Leaking shower tap.

[JamieP]

I haved had to replace a shower tap. The old tap broke inside the threaded fitting when I attempted to remove it.

I managed to clear the broken thread out and leave only the brass (?) thread insert

I applied several layers of PTFE tape to the new fitting but it still leaks after I have tightened it by hand plus a couple of more turns using a wrench. I daren't tighten it any further.

There's still a spray of water despite repeating the exercise again.

Any ideas?

TIA

Jamie

[Sophon]

"Several" layers of the PTFE probably isn't enough, I have sometimes had to do as many as 10-15 or more layers to get make a waterproof connection. Most times it takes a lot more tape than you intuitively think.

Of course, it's possible that you damaged the insert when removing the old fitting, but you should be able to see any damage.

Sophon

[JamieP]

'Several layers' or a lot, on the second go I put enough tape for it to look like "too much".

Anyway, I'm in the dog house now and the wife wants to get someone in to fix it.

[Gsxrnz]

You have to wind the tape in the correct direction on the thread. Assuming a RH thread, wind it in an anti-clockwise direction as viewed from behind the thread. This is so it won't undo/shift when the thread is screwed in. Ensure you wind it tightly and press it in with your finger as you apply it.

Wind it on from the furthest end of the thread and ensure overlapping of say 1/3 of each turn until you get halfway down the shaft, then increase the overlap more and more towards the end so that the overall effect is that you create slight a cone shape with the tape.

If you can turn the thread all the way into the female end before the leak stops or you reach the flange end of the thread, you haven't applied enough tape. Basically, (and I'm exaggerating here), you can't put too much tape on provided you shape it as I described.

[JamieP]

So, if I'm holding the new fitting, looking into the thread, the tape should be wound in a clockwise direction?

This would mean it's wound anticlockwise when I turn it around to screw it into the wall fitting. This would then be correct for screwing into a RH thread?

[wayned]

You wing the tape clockwise around the fitting so that when you screw it it it doesn't tend to "unwind' it.

If the new fixture has a flange at the top of the thread where the faucet begins, you could make a big washer from and old tire tube or take the fixture to a shop that sells plumbing supplies and buy a big "O" ring. When you tighten it down in addition to the tape the ring/washer will compress between the flange on the fixture and the flange on the fitting in the wall.

You could also try suing RTV silicone gasket maker, used on automobiles. If you use it you should let it dry for a couple of hours before turning the water back on.

When you were digging the pieces of the old fixture out of the fitting in the wall you might have cracked the plastic and if that happened you will gave to have the fitting replaced.

I do my own plumbing and rebuild my own water pumps and stopping those small leaks can be challenging at times and they always seem to happen in places that are impossible to get to without dissembling what you have done, or in your case the possibility of have to rip out the wall to install a new fitting.

Don't replace the faucet with one of those cheap"pot metal" one you get in Tesco, use a quality one, like Cotto, that you only will find in a plumbing supply store. They're expensive but well worth the cost. Just replaced my kitchen faucet, 16 years old, with a new Cotto. It cost 1250 baht and was one rack next to ones for 360 baht.

[paulchiangmai]

Stag, or equivalent. Plus tape.

[KhunBENQ]

A "spray of water"?

Not just "dripping"/"swelling"? (what the right word?)

I hope the metal (?) fitting isn't already broken (cracked).

In this case you would have a lot more work to do.

[Crossy]

A "spray of water"?

Not just "dripping"/"swelling"? (what the right word?)

I hope the metal (?) fitting isn't already broken (cracked).

In this case you would have a lot more work to do.

If it is actually a spray it does suggest a crack in the fitting somewhere

[JamieP]

I got a more knowledgeable friend to come round a look for me. After he took out the fitting that the local guy, that the wife had dragged in, had been working on there was now obvious damage to the brass thread which I am certain was not done by me. Regardless of that, I'm getting blamed. My friend has since put a lot more PTFE tape on and now there is only a very slight, barely noticeable drip. So, while we have water in the house again, it looks as though we're going to have to rip out the old fitting and eat the cost of new tiles etc.

Total bummer.

We're going to get a different guy that we both trust to look at doing that work.

[JamieP]

Got our usual guy round and all seems well after using what I would call a "shitload" of tape.

Major sighs of relief all round.

[RichCor]

I've had lots of leak issues because fittings being sold here are just thread tapped badly and won't tighten up properly.

I ended up using Black PVC electrical tape in place of Teflon on a kitchen sink gooseneck faucet because any movement would cause teflon tape to shred in place.

[Gsxrnz]

Got our usual guy round and all seems well after using what I would call a "shitload" of tape.

Major sighs of relief all round.

Yep, it does take a shitload as I said in my earlier post, and it pays to shape the overlaps into a cone shape to ensure a seal is obtained.

The only way you know you've got too much on is if you can't even get the thread to "bite".

If you have worn threads, the more you need.

Personally I used to like the good old days when we used hemp and grease - much more reliable than the tape but a tad messy.

[stoneyboy]

Got our usual guy round and all seems well after using what I would call a "shitload" of tape.

Major sighs of relief all round.

Yep, it does take a shitload as I said in my earlier post, and it pays to shape the overlaps into a cone shape to ensure a seal is obtained.

The only way you know you've got too much on is if you can't even get the thread to "bite".

If you have worn threads, the more you need.

Personally I used to like the good old days when we used hemp and grease - much more reliable than the tape but a tad messy.

Hemp and grease on a shower fitting lol.

Why doesn't the OP go the full hog and apply some boss white,stag or loctite.

I have never in all my time had an issue using only PTFE tape here,the main problem that usually occurs as already stated is that the fittings crack after being driven home to hard.

[bankruatsteve]

^is that stuff for use on PVC? My experience is that it does take a lot more tape than would seem necessary but too much also doesn't work. And, I have used "electric" tape but tricky to overlap just enough to make it right. I think most problems are caused by the thought that the fitting needs to be wrenched in to the max instead of just enough.

Just to add... when initial or replace - go for stainless steel products. The cheap stuff won't last and cause headaches that just aren't worth the price difference.