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Fighting Rising Electricity Costs


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Posted

Another bill, and another surprise.

It made me look for ways to save on electricity in my 2 bed room condo.

Considering cieling fans, electricity saving bulbs (but the condo has cieling spots everywhere) and so forth. Naturally the aircon(s) are the main cost.

Even saw som kind of electricity saving device at the night market by Lumpini (and Chatuchak) which is SUPPOSED to stablize the power flow (some kind of transformer?) and thereby save electricity (they even had a meter and a lightbulb so one could see the effect when plugged in. :o

Any thoughts/ideas/tips out there?

Cheers!

Posted
Another bill, and another surprise.

It made me look for ways to save on electricity in my 2 bed room condo.

Considering cieling fans, electricity saving bulbs (but the condo has cieling spots everywhere) and so forth. Naturally the aircon(s) are the main cost.

Even saw som kind of electricity saving device at the night market by Lumpini (and Chatuchak) which is SUPPOSED to stablize the power flow (some kind of transformer?) and thereby save electricity (they even had a meter and a lightbulb so one could see the effect when plugged in. :o

Any thoughts/ideas/tips out there?

Cheers!

For starters those things at the market do not have a measurable effect (there's a thread somewhere, one of our members dismantled one).

Ceiling fans work very well (we rarely use the aircon), low energy bulbs etc.

Turn off lights when not in use, you know, all the things your parents told you to do when you were small :D

Posted

Use low wattage lighting.

Problem is with many of these condos with lots of downlights is the heat generated by so many lights, increasing you use of Air/Con.

Buy a Few Standing Lamps with 7 Watt long lasting bulbs.

Posted

Another bill, and another surprise.

It made me look for ways to save on electricity in my 2 bed room condo.

Considering cieling fans, electricity saving bulbs (but the condo has cieling spots everywhere) and so forth. Naturally the aircon(s) are the main cost.

Even saw som kind of electricity saving device at the night market by Lumpini (and Chatuchak) which is SUPPOSED to stablize the power flow (some kind of transformer?) and thereby save electricity (they even had a meter and a lightbulb so one could see the effect when plugged in. :o

Any thoughts/ideas/tips out there?

Cheers!

For starters those things at the market do not have a measurable effect (there's a thread somewhere, one of our members dismantled one).

Ceiling fans work very well (we rarely use the aircon), low energy bulbs etc.

Turn off lights when not in use, you know, all the things your parents told you to do when you were small :D

The "electricity saving device" is absolute fraud. It will not save you a baht but the seller will be happy if you buy one.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=65659

Insulation is the cheapest/easiest way to lower your airconditioning costs. If you have any walls facing east or west, check what you can do to insulate them. If you own the condo, you may want to change to double glass windows.

We had an aircon closet facing west in our old apartment. The outside wall got heated to 60 degrees in the late afternoon so we just covered it with styrofoam (inside the aircon closet so it was hidden and easy to do). Also, if your aircon compressors are ever hit by sunshine, try to create some shadow for them. Same thing, we put up some of the semi-transparent plastic tarp that are normally used in plant nurseries for shade in front of our main compressor.

As for lighting, there are LED based replacements for most types of lighting nowadays. (even fitted in the halogen spotlight thingies that normally produce a lot of heat and burn a lot of electricity)

Posted

Insulation is not really practical in a condo, and in any case will probably only save about 2% costs if installed correctly. It is normally only "protectors of the environment" or people looking for long term savings who really make much difference to overall electricity consumption, as savings do not initially equal monetary input :o You spend an extra 5000 baht to save 200 baht a month.

The SEER rating of your air con, whether it is regularly serviced and had filters changed are the most important. Raise the temp. on your thermostat and invest in a ceiling fan which will reduce the heat you feel by 5 degrees when kept on full speed. Turn off fans when you leave the room as they do not reduce room temp. just skin temp. Or of course you could just keep 2 bottles of ice cold beer hanging from your baseball hat. I tried this, but it ended up costing me 600 baht a day. :D

Posted

Probably won't help the Original poster having a condo, but with the sunlight here it is an absolute scandal that solar power is not presented as a bi power if not sole generator of houses/homes, as it is in much of spain, for example.

I just don't understand it considering the poor plight of so many Thai people etc and the cost of electricity.

