Farang Jungle Dwellers In Bangkok

[Gaccha]

I was fairly sure that every topic that could be covered has been covered by ThaiVisa, but I think I found something new...

A slightly edgy thing to do in Bangkok is to head to the 'jungle' across the Chao Praya river just south of Klong Toey slum. It is mostly coconut plantations, swampland and small hamlets. And it is indeed a very strange place when you think it is a mere 5 minutes taxi drive from Silom. I recommend the large and well-kept park in the centre of the jungle. I also recommend a 6 foot staff to keep away the feral dogs that are everywhere.

... but I digress.

What I found fascinating was the discovery that farangs live there to save money and to scratch by in their fantasies of paradise. The rents at 1,000 baht are a pretty good deal for such a good location. And if you can put up with snakes, monitor lizards and slash-and-burn farming then life may be pretty good. Obviously, there are no 7-11s, and no facilities recognisable to civilisation but they are a 1,000 baht for a month.

I was told they lived there in order to wait for permanent residency (PR). I am no visa expert, but I thought you needed a minimum income to get PR. Surely, if they are so financially distressed as to have to rent at 1,000 baht then PR is not on the horizon.

An Indian man told me he was there as a way to reach the West. Apparently, while the British embassy in India knows every trick to get visas to the West, the Brit Embassy is soft here and so many Indians work in Thailand for a few years to gain legitimacy to move to the UK. As he stood there in front of a man trying to catch a snake, I felt his fantasy was possibly more delusional than the farangs.

I found a condiminum-- the only building that looked designed-- several stories high with balconies in this jungle. Perhaps you can be enticed live there...

[impulse]

Thanks! I'm not going to live there, but you have piqued my curiosity and I plan to take a jaunt to see what the elephant ear is all about...

[BookMan]

Interesting thread.... How do you make your way there from say Sala Deang BTS?

[GarryP]

I go there regularly. I love cycling around those raised walkways. Despite only being across the river, it is as if you are in the countryside. I also like snakes and lizards and all that and have only been chased by dogs twice, once because the dog did not like my whistling. BTW there is a 7/11 and a few mini marts.

It gets busy on Saturday and Sunday mornings with the canalside market ("Bang Nam Peung Floating market" misnomer as it is not floating) so I usually go in the afternoons when it is much quieter. There are some lovely houses in the small lanes and I wouldn't mind living there if it weren't so inconvenient to get to work.

It is a protrected zone under royal patronage, as is the public park, so you will not get any crazy building boom and there is a limit to the height of buildings all to protect the place.

4 or 5 hours tootling around on my bike is a total stress reliever.

[jEFFREYk44]

This area, Phra Phra Daeng, is not far from where I live. 3-4 years ago Time magazine, in its Best of Asia issue, listed it as "Best Urban Oasis". Some really nice houses and some parts are very nice. Cannot get there by skytrain unless you take it to Taksin station, take the Marriott boat to the hotel across the river and then hire a taxi.........it is, as Time said, to stand amid the trees along the road, ok, jungle, and be able to view the hi-rises downtown

[xen]

Wasn't there a bit of a scandal a few years back about some developers with connections trying to buy up ,or take over, this area and re-sell it. It is a vague recollection so i may be thinking of another area on the Thonburi side . I always intended to have a look for myself as the photos ( in the other paper ) made it look like what parts of BKK would have been like a century ago. Now i really must have a look .

Edited January 13, 2012 by xen

[RupertIII]

An alternative route is BTS to Bangna and taxi to Thanon Sanphawut (about 2.5 kms), go to the end of sanphawut and take the ferry across. Also parking there or in the Wat adjacent. Once over the river probably limited to motorcycle taxis.

[Briggsy]

I thought it was called Bang Ka Jao. You can get an, at times, scary ferry across from Bang Na passing inches from huge container ships that dwarf the ferry.

[emilyb]

The area's called Pig Gut in Thai by the locals because of the shape it makes on a map, but it's divided up into a few areas from what I gather - Bang Krachao seems to be the Northern and Eastern End, Bang Nam Pheung the South Central side and so on. Still, I've never seen the legal designations on a map and the best way to get around is just to know which wat or main soi something is near. There's been massive development in specifically the last 2-3 years, as something changed (perhaps the scandal mentioned above). There are big new roads, tons of new 2-3 story homes, new apartment buildings and so on.

