Perimeter Wall - Cost's Please

[ChiangMai2]

Hi, I am looking at some land and would like to know current costs for walls, 2m high, basic block ( breeze block ( i think )) either rendered or just left plain. If anyone can tell me an approximate cost per running metre I'd be most grateful. All the land plots I am looking at are relatively flat and dry orchard land between 3 and 7 rai, I don' t think the post foundations need to be too deep but would like to hear any advice from people that know.

Kind regards CM2

[XINLOI]

Hi, CM2

I was installing fencing until the rains came. A block fence, with little or no foundation will cost you 500 baht for each section, post to post or about 3m. This is labor only. Blocks, rebar, cement, mortar and forms (rented) vary with local areas and availability. The problem with these types of fencing is that they wash out easily and fall over. Ever seen a fence here that wasn't leaning or fallen over? My piece of land is 2 rai and a block fence would have cost well over 500K bht to build.

What I settled for was a premade post and panel system that is engineered and not done like you see everywhere. To do the same job via this method, the total cost for materials is 117 K and the company that makes them, delivers and installs the posts and panels for you. You need a small crew of guys to drill the holes and it must be dug well. The posts must be all vertical and not twisted. The panels come 3M max length and you can choose how high you want to go. The panels are about 50 CM wide and slide between the posts. A crane is needed for both operations and when done right looks beter than anyblock wall, I have seen anywhere. Hope this helps you a bit.

[JaiLai]

Hi, CM2

I was installing fencing until the rains came. A block fence, with little or no foundation will cost you 500 baht for each section, post to post or about 3m. This is labor only. Blocks, rebar, cement, mortar and forms (rented) vary with local areas and availability. The problem with these types of fencing is that they wash out easily and fall over. Ever seen a fence here that wasn't leaning or fallen over? My piece of land is 2 rai and a block fence would have cost well over 500K bht to build.

What I settled for was a premade post and panel system that is engineered and not done like you see everywhere. To do the same job via this method, the total cost for materials is 117 K and the company that makes them, delivers and installs the posts and panels for you. You need a small crew of guys to drill the holes and it must be dug well. The posts must be all vertical and not twisted. The panels come 3M max length and you can choose how high you want to go. The panels are about 50 CM wide and slide between the posts. A crane is needed for both operations and when done right looks beter than anyblock wall, I have seen anywhere. Hope this helps you a bit.

Good info, thanks.

I have about 3 Rai and as you say the cost of bricks and mortar is not realistic.

I'd be interested to see any photo's you have of what you've done?

What's your location in thailand?

Thanks.

[jonnyscot]

I'd also be interested to see some pics of this, the wife did mention a type of fence similar to your description but I wasn't exactly sure what she meant,, we'll be putting up a fence soon around a part of the land,, all in all around 150 mtr of fencing

[rickb]

Whether you build a fence using columns, foundations, blocks and render, or you use the premade post and panel system referred to above, neither will be good for the long term if you don't use good, strong footers. Fences that you see falling down are good examples of fences that have no or poor footings. Therefore, there is nothing to hold the fence upright. Another issue is where the dirt on either side of the fence is not at the same level. If you have a situation like this, you will likely need a knee bracing system incorporated into the design. The problem I see with many fences is that people try to skimp and save on a structure that is quite bulky and heavy. Consequently, the structure is unstable and leans or falls over in time. The fence I built around my house was built using columns every 2 1/2 meters apart. The columns were built on large reinforced concrete footers. A 20cm x 30 cm reinforced concrete foundation was laid along the ground, between each column and tied into the columns' rebar. On top of the foundation and tied into the columns were standard narrow cinder blocks. On top of the final row of blocks was installed a reinforced concrete sill (or maybe it's called a lentil ???). The blocks were rendered on both sides. My fence is now seven years old and hasn't budged an inch yet, and I don't expect it to move at all. The labor alone on my fence was THB 700 per meter length.

