Using 4Wd In The Wet - Or Not

[Shurup]

When should one use 4 high vs low and should you be in a complete stopped and neutral position to shift between one or the other?

4WD can be engaged/disengaged under 80kmph. The 4WD low is purely for steep off road gradients and is engaged when stationary.

With electronic T-case (push button or a switch) 4Lo can only be engaged when either spopped or stopped and in a neutral gear (depends on manufacturers and models), otherwise it won't engage. On a manual box you can switch to 4Lo and back when slowly rolling, but it's not recommended.

As TA mentioned 4Lo is for Off-Road. Another application I can think of is if you pull something real heavy (up a steep hill or getting something un-stuck) then the lower gear ratio may be preferrable to reduce the strain on the transmission.

[Shurup]

- Using 4 WD on dry pavement isn't recommended even when driving straight as even the slightest difference in side of front and rear tires (usually rears are more worn out than the front) will create big enough binding in driveline to cause damage to the weakest link (normally it's a t-case). The damage may happen very quick (a few days), not quick (a few years) or not at all. There is no guarantee.

- It's OK to use 4 WD on wet or slippery roads or in any road conditions when the traction is reduced. Pretty much anything other than dry pavement. But it's not always necessary.

- With all the nunnies in the modern vehicles (like vehicle sability control and traction control), it's not always possible to loose traction even if you want to.

I still remember years back when I just bought my Camaro (RWD), I was making a turn on intersection and gave it a little more than I had to and I made a doughnut right on the intersection. Glad there were no cars there. It was after the rain by the way. Now, with my 07 Toyota Tundra (they only sell the in NA) even if I wanted to repeat that experience, it wouldn't let me unless I turn off all the nunneis.

- In my book, a wet road does not justify turning on a 4WD. What more, if you're carrying stuff in the box, you will have much greater traction than when you're driving empty.

Canadian's and Americans living in the Northern States know that as almost everyone was loading sandbags in the boxes or trunks of their RWD cars for the Winter season.

- Flooded roads are different than wet roads. Don't rely totaly on 4WD, it will be of SOME help but not a lot. It's essentially the same as driving on ice. On flooded roads only the tire tread pattern, tire width and YOUR SPEED (!!!) will make a difference. Google and read about tire hydroplaning.

- 2WD with LSD or Locking Diff will in many "stuck" cases have advantage over 4WD with both front and rear open differentials.

- TA, I would like to correct you on this one. I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer that installs LSD in the front. What you described as the wheel hop on dry pavement (when you make a turn I presume) is a normal behaviour of any 4WD vehicle with any type of differential when 4x4 is engaged. The reason for that is not only your R and L front tires travel different distances when you make a turn, but the travel distances of the front and rear tires will also be different with fronts having to travel farther than the rears. T-case in 4WD system will not allow F and R driveshafts to rorate at different speeds so something gotta slip, or hop as you described. LSD has clutches in it to keep the R and L half-axles somewhat locked together, but if the torque exceeds the preset value of LSD (as in making a turn on drive pavement, regardless if you're in 2 or 4 WD), it will allow for a slip. When clutches slip, they wear out and so they would be gone real fast if installed in the front. I know only a few hardcore off-road enthusiasts that install LSD in the front, but then they have locking front hubs so they can "disconnect" the wheels from the drivetrain therefore saving the LSD when not off-roading. Most off-roaders would opt for a locking diff in a front.

Some good info with great animations are here:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

My opinion (if anyone cares for it), unless I lived out in a country where the possibility to stuck is high, I wouldn't buy a 4wd in Thailand.

[transam]

- Using 4 WD on dry pavement isn't recommended even when driving straight as even the slightest difference in side of front and rear tires (usually rears are more worn out than the front) will create big enough binding in driveline to cause damage to the weakest link (normally it's a t-case). The damage may happen very quick (a few days), not quick (a few years) or not at all. There is no guarantee.

- It's OK to use 4 WD on wet or slippery roads or in any road conditions when the traction is reduced. Pretty much anything other than dry pavement. But it's not always necessary.

- With all the nunnies in the modern vehicles (like vehicle sability control and traction control), it's not always possible to loose traction even if you want to.

