Chain Cleaning Solution?

[junglechef]

I bought one of those chain cleaners (like in pic attached) and I've read that simple green is a good solution to put in it.

Is that avail here (Chiang Mai)?

Read degreaser too but it takes quite a lot each time.

Any other recommendations?

I sprayed degreaser to get off the tough stuff and then put dish soap and water in, seem to do ok job but interested in better solutions (pun intended )

Thanks, JC

[fdimike]

I'm not a fan of these cleaners (I gave mine away) as I found it's much easier to simply buy some kerosene and a "master link" for the chain. Buy a bottle of Listerine mouthwash and dump the contents and pour in the kerosene. Remove the dirty chain and "master link" and dump it all into the bottle. Shake it up a few times and remove the chain and "master link" then rinse off with water and let it dry then relube, Result is one sparkling clean chain. You can repeatedly use the kerosene as the crud will settle to the bottom of the bottle. When I'm on tour I always take a bottle of kerosene with me to help eliminate problems with premature chain wear. I learned the hard way breaking a chain in the middle of nowhere is just not what I consider fun.

I hope this helps.

[AnotherOneAmerican]

Petrol and a foot brush works just as well.

[Babooshka]

Petrol and a foot brush works just as well.

Or a used tooth brush.

It's faster and more efficient than any of those machines.

[fdimike]

The nice thing about installing a "master link" in the chain is it allows you to easily remove the chain from the bike. Once removed it's easy to clean the cassette, jockey wheels and the chainring. Additionally, kerosene leaves a light oil coating on the chain which will prevent any rust from forming while it's drying. It also can be used repeatedly as the sand and dirt will fall to the bottom of the kerosene.

[junglechef]

Like the idea of a master link and how kersene will not let it rust while it dries, win win!!

When I use a toothbrush it takes a good 10-15 min and not nearly as clean as 10-15 sec with my machine

Anyone know about how any of these degreasers are on the finish of my carbon frame?

I bought "Smile Engine Clean" on advice from local cyclist (CM forum) and am a bit concerned if it drips onto my paint job.

Thanks for all the feed back! JC

[fdimike]

BTW not all "master links" are created equal. Some are one time installations and others are difficult to remove. I've found the Connex brand link from Wippermann to be the easiets to install and remove. Just remember to follow the instructions for installation or your chain will skip on the smallest gear( 9 speed cassette). In that case just reverse the link and all should be fine.

Another great maintenance product is something called Gear Floss from Finish Line lubricants. It's the easiest way to clean the gunk from a cassette and just about any other tight place on the bike. http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/cleaning-tools/gear-floss-microfiber-rope

I know it may sound a bit extravagant but it really does work well and will make cleaning the cassette a piece of cake. I use it on both the cassette and the chain ring gears as well as anyplace else which is difficult to clean. Much better than my old method of a tooth brush.

I hope this helps.

[junglechef]

Thanks, I have a 10 speed rear cassette (2 on front) and use a Shimano XTR chain, an upgrade on my new Scott Spark 700 Premium.

I vowed to myself when I bought it that I would buy a some tools, learn basic maintenance etc. I know very little and am not particularly mechanically inclined. Thought it would be a chore but I actually enjoy cleaning my bike.

Fixing it might be more of a challenge! (but after paying shops to not fix my bike, often making it worse and a few times to outright breaking it I am committed to trying!!)

After cleaning now I spray with Sonax and then lube before riding. I also have WD 40 bought for other purposes but haven't used it yet on my bike.

When it comes to lube I found that Muc-Off C3 Ceramic Lube seemed to attract lots of gunk. Maybe I was using it too liberally?

Pedros Ice Wax seem to be pretty good.

I ride mainly off-road, XC single tracks and dirt roads ect.

It can be muddy in the rainy season here in Chiang Mai, but usually dusty and dirty, sometime with red clay and even back strap molasses (used to keep the dirt down for the truck at the dirt pits).

Are Finish Line Clear Floss and Connex brand links available in Thailand?

