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What is it about the Fortuner...


wedders

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Thanks for all the responses. I opted for the top Pajero 4WD model in the end. So.... if money were no object, what modifications would you make? (Please.... no "replace it with a Fortuner" comments smile.png )

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Congratulations on your new SUV! clap2.gif

- If you care about maintaining your vehicle's performance, only use Shell V-Power diesel fuel and 100% brand name synthetic oils (like Mobil 1).

- Your first motor oil change should preferably be at 1,000 km - 5,000 km. (We will forgive you if you use 'reg' motor oil this time only!)

- I also highly recommend replacing your present transmission fluid with a trusted brand name 100% synthetic fluid.

- Improve both your ride comfort and ride quality with a tire upgrade the first thing after picking up your new SUV - Yokohama Prada Spec-X are what I recommend.

- Improve your safety by upgrading to high rated gas shock absorbers.

- Install a racechip and a K&N air filter.

- Upgrade your brakes! There are different stages and combinations of brake upgrades from the basic increased rotor size to larger calipers.

Having all of the above done will guarantee you a long term top performing SUV that will be a joy to drive! wai2.gif

So,what happens to the Factory Warranty after doing all this? wink.png

C'mon, now ....

I had all of these upgrades performed plus I had the original rear drum brakes replaced with rear disc brakes. So, any factory warranty coverage 'for the brakes' could be void, big deal. The factory warranty only warrants the brake system against brake component failure .... besides, you will be installing higher quality and new brake components onto a brand new car PLUS you will be increasing your and everyone's personal safety with better braking power. Brother, you can't begin to imagine the peace of mind that knowing you have top notch brakes, tires and vehicle handling gives you on these wet roads and accident/injury avoidance - until you need it!

Other than that, do as I do and easily remove the K&N air filter and racechip prior to each dealership service visit just to avoid any added attention. I don't mention the transmission fluid change to them but I do bring in my 100% Mobil One and have them refill with it at oil change times. That reminds me, I will be due for another oil change after my next Bkk and CM trips.

In other words, no problem with voiding engine warranty, in fact the techs have come up to me and asked where I got my brake work done - Runstop, BTW.

How did they get round the factory brake bias with the rear disc brake conversion ?

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Thanks for all the responses. I opted for the top Pajero 4WD model in the end. So.... if money were no object, what modifications would you make? (Please.... no "replace it with a Fortuner" comments smile.png )

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Do not put a tint on front window change the light's to xenon, rear camera . Other than that enjoy.

It comes with auto-leveling HID headlamps as standard.

That's a real cool feature I didn't know came standard with the Pajero .... the next upgrade I have to have done.

Edited by thailoht
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Thanks for all the responses. I opted for the top Pajero 4WD model in the end. So.... if money were no object, what modifications would you make? (Please.... no "replace it with a Fortuner" comments smile.png )

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Congratulations on your new SUV! clap2.gif

- If you care about maintaining your vehicle's performance, only use Shell V-Power diesel fuel and 100% brand name synthetic oils (like Mobil 1).

- Your first motor oil change should preferably be at 1,000 km - 5,000 km. (We will forgive you if you use 'reg' motor oil this time only!)

- I also highly recommend replacing your present transmission fluid with a trusted brand name 100% synthetic fluid.

- Improve both your ride comfort and ride quality with a tire upgrade the first thing after picking up your new SUV - Yokohama Prada Spec-X are what I recommend.

- Improve your safety by upgrading to high rated gas shock absorbers.

- Install a racechip and a K&N air filter.

- Upgrade your brakes! There are different stages and combinations of brake upgrades from the basic increased rotor size to larger calipers.

Having all of the above done will guarantee you a long term top performing SUV that will be a joy to drive! wai2.gif

So,what happens to the Factory Warranty after doing all this? wink.png

How did they get round the factory brake bias with the rear disc brake conversion ?

I can't explain the engineering principles as to how it works, but I had emails to the techs at Runstop who said it was a 50/50 or 60/40(?) ratio front/rear braking power. I watched the 'mechanics' of the installation. They did a professional-like job and I have all of the 'brand-new' drum brake hardware from my MU-7. The resulting braking power I now have is top notch, IMHO - of course.