I still remember years back when I just bought my Camaro (RWD), I was making a turn on intersection and gave it a little more than I had to and I made a doughnut right on the intersection. Glad there were no cars there. It was after the rain by the way. Now, with my 07 Toyota Tundra (they only sell the in NA) even if I wanted to repeat that experience, it wouldn't let me unless I turn off all the nunneis.

- In my book, a wet road does not justify turning on a 4WD. What more, if you're carrying stuff in the box, you will have much greater traction than when you're driving empty.

Canadian's and Americans living in the Northern States know that as almost everyone was loading sandbags in the boxes or trunks of their RWD cars for the Winter season.

- Flooded roads are different than wet roads. Don't rely totaly on 4WD, it will be of SOME help but not a lot. It's essentially the same as driving on ice. On flooded roads only the tire tread pattern, tire width and YOUR SPEED (!!!) will make a difference. Google and read about tire hydroplaning.

- 2WD with LSD or Locking Diff will in many "stuck" cases have advantage over 4WD with both front and rear open differentials.

- TA, I would like to correct you on this one. I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer that installs LSD in the front. What you described as the wheel hop on dry pavement (when you make a turn I presume) is a normal behaviour of any 4WD vehicle with any type of differential when 4x4 is engaged. The reason for that is not only your R and L front tires travel different distances when you make a turn, but the travel distances of the front and rear tires will also be different with fronts having to travel farther than the rears. T-case in 4WD system will not allow F and R driveshafts to rorate at different speeds so something gotta slip, or hop as you described. LSD has clutches in it to keep the R and L half-axles somewhat locked together, but if the torque exceeds the preset value of LSD (as in making a turn on drive pavement, regardless if you're in 2 or 4 WD), it will allow for a slip. When clutches slip, they wear out and so they would be gone real fast if installed in the front. I know only a few hardcore off-road enthusiasts that install LSD in the front, but then they have locking front hubs so they can "disconnect" the wheels from the drivetrain therefore saving the LSD when not off-roading. Most off-roaders would opt for a locking diff in a front.

Some good info with great animations are here:

http://auto.howstuff...wheel-drive.htm

http://auto.howstuff...ifferential.htm

My opinion (if anyone cares for it), unless I lived out in a country where the possibility to stuck is high, I wouldn't buy a 4wd in Thailand.

My 2007 Vigo 4x4 has LSD rear which you can feel on tight slow turning maneuvers, wheel hop, doing the same maneuvers, in the dry, in 4x4 it is hard to steer as the fronts seem to act as an LSD there. Perhaps your right, l've not looked into it but it feels like an LSD is present.

[transam]

- Using 4 WD on dry pavement isn't recommended even when driving straight as even the slightest difference in side of front and rear tires (usually rears are more worn out than the front) will create big enough binding in driveline to cause damage to the weakest link (normally it's a t-case). The damage may happen very quick (a few days), not quick (a few years) or not at all. There is no guarantee.

- It's OK to use 4 WD on wet or slippery roads or in any road conditions when the traction is reduced. Pretty much anything other than dry pavement. But it's not always necessary.

- With all the nunnies in the modern vehicles (like vehicle sability control and traction control), it's not always possible to loose traction even if you want to.

I still remember years back when I just bought my Camaro (RWD), I was making a turn on intersection and gave it a little more than I had to and I made a doughnut right on the intersection. Glad there were no cars there. It was after the rain by the way. Now, with my 07 Toyota Tundra (they only sell the in NA) even if I wanted to repeat that experience, it wouldn't let me unless I turn off all the nunneis.

- In my book, a wet road does not justify turning on a 4WD. What more, if you're carrying stuff in the box, you will have much greater traction than when you're driving empty.

Canadian's and Americans living in the Northern States know that as almost everyone was loading sandbags in the boxes or trunks of their RWD cars for the Winter season.

- Flooded roads are different than wet roads. Don't rely totaly on 4WD, it will be of SOME help but not a lot. It's essentially the same as driving on ice. On flooded roads only the tire tread pattern, tire width and YOUR SPEED (!!!) will make a difference. Google and read about tire hydroplaning.

- 2WD with LSD or Locking Diff will in many "stuck" cases have advantage over 4WD with both front and rear open differentials.

