Finding Shops That Sell Chain Lube And Cleaner

[yankee99]

wd40 to clean and can of chain lube from true value/ ace on sukumvit

[JoePai]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

Apparently they do a great job. Do you order from the internet or is some shop stocking them?

I'd guess it would be difficult or impossible to source a kit locally- they run about 5K for the basic set-up, but then there's shipping, etc.

I have the Tutoro, a great bit of kit. Bought via internet no probem direct from them - they helped with all of my silly questions !

http://www.tutorochainoiler.com/

[DiNiro]

Use WD40 with a toothbrush and some paper towels to clean it up. Pieces of cardboard come in handy to protect areas I don't want to spray.

Found some white grease in a spray can at Tesco for the lube.

(Also, saw some lube and chain cleaner at the Honda Big Wing shop.)

Edited May 30, 2013 by DiNiro

[Wong!]

WD-40 type oil is as good as any chain cleaner.

Hell no if it's an "O" ring chain! The WD40 strips the grease out from behind the "O" rings and accelerates wear.

Do it proberly and remove the chain and clean the chain with kerosene.

And outboard motor grease is the best chain lube in my experience.

CropperCapture28.jpg

Sorry, but you are talking rubbish.

[KRS1]

Use WD40 with a toothbrush and some paper towels to clean it up. Pieces of cardboard come in handy to protect areas I don't want to spray.

Found some white grease in a spray can at Tesco for the lube.

(Also, saw some lube and chain cleaner at the Honda Big Wing shop.)

instead of cardboard try bending the straw back at the last half inch until it creases.

itll slow it down and shoot downwards.

Edited May 30, 2013 by KRS1

[BSJ]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

Apparently they do a great job. Do you order from the internet or is some shop stocking them?

I'd guess it would be difficult or impossible to source a kit locally- they run about 5K for the basic set-up, but then there's shipping, etc.

I have the Tutoro, a great bit of kit. Bought via internet no probem direct from them - they helped with all of my silly questions !

http://www.tutorochainoiler.com/

I had a look at that. Would rather pay more for a Scott oiler.

[BSJ]

WD-40 type oil is as good as any chain cleaner.

Hell no if it's an "O" ring chain! The WD40 strips the grease out from behind the "O" rings and accelerates wear.

Do it proberly and remove the chain and clean the chain with kerosene.

And outboard motor grease is the best chain lube in my experience.

CropperCapture28.jpg

Sorry, but you are talking rubbish.

And which part do you consider to be rubbish?

The fact I like to clean and inspect my chain thoroughly doesn't please you? At the same time I can check the sprockets and look for loose nuts and bolts to keep my ride trouble free. Well if that's rubbish that's fine, I will call it rubbish too!

Or is it the fact I don't use WD40 on an "O" ring chain? Have a look at what it says on the container.....it's penetrating oil! One of the active ingredient's is solvent.

[commande]

For your information, all modern chains of quality, quality being defined as at minimum manufacture distributed or brand name chains, not some cheap knockoff from China for 10 dollars off the corner street somewhere, use Buna-N (Nitrile) for the O-Rings. WD40 specifically won't hurt Nitrile so you don't have to worry about that anymore and haven't had to for years, about 10-12 years to be somewhat precise. Most of the bike manufactures haven't even taken this procedure out of their manuals, there is no reason to because kerosene doesn't hurt Nitrile either but the kerosene method is not required anymore, Take your bike to a performance shop and they will not clean your chain this way unless they are clueless.

Now washing the oil out from behind the O-rings, no issue and it's a good thing why because dirt works it's way into that area to, WD40 or any other spray cleaner gets that stuff out of there then you use a liquid spray can of chain oil of your preference to lube the chain, it is designed to flow back and behind the O-rings which is why you spray the inside of the chain on top of the O-Rings one side at a time which makes two rotations of the wheel; wipe off overspray for that clean looking finish. The oil will then somewhat harden so that it doesn't sling out when driven BUT importantly this is why when you lube your chain you should let the bike sit about hour before you ride it; some people suggest over night but not required because the liquefying agent in the spray oil evaporates very quickly.

Lastly all this should be done when the chain is warm which only takes about 5 minutes driving up the street and back, helps get all the dirt and old oil out and helps the new oil get into the o-rings.

Your method works fine I'm sure but it is the old way of doing it and honestly reminds me of the way they used to clean and pack bearings for cars. In the end you don't mind taking the time and effort no worries, others here including myself will do it the faster more modern way.

Edited June 1, 2013 by commande

[Salapoo]

Who really knows for sure though as there are no real statistics measuring chain life when cleaned and lubed using one method or the other.

Actually there are quite a lot.

Link.

Personally I don the latex gloves, wipe everything with kerosene getting into all the nooks and cranies.