Mak

Posted

Bite the bullet and if your air conditioner is more than three years old look for a new unit. Pay close attention to the efficiency rating. In my condo I used to keep a 40 watt night light on. I change that bulb to a five watt fluorescent and had plenty of light. I didn't have a single incandescent bulb in the place. If you have a one bedroom condo use a separate unit and leave off the main unit.

Posted

I was watching a BBC world programme the other night called 'Click' which is about computers mainly but they did a feature on how much energy is consumed by appliances that are on 'standby' - very interesting results - basically recomendation was to always turn of your appliances at the plug - just a TV on standby was using something like 30% power when on standby - if your like me and leave your TV on standby (i.e just turn it off with the remote), they can soon add up and my TV is either on or on standby for 24 hours a days multiplied by the 3 TV's in my place. Or at least they were on standby until I saw the programme - now I turn it off at the on/off button on the appliance itself.

Posted
I was watching a BBC world programme the other night called 'Click' which is about computers mainly but they did a feature on how much energy is consumed by appliances that are on 'standby' - very interesting results - basically recomendation was to always turn of your appliances at the plug - just a TV on standby was using something like 30% power when on standby - if your like me and leave your TV on standby (i.e just turn it off with the remote), they can soon add up and my TV is either on or on standby for 24 hours a days multiplied by the 3 TV's in my place. Or at least they were on standby until I saw the programme - now I turn it off at the on/off button on the appliance itself.

yeah...I saw that program as well...we are slaves to our remote devices...marriages have failed and even parricide has resulted due to conflicts attributable to control of the remote device and failure to disconnect the power at the source...

just switch dat mofo off when you hit the sack...at the wall switch. When de kids dey come complainin' get out the strap and spare no mercy...'you doan' mess wid me now...you turn opp dat tv or ah's gwine ta whup yuh...'

Posted

Hi, looking at this topic, I wonder if electicity is much more expensive than in Europe. I will move to Bangkok in August, and I will be interested in knowing the tipical bill amount per month for a 3 bedroom condo.

Any advice ?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A late reply. In my 2 bedroom condo bill runs to about 2-3000 baht per month(so lets say 2-4000 baht for a 3 bedroom if you use the extra room).

I use aircon every night and part of the day but am careful only to use in the room I am in. I pay directly to the electricity company and not to a condo owner who often wants "padding" often doubling the bill.

Cheers!

Posted

The official rate is around 4-5 baht/kwh but as Firefan pointed out, condo managements often pad the bill considerable - 10 baht/kwh in condos are not unusual.

As a previous poster pointed out, it is unbelievable that so few houses in thailand have at least their water heated by solar energy. In all of pattaya I only know of one village (Pattaya Hill) where houses are equipped with this. Not just from the point of view of saving electricity, but also to avoid getting zapped by dodgy wired bathrooms.

Posted

Just a reminder for those from the UK that we do not have wall switches on our outlets here in Thailand. If you want to turn the power fully off there is a push button on the front of your TV that performs that function. You may have less service life as pictures tubes don't like sudden changes but with the life of most sets well beyond our normal desire to get a new model it is probably a worthwhile move to turn them off.

All, or most, incandescent lights can be replaced and if you like the warm color that is also now available with the new florescent screw base bulbs. Service that air conditioner at least once or twice a year (full cleaning inside and out). Not using air conditioning is not an option for many who live in cities but the less used the less the cost - and having the fan, either in house or in air conditioner on a higher speed may make it feel cooler and at very little extra cost. And as said all the things mother told us to do.

Posted

Went to Homepro to see if there were any alternatives to the 50W halogen spots all over my condo. Found none. Lingling; where have you seen those? In another country? (not talking normal energy saving bulbs).

Cheers!

Posted
Went to Homepro to see if there were any alternatives to the 50W halogen spots all over my condo. Found none. Lingling; where have you seen those? In another country? (not talking normal energy saving bulbs).

Cheers!

Hey Man,

Can you run your Air Cons on alternative power like "Beer Chang"?

Just kidding...

Those 50W halogen lamps may be adding up... Try to determine your "base load" for a 24 hour period when not using your air con. (read you meter before and after.) Then do the same thing for a 24 hour period while using the air. Subtract the difference, then solve your problem.

