

After you try those settings, will you remember to update the rest of us on your results?

Edited January 15, 2011 by thailoht

[weet]

I most definitely will thailoht !

Thx for e info... However I'm now outside LOS n only set to return after 1st week of feb.

[Kwasaki]

I most definitely will thailoht !

Thx for e info... However I'm now outside LOS n only set to return after 1st week of feb.

You should have a instruction booklet with the Racechip-Pro which explains everything to you, there is also one called Racechip which may have a different setting but I think there basically the same.

For Racechip-pro the :- Left dial is : - Turn switch 1. the efficency dial. Right dial is :- Turn switch 2. the speedband tuning dial.

The factory setting is usually :- switch 1. ' B ' switch 2. ' 9 '

The minimum on both dials is :- ' 8 ' the maximum :- ' 7 ' to increase settings on each dial switch you turn clockwise only one or two positions at anyone time.

Edited January 16, 2011 by Kwasaki

[thailoht]

I most definitely will thailoht !

Thx for e info... However I'm now outside LOS n only set to return after 1st week of feb.

You should have a instruction booklet with the Racechip-Pro which explains everything to you, there is also one called Racechip which may have a different setting but I think there basically the same.

For Racechip-pro the :- Left dial is : - Turn switch 1. the efficiency dial. Right dial is :- Turn switch 2. the speed band tuning dial.

The factory setting is usually :- switch 1. ' B ' switch 2. ' 9 '

The minimum on both dials is :- ' 8 ' the maximum :- ' 7 ' to increase settings on each dial switch you turn clockwise only one or two positions at anyone time.

I believe you have the '9' and 'B' settings reversed: According to postings in the other (2) diesel chip threads - when you first open your chip box - everyone else factory settings are:

Dial on the left side is '9' Dial on the right side is 'B'

[weet]

hi thailoht

curious which setting are you on? 9B ? 80 ? 83?

do you notice any change in fuel consumption when you tweak outside the default setting?

what about drivability ? still a smooth curve ?

[thailoht]

Hi Thailoht

curious which setting are you on? 9B ? 80 ? 83?

Do you notice any change in fuel consumption when you tweak outside the default setting?

what about drive ability? Still a smooth curve?

Hey, I don't have a chip - yet. I was looking to have this thread serve as a source to gather everyone's Isuzu 3.0L 'Diesel Chip' experiences in order to see which 'chip' brand (and at what settings) produce the best results: Phillip M's, RaceChip or any other chip.

The 8-0 and 8-3 settings are RaceChip results posted by an Isuzu 3.0L owner.

Edited January 17, 2011 by thailoht

[Kwasaki]

I most definitely will thailoht !

Thx for e info... However I'm now outside LOS n only set to return after 1st week of feb.

You should have a instruction booklet with the Racechip-Pro which explains everything to you, there is also one called Racechip which may have a different setting but I think there basically the same.

For Racechip-pro the :- Left dial is : - Turn switch 1. the efficiency dial. Right dial is :- Turn switch 2. the speed band tuning dial.

The factory setting is usually :- switch 1. ' B ' switch 2. ' 9 '

The minimum on both dials is :- ' 8 ' the maximum :- ' 7 ' to increase settings on each dial switch you turn clockwise only one or two positions at anyone time.

I believe you have the '9' and 'B' settings reversed: According to postings in the other (2) diesel chip threads - when you first open your chip box - everyone else factory settings are:

Dial on the left side is '9' Dial on the right side is 'B'

I refer to my post as before it is for a Vigo 3.0, I don't know about the factory setting for Isuzu, that's the setting it was at when mine came.

I believe all the Racechip-Pro's are the same it's only the cable fitment to commonrail plug connecters that are different for each model.

Here's one of the booklet pages, knock yourself out.

[timekeeper]

I most definitely will thailoht !

Thx for e info... However I'm now outside LOS n only set to return after 1st week of feb.

You should have a instruction booklet with the Racechip-Pro which explains everything to you, there is also one called Racechip which may have a different setting but I think there basically the same.

For Racechip-pro the :- Left dial is : - Turn switch 1. the efficiency dial. Right dial is :- Turn switch 2. the speed band tuning dial.

The factory setting is usually :- switch 1. ' B ' switch 2. ' 9 '

The minimum on both dials is :- ' 8 ' the maximum :- ' 7 ' to increase settings on each dial switch you turn clockwise only one or two positions at anyone time.

I believe you have the '9' and 'B' settings reversed: According to postings in the other (2) diesel chip threads - when you first open your chip box - everyone else factory settings are:

Dial on the left side is '9' Dial on the right side is 'B'

I refer to my post as before it is for a Vigo 3.0, I don't know about the factory setting for Isuzu, that's the setting it was at when mine came.

I believe all the Racechip-Pro's are the same it's only the cable fitment to commonrail plug connecters that are different for each model.

Here's one of the booklet pages, knock yourself out.

jumping into this Izuzu thread

i have just bought a racechip pro for my 3.0 diesel fortuner

heres a picture of the standard settings

dial left set to 9 dial right set to B

i have not installed it yet and would like to know if anyone has tweaked the settings for this model of Toyota

if so what were the best results they had in terms of power increase and general usability ?

i am not after a loud crude smoky set up that returns low 10's but somewhere nid range between factory and that level

any one played around and achieved good settings they might pass along?

this would save me tweaking whilst under the bonnet

if so , thank you in advance.

[Shocktreatment]

Note that I have installed on piggyback on a lower model 2.5L Isuzu pickup (116HP/280Nm) and while it definitely made a difference, because it's all percentages it wasn't enough to make you say 'wow'. The 3.0L is a different beast though - adding 20-30% to it will make a very noticeable difference.

You really should add a boost cut if you are going to go to the expense of fitting a piggy back system as adding more fuel with standard boost is a bit of a waste of time.

I know from experince piggy back with boost cut turns the 2.5 isuzu into a quick little truck.

[vagosofron]

I looked those 2 pics...is that jumper in the correct position? Because i emailed the company and they told me that if cou fit the jumper in a certain position you get a start delay on the chip and it only starts working after the engine gets warm enough. Anyone tried that?