As you continue out Petchahung toward the Western neck of the island, starting at about the middle of the place (around Petchahung Soi 31 maybe) you'll start to see restaurants (a few of them sit-down style and quite novel - especially two near Wat Chak Daeng), a mini Tesco, 7/11s and tons of things. There are small market areas and such near Bang Kor Bua and other parts of the island, but this is the only part that has typical city infrastructure. Still, with the number of enormous estates going up and refurbishings going on (ran into a farang Thai couple last week that had beautifully re-done their wooden home) you're starting to see upscale-ish coffee shops and the like. If this pace continues, within a decade it'll look like wealthier parts of Phra Padaeng or Nonthaburi.

Not all the farangs living there are poor, though a few rent cheap places to scrape by. Several I've met over the last 5-6 years were on expat packages or the like and just loved the area, so they either built or refurbished homes and lived there. If you do want to rent in the THB 1,000/mo range, though, several of the new little blocks of flats can accommodate you. Most are not near the floating market, but on the opposite side of Petchahung (from what I can tell).

Nice area, enjoy it while it lasts!

EDIT: Here's my favorite restaurant, mentioned above:

http://www.bangkokpost.com/food/restaurants/listing/baan-chan-muang-restaurant/8802/

Can't find a better online review for it, sadly.

Edited January 16, 2012 by emilyb

[Gaccha]

The area's called Pig Gut in Thai by the locals because of the shape it makes on a map, but it's divided up into a few areas from what I gather - Bang Krachao seems to be the Northern and Eastern End, Bang Nam Pheung the South Central side and so on. Still, I've never seen the legal designations on a map and the best way to get around is just to know which wat or main soi something is near. There's been massive development in specifically the last 2-3 years, as something changed (perhaps the scandal mentioned above). There are big new roads, tons of new 2-3 story homes, new apartment buildings and so on.

>>snip<<

Now that is what I call local knowledge. Superb.

[bergen]

The area's called Pig Gut in Thai by the locals because of the shape it makes on a map, but it's divided up into a few areas from what I gather - Bang Krachao seems to be the Northern and Eastern End, Bang Nam Pheung the South Central side and so on. Still, I've never seen the legal designations on a map and the best way to get around is just to know which wat or main soi something is near. There's been massive development in specifically the last 2-3 years, as something changed (perhaps the scandal mentioned above). There are big new roads, tons of new 2-3 story homes, new apartment buildings and so on.

>>snip<<

Now that is what I call local knowledge. Superb.

Agreed!

[xen]

Just out of curiosity, how did it fare with the recent floods ? It looks like it would be right in the path of any water coming down the river.

It would be a shame if it does get developed as what an assett to Bangkok if it could be a park similar to Central Park in New York. It would not matter what politician it gets named after as long as some politician just has the foresite and wisdom to make it happen.The lungs of Bangkok i had read that it has been called by some.

[GarryP]

Just out of curiosity, how did it fare with the recent floods ? It looks like it would be right in the path of any water coming down the river.

It would be a shame if it does get developed as what an assett to Bangkok if it could be a park similar to Central Park in New York. It would not matter what politician it gets named after as long as some politician just has the foresite and wisdom to make it happen.The lungs of Bangkok i had read that it has been called by some.

I went over during the floods and it was fine. The sluice gates at the neck of the area were wide open to let the water take the shortest route to the sea and by was it flowing. I only saw a few very old houses which were flooded, but then they were much lower than the other houses in the vicinity which had been built on raised land.

Of the apartment buildings I saw they were all low rise blocks. Also, while the main roads have been widened and improved, they are two lane only, with the largest cutting straight through the middle. Once you get off that road, the others are quite small.

In addition to the park and the market there are other interesting things to see and do. There are a number of homestays in operation. Bicycle tours are a big thing now. But best of all is just dispapearing down the walkways and small sois on your bike, stopping when the fancy takes you and generally getting lost.

[emilyb]

As GarryP said, no problems. One of the more entertaining things about the flood with reference to the area is that when you ask about it, the mototaxi guys and other folks will sometimes laugh in derision - as if to say, "Haha, not HERE. Maybe in some other shitty parts of town." It's warm, not cynical, so it makes me laugh. Condo developments just up on Suksawat all have NO FLOOD in big letters on the sign too. The whole area's probably set for even more attention now, sadly, what with the equidistant-from-the-city-center green equivalent (Nonthaburi) being a big lake for part of the year.