[keeniau96]

The wall construction described by Xenloi is being used here on Phuket as perimeter wall for the Loch Palms golf course. I live on hillside just above the wall which extends for several kilometers around the course. Saw the construction, just as described above. the vertical pillars have slots and the horizontal prefab slabs look about 3 m long, 20cm high and about 3 cm thick, apparently pre-stressed construction. Looks very good when finished, no paint needed. Loch Palms is owned by MBK company so you can be sure that it was vetted quite a bit before selection.

A few days ago I noted that one of the columns apparently failed with consequent flopping of the side panels. Expect it was an inadequate hole+foundation for that column.

[JaiLai]

Whether you build a fence using columns, foundations, blocks and render, or you use the premade post and panel system referred to above, neither will be good for the long term if you don't use good, strong footers. Fences that you see falling down are good examples of fences that have no or poor footings. Therefore, there is nothing to hold the fence upright. Another issue is where the dirt on either side of the fence is not at the same level. If you have a situation like this, you will likely need a knee bracing system incorporated into the design. The problem I see with many fences is that people try to skimp and save on a structure that is quite bulky and heavy. Consequently, the structure is unstable and leans or falls over in time. The fence I built around my house was built using columns every 2 1/2 meters apart. The columns were built on large reinforced concrete footers. A 20cm x 30 cm reinforced concrete foundation was laid along the ground, between each column and tied into the columns' rebar. On top of the foundation and tied into the columns were standard narrow cinder blocks. On top of the final row of blocks was installed a reinforced concrete sill (or maybe it's called a lentil ???). The blocks were rendered on both sides. My fence is now seven years old and hasn't budged an inch yet, and I don't expect it to move at all. The labor alone on my fence was THB 700 per meter length.

Do you have any pictures?

[FACTOR]

I'd love to see some pics too.

[dinga]

Whether you build a fence using columns, foundations, blocks and render, or you use the premade post and panel system referred to above, neither will be good for the long term if you don't use good, strong footers. Fences that you see falling down are good examples of fences that have no or poor footings. Therefore, there is nothing to hold the fence upright. Another issue is where the dirt on either side of the fence is not at the same level. If you have a situation like this, you will likely need a knee bracing system incorporated into the design. The problem I see with many fences is that people try to skimp and save on a structure that is quite bulky and heavy. Consequently, the structure is unstable and leans or falls over in time. The fence I built around my house was built using columns every 2 1/2 meters apart. The columns were built on large reinforced concrete footers. A 20cm x 30 cm reinforced concrete foundation was laid along the ground, between each column and tied into the columns' rebar. On top of the foundation and tied into the columns were standard narrow cinder blocks. On top of the final row of blocks was installed a reinforced concrete sill (or maybe it's called a lentil ???). The blocks were rendered on both sides. My fence is now seven years old and hasn't budged an inch yet, and I don't expect it to move at all. The labor alone on my fence was THB 700 per meter length.

Am looking for current costs per metre for a standard 2m high perimeter wall, on 30cm footings. Have been quoted 1,200 baht for labour only, for a 39 m wall in Rayong. Given the previous posts, this seems expensive.

Appreciate advice of recent actual costs per metre for (a) labour; ( materials

Tks

[wayned]

Google "precast concrete fencing". The horizontal panels fit into groves cut into the vertical poles. There are all kinds of designs available, not cheap but looks good.

[dinga]

Google "precast concrete fencing". The horizontal panels fit into groves cut into the vertical poles. There are all kinds of designs available, not cheap but looks good.

Thanks - but am interested in the costs of the standard 2 metre block wall. Anyone recently built one?

Edited May 20, 2014 by dinga

[JaiLai]

Google "precast concrete fencing". The horizontal panels fit into groves cut into the vertical poles. There are all kinds of designs available, not cheap but looks good.

Thanks - but am interested in the costs of the standard 2 metre block wall. Anyone recently built one?

