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The Clutch That Wasn't At Fault Part II


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Good day,

Well, life's sometimes a real bitch. I'm back at Mitsubishi right after six hours of teaching grade one and two science and math.

Unfortunately did they do something wrong, when they put the clutch back in. When I drove to work today, I could hear and feel a vibration, coming right from the drive shaft.( I guess). Okay back at Mitsubishi, the chef mechanic sat outside and had a cigarette, asked him i f he could hop in for a ride and took off.

Yep, the "Taun Ghaan" ( drive shaft's causing noise and vibrations. But not good ones. They lifted it up did some stuff, but I wasn't really invited to watch them, went to the coffee shop and watching them from here.

Life's a bitch. What's the TVF members input? I mean what can go wrong when you put a gearbox back in, that's causing the drive shaft to vibrate?

Maybe I need a new drive shaft and a new gearbox now? Suggestions are wanted and welcome.

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P. S. Regarding my wife, it could also be tiny ghosts who lost their ghost houses.

They had it lifted up, tightened up some screws ( guess they forgot that Saturday) right at the middle, where the drive shaft is mounted to the chassis.

But now they're doing something inside the cabin, I hope they don't have to take the gearbox out again? Please Buddha......

Two Changs still make something in the cabin, no idea what. Keep sittin' here in the air conditioned coffee shop, until they give me my car back.

Just had a look what two guys are doing inside the cabin. They took the whole joystick out, told me that this would be the problem. I'm a little bit pissed off.

What could the joystick have to do with a vibrating drive shaft? Or is it just a cover up for not tightened up screws? I'm lost in Isaan. totally lost.facepalm.gif

Edited by lostinisaan
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Sorry to say but you have been totally stupid not to let the new clutch with a discount, you have been looking for problems and you found them ! How many more days lost at the dealer do you need to understand that ypur opinion was wrong?

I did my own research and found out that the Diesel pump needs -again- an overhaul. That will happen next Saturday morning, will be around 5.5 K and all will be fine.

Thanks for calling me stupid, it might not be wise to help others, who're facing a similar problem. Topic closed. Please shut it down Mods.

Calling somebody stupid is way too much.

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So the old and slightly worn not replaced propshaft joints had settled into a particular position and the garage didn't mark the joints to put the shaft back in the same position as they are worn just fit new joints, in future don't use a Mitsubishi Dealer they don't understand old truckswink.png

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Sorry to say but you have been totally stupid not to let the new clutch with a discount, you have been looking for problems and you found them ! How many more days lost at the dealer do you need to understand that ypur opinion was wrong?

Sorry to say but you have been totally stupid not to let the new clutch with a discount, you have been looking for problems and you found them ! How many more days lost at the dealer do you need to understand that ypur opinion was wrong?

I did my own research and found out that the Diesel pump needs -again- an overhaul. That will happen next Saturday morning, will be around 5.5 K and all will be fine.

Thanks for calling me stupid, it might not be wise to help others, who're facing a similar problem. Topic closed. Please shut it down Mods.

Calling somebody stupid is way too much.

Lostinissan

You have made yourself look stupid with posting this in the first place..................no-one to blame but yourself................whistling.gif

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Sorry to say but you have been totally stupid not to let the new clutch with a discount, you have been looking for problems and you found them ! How many more days lost at the dealer do you need to understand that ypur opinion was wrong?

I did my own research and found out that the Diesel pump needs -again- an overhaul. That will happen next Saturday morning, will be around 5.5 K and all will be fine.

Thanks for calling me stupid, it might not be wise to help others, who're facing a similar problem. Topic closed. Please shut it down Mods.

Calling somebody stupid is way too much.

Blimey. How much mileage has this thing got that it needs another fuel pump overhaul????

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For the power issues -:

1. Ensure air filter is clean or new.

2. Replace the fuel filter with a new one.

3. Make sure the fuel supply pump is delivering fuel to the filter.

4. Be sure the fuel you are using is good. Bad batches of fuel do happen.

If you still have power issues the next thing I would suggest is having the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve cleaned, better still blank it off completely on an older vehicle. Either will help address problems. Dirty EGR valves don't close properly thus exhaust gasses are recirculated all the time robbing the engine of power and forming soot and carbon deposits as the hot exhaust mixes with oil blow-by vapor from the crank case (crank case breather is usually routed to the inlet manifold). The older the engine the more of an issue it becomes.
If (I don't think it has one) there is a DPF (diesel particulate filter) in the exhaust that might be clogged have it taken out and a straight pipe put in its place.

Do the above first, this eliminates most cheap and simple problems. If you still have problems, afterwards then start to look at having the injectors cleaned and crack-off pressures re-calibrated. Leave the actual injection pump till last - its the least likely component to have a problem.

As for your drive train vibration, almost certainly something not tightened in sequence or correctly. Should be reasonably straight forward to resolve. As a previous poster mentioned, worst case would be replacement of UV joints.

Good luck ! thumbsup.gif

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Firstly I can never understand why people take old vehicles (i.e 5 yrs+) to Main Stealers. A back soi garage will do exactly the same work for half the money, but won't have a fancy clean workshop, an air conditioned waiting room and free coffee. Who do you think is paying for all that?

To insist they took out the new clutch was ridiculous. Once it was in you were in a very good bargaining position. I would have offered to pay the trade cost of the clutch but no labour for fitting. They would probably have snapped your hand off.

I mean what can go wrong when you put a gearbox back in, that's causing the drive shaft to vibrate?

Just as kartman said: Because they didn't mark it against the gearbox output flange before removing it and so put it back in a different place.

The biting point of a worn clutch will be near the top of the pedal travel, whilst on a new clutch it will be closer to the floor. A very easy way to test if a clutch is worn is to apply the hand brake hard, engage 5th gear, rev the engine a little and slowly let the clutch up. If the engine stalls dead the clutch is good. If the biting point is at the very top of the pedal travel its a good indicator the clutch is worn. If the pedal will come all the way up without stalling the engine the clutch is already worn out. Using this method you can spot a worn clutch a long time before it will start slipping.

Edited by Lancashirelad
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