Bad Cracks In Wall,

[griffinz]

Hi what's the best material to use to fill in cracks builders built me a crock of crapp,is it cement or just filler ,cheers,

[bankruatsteve]

Difficult to advise without photo or some type of dimension and if the cracks due to foundation settling, there may not be a simple fix.

[griffinz]

He used a filler now it's raining all falling out,plus he painted without using primer Jesus,,,

[griffinz]

[Kwasaki]

TOA in a pot Acrylic filler I have found to be good but give it time to harded and settle and then re-butter the cracked area, let it harded and rub down smooth.

It can be hard to access cracks when a house has just been built best to wait 3 months for settlement.

Lets hope it is not a foundation problem.

[kyrre]

There are some spesial cement for this or you may use normal cement and mix in tile adhesive to get a better gluing effect.

[sirineou]

It might sound counter intuitive, but if the crack is small, you need to open it up a little more to allow the caulking material to enter the crack sufficiently , I use a small angle grinder to open the crack

then vacuum or if you have an air compressor, blow the dust out,

Use a concrete filling caulking, or if not available use a paintable silicone caulking

before the caulking dries sprinkle and rub some sand on it to give it a texture similar to the rest of the wall

There are several videos on YouTube, here is one you might find helpful

If The cracks are structural, a two part epoxy might be the solution,

Good Luck

Edited May 27, 2013 by sirineou

[meatboy]

we had plenty of cracks appear not as bad as whats shown but filled with wall putty yet after 9months or more they appear again,so 6months ago the wf.bought a tub of sista d100 premium acrylic

roof sealer[1kilo] around 400bht.it does say excellent adhesion on concrete,ceramic tiles,mortar and wood.so far so good very easy to use.

[IMHO]

If the cracks are appearing on external walls, consider cladding them with Shera/Smartwood/Conwood instead of patching.. The patching never ends otherwise.

If internal walls, TOA make a good poly filler that's available everywhere (white bucket with orange label), but note that if painting these walls the poly filled sections won't have the same texture as cement render so become a different type of blemish now - so if the cracks are bad, consider wallpaper as a longer term solution.

[krisb]

Thats not a crack thats what we in the industry call a grand canyon. What you do is firstly use cement. Add a small amount of sand into the mix. Coarse sand works better. Of course firstly chip any loose stuff out and wet with water. You also can use carpenters glue, add water to make it runny then paint the affected area, this creates an excellant surface to help with bonding(trade secret) Then finish off with a plaster coat. sand back till smooth then paint. Krisb,.20Plus years as a plasterer.

Edited June 2, 2013 by krisb

[meatboy]

we had plenty of cracks appear not as bad as whats shown but filled with wall putty yet after 9months or more they appear again,so 6months ago the wf.bought a tub of sista d100 premium acrylic

roof sealer[1kilo] around 400bht.it does say excellent adhesion on concrete,ceramic tiles,mortar and wood.so far so good very easy to use.

sorry vista d100x 1kilo 130bht,i was quoting 3kilo's.

[Pib]

The Sista sealants are good stuff...D100 for roof cracks/water proofing....D150 for wall cracks/water proofing. I've used both products over the past few years....good stuff. In fact I used some D100 today to leak proof the seam/small gap between a new vinyl roof and the wall over part of my outdoor kitchen area. The installer of the roof had used silicone on the seam (Thai's sure love their silicone), but after only a week the silicone was starting to not stick to the painted wall...sticking just fine to the vinyl roof but not the painted concrete wall...I knew this would happen based on past experience. A few days ago when it rain it leaked in this area. Just this afternoon I applied the white D100 to the seam...it cures to a good extent within about 30 minutes...it's raining cat and dogs as I write this...no leaks at this seam...and there won't be even weeks...months...or probably years from now based on my experience with D100/D150 products as they will remain somewhat flexible and have excellent adhesion.

[utalkin2me]

He used a filler now it's raining all falling out,plus he painted without using primer Jesus,,,

This is called job security here. They want to ensure themselves or their buddies will be back soon to do another quarter-ass job.

[meatboy]

The Sista sealants are good stuff...D100 for roof cracks/water proofing....D150 for wall cracks/water proofing. I've used both products over the past few years....good stuff. In fact I used some D100 today to leak proof the seam/small gap between a new vinyl roof and the wall over part of my outdoor kitchen area. The installer of the roof had used silicone on the seam (Thai's sure love their silicone), but after only a week the silicone was starting to not stick to the painted wall...sticking just fine to the vinyl roof but not the painted concrete wall...I knew this would happen based on past experience. A few days ago when it rain it leaked in this area. Just this afternoon I applied the white D100 to the seam...it cures to a good extent within about 30 minutes...it's raining cat and dogs as I write this...no leaks at this seam...and there won't be even weeks...months...or probably years from now based on my experience with D100/D150 products as they will remain somewhat flexible and have excellent adhesion.

we have a large tiled pond[15ft x 10ft] and it started leaking water found the cracks used d100 job done.

[Rust Never Sleeps]

There are possibly three major reasons for cracking walls,

1. The sub-floor construction has not been built to proper depths.

2. The soil is water logged.

3. The soil is dehydrated.

In many parts of Thailand, properties are built on land fill and the sub- floor construction is only dug to this depth. This form of construction is inadequate because landfill will contract when dry and expand when wet. To counter contraction and expansion one must go to depths in the natural soil where the clay is consistently moist or you hit bedrock.

To build the sub-floor to adequate depths will require a soil testing and extra work (extra costs).

To fill the gaps will generally only exacebrate the problem by not allowing the building to go to its original position when soil conditions change.

The only true remedy to fix the problem in existing buildings is to underpin the sub-floor construction, ie- dig under the foundation to a suitable soil elasticity and add concrete and re-level the building by using jacks.

In my opinion most domestic sub-floor construction is inadequate in Thailand (and many western countries).

i will be building a house in two years and will using commercial building practices, ie-pile driving or screw piling or micro piling,(but at extra cost but piece of mind)

[nige]

YouTube mate

[Rust Never Sleeps]

Sorry. Peace of mind

[Rust Never Sleeps]

micro piling-www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGulgsPsP8ncA

screw piling-www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyaiXEmSnrl

pile driving-www.youtube.com/watch/v=VkXTLAxGkxA

I have yet to see micro piling or screw piling used in Thailand but have seen many examples of pile driving used here and to date I am satisfied with the results I have seen.