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Installing A Bucket Flush Toilet


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I want to install a new bucket flush toilet. I dont like tank flush ones as it seems there is always something going wrong with all the moving parts in the tank. The bucket flush works everytime.

I would like to know the proper way to install this type. There are no holes for anchor bolts. Ive installed one before and the only way I could figure out how to line up the toilet with the hole in the floor, is to turn the toilet upside down and make a paper template and then trace around the template on the floor. This worked, but Im wondering if there is a different way.

I cant find a wax rig anywhere, so I just use cement (tile adhesive actually). Im concerned that when I lower the toilet in place, the cement will ooze out making the drain hole smaller.

Ive been thinking maybe I should just buy a tank flush toilet that comes with a flange and wax ring, and just not use the tank, but flush with a bucket.

Suggestions welcome,

Tom

Khon Kaen

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I think you can get straight information on Cotto toilets at a good Home Mart in your area. Usually the owner's adult children speak and understand English. I bought a top rated in Consumer Reports model American Standard toilet for our home (made in China it seems) and it did have the ring, and instructions in Thai and English. In my experience the "after the sales service" was far better from Cotto than American Standard due to our location. Cotto / Toto service techs come from Kohn Kaen for our province, where it was like pulling teeth to get the American Standard repair tech to come from Bangkok, since they only service Isaan once a month. The Surin Home Mart near the Railroad tracks, called Cotto service for me, and the very next day at no charge the Cotto techs fixed what the building contractor staff did wrong with our sink taps.

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I've installed both flush type and "bucket" type toilets. The flush types have all been cotto and were supplied with installation kits including wax rings. I found that extra kits were also available at Home Pro and could be adapted to non flush toilets.. The non flush type were off brand and I used silicon sealant to seal the down pipe. The toilet flange fits into the downpie so you don't really have to worry about constricting it with sealant. I marked the holes for the hold down bolts and drilled and installed concrete anchors. Make sure that you use brass bolts or else they will rust very fast. Also remember the distance from the finished wall to the centerline of the down pie is 30cm, it is less for the non-flush toilets if you want it to fit close to the wall as there is no tank. I ran a bead of silicon aroyund the perimeter of the toilet before I set it to seal it also.

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The wax ring is not necessary if you are putting the toilet on a concrete floor. As long as the toilet outlet is fairly well aligned with the drain and you seal all around the toilet, you won't have any problems. The main requirement is the seal between the toilet base and the floor. If the seal is not perfect, you will get gas odors from the septic tank.

For toilets installed on a wooden floor, you will need a wax ring or another type of good seal between the toilet and drain or the floor will rot.

Edited by Gary A
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