Need help to take good pictures of 10 baht coins.

[FarangFB]

I got a full collection of 10 baht coins and I intend to take a good photo of each coin.

My current setup:

Canon EOS 600D

Macro Lens 100mm f/2.8

430EX II Flash unit

Tripod

One small studio tent (40x40x40cm)

Two 24w fluorescent daylight light bulbs

After searching online I found out that taking photos of coins is quite tricky, because they're too reflexive.

I got some "ok" pictures, but most of them don't look shiny enough, and in most cases the photos also show the micro flaws (small spots, cuts, risks) a bit too much, specially when I take a closer look.

An example of the detail flaws that I'd like to "not be" in the photo (the coin was pratically perfect on naked eye):

Here are the 2 types of photo I got:

Using the flash unit in a certain non-direct angle, with the help of the sun

No flash, inside my room, only artificial light

This is the kind of picture I'm trying to get (not my picture)

I'd appreciate any help on the subject.

[Chao Lao Beach]

I don't want to sound rude, but do you have a new shinny coin? You can get new ones from banks and I am sure it is not hard to acid treat them.

Research Focus Stacking. That is what you need to learn. You can stack in Photoshop. YouTube is a good start.

A 600D is more than capable and you have a great lens. Is it the IS version? The best Focus stacker I have seen does 100% hand held. No rails, nothing !!!!

I can't remember if he has public tutorials, but ask him where to get more info, he is very friendly.

Image, Dom his site here, his G+ in the link above. Below was shot hand held.

It is a blade of grass.

Edited July 21, 2013 by Chao Lao Beach

[FarangFB]

I don't want to sound rude, but do you have a new shinny coin? You can get new ones from banks and I am sure it is not hard to acid treat them.

Research Focus Stacking. That is what you need to learn. You can stack in Photoshop. YouTube is a good start.

A 600D is more than capable and you have a great lens. Is it the IS version? The best Focus stacker I have seen does 100% hand held. No rails, nothing !!!!

I can't remember if he has public tutorials, but ask him where to get more info, he is very friendly.

Image, Dom his site here, his G+ in the link above. Below was shot hand held.

It is a blade of grass.

Most of my coins (not the one in the photo) are rare finds, special commemorative editions of the 10 baht coin. Some of them are in pristine condition and some have seen better days.

I am thankful for your advice. However, I do not understand how focus stacking could help me. I am not having a focus issue here, a coin is practically flat and as long as I shoot straight it will be totally in focus (unlike an insect or a plant).

What I'm looking for is a way to make the coin look shinier and cleaner, like the Singaporean dollar I found on google and posted above.

Edited July 21, 2013 by FarangFB

[Tywais]

You might want to consider a photography light box. This gives you very good, even control of the light including diffusion. Used for product photography including jewelry or coins. You can build your own. One example below.

[FarangFB]

You might want to consider a photography light box. This gives you very good, even control of the light including diffusion. Used for product photography including jewelry or coins. You can build your own. One example below.

My setup is, in essence, not much different from the video you linked.

It's a portable studio tent (diffusive walls) with 1 bulb on each side.

Any ideas of changes I could make?

I will post a picture next time I assemble the whole thing, but it's similar to this one:

[DiNiro]

If lit from the side angle you are raking the light across the subject, highlighting the surface flaws.

You may want to try a ring light?

Experiment.

How about a shiny reflector in front of the coin? Even some foil placed at the right angle should help.

[Tywais]

Numismatic Photography

[DiNiro]

The sample shot you like, appears to be a mint condition, uncirculated/proof coin.

You can't achieve that appearance with a circulated old coin.

Personally, I like to see the scratches etc. you had in your attempt.

SAMPLE

Edited July 22, 2013 by DiNiro

[FracturedRabbit]

I find that it helps to shoot highly reflective surfaces without an artificial light source. I use a light box, or surround the object in white cloth hung on a plastic frame, ensuring that no direct light can reach the object (this means surrounding the camera in cloth also, such that just the lens is poking through. I do all this in a room with plenty of windows and white walls, so there is plenty of diffused natural light. I have use a very slow shutter speed because the amount of light hitting the object is quite low; but as I am using a tripod that doesn't matter so much.

If I am still getting unwanted reflections, then I use small pieces of black card which I move around until the reflection disappears on the camera preview, and then tape them in place.

[DiNiro]

Just thinking. I wonder if a HDR shot of the coin would look nice?

I have noticed many HDR shots of old rusted cars or machinery look outstanding.

A HDR of an old coin might look nice.

[ThaiBob]

What kind of pp was done? In LR I would be playing with the sharpening and clarity sliders.