[Babooshka]

Junglechef, the bicycle chain is a heavy duty thing, however it does not suffer so badly as for example motorcycle parts do. Just clean it and grease it regularly. It practically does not matter what particular lube you are using - the chain's life depends more on frequency of servicing, than on lube quality or brand.

Anyway, shimano chains work well but I would recommend to you buying a Campagnolo Record 10 sp chain, when yours wears out. It will work perfectly with your 10 sp transmision, but will last much much longer. Much longer can mean even two or three times longer, depending on what you do with your bike.

[fdimike]

Jungle

The importer for Finish Line products is Pro Bike in BKK. You should be able to get any of their products through Pro Bike or any of its dealers throughout the country. Connex links are available here in Thailand. I buy mine from the Bike Ceneter here in Udon Thani. You can order directly from them as well tel: 043347700. I'm not sure who carries these links in CM. However, I would be more than happy to lend a hand and send you a handful if you can't find them in CM. They run about 150B each for a 9 speed link. I always carry a spare link while on the road just in case I lose the one on the chain while cleaning or ???

Bab

I don't know what kind of riding you do but I am a long distance touring cyclist as well as a local around Udon Thani province rider. I've only had 1 chain break on me in my early days of cycling (about 8 years ago) and I can tell you it's not much fun trying to get back on the road again. I say this because I always make sure my chain is in good condition. I've tried a lot of different chain lubes to include Joe's, Muc Off Ceramic etc etc etc. I always come back to one brand Finish Line Red Label with teflon. It seems to attract much less dirt and gunk. Having said that I also clean the chain about every 7-10 days of riding while on tour. I'm currently using a Shimano XT chain which I find works well for me. I'm not sure if spending big bucks on a top end chain will actually result in any longer life. I fully agree with you regarding frequency of servicing but disagree on "It practically does not matter what particular lube you are using - the chain's life depends more on frequency of servicing, than on lube quality or brand." I believe it's a combination of service, quality lube whichever brand works for you and a quality chain.

[junglechef]

Thanks, I'll go to Jackies Bike here which is Probike supplied and see what they have.

Always can use an excuse to go to BKK anyways. I went there and bought my bike at Kh Cycle (http://khcycle.co.th/) who I recommend.

Actually at the recent Chiang Mai Bike Week I won a pair of round trip tickets to BKK on Bangkok Air, one of the sponsors. Funny I asked why I won and they said they didn't know and I quickly remembered sometimes it's best not to ask too many questions here and just grabbed them with a quick thank you.

I've used Finish Line before, think I'll give it a go again.

Many people tell me the kind of lube doesn't matter, and I have no idea if it does concerning chain life, but it does seem to matter when cleaning afterwards.

Yes, I have broken quite a few chains, usually by misuse such as shifting too later on an uphill on a Mt Bike course when really pushing it.

Once I was days away from civilization in the jungles of Laos and broke a chain, my riding partner (with 1/2 the shared tools including the chain tool) had left days ago and I had fixed it with a rock.

I appreciate all the advice and opinions.

fdimike, I'd like to get more into longish distance touring as I really enjoyed doing some while I was in the Philippines where I rented a real good touring bike. Especially so as I get older my body doesn't like the thrashing it gets from challenging single track riding but I still love the thrill and can't get enough of being out in nature!

[fdimike]

Jungle

I just turned 69 last month and pretty much know my limitations. I enjoy touring in general and enjoy it even more on my bike. I've toured solo and with a friend in nearly every country in SEA. Getting started in bicycle touring is really pretty easy. All you really need is a bike, a map and a couple of panniers to carry some clothes, a water bottle, some tools etc. I would start with a short tour (4-5 days) to begin with to see how you like it. My first real tour was solo to Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand via Narathiwat & Pattani from my home here in Udon Thani. I did that tour on a Merida MTB so the kind of bike is not particularly important to begin with. I've since moved up to a full fledged Surly LHT touring bike and carry 4 panniers, a trunk bag and a bar bag. There are lots of on line resources available to give some hints of what ans what not to take with you. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

[Babooshka]

I envy you, tourers. I personally just can't stop on going faster and faster, and that is nothing to do with long rides. Although I did some randonneur challenges back home. Good luck!