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The brake bias valve on factory rides is non adjustable. Have done stuff in the past and fitted an adjustable valve.

Nothing is 50/50, front must always be in control, otherwise in the wet you will be going round in a spin if a problem. BUT, if your brake ''feel'' is OK then great. thumbsup.gif

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The brake bias valve on factory rides is non adjustable. Have done stuff in the past and fitted an adjustable valve.

 

Nothing is 50/50, front must always be in control, otherwise in the wet you will be going round in a spin if a problem. BUT, if your brake ''feel'' is OK then great. Posted Image

Agreed, and if you need to straighten her out, you can always use the E-Brake with control.
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It was a the first Spivo in our Area, crap dipped lights and rolled like a drunken Sailor and you revved the Nuts off it to get speed up our Mountan Roads,it's still about , i'm sure it was 7ish Years ago. Used it on and off ,but an Auto Vigo felt much better..could be wrong on timescale,not very interested in it,just happy to not see it outside the House.biggrin.png

The car u decribe is nothing like the 2013

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It was a the first Spivo in our Area, crap dipped lights and rolled like a drunken Sailor and you revved the Nuts off it to get speed up our Mountan Roads,it's still about , i'm sure it was 7ish Years ago. Used it on and off ,but an Auto Vigo felt much better..could be wrong on timescale,not very interested in it,just happy to not see it outside the House.biggrin.png

The car u decribe is nothing like the 2013

Like wise as all the Sportivo's only came with same auto box as the Vigo. Edited by fredob43
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It was a the first Spivo in our Area, crap dipped lights and rolled like a drunken Sailor and you revved the Nuts off it to get speed up our Mountan Roads,it's still about , i'm sure it was 7ish Years ago. Used it on and off ,but an Auto Vigo felt much better..could be wrong on timescale,not very interested in it,just happy to not see it outside the House.biggrin.png

The car u decribe is nothing like the 2013

I don't think AOP's gripes are with the color of the interior, the design for headlamps or body kit, or the stereo that's fitted in the dash :D

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Jesus, now its inferred that a Vigo Box is inferior. Therres a few thousand happt owners about with it attatched to the same Engine as the Spiver.thumbsup.gif

YOU stated that the Vigo box was better, it was just pointed out that they are the same box so before you get on your high horse reread your post, add 2 and 2 together and try and make 4.
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Thanks for all the responses. I opted for the top Pajero 4WD model in the end. So.... if money were no object, what modifications would you make? (Please.... no "replace it with a Fortuner" comments smile.png )

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

So when are you expecting to pick up your new SUV? Will it be the 2014 model?

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The brake bias valve on factory rides is non adjustable. Have done stuff in the past and fitted an adjustable valve.

Nothing is 50/50, front must always be in control, otherwise in the wet you will be going round in a spin if a problem. BUT, if your brake ''feel'' is OK then great. thumbsup.gif

If you look at a factory ride with 4 wheel discs, the rear disks and pads are smaller which is a start. Personally I wouldn't mess with one of mine because they all have anti-lock brakes and I don't know how that would work out. They are all already 4 wheel disc.

God, cars are expensive in LOS. I just bought a loaded CRV with a 2.4 engine, and traction control 4x4 for just over 800,000 baht, all in including sun roof, premium sound etc. (In the US)

Someone earlier said the CRV is on a car frame so buy an Accord. In 4 wheel drive haha?

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The brake bias valve on factory rides is non adjustable. Have done stuff in the past and fitted an adjustable valve.

Nothing is 50/50, front must always be in control, otherwise in the wet you will be going round in a spin if a problem. BUT, if your brake ''feel'' is OK then great. thumbsup.gif

If you look at a factory ride with 4 wheel discs, the rear disks and pads are smaller which is a start. Personally I wouldn't mess with one of mine because they all have anti-lock brakes and I don't know how that would work out. They are all already 4 wheel disc.