Had my front wall done about 4 months ago, 40 meters, little over 2 meters high, this included a 5 meter entrance with roof.

From what I recall footings were a bit deeper than what you mention, I want to say 0.8m deep, posts are 2.5m apart.

Total cost about 100k in central Thailand, I bought my own materials.

Job took about 2 months, weather / unreliable workers / normal Thai holidays every other day!

[sirineou]

I did my fence about two years ago. 2 meters high, 117 linear meters in Khon Kaen

It cost me ฿500 only labor per Meter, by the time all was said and done it cost me about ฿ 1500 per Linear Meter

Footings 1m deep

Ground Beam on top of footings

Breeze Block between column rebar

Front only 1 M high

sides and back 2m high

Front columns and top beam forms

Front columns between breeze block and top beam

metal rails in front for pickets

Pickets

Forms and columns for 2M high section

Top Beam , notice floral tile in center of wall for detail

Finished Wall

Gate

[scooterboy]

Nice wall - great pics!

Wall price - OUCH!

Cheers & thanks for the pics

[dinga]

I did my fence about two years ago. 2 meters high, 117 linear meters in Khon Kaen

It cost me ฿500 only labor per Meter, by the time all was said and done it cost me about ฿ 1500 per Linear Meter

TOP SHELF, sirineou. Thanks very much for the detail and the photos.

Have got a 2nd quote (500 baht/metre, labour only) from another local guy. Have arranged to meet him next week to confirm arrangements.

Tks again

[StefanBBK]

Way to go Sirineou! Great quality. Price is OK for what you got.

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[sirineou]

Two ways to build a fence wall

one is to first pour the footings, foundation beam. and columns, then fill in between the columns with breeze block. most Thai builders like to do it this way because that's what they are used to from building homes.

the second is the way I did it, pour footings and foundation beam first, with column rebar sticking up, then build the wall sections with breeze block, then pour the columns. This allows you to do two things

One is you can connect all sections of breeze block with rebar, that goes through the column rebar.

the rebar get's attached to the breeze-block with the mortar, and when you pour the column it locks the connecting rebar

and Two , when you pour the column you also pour around the block a couple of inches further locking the wall sections together.

on the 2M sections I wanted the rebar stick a couple of meters above the wall, they did not understand why I wanted that , and did it only 1m above

The reason was that I wanted to bend the rebar , two rebars one way and two rebars the other way so that they met and were welded together forming the bottom row ot the Top-Beam steel and tying the columns together. The way they did it also worked but I had to put a small section of rebar in between to join them together.

Things to watch out for:

If they are mixing their own concrete, that they use the right proportion of cement, aggregate and sand . (1-2-3) and not too much of water.

​and that they vibrate the beams and columns. (vibrating will prevent honeycombing, and will remove air baubles making a much stronger concrete)

If it is hot, and the breeze block is bone dry, wet the block before use, otherwise it will suck the water out of the mortar and result in a weak joint.

Make sure the rebar is inside the pure and is not touching the ground, Rebar to close to the side of the form will not have adequate concrete coverage, will eventually rust , expand and brake the concrete. same if it is touching the ground.

Dont let them use broken breeze block or brick for spacers to keep the rebar of the ground, both items are water permeable, and moisture will eventually find it's way to the rebar. either make spacers with concrete or hung the rebar with tie-wire from the pices of wood they will use to keep the form the right width.

In the front where you need to attach items such as gate anchors, or picket rails, let a piece of rebar stick out

it makes it easy to weld and attach things to the fence,

Just make sure the rebar sticking out is properly primed and painted so that it does not rust.

any way , that all the advise I can think of right now, from having spend a lifetime in the High-rise construction industry as a concrete form specialist.

And don't get to upset when the workers don't show up because, the were doing work at the local Wat, some one died in village and had to go to funeral, etc etc. it is all par for the course in Thailand

Good Luck