- TA, I would like to correct you on this one. I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer that installs LSD in the front. What you described as the wheel hop on dry pavement (when you make a turn I presume) is a normal behaviour of any 4WD vehicle with any type of differential when 4x4 is engaged. The reason for that is not only your R and L front tires travel different distances when you make a turn, but the travel distances of the front and rear tires will also be different with fronts having to travel farther than the rears. T-case in 4WD system will not allow F and R driveshafts to rorate at different speeds so something gotta slip, or hop as you described. LSD has clutches in it to keep the R and L half-axles somewhat locked together, but if the torque exceeds the preset value of LSD (as in making a turn on drive pavement, regardless if you're in 2 or 4 WD), it will allow for a slip. When clutches slip, they wear out and so they would be gone real fast if installed in the front. I know only a few hardcore off-road enthusiasts that install LSD in the front, but then they have locking front hubs so they can "disconnect" the wheels from the drivetrain therefore saving the LSD when not off-roading. Most off-roaders would opt for a locking diff in a front.

Some good info with great animations are here:

http://auto.howstuff...wheel-drive.htm

http://auto.howstuff...ifferential.htm

My opinion (if anyone cares for it), unless I lived out in a country where the possibility to stuck is high, I wouldn't buy a 4wd in Thailand.

My 2007 Vigo 4x4 has LSD rear which you can feel on tight slow turning maneuvers, wheel hop, doing the same maneuvers, in the dry, in 4x4 it is hard to steer as the fronts seem to act as an LSD there. Perhaps your right, l've not looked into it but it feels like an LSD is present.

Forgot to add, the front 4WD could actually be ''locked'', as in drag race locked diff. and this could be why you cannot drive on dry black top.

[BSJ]

After getting into a long butt puckering slid the other day coming down 331 in the rain I'll never drive in the rain again in 2WD mode.

Which leads me to ask: What is that milky white liquid crap on the road? My first guess was natural rubber dust or sugar cane dust, which when mixed with water, looks like watery milk.

[Gary A]

Why would you think 4 wheel drive helps in the rain? The engaged 4 wheel drive only gives you more traction and actually downgrades handling. Take a look at the owners manual and you will see that part time 4 wheel drive should never be engaged on paved roads. When a part time 4 wheel drive is engaged, everything is locked together unlike full time 4 wheel drive.

[Shurup]

Why would you think 4 wheel drive helps in the rain? The engaged 4 wheel drive only gives you more traction and actually downgrades handling. Take a look at the owners manual and you will see that part time 4 wheel drive should never be engaged on paved roads. When a part time 4 wheel drive is engaged, everything is locked together unlike full time 4 wheel drive.

Gary, look at my 1st post, I think I made everything clear.

If you read a manual again and pay more attention, you will notice it says dry pavement, not just any pavement. No issues at all using 4WD on wet pavement.

4WD will help in that case as the rear end of a pickup maybe too light and it's possible for the rear wheels to loose traction so in case of 4WD engaged, the front wheels will keep on pulling straight.

[Shurup]

After getting into a long butt puckering slid the other day coming down 331 in the rain I'll never drive in the rain again in 2WD mode.

Which leads me to ask: What is that milky white liquid crap on the road? My first guess was natural rubber dust or sugar cane dust, which when mixed with water, looks like watery milk.

Not sure about the dust, but let me ask you if it was a light dribbling or real heavy raining? With the types of heavy rain we can get here in Thailand, a road may actually be considered "flooded" as the water can't run off the road fast enough so there is a constant layer of water on the road. Google and read "tire hydroplaning". Engaging 4WD will give you a false feeling of safety. Certain tire tread pattern will be better in this situation than the other. At least make sure your tires are not worn out too much and SLOW DOWN when driving in a heavy rain! Beside loosing the traction, the visibility is affected as well so slow down.

[transam]

Part time 4WD is fine to use in the wet, at times l use it to great effect.

[culicine]

After getting into a long butt puckering slid the other day coming down 331 in the rain I'll never drive in the rain again in 2WD mode.

Which leads me to ask: What is that milky white liquid crap on the road? My first guess was natural rubber dust or sugar cane dust, which when mixed with water, looks like watery milk.