Yeah, all the development's low rise. There's some regulation about building height, but I've seen at least 2-3 three story buildings now (I'd been told the limit was two, but maybe that's counting Thai style with the ground floor as story zero). There is a ton of green for sure, still, especially on the Eastern end. Just a shame to see it getting built up even there. Not that I begrudge local people upgrading their quality of life, of course, which some of it is - but some of it's also Bangkok folks moving in, fencing everything and then building those big gaudy palatial estates that the wealthy here love to build. The coolest house there was up for sale a while back, little place built by some Danish guy in the Northeast corner. Designed in that boxy Danish style, but very cleverly designed in any case. The wooden one I saw the farang husband and (probably) Thai wife in was the best refurb I've seen. Beautifully refashioned wood, huge glass windows on the ground floor - right on the path not too far from the floating market.

Edited January 17, 2012 by emilyb

[GarryP]

As GarryP said, no problems. One of the more entertaining things about the flood with reference to the area is that when you ask about it, the mototaxi guys and other folks will sometimes laugh in derision - as if to say, "Haha, not HERE. Maybe in some other shitty parts of town." It's warm, not cynical, so it makes me laugh. Condo developments just up on Suksawat all have NO FLOOD in big letters on the sign too. The whole area's probably set for even more attention now, sadly, what with the equidistant-from-the-city-center green equivalent (Nonthaburi) being a big lake for part of the year.

Yeah, all the development's low rise. There's some regulation about building height, but I've seen at least 2-3 three story buildings now (I'd been told the limit was two, but maybe that's counting Thai style with the ground floor as story zero). There is a ton of green for sure, still, especially on the Eastern end. Just a shame to see it getting built up even there. Not that I begrudge local people upgrading their quality of life, of course, which some of it is - but some of it's also Bangkok folks moving in, fencing everything and then building those big gaudy palatial estates that the wealthy here love to build. The coolest house there was up for sale a while back, little place built by some Danish guy in the Northeast corner. Designed in that boxy Danish style, but very cleverly designed in any case. The wooden one I saw the farang husband and (probably) Thai wife in was the best refurb I've seen. Beautifully refashioned wood, huge glass windows on the ground floor - right on the path not too far from the floating market.

I think I know which house you are talking about. That wooden house at the end of a very short lane (you can see it from the main throughfare) is an absolute stunner. There is another nice place just behind the temple near the end of Petchahung Road close to where it intersects with Bua Beung Pattana Road. I can't remember the name of the temple. A stucco type house, but the grounds could do with some work.

As to the the large houses, I assume that extremely large mansion (it looks totally out of place) just before the junction (with the open market and 7/11) with the road heading the Bang Kachao, is the type you are talking about.

I note they are building a new resort too quite near Bang Nam Peung Temple. It looks like they are trying to make it appear ecco friendly but it does look so out of place.

I really fancied cycling around during the so called cool season but have been too busy with my new house. Hopefully, come February I shall get back across the river. Despite my many visits I never tire of the place.

[nocturn]

so can anyone provide clear directions on how to get there? those i have read thus far really havent made that much sense to me.

[Digitalbanana]

By road just look on Google Maps. Easy enough, the way I used to go was over the Rama 9 bridge. The newer Industrial ring road bridge also drops you off nearby. By boat (walking only) the ferry at Klong Teoy near the Port Auth Of Thai gets there in five minutes. There is also a ferry at the Caltex terminal off Rama 3 I think - was last time I went 10 years ago? Loads of other ways aslo, including a laborious car ferry system that looks rather dodgy (if it still operates?)

[ashacat]

By road just look on Google Maps. Easy enough, the way I used to go was over the Rama 9 bridge. The newer Industrial ring road bridge also drops you off nearby. By boat (walking only) the ferry at Klong Teoy near the Port Auth Of Thai gets there in five minutes. There is also a ferry at the Caltex terminal off Rama 3 I think - was last time I went 10 years ago? Loads of other ways aslo, including a laborious car ferry system that looks rather dodgy (if it still operates?)

Yep, getting a boat from the Port Authority is the most direct route.

[Gaccha]

...and the ferry pier is actually at the end of the 'Wat Klong Toey Nork' street. So ask the taxi driver for this Temple. Or walk from Lumpini Park MRT station-- surely no more than a 20 minute walk.

The 'Wat Klong Toey Nork' street is simply a 100 metre footpath. There are some non-canoe boats that cross the river, so if you have a bicyle, you can take one of them.

[GarryP]

From where I live the nearest ferry is at the end of Sanphawut Rd. The ferry is for pedestrians, bicycles and motorcycles only. It crosses to Wat Bang Nam Peung, which is identified as Bang Ko Bua on Google Maps. You can take a bus to Bang Na Intersection and then get a motorcycle down to the end of the road to the ferry which operates behind the temple. Alternatively, take the BTS to Bang Na and then walk back towards Bang Na intersection before taking a motorcycle.