Nsr 125 - Preventive Maintenance And Tips?

[Kf6vci]

Hi All

I'm getting this NSR to get about town. Will change the brake fluid and air filter and spark plug and give it a full service. Is there anything an owner might wish to recommend?

Cheers, Chris

[KRS1]

I think you mean NSR 150? Hmmm where to start, ok ride the bike and warm it up for 15 minutes first or until it stops the cold stuttering.Pull choke to see if it works, bike should stall if it works after warm up. Push choke back down.

Take off right middle side fairing piece, 5 screws.

Clutch

Check how much clutch you have left by looking at the adjusting nuts at the cable down by the engine, go ahead and tighten it up a bit. For me i like a clutch that will release the bike when i barely let it out. It makes starting off the line so much better, than a lethargic clutch. Alot of power loss problems with these bikes are simply the clutches needing readjustment. The bike will wind out and make a lot of noise but won't move when its not adjusted right.

Autolube System

Calibration should be checked with throttle turned wide open.

Two 10mm bolts hold the autolube cover on, you'll need sockets, can't use wrenches. There's an indicator mark on the drum pulley that moves, then there is an indicator on the autolube pump itself, it will be a sharp point. The indicator mark on the pulley should line up with the sharp point indicator. The mark should never be to the left of the sharp point, thats lean. It's acceptable to be within 1mm to the right of the sharp point indicator though.

If you look at the point and its way off by like a centimeter or so, more than likely the connection that turns throttle cable into two cables (1 for autolube/1 for carb) has to be readjusted. There's a rubber boot that goes over the autolube wire at the 2 cable junction that likes to slip back, and pulls the outer cable housing with it causing the inner cable to tension, shove the outer cable housing back into the junction and fit the boot back in place. Then recheck the autolube pump.

And don't forget to check the autolube pump while the throttle is turned wide open. Adjust the throttle cable before adjusting autolube pump/cable.

Carb Settings

Check idle and airscrew, airscrew should be turned 2-2.5 revolutions out. Idle should be set around 1400 RPM, 1800 RPM for older bikes to compensate for piston wear and knock, make sure choke is down and off. The idle speed is important so it matches the RC valve, if not the bike will hesitate before the powerband kicks in. Powerband should be instantaneous, if not bump the idle up a bit.

RC Valve

Ride the bike to get the engine warm first for about 15 minutes or until it stops stuttering from a cold engine. Turn off bike "WITH THE KEY" , you have to do this so you can see where the RC valve is currently calibrated.

There's an "L" and an "H" mark around the pulley by the cylinder on the right side of the bike, you may have to take off the pulley cover, if it hasn't already been taken off and lost by Somchai, Somchai has lost most covers on most NSR's i have come across.

Then there is an 'indicator line' by the "H" mark, make sure the pulley marker is lined up with the indicator line on the "H" side, not the "L" side

When you first turn the key, you'll hear the servo motor moving the RC valve, if you don't hear anything. Either the battery is low or the RC valve doesn't work. When you rev the bike you should see the pulley moving, if it dont, then it dont work.

Sprockets

14/39 for good all around riding up to 160-170 ish kph , 14/42 get blast around in the city like a maniac. But will top out at around 120 kph.

I encourage you to do the work yourself, it's simple and these days most shops wont know what to do with these bikes anymore.

Edited August 1, 2011 by KRS1

[KRS1]

I can't believe i just wrote all that.

[chunkylover53]

Don't use fully synthetic oil - something about the consistency of it causes quicker wearing in wet clutches. That's all I can tell you, sorry!

[Kf6vci]

Don't use fully synthetic oil - something about the consistency of it causes quicker wearing in wet clutches. That's all I can tell you, sorry!

Wow, I'm astonished and grateful!

The bad news is - please don't blow a gasket - the lady owner showed some Honda photos, but it turned out to be a Kawasaki 125 KIPS I paid 8,500 as the engine seems sweet.

In a race, the bike might give the CBR 150 a run for the money...

Cheers,

Chris