Not sure about the dust, but let me ask you if it was a light dribbling or real heavy raining? With the types of heavy rain we can get here in Thailand, a road may actually be considered "flooded" as the water can't run off the road fast enough so there is a constant layer of water on the road. Google and read "tire hydroplaning". Engaging 4WD will give you a false feeling of safety. Certain tire tread pattern will be better in this situation than the other. At least make sure your tires are not worn out too much and SLOW DOWN when driving in a heavy rain! Beside loosing the traction, the visibility is affected as well so slow down.

Will all-terrain tyres deal better with flooded roads (deeper wider tread), than regular road tires? Thought they might help a little with traction when roads have that thin layer of water over them, which you so often get in downpours.

[Shurup]

Not necessarely. A properly designed tire would push the water not just forward but also sideways from under the tire once you hit a puddle.

Something like this

will work better than All Terrain.

Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning can occur when the car drives through puddles of standing water. If the water cannot squirt out from under the tire quickly enough, the tire will lift off the ground and be supported by only the water. Because the affected tire will have almost no traction, cars can easily go out of control when hydroplaning.

Some tires are designed to help reduce the possibility of hydroplaning. These tires have deep grooves running in the same direction as the tread, giving the water an extra channel to escape from under the tire.

[culicine]

Not necessarely. A properly designed tire would push the water not just forward but also sideways from under the tire once you hit a puddle.

Something like this

will work better than All Terrain.

Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning can occur when the car drives through puddles of standing water. If the water cannot squirt out from under the tire quickly enough, the tire will lift off the ground and be supported by only the water. Because the affected tire will have almost no traction, cars can easily go out of control when hydroplaning.

Some tires are designed to help reduce the possibility of hydroplaning. These tires have deep grooves running in the same direction as the tread, giving the water an extra channel to escape from under the tire.

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

[Shurup]

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

Do you mean a tire or a vehicle?

If you mean vehicle, a heavier vehicle will have less chanses to loose traction (due to hydroplaning or any other reason).

If you mean tire, look at the tire thread but keep in mind that one tire maybe better than the other in one situation but a lot worse than others in different situation. A tire with the thread like in my last post will be useless if a road gets a little muddy.

I personally ride All Terrain tires but I don't ride like a Thai. I don't mean I'm slow like a 90 y.o granpa, but living in Canada where it's below zero pretty much half of the year, I learned to drive smart when the road conditions aren't good enough.

[Kwasaki]

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

Last time discussed it was considered to be the Toyota Fortuna 4x4 to be the best value for money and OEM tyres are fine.

I mentioned this before many times when this same question comes up time and time again, it just shows you or to me anyway that the 4x4 auto Vigo is very well engineered and people here can go on all day about when to use it's part time ECT 4x4.

Vigo's are rear wheel driven but my 4W was engaged all the time when wet and on the Maesot road from ' Tak ' in the dry as well because you never knew whether the road was wet around corners.

It's a fact that 4W will give better traction than 2W it can be felt when driven, as it can on FWD vehicles but that's for another thread.

A drivetrain can suffer on designs like these Vigo's 4x4 trucks but I rather be safer and pay out for another drivetrain if necessary.

I must of done 30,000 kilos in 4W and when the car was sold the drivetrain was still not having any problems.

If somebody gets one make sure you use it from time to time dry or not, engage low drives as well and drive in all gears.

[Shurup]

A drivetrain can suffer on designs like these Vigo's 4x4 trucks but I rather be safer and pay out for another drivetrain if necessary.

I must of done 30,000 kilos in 4W and when the car was sold the drivetrain was still not having any problems.

No harm at all to use 4wd anywhere but dry pavement. It's not always necessary and will reduce your fuel mileage, but if you feel safer that way then go for it, nothing wrong with it.

[culicine]

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

Do you mean a tire or a vehicle?

If you mean vehicle, a heavier vehicle will have less chanses to loose traction (due to hydroplaning or any other reason).

If you mean tire, look at the tire thread but keep in mind that one tire maybe better than the other in one situation but a lot worse than others in different situation. A tire with the thread like in my last post will be useless if a road gets a little muddy.

I personally ride All Terrain tires but I don't ride like a Thai. I don't mean I'm slow like a 90 y.o granpa, but living in Canada where it's below zero pretty much half of the year, I learned to drive smart when the road conditions aren't good enough.