According to MEA, http://www.mea.or.th/english/service-3.html you are paying less than 3 baht / kWh, a very good rate.

Posted

That link is 6 years old. I am currently paying 3.92 baht per unit on single phase 15/45 amp service meter (high user).

Posted

Yeah I think it is more like 4 Baht/unit. I use about 2000-3000 Baht per month now with no change in usage where before it was in the 1500 Baht area.

I have gotten some more normal lamps with energy saving bulbs - should help a bit.

Aircons gets cleaned/serviced every 3-4 months and are 3 years old by now.

I do have a lot of windows as well as West ward walls/balcony so will at least try the idea of shielding the aircon vents baking in the sun.

Keep the ideas flowing!

Cheers!

Posted

I will go homepro and check for that fan over the bed too I think - hoping I can stand sleeping with that only in the colder periods - healthier too I would imagine. Cheers!

Posted

Some 'typical' energy saving tips;

1. Don't fill your electric kettle with hot water so that it will boil quicker. You have already paid to have the water heated once...why pay to heat it twice?

2. Defrost your refrigerator regularly. In typical Thai refrigerators, there is usually a red button in the freezer. This button sits approximately 5mm above the surface of the freezer. When the ice in the freezer reaches the end of the button (a 5mm build-up of ice within the freezer), defrost the refrigerator. Again with Thai refrigerators, defrosting requires the pressing of the button that is normally in the centre of the temperature control knob. Press this button before you go to bed at night & do not leave the door of the refrigerator open & do not not turn the refrigerator off. In the morning, the refrigerator will be defrosted if there is not more than a 5mm build-up of ice.

3. Use solar hot water. Thailand is an ideal place for the use of this free heating. These systems can be easily 'home built'. Additionally, a pool heating system MAY be used to heat water. This system usually uses a large plastic matt that is placed upon the roof of your house to heat the water in your pool. This system can be converted to heat your domestic water by adding a small circulating pump & storing the heated water in an insulated storage tank. 2 problems...the water will not be as hot as that of a copper solar system & the water may have a 'plastic' taste to it. Make sure that if you choose to use the 'plastic' system that the plastic used will not be dangerous to your health. Copper is best.

4. Avoid using pressure controlled water pumps. These units will react against the pressure in an air bladder. If the pressure in the bladder reaches a lower limit, the pump is turned on until the pressure reaches the upper limit in the air bladder, at which point, the pump will turn off. Depending upon the size of the pressure controlled unit, the pump can be turned on & off several times if someone has a shower. The problem is that ALL electric motors use 6 to 8 times the amount of energy to start than they need to run.

A sensible alternative is to install a 'header tank'. This tank is ideally 2-3 metres higher than any water outlet within the house. The tank will have 'low level' & 'high level' float switches, which operate the pump as required. Ideally, a minimum 400 litre tank will be installed so that when the 'low level' is reached (maybe at the 100 litre level), the pump will start & run until it reaches the 'high level'. This is much more economical than having a motor switch on & off frequently.

5. Insulate your home.

6. Do not use 'low voltage' lighting. I'm talking about the 12 volt 25/50 watt Halogen lights. These lights generate a significant amount of heat, which makes air con work harder. Also, the transformers that supply these lights with power, are VERY inefficient (a minimum of 45% wasted energy). If you MUST use these lights, try to use 'electronic transformers' to supply this type of lighting with electricity.

7. Use electronic ballasts with fluorescent lighting wherever possible. Also, don't use the cheap fluorescent tubes. If possible, use XL Tri-Phospor tubes. More expensive but will last MANY years compared to that of standard fluoro tubes. They are also almost immune to the life reducing 'switch on, switch off' affect if used with electronic ballasts.

8. Use a microwave oven wherever possible, as opposed to using the electric range. This includes boiling water for drinks etc. Electric kettles are expensive to run compared to microwave ovens.

Posted

I have a 500 liter tank on a platform that is three meters high. If you expect to use an on demand hot water heater you should be aware that a height of three meters will not produce enough pressure to make the pressure switch in the water heater. Unless you like cold showers you must find a different solution.

