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When I use the oven the power cuts out


dsurin66

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I seek the help from any farang that might have electrical knowledge.

We have a 'houseworth' oven- a big one thats twice the size of a normal microwave oven. We just moved into a new old house and I used the oven for the first time tonight. I plugged it into one of those 4 prong power adaptors that I plugged into a normal powerpoint in the wall. After 5 min the 4 prong power thing cut out. It has a cut out switch (safety switch) and it automatcally turned off. I threw that one in the bin and tried another 5 prong swtich adaptor. The same thing happened. Does it mean that the white square powerpoint switch in the wall is dodgy. Is it dangerous to continue using?

thanks

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The safety device operated so you threw it away? (twice)

What is the rating (Amps or Watts) of the oven, it will be on the back?

I would not use any kind of multi-lead with a high power device like an oven just plug it directly in to the wall, do you have a fire extinguisher?

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Ovens pull a LOT of power through the electrical line. And, as stated, usually should have their own dedicated line feeding back to the main power distribution Breaker Box.

Is there a reason you're wanting to use it with an adapter?

I would think anything pulling more that 1000 watts would melt those adapter things for breakfast.

Edited by RichCor
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do you have a fire extinguisher?

biggrin.png

Sounds like it is overheating from a load beyond its rating. I had one that did that as the internal solder connections (badly soldered at that) and wiring on the cheap extension strips can't handle that much current and heated up.

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The safety device operated so you threw it away? (twice)

What is the rating (Amps or Watts) of the oven, it will be on the back?

I would not use any kind of multi-lead with a high power device like an oven just plug it directly in to the wall, do you have a fire extinguisher?

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This happens when you don't use the oven for a while…moisture affects the heating element, shorting the circuit every time you switch it on.

Usually changing the element is the solution….which costs a bit…thereafter be sure to run the oven on high for at least 10 minutes once a week, then two weeks then three and finally one a month as maintenance.

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OP, can you explain what a "4 prong power adapter" and a "5 prong switch adapter" are, and what the extra prongs are for?

I certainly hope your not talking about powering a 2000+ Watt oven off a Power Strip!!!
fried_powerstrip_medium.jpg

O106805.jpg

A few past ThaiVisa topics available mentioning HouseWorth ovens, with many members NOT recommending them.

HOUSE WORTH Oven HWEO02 70 L Black
Size (46.5 x 71 x 45.5 cm).
Power 2000 Watts
Voltage 220 V 50 Hz
HOUSE WORTH Oven HWEO05 90 L Black
Dimensions: 71 x 54 x 44 cm.
Interior cooking area (50 x 43 x 34 cm)
Power 2800 Watts
Voltage 220 ​​V 50 Hz
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OP, can you explain what a "4 prong power adapter" and a "5 prong switch adapter" are, and what the extra prongs are for?

I certainly hope your not talking about powering a 2000+ Watt oven off a Power Strip!!!

From my interpretation I believe that's exactly what he's doing :(

Hope the photo wasn't one of your power strips :(

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The safety device operated so you threw it away? (twice)

What is the rating (Amps or Watts) of the oven, it will be on the back?

I would not use any kind of multi-lead with a high power device like an oven just plug it directly in to the wall, do you have a fire extinguisher?

... do you have a fire extinguisher?

cheesy.gif

It has a cut out switch (safety switch) and it automatcally turned off.

From the looks of that power strip, it did a little more than turn off.

Edited by Suradit69
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that power strip is not powerful enough. I had the same problem. you have to get a power strip that will cover the watts.read on the back and make sure you get one for the watts your using, 2,200. their like 500 baht

and only use the oven in it.or one unit at a time,

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The oven pull a lot of power. Plugging it into a socket on the wall is not good, the fuse box trip switch that feeds this socket could be 10amp and be feeding other sockets. These other sockets could be feeding water heater, air cons etc.

As mentioned you need this oven to have it's own supply from the mains box. Get an electrician to do this,if your mains box does not have enough trip switches change it for a larger one, and while you are at it save a possible life, get it all earthed.

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Our OP is still active on the forum, so he's not cooked himself.

The larger of the ovens shown above will pull about 13A, most power strips are fused at 10A, so no wonder the protection opened.

Even at 9A these things get warmer than I like, if I have to run on an extension I make up a lead, 3 x 1.5mm2 flex is readily available as are decent traily sockets and 3-pin plugs.

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Our OP is still active on the forum, so he's not cooked himself.

The larger of the ovens shown above will pull about 13A, most power strips are fused at 10A, so no wonder the protection opened.

Even at 9A these things get warmer than I like, if I have to run on an extension I make up a lead, 3 x 1.5mm2 flex is readily available as are decent traily sockets and 3-pin plugs.

Should be using 2.5mm2 for the wiring not 1.5mm2

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Dedicated circuit for ovens alone, same as back home in uk and I guess elsewhere with the exception of Greece their fuse blown long ago hehe.