My bad, I was referring to tyres not the vehicle. I know there are some good products from yokohama / michelin. So if upgrading wheels, the tires would be changed at this time. I was thinking about bt30/ranger, and ALSO whether 4wd would be necessary, given that, 95% of my driving would be on the paved road. Also the 2wd should be lighter, is cheaper to buy, and should give better fuel economy.

So that brought me to thinking about the tyres as well. If all-terrain work well on the road, have good wear, and are not to noisy, I'd tend to go for them.

[Kwasaki]

My bad, I was referring to tyres not the vehicle. I know there are some good products from yokohama / michelin. So if upgrading wheels, the tires would be changed at this time. I was thinking about bt30/ranger, and ALSO whether 4wd would be necessary, given that, 95% of my driving would be on the paved road. Also the 2wd should be lighter, is cheaper to buy, and should give better fuel economy.

So that brought me to thinking about the tyres as well. If all-terrain work well on the road, have good wear, and are not to noisy, I'd tend to go for them.

Plenty of rims to choose from but I don't mind the OEM ones fitted to a Ranger.

Lower profile will make for a harder ride.

A/T are noisier than OEM.

Hope you don't get into the 5% left.

Edited April 13, 2012 by Kwasaki

[transam]

My bad, I was referring to tyres not the vehicle. I know there are some good products from yokohama / michelin. So if upgrading wheels, the tires would be changed at this time. I was thinking about bt30/ranger, and ALSO whether 4wd would be necessary, given that, 95% of my driving would be on the paved road. Also the 2wd should be lighter, is cheaper to buy, and should give better fuel economy.

So that brought me to thinking about the tyres as well. If all-terrain work well on the road, have good wear, and are not to noisy, I'd tend to go for them.

Plenty of rims to choose from but I don't mind the OEM ones fitted to a Ranger.

Lower profile will make for a harder ride.

A/T are noisier than OEM.

Hope you don't get into the 5% left.

And folk should not forget that many after market rims do not have the strength of factory rims of which much strength is built in to them to do the job the vehicle was designed for.

[Kwasaki]

My bad, I was referring to tyres not the vehicle. I know there are some good products from yokohama / michelin. So if upgrading wheels, the tires would be changed at this time. I was thinking about bt30/ranger, and ALSO whether 4wd would be necessary, given that, 95% of my driving would be on the paved road. Also the 2wd should be lighter, is cheaper to buy, and should give better fuel economy.

So that brought me to thinking about the tyres as well. If all-terrain work well on the road, have good wear, and are not to noisy, I'd tend to go for them.

Plenty of rims to choose from but I don't mind the OEM ones fitted to a Ranger.

Lower profile will make for a harder ride.

A/T are noisier than OEM.

Hope you don't get into the 5% left.

And folk should not forget that many after market rims do not have the strength of factory rims of which much strength is built in to them to do the job the vehicle was designed for.

Lenso are velly good.

[Kwasaki]

A drivetrain can suffer on designs like these Vigo's 4x4 trucks but I rather be safer and pay out for another drivetrain if necessary.

I must of done 30,000 kilos in 4W and when the car was sold the drivetrain was still not having any problems.

No harm at all to use 4wd anywhere but dry pavement. It's not always necessary and will reduce your fuel mileage, but if you feel safer that way then go for it, nothing wrong with it.

Sort of agree to disagree, in the wet the truck 4WD would be taken off if driving in and around a village or town or pulling into a garage.

Would still use 4W on dry roads from Sukhothai to Maesot, a lot of water gets on to the road in places because of the mountains and the odd diesel patch.

Feels more stable in 4W, I guess for me it's because I have been so use to FWD cars an vans for a long time.

Seen many a crash there and back over the years and yes driving too fast, back end goes, they skid off the road or hit the concrete side barriers.

Never drive on pavement usually people using that.

[Big Guns]

Not necessarely. A properly designed tire would push the water not just forward but also sideways from under the tire once you hit a puddle.

Something like this

will work better than All Terrain.

Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning can occur when the car drives through puddles of standing water. If the water cannot squirt out from under the tire quickly enough, the tire will lift off the ground and be supported by only the water. Because the affected tire will have almost no traction, cars can easily go out of control when hydroplaning.

