I'm interested in making hand-held, low light street pictures and am looking for tips/critique.

Try it without the .........the Folks......... in your photo.

Focal Length 14 mm

Exposure Time 1/320 sec

Aperture f/2.8

ISO Equivalent 800

Much better for me.

Win

Thanks Kanwin, appreciated. How about I move them out of the way?

Here I want to show warm/soft cold/hard and those keen lamps in the middle.

I have always been attracted to the atmosphere of low light and would like to focus on developping skills.

Thanks, I feel reassured by your example I'm close with my numbers. I'm more confident now.

Focal Length 10.4 mm

Exposure Time 1/400 sec

Aperture f/1.8

ISO Equivalent 800

When shooting low light/night images consideration should be given to the ISO in use. The higher the ISO the lower the dynamic range and, of course, the potential of noise intrusion. In both the above examples an unnecessarily high shutter speed for a basic static image was elected creating the need for ISO 800. You could have reduced to (say) c.1/125th and benefitted from the additional DR and lower noise of ISO 200. Conversely, retaining the ISO and adjusting the EV will enable greater DOF should this be required.

Accurate metering is also more significant in this environment. Under expose and you'll going to introduce noise in adjustment. If anything, go for slight over exposure ( without blowing the highlights). Most sensors are good for clawing back 1-2 stops of over exposure, but open up the shadows by this amount and see what happens!

This of course is assuming you're shooting RAW. This the ONLY way to go. Ignore Jpeg. The amount of additional detail in a RAW file is vast. Use it. However, If you're not interested in post processing or merely looking to upload small files to the 'net then you can ignore all the above.

But one day you might just hit "That" shot, and if you're stuck with a noisy and lossy low resolution Jpeg file you'll be pissed.

Take a look at the EXIF data as an example.

Fimgirl, thanks a lot! That's very valuable basic information I need. I get on it and practise right away.

I'm shooting in RAW since 6 months and learn to use Lightroom. I never shoot JPG again.

Thank you.

Accurate metering is also more significant in this environment. Under expose and you'll going to introduce noise in adjustment. If anything, go for slight over exposure ( without blowing the highlights). Most sensors are good for clawing back 1-2 stops of over exposure, but open up the shadows by this amount and see what happens!

Through trial and error I started to see this very issue/problem appear. There's indeed too much noise when under exposed. The problem is I naturally under expose because the result appears better on the camera screen but later in PP the picture has too much noise.

Great tip: If anything, go for slight over exposure ( without blowing the highlights).

What you're seeing "in camera" is a jpeg converted rendition which is merely an indication of outcome. Some cameras run "hot", some "cold". If you have a histogram view available that will be somewhat more accurate although still only approximate. Learn to read the difference and expose accordingly. Avoid clipping.

Remember a year ago when you were adamant that PP was unnecessary and unprocessed jpegs were your RAW?

Good man. You've come on leaps and bounds.

P.s reference noise. Learn to use curves and adjust the black point in LR. Also look at the local adjust tool for selective adjustments.

Conclusion: Low light means low on the ISO. Dark areas will be grained with a higher ISO setting although light areas seem ok. For example: I initially notice the natural level of human skin detail on Fimgirl's picture compared to mine is quite dramatic.

I'll turn off the Auto-ISO option on my cam while being in low light.

Another environment:

This one is on very low ISO160.

According to Fimgirl's suggestion above I conclude I'm too low with a 6.3 focal length which reduces the possible perception of DOF... Am I correct?

I just needed to relax, find an interesting vantage point and take ample time to balance the exposure. In PP I have to be more gentle with delicate light nuances and don't over-saturate.

If I want to show what I see I need to take my time, become more aware of the situation I'm in and especially don't rush! I realise now I need years and years of practise and experience.

Thanks MJP, Kanwin and Firmgirl.

I keep the old 16mp AA filterless K-5IIs around for low light work. Lower pixel density and larger sensel size helps with keeping the noise down at higher ISO. I attach either the Pentax-K 50/1.2 or Revuenon MC 55/1.2.

This is the Pentax 50/1.2 wide open, ISO 400.

Just bracket everything. Adjust +/- 1-2 stops and examine the EXIF data. Keep the ISO and aperture constant and adjust EV via shutter speed. This is the fastest way to learn and of course the benefit of digital. Make a mental note of the changes and what you prefer and that's your starting point. If your camera has custom setting then input your preferences for future use. After a while you'll learn to "read" the light and will not need the auto anything on your camera. Then you're in control and you and not the camera become the photographer. Consistency is the outcome.

It's all part of the learning curve. Try it.

Dancealot, on 10 Jul 2014 - 00:34, said:

Thanks Kanwin, appreciated. How about I move them out of the way?

Very easy, no need to speak at all, just show them your camera, pointing that you wish to take a photo and 99% of folks just move a bit for your shot.

A small hand wave (with a smile of course) pointing to were they could move to out of the picture/photo.

Your camera must be ready to take that shot btw.

One or two clicks and off you go.

Why waste time to remove objects after the fact, just do it then and not after.

The KISS principle is still alive and kicking.

Keep It Simple Silly,

Win