God, cars are expensive in LOS. I just bought a loaded CRV with a 2.4 engine, and traction control 4x4 for just over 800,000 baht, all in including sun roof, premium sound etc. (In the US)

Someone earlier said the CRV is on a car frame so buy an Accord. In 4 wheel drive haha?

I don't recollect, at the moment, the exact front/rear brake control % that was quoted to me but I'll try to find out. The guys at this brake company are specialists - I learned about them a few years ago from some of the posters-in-the-know on this forum at that time. The rear discs and pads are indeed smaller than those on the front. 4 wheel disc brakes is the only way to go, IMHO - of course! Rear drum brakes in family autos are soo-o-o-o the last generation technology, IMHO.

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Drums work OK, for sure not as powerful as discs but that is one reason they are still used on the rear, discs not needed, plus less chance of crap/mud etc contaminating stuff cos the drum shoes are enclosed, where as the disc setup gets crap on them.

If the fitter got the bias wrong and you do an emergency stop the rear will come round. Perhaps ABS is relied on here, l don't know.

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Drums work OK, for sure not as powerful as discs but that is one reason they are still used on the rear, discs not needed, plus less chance of crap/mud etc contaminating stuff cos the drum shoes are enclosed, where as the disc setup gets crap on them.

If the fitter got the bias wrong and you do an emergency stop the rear will come round. Perhaps ABS is relied on here, l don't know.

I don't know either unless I drove it, your up late buddy, long day or what, wine finished now for me ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. biggrin.png

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Drums work OK, for sure not as powerful as discs but that is one reason they are still used on the rear, discs not needed, plus less chance of crap/mud etc contaminating stuff cos the drum shoes are enclosed, where as the disc setup gets crap on them.

If the fitter got the bias wrong and you do an emergency stop the rear will come round. Perhaps ABS is relied on here, l don't know.

I don't know either unless I drove it, your up late buddy, long day or what, wine finished now for me ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. biggrin.png

Yeh, thinking and doodling here, must go up soon or she will think l am talking to a bird on here. laugh.png

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Drums work OK, for sure not as powerful as discs but that is one reason they are still used on the rear, discs not needed, plus less chance of crap/mud etc contaminating stuff cos the drum shoes are enclosed, where as the disc setup gets crap on them.

If the fitter got the bias wrong and you do an emergency stop the rear will come round. Perhaps ABS is relied on here, l don't know.

The company is very reputable and the job they did is exceptional, IMHO, but probably all in a days work to them. Because drum brakes are, '... for sure not as powerful' as disc brakes, are exactly why I personally choose to have them. I particularly love the way my new brakes take hold of my 1800 kg SUV when descending those steep mountain curves but more importantly how they stopped this same SUV on a dime when a little school girl ran directly into my path as I was driving in the rain on a narrow mountain road. Thank goodness she wasn't seriously hurt but had I not changed the original factory tires and undersized brakes on this SUV, under those road conditions, I know that poor little girl would have been dragged under my vehicle because it would not have been able to stop w/o first skidding! I am so thankful I had the forethought - thanks to help from former posters - to put safety first - but I didn't need to have such a near-miss to reinforce my decision. 4 wheel disc brakes for me!

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Thanks for all the responses. I opted for the top Pajero 4WD model in the end. So.... if money were no object, what modifications would you make? (Please.... no "replace it with a Fortuner" comments Posted Image )

 

So when are you expecting to pick up your new SUV? Will it be the 2014 model?

Friday, allegedly. And to be honest, I don't know!

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Isn't most all your braking power in the front?

Yes, a brake bias valve sorts out the front/rear bias % to keep the ride in a straight line on braking. If you alter the brake setup, like fitting more powerful rear brakes, the bias may have to be altered or the rear of the ride may over take you. w00t.gif If front are beefed up too then perhaps all will be well.

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There used to be a hydraulic valve with a position sensor from the rear suspension to adjust brake bias with load. As TA said they were not adjustable.

Most have gone to EBD now, using electronic trickery and ABS to manage brake bias. Like ABS and ESC, EBD is tuned to suit the OEM setup but can compensate for minor variation. Presumably keeping the brake torque / pressure characteristics similar to OEM would avoid messing with the electronics.

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