Construction Costs In Issan

[rice555]

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

[Diablo Bob]

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

Rice555

Interesting picture, just looking at the picture it looks to me that the water level never got high enough to reach the house. The fact is that if you have 2.54cm(1") of water on 1 square meter it has a volume of over 25,000 cubic centimeters of water or 6.6 gallons per linear meter. French drains are not typically used to control large volumes of water. When dealing with large volumes of water we typically use channels (Ditches) to redirect the water or culvert systems. Now back to your scenario, assuming your French drain is 100mm perforated pipe AND it was theoretically filled to the maximum it would be capable of keeping up with the 2.54cm of water BUT when you start looking at the variables such as the size of the perforations and amount of perforations and the slope of the pipe in the 1m section you will be lucky if it is 50% filled, so you flood ....... I stand by my doubts.

[Yo Sup]

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

Rice555

Interesting picture, just looking at the picture it looks to me that the water level never got high enough to reach the house. The fact is that if you have 2.54cm(1") of water on 1 square meter it has a volume of over 25,000 cubic centimeters of water or 6.6 gallons per linear meter. French drains are not typically used to control large volumes of water. When dealing with large volumes of water we typically use channels (Ditches) to redirect the water or culvert systems. Now back to your scenario, assuming your French drain is 100mm perforated pipe AND it was theoretically filled to the maximum it would be capable of keeping up with the 2.54cm of water BUT when you start looking at the variables such as the size of the perforations and amount of perforations and the slope of the pipe in the 1m section you will be lucky if it is 50% filled, so you flood ....... I stand by my doubts.

This is not a dick measuring contest. It is a discussion about options on how to build a house. Collective intelligence is greater than singular intelligence, and that's why TV exists.

Try to keep your brain in gear, your thoughts focused on the topic and everything zipped up. Some people...

[rice555]

Hello All, the picture in my post is from our house we are almost finished.

600K so far for a 10M X 10M with a 3M wide porch on the front(water side).

Reinforced slab with block walls, alumin window frames. Locals and family

members did the work. Windows were done by husband/wife team that work

mostly in BKK, but come home some weekends when there's money to be

made. Blocked walls for bed and bath room and rocked wall for a small kitchen

area, an outside kitchen and storage area will be added starting in a few weeks.

A dry non tank/bucket wet floors bathroom with a sit-down toilet. Starting to

rain here in Muang Korat.

The flood picture is from the first flood after we started building. We had another

one a few years latter that was worse, thats when downtown Korat had major

flooding.

The pictures are from before and after both floods. You can see the height of

the side window after more fill and concrete walk ways around the house.

We have about 120M along the river/lake/mudhole, of that only 14M didn't have

from 4" to 16" of water running over the bank. The land the house is built on

is one of the highest in the village, the only ones that didn't flood out were built

raised foundations or posts.

It's hard to put drainage in flat patty land, some of the pics will show that I've

tried to slope the land away from the house. You don't get building permits

without drainage in the blueprints where I built houses and buildings, and then

the building inspectors checked.

rice555

.

[rice555]

Sorry, put the wrong pic in, should be this one, not the

AWAC, but this one. Still raining.

rice555

[rice555]

third time's a ?

rice555

[cdmtdm]

IMO ...start again based on the high water mark and raise it up again to be sure ... otherwise u will be asking for trouble ...goodluck

[Diablo Bob]

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

Rice555

Interesting picture, just looking at the picture it looks to me that the water level never got high enough to reach the house. The fact is that if you have 2.54cm(1") of water on 1 square meter it has a volume of over 25,000 cubic centimeters of water or 6.6 gallons per linear meter. French drains are not typically used to control large volumes of water. When dealing with large volumes of water we typically use channels (Ditches) to redirect the water or culvert systems. Now back to your scenario, assuming your French drain is 100mm perforated pipe AND it was theoretically filled to the maximum it would be capable of keeping up with the 2.54cm of water BUT when you start looking at the variables such as the size of the perforations and amount of perforations and the slope of the pipe in the 1m section you will be lucky if it is 50% filled, so you flood ....... I stand by my doubts.

This is not a dick measuring contest. It is a discussion about options on how to build a house. Collective intelligence is greater than singular intelligence, and that's why TV exists.

Try to keep your brain in gear, your thoughts focused on the topic and everything zipped up. Some people...

I agree, doesn't detract from the fact that unsound advise is still unsound regardless of intentions. The simplist solution to potential flooding is to raise the building pad not depend on a technology developed for a different purpose and not capable of dealing with the perceived threat.

My apologies for getting technical, but as a practicing engineer we have a tendency to explain our reasoning concerning technical issues and expect the same from our collegues when dealing with technical issues.

Back to my coffee now.......