BTW impressed by your age FdiMike. I've seen people of 60-70 age category racing, but they are unique, and sometimes former champions. Cheers!

I, personally, got back in saddle at the age of 33, after a heart attack. I had a cycle school and racing experience when I was 15-21, but it was not that easy to get back after those years of drinking, smoking and working in my office.

That was also one of the reasons I quit and moved to Th.

Edited January 24, 2015 by Babooshka

[AnotherOneAmerican]

And there's my using the oil that goes in the gear box of the auto scooters for my bike chain.

30-50 bht a bottle.

[Babooshka]

And there's my using the oil that goes in the gear box of the auto scooters for my bike chain.

30-50 bht a bottle.

There were times we used even waste oil from cars... no other opportunities, worked ok

[Chao Lao Beach]

How important is it to clean the chain on a Honda Click ?

Can't say I have ever noticed it to have been cleaned after I take it to any shop.

[chiangmaiexpat]

I've since moved up to a full fledged Surly LHT touring bike and carry 4 panniers, a trunk bag and a bar bag.

Speaking of which... have you (or anyone else) tried the Surly ECR bike? That's the sort of bike I fancy for a Transalp tour, or even an SEA jungle tour. I would imagine that it can go places where the LHT cannot go. But I am not sure how well it climbs. Does anyone have experience with fat tyre touring?

Cheers, CM-Expat

[T_Dog]

Another chain maintenance option is to use the orange spray bottle of "Multi-purpose lubricant" which is about 80 baht a can at Makro. It seems to be kerosene-based and I have had good results with it. Here is what I do before every ride:

-Wipe the chain down well with a rag.

-Spray on the lubricant liberally.

-Wipe off all the excess.

-Go ride.

The stuff is thin so it penetrates the links, and there is no waxy or oily build up. Seems all the commercial lubricants build up a sludge on your bully pulleys. With the spray lubricant, you never have that problem and the chain and cassettes last longer.

[Tonto21]

Another chain maintenance option is to use the orange spray bottle of "Multi-purpose lubricant" which is about 80 baht a can at Makro. It seems to be kerosene-based and I have had good results with it. Here is what I do before every ride:

-Wipe the chain down well with a rag.

-Spray on the lubricant liberally.

-Wipe off all the excess.

-Go ride.

The stuff is thin so it penetrates the links, and there is no waxy or oily build up. Seems all the commercial lubricants build up a sludge on your bully pulleys. With the spray lubricant, you never have that problem and the chain and cassettes last longer.

Have to say, I do the same, it cleans and lubricates, good for one ride-out, do before each ride.

Avoid using WD40....It is not a lubricant.

[fdimike]

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

[Babooshka]

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

I always thought WD 40 was just kerosene with some odours added. was I wrong?

[rebo]

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

I always thought WD 40 was just kerosene with some odours added. was I wrong?

http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts:

Myth: WD-40_® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40_® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40_® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Myth: WD-40_® Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40_® Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40_® Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle maintenance needs, check out WD-40_® BIKE. Developed specifically for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike mechanics for decades.

Edited February 4, 2015 by rebo

[moonoi]

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

I always thought WD 40 was just kerosene with some odours added. was I wrong?

http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts:

Myth: WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40_[emoji768] stands for Water Displacement, WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Myth: WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle maintenance needs, check out WD-40_[emoji768] BIKE. Developed specifically for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike mechanics for decades.

Even GCN recommends using WD40 as both degreaser and lubricant, you can check it out here:

[moonoi]

Didn't know you can't post you tube links, so just search for GCN 5 min bike wash, if you're interested.

[seedy]

How important is it to clean the chain on a Honda Click ?

Can't say I have ever noticed it to have been cleaned after I take it to any shop.

Uses a drive belt.