Let dry for a few hours. Ride for 10 mins or so. Wipe quickly and apply veloil lube. Then don the latex gloves again and smear bearing grease along the chain slider.

[Salapoo]

Part Two of that o-ring study.

Link

[commande]

Part Two of that o-ring study.

Link

Excellent study but all it proves is long term constant exposure ratings of chemical cleaning agent is hurtful to include using WD40, I noticed that you didn't include how short term exposure study of 24 hours which showed ZERO IMPACT TO EXPOSURE but you didn't include it here. Also all the chemicals under long term exposure had damage done.

Long term exposure to a solvent is bad, even the Kerosene showed degradation but I am not suggesting that you soak your chain in WD40 for 24 hours or even 30 minutes or for that matter any other solvent for hours at a time. Interestingly, he did a tensile strength test on O-rings that don't even carry a load, the metal chain carries the load so what was the point, maybe to prove degradation of the O-ring, again what's the point.I'm pretty sure the results would have been different for all test if he only exposed the O-rings for 5 minutes which is enough time to clean them (more than enough), let dry or dried by hand, yes solvents evaporate in a short amount of time, then used a chain oil to lubricate the O-rings, then finally took his measurements either immediately or over time such as his 24 hour and 15 day internal.

This is what would really happen if you clean your chain with a chemical agent and then dry it off and finally lubricate it with chain oil, not what he did. Short term duration of exposure. By the way the chain slider is not supposed to have lubricant on it, if it does it picks up dirt and dust and acts like sandpaper on the chain every time it comes in contact with it. Supposed to be clean.

It was a good try but no sorry, long term exposure rating isn't the point here unless all your doing is spraying your chain with solvent, this is not what I ever recommended to do and never would... Excellent home grown study, hats off to you for finding it and to the guy for taking so much time to put it together unfortunately doesn't prove anything because he didn't oil the O-rings after cleaning them with solvent for a very short exposure time which is real world, not 24 hours or 15 days exposure time soaking in a daily medicine container.

Edited June 1, 2013 by commande

[Salapoo]

^ sorry, you seem to think that I have some sort of agenda to push. People who feel wd40 is not good for o ring chains seem to grate you up some what. Sorry for your perculiar stance.

Btw I'd often use it to wipe the chain clean if out of kerosene, I don't think anyone believes that a quick wipe with it now and again is going to lead to damage, especially with someone like me who changes their chain and sproket, and everything else, well before they need it.

Edited June 1, 2013 by Salapoo

[RubberSideDown]

Here's a good link from WebBikeWorld on chain maintenence- personally I agree with commande and I use WD-40, but there are other ways to go- I prefer a less labor-intensive method unless there is conclusive evidence that I'm doing something detrimental to my chain by saving some time.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

[commande]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

I have a couple friends back in the USA that think they are great and wouldn't have any other solution, they claim that they don't even have to clean their chains because of the fresh oil always lubricating the chain from the unit.. Don't think they sell them in Thailand but you can of course order them in.

[RubberSideDown]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

I have a couple friends back in the USA that think they are great and wouldn't have any other solution, they claim that they don't even have to clean their chains because of the fresh oil always lubricating the chain from the unit.. Don't think they sell them in Thailand but you can of course order them in.

I have some friends coming down in August and I might order one- I need to make sure I can get some proper chain lube that will work with it first- the install is pretty easy.

[BSJ]

I use WD40 on my push bike chain.......

[Garry]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

I have a couple friends back in the USA that think they are great and wouldn't have any other solution, they claim that they don't even have to clean their chains because of the fresh oil always lubricating the chain from the unit.. Don't think they sell them in Thailand but you can of course order them in.

I have some friends coming down in August and I might order one- I need to make sure I can get some proper chain lube that will work with it first- the install is pretty easy.

A buddy of mine (retired morocycle mechanic), said that the systems were a messy pain in the arse. I think more so for him as a mechanic from perhaps owners who didn't clean their bikes regualr or have the system setup to feed efficiently. I reckon the electronic system would be best, once you had it tuned in

[RubberSideDown]

I need to research their systems- I saw their electronic set-up, and no doubt it's better than the vacuum-activated one- in the end it's probably something I don't really need, but it just seems like a cool add-on, and I've been hearing about them for years.

[Salapoo]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

I have a couple friends back in the USA that think they are great and wouldn't have any other solution, they claim that they don't even have to clean their chains because of the fresh oil always lubricating the chain from the unit.. Don't think they sell them in Thailand but you can of course order them in.

I saw some Thai or Indian bloke make his own one DIY on youtube a few years ago.

[BSJ]

Is anyone using a Scottoiler for their chain? I've considered getting one, but I'm not sure if I could keep it properly filled in Thailand.