[Yo Sup]

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

Rice555

Interesting picture, just looking at the picture it looks to me that the water level never got high enough to reach the house. The fact is that if you have 2.54cm(1") of water on 1 square meter it has a volume of over 25,000 cubic centimeters of water or 6.6 gallons per linear meter. French drains are not typically used to control large volumes of water. When dealing with large volumes of water we typically use channels (Ditches) to redirect the water or culvert systems. Now back to your scenario, assuming your French drain is 100mm perforated pipe AND it was theoretically filled to the maximum it would be capable of keeping up with the 2.54cm of water BUT when you start looking at the variables such as the size of the perforations and amount of perforations and the slope of the pipe in the 1m section you will be lucky if it is 50% filled, so you flood ....... I stand by my doubts.

This is not a dick measuring contest. It is a discussion about options on how to build a house. Collective intelligence is greater than singular intelligence, and that's why TV exists.

Try to keep your brain in gear, your thoughts focused on the topic and everything zipped up. Some people...

I agree, doesn't detract from the fact that unsound advise is still unsound regardless of intentions. The simplist solution to potential flooding is to raise the building pad not depend on a technology developed for a different purpose and not capable of dealing with the perceived threat.

My apologies for getting technical, but as a practicing engineer we have a tendency to explain our reasoning concerning technical issues and expect the same from our collegues when dealing with technical issues.

Back to my coffee now.......

Is the brand "pedantic" and the type instant?

I simply offered advice that may apply. There are many ways to build and you should know this if you are "a practicing engineer". Tell me please, why are most engineers so rigid in their beliefs? Does anal retention have anything to do with it?

Yes, raise the pad, put in some fill dirt to the point that there is a run off spot. Put french drains next to the house as a bit of added insurance, and you should be okay. Is that enough for you?

Again, some people....

[Diablo Bob]

Rice555

Hello All, French drains, 555555555555555555.

The house was the only thing of 6 Rai not flooded.

rice555

Interesting picture, just looking at the picture it looks to me that the water level never got high enough to reach the house. The fact is that if you have 2.54cm(1") of water on 1 square meter it has a volume of over 25,000 cubic centimeters of water or 6.6 gallons per linear meter. French drains are not typically used to control large volumes of water. When dealing with large volumes of water we typically use channels (Ditches) to redirect the water or culvert systems. Now back to your scenario, assuming your French drain is 100mm perforated pipe AND it was theoretically filled to the maximum it would be capable of keeping up with the 2.54cm of water BUT when you start looking at the variables such as the size of the perforations and amount of perforations and the slope of the pipe in the 1m section you will be lucky if it is 50% filled, so you flood ....... I stand by my doubts.

This is not a dick measuring contest. It is a discussion about options on how to build a house. Collective intelligence is greater than singular intelligence, and that's why TV exists.

Try to keep your brain in gear, your thoughts focused on the topic and everything zipped up. Some people...

I agree, doesn't detract from the fact that unsound advise is still unsound regardless of intentions. The simplist solution to potential flooding is to raise the building pad not depend on a technology developed for a different purpose and not capable of dealing with the perceived threat.

My apologies for getting technical, but as a practicing engineer we have a tendency to explain our reasoning concerning technical issues and expect the same from our collegues when dealing with technical issues.

Back to my coffee now.......

Is the brand "pedantic" and the type instant?

I simply offered advice that may apply. There are many ways to build and you should know this if you are "a practicing engineer". Tell me please, why are most engineers so rigid in their beliefs? Does anal retention have anything to do with it?

Yes, raise the pad, put in some fill dirt to the point that there is a run off spot. Put french drains next to the house as a bit of added insurance, and you should be okay. Is that enough for you?

Again, some people....

It's how we were educated. When working in unsophisticated countries we try to make everything as simple as possible, that way there are less problems in the long run. Never introduce a concept that goes beyond the knowlege base of the work force unless you want a supervision nightmare. As for being anal, well it goes back to the eduction, we are trained to look at everything involved in a project before starting and identifying potential problems and developing solutions prior to the start of any work.

Again, some people.....

[rct99q]

Well it began as an interesting post.....will post pictures and info of the build elsewhere to avoid interrupting the thread!

[BuddhaChile]

How much should I pay the contractor before he starts building? My wife tells me I should pay 50% up front to build a wall. Labour is a flat 75,000 bht. I will buy and supply most of the materials but the contractor has bought the rebar and I paid him for that.

[thehelmsman]

How much should I pay the contractor before he starts building? My wife tells me I should pay 50% up front to build a wall. Labour is a flat 75,000 bht. I will buy and supply most of the materials but the contractor has bought the rebar and I paid him for that.

If you trust him then it's not a huge sum of money to pay up front. When we built the house we paid boss man just enough money monthly to pay workers and himself a decent labor wage and upon completion the balance was paid.

Funny though because in the states I would never think of paying 1/2 first. I wouldn't do it. But here ?? Sometimes we throw away our good sense here.

