How to pump the water into the shower unit

[sappersrest]

Yes in real terms as we do not have many outages and the water pressure is fantastic ,it would be an 11k luxury ,saying that I came here for a comfortable life so may well go with it, and it will give me something to do.

[lopburi3]

If you want a real difference I would advise using a high pressure type pump - but would greatly increase costs. There is also a chance your plumbing would have to be changed in some places. But having strong showers is a real priority for wife and as have 2 or 3 tubs of clothing a day to wash with extended family it helps to have good pressure everywhere. Grundfos pumps as below are very quiet (we have inside house).

[blackcab]

This is not the UK. Walls here do not support. As said this would be a huge amount of weight/feeding trough for vermin just waiting to come crashing down. Not to mention that in many areas you do not have enough water pressure to even fill it without a pump and most homes do not have attics so there would not be anyplace to install. He has ruled out a normal small tank/pump in an easy access (outside) so suspect he would not be into building a new home. But I could be wrong.

Whilst I defiantly agree the walls will not be load bearing the steel in the roof is.

Much to my consternation my son decided his hot water tank would go in the roof like yourself I said no way,but the builder a well known company did the calcs and got it signed off ok. These calcs were also verified by an independent source. so we all live and learn.

Is the steel in the roof supported by the walls, or is it supported by steel uprights?

[nabbie]

Have you had other outages? Is pressure good enough now for good showers? Would the 11k be worth it in reserve? (you can run normal pressure if good and only use pump when low or need to pump from tank). If you have city water it may not be worth the cost - but if you do have dry periods it can be very nice to have some reserve and a place to truck water if required.

Trying to be optimistic myself and I know your original suggestion to get the tank & pump outside is obviously the simple choice but.....

is it possible to relocate the water meter without damaging the grind cement (except the very minor damage will do no harm)?

Then the piping outside will be routing along the lower side of the grind-cement slope of the home entrance. After the task will be done, the piping outside can be covered with ordinary cement.

See pictures (sorry if it is dark) will tell you thousands of the words. Do I still have good chance?

[Crossy]

Go prospecting for a tank (say 500L) and a small pump, once you know the sizes available (short and fat or tall and thin) you can determine the best place for the tank (does it really have to go on the other side of your access ramp). sorting out the pipework and power for the pump should be relatively easy.

I wouldn't move the meter (it's not yours to mess with although it may not be sealed), just break into the supply after the meter. It will certainly involve some removal of concrete but even relatively large holes are easily patched. Run any new pipework clipped to the surface, paint it later if you wish.

Ask at the shop where you get the tank and pump, they should know a man who can do the job at reasonable cost.

[Naam]

Unless you are actually your avatar and do not mind dirty water it might be best to buy a storage tank and water pump as most homes use to obtain adequate pressure. Or take the normal Thai ladel shower.

Sorry, I prefer the shower unit with hot water.

[lopburi3]

As said have someone do the grunt work - they may know where pipe is on inside of wall and can connect with only earth dig - but in any case tank/pump do not have to be in same immediate area - just able to run pipe to/from. If you buy from a local shophouse they will have knowledge of people you can hire at reasonable cost, and with experience. They are interested in repeat business and recommendations.

Hate to do this but will throw out one other choice - note you seem to have galvanized iron pipes and suspect these have been in use for a long period? I changed to plastic in my 40 year old home about a decade ago, when increased pressure and old pipes were badly rusted. Had new system installed for 5 bath/2 kitchen house using external runs at very reasonable cost and only took a day or two to complete (including painting). No more worries of an underground leak (had some in the previous 30 years). With plastic mounting clips and paint they are not even seen for the most part (most run is along outside base of house).

[canuckamuck]

I can't see why you can't move the meter, with a few changes to the plumbing connections. Bring it out from the wall and give yourself some room to tee in another line.

That valve you have imbedded in the wall is unfortunate, but you should still be able to detach from it and then reattach the modified plumbing back into it.

I would make sure you get someone qualified to do it though. Worse case scenario is they have to chisel out around that valve and replace it.

[sfokevin]

^^^ There is absolutely no reason to find someone qualified!...

Show this picture to the local Somchai and give him 200 baht...

Edited June 2, 2015 by sfokevin

[nabbie]

Go prospecting for a tank (say 500L) and a small pump, once you know the sizes available (short and fat or tall and thin) you can determine the best place for the tank (does it really have to go on the other side of your access ramp). sorting out the pipework and power for the pump should be relatively easy.