[ETatBKK]

FarengFB, you get the right equipment already.

'detail flaws that I'd like to "not be" in the photo (the coin was pratically perfect on naked eye)'
macro lens sees much more than our eyes. on vintage coins, you may consider to accept those scratches and flaws, yet you don't want to elaborate it, isn't it ?

then avoid side lighting that usually renders surface texture and contour. define a main light source, about 15-deg from lens axis, then a supplementary fill-in on another side, avoid two hard shadows.

your tent may already too big for shooting coins, light sources too far ( high contrast ) ? try lowest ISO ( 100 on 600D ), smaller aperture and longer exposure for best tonal rendering. if you like, cushion the coin 1mm or 2mm above the backdrop, you will get a nice eye-friendly soft shadow around the coin.

'I'm looking for is a way to make the coin look shinier and cleaner.'
right before the photo session, clean the coins with copper or silver polishing cream, on a warm cloth.

fracturerabbit's ideas on black shading card, could be developed into black, silver and gold cards ( all in B2S ). get these cards as close as possible to the coin, by experiment. as seen on tywais' video, the card on the left already too far ( or too small ). try to trim the shading cards into strips, or even shapes, may work too.

keep the lens-to-object distance as far, the 100mm macro already a good choice. a serious macro of coin may take 2 hours getting right setup, light and shade. enjoy it !

if you are in photoshop, the level and curve features may help to adjust the resulting contrast from the highlight to the effect of the shading cards. the HDR certainly help, I didn't try it yet.

have fun !

[samuijimmy]

I see several people saying to clean the coins.... Do not do that if you want to keep their value!

Not sure how to help you on this, except to say I had a neighbour who used to take images of watches, then would spend hours with Photoshop, getting the type of image you posted as to what you wanted to achieve. He used a light box similar to what has been shown, actually made it himself

[FarangFB]

Thank you all who replied. I finally took the time to try shooting all the coins.

Based on the opinions here I came up with this setup:

And here is the result. The coins in worst condition appear pale on the photo. I also had to resize the original pictures (they were around 12mb each), so there's a loss of quality. If I were a bit less lazy I could get better results by taking photos of one coin at a time.

Despite using the same setup for all coins, some coins "performed" well while others are not very photogenic.

This one was quite good on the photo:

This one not really:

Click the spoiler button to see all the coins:

Edited July 26, 2013 by FarangFB

[Crossy]

I like your use of the 'spoiler' function to hide large images, does the browser still download the files if they are hidden?

[FarangFB]

I like your use of the 'spoiler' function to hide large images, does the browser still download the files if they are hidden?

I think so, browser still loads what is inside the spoiler. Because when I open a spoiler the pictures show instantly for me most of the time.

[ETatBKK]

what an amazing collection of Thai coins !! pictures WELL DONE as well !

if you have ton of time, you can touch up individual coins for the metallic effect you want. yet coins in group will be more challenging.

[FarangFB]

what an amazing collection of Thai coins !! pictures WELL DONE as well !

if you have ton of time, you can touch up individual coins for the metallic effect you want. yet coins in group will be more challenging.

Thanks for the kind words.

When I get the time and patience (and more experience with photography) I'll do another session, getting each coin individually to fill the frame. I should also find replacements for some coins that are too "pale" and worn out before attempting that.

[wolf5370]

How about a simple polarizing lens filter? Or even perhaps using a good quality scanner instead?

[Tywais]

How about a simple polarizing lens filter?

I started to recommend that earlier but found that they don't help much for coins (metallic surfaces).

Google Books

Circular polarizers, also referred to as circular polarizing filters, can be used to create circularly polarized light or alternatively to selectively absorb or pass clockwise and counter-clockwise circularly polarized light. They are used as polarizing filters in photography to reduce oblique reflections from non-metallic surfaces

Wiki

Still, if he has one wouldn't hurt to try especially if he is shooting through a slab (plastic cover).

[DiNiro]

The artificial light would need to be polarized too, no?

I recall reading that in an article about photographing oil paintings that have lots reflective areas.

Edited July 28, 2013 by DiNiro

[ETatBKK]

polariser came to my mind as well, yet couple of concerns :

lighting was applied through the tent, light becomes diffused. polariser won't work effectively with diffused light, as DiNiro mentioned. a honeycomb grid may help to regulate parallel light.

polariser also won't be so effective on pure metallic reflection. sometimes help.

I actually have a question on the tent. since the coins are shot FRONT-ON ( indeed like scanning ), do we really need a tent ? straight on lighting from the axial light source may render better metallic details. then, a polariser could be checked for adjusting the shading effect.

just a thought.