Quote;

4. Avoid using pressure controlled water pumps. These units will react against the pressure in an air bladder. If the pressure in the bladder reaches a lower limit, the pump is turned on until the pressure reaches the upper limit in the air bladder, at which point, the pump will turn off. Depending upon the size of the pressure controlled unit, the pump can be turned on & off several times if someone has a shower. The problem is that ALL electric motors use 6 to 8 times the amount of energy to start than they need to run.

A sensible alternative is to install a 'header tank'. This tank is ideally 2-3 metres higher than any water outlet within the house. The tank will have 'low level' & 'high level' float switches, which operate the pump as required. Ideally, a minimum 400 litre tank will be installed so that when the 'low level' is reached (maybe at the 100 litre level), the pump will start & run until it reaches the 'high level'. This is much more economical than having a motor switch on & off frequently.

Quote

Posted
I have a 500 liter tank on a platform that is three meters high. If you expect to use an on demand hot water heater you should be aware that a height of three meters will not produce enough pressure to make the pressure switch in the water heater. Unless you like cold showers you must find a different solution.

Quote;

4. Avoid using pressure controlled water pumps. These units will react against the pressure in an air bladder. If the pressure in the bladder reaches a lower limit, the pump is turned on until the pressure reaches the upper limit in the air bladder, at which point, the pump will turn off. Depending upon the size of the pressure controlled unit, the pump can be turned on & off several times if someone has a shower. The problem is that ALL electric motors use 6 to 8 times the amount of energy to start than they need to run.

A sensible alternative is to install a 'header tank'. This tank is ideally 2-3 metres higher than any water outlet within the house. For example, if your water heater is 1.5 metres above ground level, then the tank needs to be at least 2-3 metres above this outlet. The higher the tank, the greater the pressure. The tank will have 'low level' & 'high level' float switches, which operate the pump as required. Ideally, a minimum 400 litre tank will be installed so that when the 'low level' is reached (maybe at the 100 litre level), the pump will start & run until it reaches the 'high level'. This is much more economical than having a motor switch on & off frequently.

Quote

Posted

My on demand water heater needs six PSI to activate the pressure switch. If you research it you will find that for each meter of height you will get about 1.41 PSI. You will need to be a minimum of 4.3 meters above the water outlet to get six PSI.

Posted
My on demand water heater needs six PSI to activate the pressure switch. If you research it you will find that for each meter of height you will get about 1.41 PSI. You will need to be a minimum of 4.3 meters above the water outlet to get six PSI.

Hi Gary,

With every device that you buy, there are 3 costs;

1. Purchasing/installation cost,

2. Maintenance & running costs,

3. Replacement cost.

Assess costs as above;

1. (a 'one time' cost) &

3. (this cost results because of an incorrect installation, bad maintenance or bad future planning) then compare it to the next cost,

2. (maintenance & running costs).

The decision is yours.

Also, if you really are concerned about saving money, avoid using 'instantaneous' hot water systems. Use 'stored' hot water instead.

See the 'Domestic Electrical Wiring' post (search for it).

Posted
How about just painting the tank black and do without the water heater?

That depends if you want hot water or not. Try it! But don't be alarmed if the water is not hot because the sun isn't shining (overcast or night). 'Black' will give away heat as quick as it gets it.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
Another bill, and another surprise.

It made me look for ways to save on electricity in my 2 bed room condo.

Considering cieling fans, electricity saving bulbs (but the condo has cieling spots everywhere) and so forth. Naturally the aircon(s) are the main cost.

Even saw som kind of electricity saving device at the night market by Lumpini (and Chatuchak) which is SUPPOSED to stablize the power flow (some kind of transformer?) and thereby save electricity (they even had a meter and a lightbulb so one could see the effect when plugged in. :o

Any thoughts/ideas/tips out there?

Cheers!

Posted

i have an energy saving device designed specifically for AC units. email me at [email protected] and i will send you information

Another bill, and another surprise.

It made me look for ways to save on electricity in my 2 bed room condo.

Considering cieling fans, electricity saving bulbs (but the condo has cieling spots everywhere) and so forth. Naturally the aircon(s) are the main cost.

Even saw som kind of electricity saving device at the night market by Lumpini (and Chatuchak) which is SUPPOSED to stablize the power flow (some kind of transformer?) and thereby save electricity (they even had a meter and a lightbulb so one could see the effect when plugged in. :o

Any thoughts/ideas/tips out there?

Cheers!

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