I have a couple friends back in the USA that think they are great and wouldn't have any other solution, they claim that they don't even have to clean their chains because of the fresh oil always lubricating the chain from the unit.. Don't think they sell them in Thailand but you can of course order them in.

I saw some Thai or Indian bloke make his own one DIY on youtube a few years ago.

It couldn't be too hard! Maybe there's a business opportunity for some retired expat with time on his hands.

[KRS1]

I dont see why these systems have to be lubricating all the time...It takes like 10 seconds to spin the tire by hand while applying chain lube.

Heres an idea, 2 tanks...main tank and secondary reservoir tank...valve at first tank, fills secondary reservoir, turn valve by hand until secondary is full (10-15 seconds)...Then just open valve on secondary and let it drip feed the chain....when secondary is empty you dont have to worry about any messy overlubing.

Or just a bottle with chain lube in it, flip it upside down when you need lube, then flip it back.

Once every 125 kilos should be good.

[BSJ]

Using air pressure to force a little oil through an orifice would be good. All you need is a little rubber bulb up under the fuel tank to squeeze ever now and then. You would need to test it (time/volume) off the bike to make sure your orifice is the right size. A dollars worth of tubing a few cable ties, a small plastic tank and a rubber bulb. $2 worth...unless you have to buy a bicycle horn to get a bulb! And a used IV dripper maybe used for regulating.

[KRS1]

Using air pressure to force a little oil through an orifice would be good. All you need is a little rubber bulb up under the fuel tank to squeeze ever now and then. You would need to test it (time/volume) off the bike to make sure your orifice is the right size. A dollars worth of tubing a few cable ties, a small plastic tank and a rubber bulb. $2 worth...unless you have to buy a bicycle horn to get a bulb! And a used IV dripper maybe used for regulating.

CropperCapture39.jpg

CropperCapture41.jpg

Really like the IV drip tube, closest thing ive been able to think of is a water bottle with a squeeze spout. Wondering about the viscosity of the lube/oil also.

Like the horn idea too, but the rubber ball would have to reinflate, but maybe that can be taken care of with a pinhole ?

Edited June 4, 2013 by KRS1

[BSJ]

Using air pressure to force a little oil through an orifice would be good. All you need is a little rubber bulb up under the fuel tank to squeeze ever now and then. You would need to test it (time/volume) off the bike to make sure your orifice is the right size. A dollars worth of tubing a few cable ties, a small plastic tank and a rubber bulb. $2 worth...unless you have to buy a bicycle horn to get a bulb! And a used IV dripper maybe used for regulating.

CropperCapture39.jpg

CropperCapture41.jpg

Really like the IV drip tube, closest thing ive been able to think of is a water bottle with a squeeze spout. Wondering about the viscosity of the lube/oil also.

Like the horn idea too, but the rubber ball would have to reinflate, but maybe that can be taken care of with a pinhole ?

With the viscosity of mineral oil being different to Ringer's lactate solution (or Hartmann's as the Brit's call it) it would require some static testing to adjust the flow rate. It would be an interesting exercise for someone with time to spare.

[VocalNeal]

Just thought I would add that I have a couple of Loobman, one shot at a time. manual lubrication units.

Press the button and a measured amount of oil is released slowly onto both sides of the sprocket as you ride. Centrifugal force does the rest.

PM if interested.

[BSJ]

Just thought I would add that I have a couple of Loobman, one shot at a time. manual lubrication units.

Press the button and a measured amount of oil is released slowly onto both sides of the sprocket as you ride. Centrifugal force does the rest.

PM if interested.

You should post the price here. If it's fair word will get around.

[VocalNeal]

BSJ

I have added a classified ad.

1000B each plus about 50B for postage.

They are not bike specific and a little technical skill is an advantage to be able to fit them to the bike.

Edited June 17, 2013 by VocalNeal

[Beardog]

BSJ

I have added a classified ad.

1000B each plus about 50B for postage.

They are not bike specific and a little technical skill is an advantage to be able to fit them to the bike.

Thats not to bad a price at all considering it is $8.00- $12.00 or the baht equivalent for 1 can of chain lube.

How bad is the slingage?

[BSJ]

BSJ

I have added a classified ad.

1000B each plus about 50B for postage.

They are not bike specific and a little technical skill is an advantage to be able to fit them to the bike.

Thats not to bad a price at all considering it is $8.00- $12.00 or the baht equivalent for 1 can of chain lube.

How bad is the slingage?

How bad is the slingage? How often will you be pressing the button?

[KRS1]

Good deal, beats running around trying to make one !

If you were to spray an entire can of chain lube in the canister do you think the viscosity of the chain lube would be able to run through the tube?

Regular transmission fluid/motor oil probably wouldnt have any problem.