Incidentally through laziness I myself on moving here ran all my electrical equipment through 1 outlet and guess what yep I had the same burning sensation as you but again through laziness I brought more outlets at 20 baht a shot got to costing me near on 100 baht so decided to take positive steps got the wife to expand the outlets only kidding did the work myself.

Edited by Brit_Doggie
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that power strip is not powerful enough. I had the same problem. you have to get a power strip that will cover the watts.read on the back and make sure you get one for the watts your using, 2,200. their like 500 baht

and only use the oven in it.or one unit at a time,

Nothing to do with power, it is all about the current. Rule of thumb is 4A per Kw, so a 2Kw & 3Kw oven would be 8A & 12A respectively. Extension leads are normally rated at 10A so the 2Kw oven would be borderline at least.

One of the problems with extension leads is that they are often designed to accept a variety of plug styles. This can lead to poor contact area in many cases. With currents of this value poor contact can become a resistive load and start to generate heat. It is a degenerative process as if the temperature gets to a certain level the surface of the material starts to oxidise which increases the resistance and pushes the temperature up even more, invariably leading to the contact burning out.

Appliances of this nature should be plugged directly to the wall socket with the correct plug for the wall socket.

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Dedicated circuit for ovens alone, same as back home in uk

Different ball game. UK cookers tend to be an oven and ring combination with total requirement in the order 6 to 8Kw so they need a dedicated feed from the consumer unit.

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I agree with most of what sandyf has said. Except that when he stated "Power has nothing to do with it it's about current". In fact Power (watts) is the product of the voltage/emf (volts) supplied to the outlet and is normaly 220 volts AC , single phase, in ThIland, and the current (Amps) drawn by your device. Power (in Watts) is egual to the supplied Voltage (Volts), multiplied by the drawn Current (I or A, Amps).

P = V x I, or P = V x A. So the number of amps that a large microwave like yours which I gather is rated at 2800 watts (2.8 kW) would draw a current of 2800 watts divided by 220 volts = 12.727 Amps. Much more than the 10 Amps rated by your Extension device, and probably more than the Circuit Breaker (Fuse box) rating for the socket outlets ( the white boxes) of which it may protect many.

So your extension devise was doing it's job. Do not increase the size of the fuse in it.

Do get the Circuit Breaker rating checked and consider having an individual Circuit Breaker fitted to protect only the circuit for your oven.

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Dedicated circuit for ovens alone, same as back home in uk

Different ball game. UK cookers tend to be an oven and ring combination with total requirement in the order 6 to 8Kw so they need a dedicated feed from the consumer unit.

True. But I think the OP is referring to a Microwave Oven a portable device, and not a fixed Built-In oven.

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Dedicated circuit for ovens alone, same as back home in uk

Different ball game. UK cookers tend to be an oven and ring combination with total requirement in the order 6 to 8Kw so they need a dedicated feed from the consumer unit.

True. But I think the OP is referring to a Microwave Oven a portable device, and not a fixed Built-In oven.

The brand Houseworth, as far as I know, does not have microwaves. He was just given a physical size comparison. He is referring to a tabletop electric oven similar to the below HW.

post-566-0-15834100-1440320063_thumb.jpg

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This happens when you don't use the oven for a while…moisture affects the heating element, shorting the circuit every time you switch it on.

Usually changing the element is the solution….which costs a bit…thereafter be sure to run the oven on high for at least 10 minutes once a week, then two weeks then three and finally one a month as maintenance.

That's a new one,,I am a Sparky by trade and I have never heard of that one before ,Are you sure ? can you prove that?

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Electricity in Thailand is dangerous at the best of times. First thing to check is the EARTH. There is a good chance there is no earth.

Then check the power coming into the property, see how great the supply is.

Then throw away the regular oven and go and buy a good size and quality halogen oven. They draw low power and if you get one with a rotisserie, cook

joints of meat really well. There is one that has a kebab attachment.

I know people will say " oh but the air con draws lots of power " and they are right however that unit is outside the house.

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Our OP is still active on the forum, so he's not cooked himself.

The larger of the ovens shown above will pull about 13A, most power strips are fused at 10A, so no wonder the protection opened.

Even at 9A these things get warmer than I like, if I have to run on an extension I make up a lead, 3 x 1.5mm2 flex is readily available as are decent traily sockets and 3-pin plugs.

Should be using 2.5mm2 for the wiring not 1.5mm2

Why??

Are ALL the leads on ALL your appliances 2.5mm2 ? I doubt it......

Rule of thumb, 1;5mm2 = 15 Amps, 2.5mm2 = 20 Amps........

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Yah. While I haven't seen the OP resurface for anything, there's no need for this to go on. If there is anything to be learned, DO NOT use any "power sticks - etc." in the kitchen. They are usually fused for 10a, if at all, and are just plain dangerous in a kitchen environment. If the kitchen is not properly protected by circuits and breakers, then it should be at highest priority.

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