[cdmtdm]

dont do it , just do not pay them for work not done , if its labour only pay as u go , he has no expenses if u are supplying the materials , it is not the normal thing to do ,to take 50% , pay them daily , weekly , whatever but do not give them a chunk of money upfront ... i think many people like me have learnt the hard way over the years , being stung with this approach ... what i do now is setup a progress payment on work done , work not done no pay .... u will never be exposed if u follow that rule

please dont take this the wrong way , unless your lady has had a lot of const experience , disregard her opinion on this !!! protect yourself in the event the shit hits the fan !!

goodluck

[Bhanta]

Good evening, my name is Frank – a German . I hope, I'm not wrong in this part of Issan-Forum...

I want to build a fireplace in my new house (Phu Ruea) in the middle of the house (1 side and backside for bathroom and sleeping room). Does anyone have experience or even a construction plan? I am very, very grateful for any suggestion. Thank you very much, ขอบคุณมาก . Frank

[puchooay]

I have almost finished a build in Buriram. It is only a small build, 12m x 6 metres. A kitchen, living room, bathroom and bedroom. Nothing flash. I have a metal roof, which is great and saves a few baht too.

Incidentally I used a local builder. There is a guy, from England who speaks great Thai, in Buriram that has set up a small service that offers translations. Basically he can provide the builders and he will be on site, when needed, to translate requirements, problems or any anxieties one may have during the build. Great idea in my opinion. You get the benefit of great local prices and also the piece of mind that the builders totally understand what you want.

PM me if you want the details.

[WilliamCave]

I have almost finished a build in Buriram. It is only a small build, 12m x 6 metres. A kitchen, living room, bathroom and bedroom. Nothing flash. I have a metal roof, which is great and saves a few baht too.

Incidentally I used a local builder. There is a guy, from England who speaks great Thai, in Buriram that has set up a small service that offers translations. Basically he can provide the builders and he will be on site, when needed, to translate requirements, problems or any anxieties one may have during the build. Great idea in my opinion. You get the benefit of great local prices and also the piece of mind that the builders totally understand what you want.

PM me if you want the details.

Really good point having an interpreter so to end a lot of confusion.

I have built 4 times in Thailand and just finished a new office . It was a 2 story shop house.

My interpreter was very valuable.

The cost was about 7500 to 8000 baht a square meter with all new windows plumbing and electrical

It was basically striped to bare concrete.

Do keep in mind I had a relatively good contractor buti still had to be there every day

Do the research for prices on material because it can very on quality.

I installed Hoffen Windows's from home pro very happy with them , my interiour doors are wood, and other things like the elect is all grounded and good plumbing fixtures.

I purchased all the elect fixtures, plumbing fixtures windows and paint.

I used a really good primer and paint ,the reason I supplied these building materials is I wanted a better quality verse contractor supplied.

[Bhanta]

Both many, many thanks for your pieces of advice- very helpful (I also calculate 8ooo Baht/m2 and HomePro is a good tipp).

I wrote not exactly enough. What I'm interested in, is who have experiences in building an indoor wood/coal oven for heat the rooms. In a Thai-speaking forum I found an article but talking within another context. But I can see an oven in the left pic's corner. My plan is to build the house/rooms around the oven, so 3 rooms (living, sleeping, bath) are warm in the month Nov-March. The outside and inside walls will build of Q-con.

[Barin]

We are going to start building our new house in Nongkhai, 2 story, living area 110 sq.m., large terrace on the 2nd floor.

We have been quoted 9,000 Baht / sq.m. (materials + labor).

But we want to separate the cost of materials from the cost of labor because we are going to buy all the construction materials on our own.

Any advice will be appreciated.

By the way, what is the cost of materials estimate and what is the best way to do it?

[Barin]

We are going to start building our new house in Nongkhai, 2 story, living area 110 sq.m., large terrace on the 2nd floor.

We have been quoted 9,000 Baht / sq.m. (materials + labor).

But we want to separate the cost of materials from the cost of labor because we are going to buy all the construction materials on our own.

Any advice will be appreciated.

By the way, what is the cost of materials estimate and what is the best way to do it?

Check out this website: Estimated House Construction Cost in Thailand

My understanding is that this price is for Bangkok.

For a 2 storey cement house the labor only cost in Bangkok is THB 4,500 – 5,000 Baht per square meter according to the above article.

In Nongkhai and Udon Thani the labour only cost is probably 30%-40% lower, that is about THB 3,000 - 3,500 per square meter.

Please correct me if I am wrong...

[cnx37]

A very informative topic!

