New water pressure pump for residental property.

[up2you2]

I am in the market for a new water pressure pump to supply my two floor property from a holding tank.

My current model is a Makita VSS751:

750W, suction mlm (1-1/4)

Delivery 32mm(1-1/4)

Capacity 150 l/min

Total head 32m

For eight years this pump gave me fantastic service, but they are no longer making them.

I hope to replicate this experience.

I specifically don't wish to buy a problem, so I would be very grateful to hear from those that have also had a good experience in their purchase.

[Crossy]

That is one nice pump $$$.

You may actually be able to get new old stock http://3ethailand.tarad.com/product.detail_753723_th_4971686

Is the current unit faulty or are you looking to install something similar at a new location?

If you have the budget then the solution would be Grundfos, Grundfos or Grundfos Quiet, efficient, not cheap.

[up2you2]

That is one nice pump $$$.

You may actually be able to get new old stock http://3ethailand.tarad.com/product.detail_753723_th_4971686

Is the current unit faulty or are you looking to install something similar at a new location?

If you have the budget then the solution would be Grundfos, Grundfos or Grundfos Quiet, efficient, not cheap.

The current unit is faulty.

Having problems sourcing spare parts through the importer.

Makita I believe are no longer selling these pumps in Thailand.

[IMHO]

I can highly recommend the Hitachi 750W Inverter pump - these things are plain awesome.

http://www.hitachi-th.com/hitachi_new/products/productdetail.php?ModelID=9076&store=wpspec_e&ProductID=11&storename=ProductNameEn〈=

[IMHO]

That is one nice pump $$$.

You may actually be able to get new old stock http://3ethailand.tarad.com/product.detail_753723_th_4971686

Is the current unit faulty or are you looking to install something similar at a new location?

If you have the budget then the solution would be Grundfos, Grundfos or Grundfos Quiet, efficient, not cheap.

The current unit is faulty.

Having problems sourcing spare parts through the importer.

Makita I believe are no longer selling these pumps in Thailand.

By Importer, do you mean KTW?

[up2you2]

That is one nice pump $$$.

You may actually be able to get new old stock http://3ethailand.tarad.com/product.detail_753723_th_4971686

Is the current unit faulty or are you looking to install something similar at a new location?

If you have the budget then the solution would be Grundfos, Grundfos or Grundfos Quiet, efficient, not cheap.

The current unit is faulty.

Having problems sourcing spare parts through the importer.

Makita I believe are no longer selling these pumps in Thailand.

By Importer, do you mean KTW?

No, Thai Seng

[up2you2]

I can highly recommend the Hitachi 750W Inverter pump - these things are plain awesome.

http://www.hitachi-th.com/hitachi_new/products/productdetail.php?ModelID=9076&store=wpspec_e&ProductID=11&storename=ProductNameEn〈=

A major pump repairer was also recommending Hitachi to me this week, so it's good to hear your approval of them as well.

[IMHO]

That is one nice pump $$$.

You may actually be able to get new old stock http://3ethailand.tarad.com/product.detail_753723_th_4971686

Is the current unit faulty or are you looking to install something similar at a new location?

If you have the budget then the solution would be Grundfos, Grundfos or Grundfos Quiet, efficient, not cheap.

The current unit is faulty.

Having problems sourcing spare parts through the importer.

Makita I believe are no longer selling these pumps in Thailand.

By Importer, do you mean KTW?

No, Thai Seng

OK, it might be worth trying KTW then as well: https://www.ktw.co.th/contactus or http://makitathailand.com/en/contactus

[Gonsalviz]

I have Grundfos. The highest capacity I could find. It is excellent. The only downside is if you have the typical wall heater shower, you will probably have to limit the water flow.

[STMx]

Grundfos and Wilo are good quality pumps.

[cheeryble]

Crossy or anyone else.

I want to order two old fashioned "cement" water tanks.

Water will be pumped from them to provide pressure to a small bungalow and some garden spraying maybe.

I asked about the fittings set in the wall of the tank, particularly the bottom one as I don't want the pump to be restricted.

They said they supply the bottom fitting 4 hoon....which I learn is half inch which of course means about 17mm (go figure).

I would like to order ASAP.

What would you recommend the sizes to be?

(These tanks will be supplied by another pump at the well a hindered feet below if you could suggest a top fitting and possibly switch arrangement.)

ps best to just connect between the two tanks at the bottom making them effectively one tank....and to tee off this link?

Or is there a less restrictive fitting than a tee..?

Thanks so much.....

Edited March 11, 2015 by cheeryble

[IMHO]

Crossy or anyone else.

I want to order two old fashioned "cement" water tanks.

Water will be pumped from them to provide pressure to a small bungalow and some garden spraying maybe.