I wouldn't move the meter (it's not yours to mess with although it may not be sealed), just break into the supply after the meter. It will certainly involve some removal of concrete but even relatively large holes are easily patched. Run any new pipework clipped to the surface, paint it later if you wish.

Ask at the shop where you get the tank and pump, they should know a man who can do the job at reasonable cost.

Agreed - will use International Sign language to explain Thai qualified plumber about that situation today. Will make further updates soon.

[nabbie]

Go prospecting for a tank (say 500L) and a small pump, once you know the sizes available (short and fat or tall and thin) you can determine the best place for the tank (does it really have to go on the other side of your access ramp). sorting out the pipework and power for the pump should be relatively easy.

I wouldn't move the meter (it's not yours to mess with although it may not be sealed), just break into the supply after the meter. It will certainly involve some removal of concrete but even relatively large holes are easily patched. Run any new pipework clipped to the surface, paint it later if you wish.

Ask at the shop where you get the tank and pump, they should know a man who can do the job at reasonable cost.

Agreed - will use International Sign language to explain Thai qualified plumber about that situation today. Will make further updates soon.

Having seen a very joyful lady from the shop near Dowroongwittaya school, both 550L tank and specified pump (80W - good enough for one floor). The costs are 2,000B & 3750B respectively. She explains me their service do not include the provision of the Thai qualified plumbers however she kindly manages to get one for me. The plumber will visit my place for assessment & quotation next Tuesday. That is just today's update & it will be interesting to see his outcome soon.

[sfokevin]

^^^ Please post some pictures of your final installation and a cost summary! ;-)

Edited June 6, 2015 by sfokevin

[nabbie]

Hi, I saw the Thai plumber yesterday & he did respond my request very well.

He says the 85w pump is not good enough for sufficient water pressure from tank so the 155w pump is better instead. The price difference is not much (about 1,000B or less increase). And the tank has to be 70cm diameter to match the 70cm base’s width size (not 75cm due to the risk of cracking!). I found the correct 750L tank at Homemart - slightly expensive at 3,800B but the colour looks nice & brownish.

In order to avoid cutting the cement, he suggests the water meter to be relocated by lifting up (about one feet higher). The incoming water will be from the wall tap nearing the tank & the outgoing piping from the tank will be routed to the T junction piping near the water meter via the pump. His service fee is 2,000B plus the cost of the accessories. The tank and the pump are charged separately. He can start this Sunday if all the items are in good order. This is what I believe what he is trying to explain me but I could be wrong.

Hope not to have any regrets with my decision based on your kind support within this thread. Otherwise please feel free to tell me. Thanks.

[lopburi3]

At first read sounded a bit high at 2k for just work but read lifting meter so probably will require officials and turning off main water line for a bit as well as your pump/electric/pipes/tank and such so probably not bad and seems to be someone who knows what they are doing. Let us know how it goes.

[nabbie]

At first read sounded a bit high at 2k for just work but read lifting meter so probably will require officials and turning off main water line for a bit as well as your pump/electric/pipes/tank and such so probably not bad and seems to be someone who knows what they are doing. Let us know how it goes.

Here is the final update including the photos showing before & after the progress.

The performance is really amazing me but there is slightly a side effect. My family complain when going to the toilet using the water jet. They rocketed to the sky due to its strong pressure so I have to turn the open/close tap to nearing the closing point - and it works better. Oops!

The comment I made in the previous comment is incorrect about piping. City water through the T piping near the water meter (city water) is running directly to the top of the tank. The high-pressure water is running from the pump to the wall tap. Obviously, the valve pipe is between them. Another valve is located immediately after the T piping in the normal way as before. If doubts, please see the photos.

So the overall cost is about somewhere between 12,000B to 13,000B including the water tank (blue, 750L) - 2,500B, the 155W pump - 4,600B, the ball floating, the floating switch for water-emptying operation, and others - no more than 3,000B plus the labour fee - 2,000B. Hence I am pleased to recommend him & his partner to anyone. His written English is good.

[Crossy]

Looks a reasonable job, the turbo-charged bum-gun would be seen as a bonus by some

Hindsight is 20-20 as always, but it would have been nice to include a bypass valve so that you could use city pressure such as there is in the event of a power failure.

[lopburi3]

Actually a good spray works great - but probably do need to close the stop valve at least part way. A bypass to allow use when no electric can still be installed if you want. There are automatic (check valve) and manual valve options (I prefer manual as seldom used and can be sure).

[lopburi3]

This is normal fix for the toilet spray - this way toilet gets full water pressure but you adjust only the spray to be less. It can also be done in chrome fittings but really no need as this functions just as well and lasts forever.