Some tires are designed to help reduce the possibility of hydroplaning. These tires have deep grooves running in the same direction as the tread, giving the water an extra channel to escape from under the tire.

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

I went with Michelin Latitude Cross on my D-Max 4x4 they seem superior in the wet to the Bridgestone and Dunlop I had in the past. They also get a better write up.

[culicine]

My bad, I was referring to tyres not the vehicle. I know there are some good products from yokohama / michelin. So if upgrading wheels, the tires would be changed at this time. I was thinking about bt30/ranger, and ALSO whether 4wd would be necessary, given that, 95% of my driving would be on the paved road. Also the 2wd should be lighter, is cheaper to buy, and should give better fuel economy.

So that brought me to thinking about the tyres as well. If all-terrain work well on the road, have good wear, and are not to noisy, I'd tend to go for them.

Plenty of rims to choose from but I don't mind the OEM ones fitted to a Ranger.

Lower profile will make for a harder ride.

A/T are noisier than OEM.

Hope you don't get into the 5% left.

And folk should not forget that many after market rims do not have the strength of factory rims of which much strength is built in to them to do the job the vehicle was designed for.

Lenso are velly good.

I have lensos and can vouch for them. Wife his a deep pothole at 80 km/h - she actually speeded up hoping to "glide" over it lol. Tore a hole in the tire and put a dent in the rim (not so dented that a new tire couldn't be put on. later on i got the dent hammered then machined out. having said that I'd use stock rims for trashing through the bush and keep the big lensos for the tarmac:)

Anyone know of suitable "over size" tires? How big can one go? I don't mean the rims, but the tires themselves. I've seen some quite large ones on 15/16: rims. I'm assuming tey also stuff up the odometer / speed readings.

[culicine]

Not necessarely. A properly designed tire would push the water not just forward but also sideways from under the tire once you hit a puddle.

Something like this

will work better than All Terrain.

Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning can occur when the car drives through puddles of standing water. If the water cannot squirt out from under the tire quickly enough, the tire will lift off the ground and be supported by only the water. Because the affected tire will have almost no traction, cars can easily go out of control when hydroplaning.

Some tires are designed to help reduce the possibility of hydroplaning. These tires have deep grooves running in the same direction as the tread, giving the water an extra channel to escape from under the tire.

Thanks, so what would be the best available pickup / suv on the market in Thailand? Is there anything significantly better than the OEM bridgestones / dunlops?

I went with Michelin Latitude Cross on my D-Max 4x4 they seem superior in the wet to the Bridgestone and Dunlop I had in the past. They also get a better write up

Ive also read good reviews of the yokohama parada spec-x as a road tire. How much do they cost?

Edited April 13, 2012 by culicine

[Kwasaki]

Lenso are velly good.

I have lensos and can vouch for them. Wife his a deep pothole at 80 km/h - she actually speeded up hoping to "glide" over it lol. Tore a hole in the tire and put a dent in the rim (not so dented that a new tire couldn't be put on. later on i got the dent hammered then machined out. having said that I'd use stock rims for trashing through the bush and keep the big lensos for the tarmac:)

Anyone know of suitable "over size" tires? How big can one go? I don't mean the rims, but the tires themselves. I've seen some quite large ones on 15/16: rims. I'm assuming tey also stuff up the odometer / speed readings.

The answer is as big as you want, I've just fitted these on my truck.

[culicine]

Lenso are velly good.

I have lensos and can vouch for them. Wife his a deep pothole at 80 km/h - she actually speeded up hoping to "glide" over it lol. Tore a hole in the tire and put a dent in the rim (not so dented that a new tire couldn't be put on. later on i got the dent hammered then machined out. having said that I'd use stock rims for trashing through the bush and keep the big lensos for the tarmac:)

Anyone know of suitable "over size" tires? How big can one go? I don't mean the rims, but the tires themselves. I've seen some quite large ones on 15/16: rims. I'm assuming tey also stuff up the odometer / speed readings.

The answer is as big as you want, I've just fitted these on my truck.

Now you're just being silly lol

[BSJ]

With 4WD engaged on a wet road there has to be a lot of benefit from the front wheels pulling. I have 17" Bridgestone's with 80% tread so they should be good at pushing the water out of the way.

I don't think bigger rims & tyres would be any better.

A chunky tread might help.