I asked about the fittings set in the wall of the tank, particularly the bottom one as I don't want the pump to be restricted.

They said they supply the bottom fitting 4 hoon....which I learn is half inch which of course means about 17mm (go figure).

I would like to order ASAP.

What would you recommend the sizes to be?

(These tanks will be supplied by another pump at the well a hindered feet below if you could suggest a top fitting and possibly switch arrangement.)

ps best to just connect between the two tanks at the bottom making them effectively one tank....and to tee off this link?

Or is there a less restrictive fitting than a tee..?

Thanks so much.....

If you're only going to be using a single tap at any time, even just a base model 80W-100W pump will do at least 20L/min - which is a good shower. If you might be running 2 taps concurrently, get a 150W.

4 hoon = 1/2 inch = 16mm

I would suggest a ball valve on each tank (so they can be isolated - you will want to do that from time to time), then adapt the pipe size up to the pump inlet diameter (probably 6 hoon / 3/4" / 20mm if you follow my advice) before adding a T and running to the pump.

As for your well pump - the very first thing you need to know is whether or not it has a pressure switch (i.e. can turn itself on/off as taps/valves are open/closed). If it doesn't there's no easy way to make it all automatic. If it does, all you'll need is a float valve in each tank, like this:

Edited March 11, 2015 by IMHO

[cheeryble]

If you're only going to be using a single tap at any time, even just a base model 80W-100W pump will do at least 20L/min - which is a good shower. If you might be running 2 taps concurrently, get a 150W.

4 hoon = 1/2 inch = 16mm

I would suggest a ball valve on each tank (so they can be isolated - you will want to do that from time to time), then adapt the pipe size up to the pump inlet diameter (probably 6 hoon / 3/4" / 20mm if you follow my advice) before adding a T and running to the pump.

As for your well pump - the very first thing you need to know is whether or not it has a pressure switch (i.e. can turn itself on/off as taps/valves are open/closed). If it doesn't there's no easy way to make it all automatic. If it does, all you'll need is a float valve in each tank, like this:

Thanks IMHO!

First, thanks for pump size info.

Second, yes great of course a ball valve is a good idea.

I'm thinking you're suggesting the ball valve will be half inch, 4hoon, same as the outlet on the tanks.

Do you think this outlet is big enough to not be restrictive?

(Actually now you mention it there will in my case be TWO outlets because two tanks, which will in effect double the cross sectional area of a single half inch pipe)

So I think you're suggesting teeing the pipes together to a higher ID and this should suit the pump.

(Just happen to have not dealt with pumps before except in gas boilers in the UK where there is never any decision about sizing.....so a bit of a newbie to it).

Yes first thing I thought about the top of the rank was float valve but thanks for informing me about the possible pressure switch at the well pump which would make float valves usable.

Unfortunate the shape of the tank will mean a float valve will mean not filling the top part of the tank with water.

Hmmm.....wonder if there's any way round that...its a very natural situation and the tanks would look far better I think.

Also thinking.....do they position the upper fitting for a float valve or just an overflow And bring water in through the hole in the top I wonder?

As I say I'm guessing we can order the fittings we want in the positions we want, so need to work this out.

Unfortunate we're not near Paan where the tanks come from or we could discuss with the guy.

ps thinks: maybe a float valve can be adapted so the float well above the valve?

pps sorry to butt into the thread

Edited March 12, 2015 by cheeryble

[IMHO]

Unfortunate the shape of the tank will mean a float valve will mean not filling the top part of the tank with water.

Hmmm.....wonder if there's any way round that...its a very natural situation and the tanks would look far better I think.

Also thinking.....do they position the upper fitting for a float valve or just an overflow And bring water in through the hole in the top I wonder?

As I say I'm guessing we can order the fittings we want in the positions we want, so need to work this out.

Unfortunate we're not near Paan where the tanks come from or we could discuss with the guy.

ps thinks: maybe a float valve can be adapted so the float well above the valve?

pps sorry to butt into the thread

You can simply bend the float valve's arm to get it to fill the ong all the way

Talk to your ong supplier and see if they can make a hole for 3/4" threaded pipe, next to the main opening (on the horizontal part of the top), otherwise you won't be able to get a lid on it properly.

[cheeryble]

So glad about this conversation IMHO

yes of course if I could have an inlet near the lid I could simply put an elbow inside to connect a float valve normally near the top (instead of with the float going down vertically into the water!!)

Thought:

Aren't float valves half inch?

But it might be nice to fill the tankS relatively fast in case I am watering more in future and want to fill the tanks as fast as the pump can empty them.

Thought:

Theoretically if I link the tanks I only need one float valve....but guess it's better to have two for if I disconnect a rank for whatever reason?

Edited March 12, 2015 by cheeryble