We are building in Nthn Thailand shortly -

a)FIL - lived there for >20 years - not a builder but is a tradesman. He built his own house & garage. It seemed to be quality & too cheap! He will be the supervisor!

b)we propose to build "modern" - unanimous "family" decision

c)300-350sqm (2 storey - 150-175sqm x 2)

d)"quality materials" - we will buy! Wife & father to coordinate.

e)I have lived in LOS for 12 years

f)"plan" - in process - use - apparently very little

g) no bank finance

h) FIL has interviewed a few builders

QUESTIONS:

a)for a 300-350sqm home(divide by 2 as it is 2 storey), what is a reasonable size plot? Minimum distance from house to side fence?

b)labour only seems a good idea (with appropriate communication)- ie we buy materials

c) timeframe for construction? At present, the estimate is June to Jan - say 7 months! (allowing for rainy season)

d) any "MUST DO"?

e) any "DO NOTS"?

f) garden/lawn - yes - but a lawn (ie green grass)seems "academic" ie very little understanding/interest by "family" - concrete seems popular!

g) NOW THE BIG QUESTION!

Labour only - B3000-10000k per sqm? - "good" quality - BEST GUESS/ESTIMATE? (Nthn Thailand - country town)

Materials - good/VG quality including furniture & appliances - TV B50k - building materials?,furniture & appliances?, electrical & plumbing fittings etc

Over-run estimate - 5%-30%?

Our current estimate (ex-land)is B4.5-B5.5m - your "rough" opinion?

[David48]

^^ cnx37

Mate, I would make a whole new thread in the Building Forum here on Thai Visa

Just copy and paste your post as the Opening Post.

5 Million Baht ... are there many other houses built to that standard in the area ... or will yours be the best?

If it's going to 'be the best' ... then I think your should 'best reconsider'.

Here is the link to the Building Forum ... http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/forum/59-real-estate-housing-house-and-land-ownership/

[cnx37]

A most informative topic &, of course, many opinions/estimates. After testing the water, we am veering off again. We have a plan - of course, builder will adjust/rectify any areas which we are unhappy with. We could have gone the "all up cost" route, labour quote & buy own mats, or as we have mutually decided, pay on a daily basis & buy most of our own materials. I guess that it is a 6th sense deal & "trust" (in others & oneself).

Of course, there is a RISK! LOS is a risk! LIFE is a risk!

We have a rough estimate already - I will keep the group informed.

Anyway, I have been advised to allow for a 20% over-run over the original estimate.

Even in the planning stage, we have made a revision - 20% LESS than the original budget.

Any bets? I have been sleeping WELL! You cannot have too much patience.

B5m - best in area? No, but in the upper quartile. The homes seem to range from about B600k (new B1.5m) to B10m. Land only is about B100k to many, many Bm.

Edited May 29, 2014 by cnx37

[cnx37]

David48

Great idea! Mission completed.

I guess that the greatest unknown is labour costs - per sqm v grand total v daily rate. My "opinion" - there is no one answer!

However, I am told that material costs are a larger factor. Poor v medium v quality? We have elected - medium.

[David48]

David48

Great idea! Mission completed.

I guess that the greatest unknown is labour costs - per sqm v grand total v daily rate. My "opinion" - there is no one answer!

However, I am told that material costs are a larger factor. Poor v medium v quality? We have elected - medium.

Here is the link to his new thread ... http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730141-building-a-home-in-fang-region/

Wish you lick with the project.

[Diablo Bob]

David48

Great idea! Mission completed.

I guess that the greatest unknown is labour costs - per sqm v grand total v daily rate. My "opinion" - there is no one answer!

However, I am told that material costs are a larger factor. Poor v medium v quality? We have elected - medium.

cnx37

If you are going to manage the construction of this house, avoid using a daily rate for labor..... it will eat you alive. Labor is not stupid, they will milk the system anyway they can to make more money. Pay by the day, a 1 day task can take 2-3 days. Work out the tasks as to how long you think it should take to complete.

For instance, you have 25m of trench 1/2 meter deep and 200mm wide. If you pay by the day it might take 2 people all day. If you pay by the lineal meter you will have someone who will dig the trench alone. Someone will do the math and realize he/she can make more money than the daily rate if they hustle and dig faster. You will also find out who is hungry and who is just there for some extra cash.

If you intend on running the show and just hiring labor remember even though you have a cost for labor who will supply the tools? Lumber for forming and bracing? Mixer for mixing concrete, if ready mix is not available? There is a lot more costs than just labor!

You mention that you have elected to go with medium quality for your materials, fair enough, how about the quality of the workmanship? That alone is something to consider. You can spend extra money for a higher quality concrete the put the concrete in crap form work and you end up with a concrete column that might be strong but looks like crap!

Don't skimp on the electrical. Pay for the best quality!!! Posters on this forum might be able to refer a GOOD electrician to do the installation. Oh, for some reason Thai designed houses don't normally have many wall sockets, spend the extra money and install a shit load, avoid extension cords.

Good luck