[rebo]

The problem with using WD-40 for highly stressed chains is that this stuff doesn’t sustain high surface pressure.
So you can’t avoid metal rubbing directly on metal what causes abrasion and pitting what consequently causes increased frictional losses as well as higher wear.
I always use tough “Chain-L” chain oil, and don’t clean my drive train after every ride but after about 200 - 400 km (master link, diesel, tooth brush, compressed air: < 10 mins.). Thus a chain (9-speed XT) comes to an approximate life span of 4’000 km, and a cassette (SLX) to up to 14’000 km. Even then the chain doesn’t jump yet but starts not to run smoothly anymore during shifting operation.
Even though I can't imagine a life without WD-40 (and duct tape ;-) )I wouldn't recommend WD-40 for lubrication of your bicycle drive train as long as we speak about "serious cycling". For only a weekly loop to the local market it's O.K. to prevent rust ...

[moonoi]

The problem with using WD-40 for highly stressed chains is that this stuff doesn’t sustain high surface pressure.

So you can’t avoid metal rubbing directly on metal what causes abrasion and pitting what consequently causes increased frictional losses as well as higher wear.

I always use tough “Chain-L” chain oil, and don’t clean my drive train after every ride but after about 200 - 400 km (master link, diesel, tooth brush, compressed air: < 10 mins.). Thus a chain (9-speed XT) comes to an approximate life span of 4’000 km, and a cassette (SLX) to up to 14’000 km. Even then the chain doesn’t jump yet but starts not to run smoothly anymore during shifting operation.

Even though I can't imagine a life without WD-40 (and duct tape ;-) )I wouldn't recommend WD-40 for lubrication of your bicycle drive train as long as we speak about "serious cycling". For only a weekly loop to the local market it's O.K. to prevent rust ...

Seriously watch the GCN video I mentioned. The guy has been using WD40 on his drivetrain for 5 years without ill effect, as a professional cyclist. Edited February 4, 2015 by moonoi

[A1Str8]

I have a self cleaning chain. It was made in Thailand.

[junglechef]

I have a self cleaning chain. It was made in Thailand.

Are we still talking bicycles?

If so please explain.

If not http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/forum/117-bikes-in-thailand/

[Assurancetourix]

The problem with using WD-40 for highly stressed chains is that this stuff doesn’t sustain high surface pressure.

So you can’t avoid metal rubbing directly on metal what causes abrasion and pitting what consequently causes increased frictional losses as well as higher wear.

I always use tough “Chain-L” chain oil, and don’t clean my drive train after every ride but after about 200 - 400 km (master link, diesel, tooth brush, compressed air: < 10 mins.). Thus a chain (9-speed XT) comes to an approximate life span of 4’000 km, and a cassette (SLX) to up to 14’000 km. Even then the chain doesn’t jump yet but starts not to run smoothly anymore during shifting operation.

Even though I can't imagine a life without WD-40 (and duct tape ;-) )I wouldn't recommend WD-40 for lubrication of your bicycle drive train as long as we speak about "serious cycling". For only a weekly loop to the local market it's O.K. to prevent rust ...

Never use WD-40 for cleaning a chain or a cassette ;

I cycle between 13,000 and 16,000 km each year with my Wheeler Pro 10 ; That I have bought in Pattaya five years ago .

I have Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the two wheels I have changed rapidly ; not enough strong for what I do with the MTB .

Indestructibles !! I did more than 20.000 km since I have them and never a puncture !!

Chain Shimano XTR and cassette 9 speed XT

The best way for cleaning a chain and the cassette is diesel , a tooth brush or a thin paint brush with long bristles and your hands .

I change the cassette once a year ; about 15.000 km and the chain about twice a year;

I can do about 8,000 to 8,500 km with one Shimano XTR

About my MTB some shots I did a few minutes ago ;

U can see the chain and the cassette and a running wheel after about 100 km on red roads ( two days ) ; they are abrasive ;

I will clean it in a few minutes.

P1010783_ksr_wheeler_cassette by vanhouten1, on Flickr

P1010780_ksr_wheeler_cassette by vanhouten1, on Flickr

P1010779_ksr_wheeler_cassette by vanhouten1, on Flickr

About the tyres , more than 20,000 ( twenty thousand ) kilometers .

Front wheel

P1010784_ksr_wheeler_pneu_avant by vanhouten1, on Flickr

Rear wheel

P1010785_ksr_wheeler_pneu_arriere by vanhouten1, on Flickr