Coaxial cable.

[Anthony5]

I need to run 40 meter of coaxial from the street to my house for cable internet.

What I was provide by the guys from the tv company I believe is cable for indoor use because it has white coating.

Would it harm to run it through the big drainage pipe around my land and then go up through the down pipes of my rain gutter, where I can enter the roof area.?

That way it will not be exposed to the sun, but of course get wet when have rains, and save me a lot of digging through the lawn.

[RichCor]

Cable jacketing is affected by direct UV exposure, but also heat differential. One the jacket cracks moisture and air will seep in an corrosion/oxidation will start on the outer braid. The inner core will be better protected but eventually it will also be affected.

I wonder if there is something you can coat the outer jacket with?

Personally I would just go with an RG-6 cable made for outdoor (element exposure) use.

[Anthony5]

Cable jacketing is affected by direct UV exposure, but also heat differential. One the jacket cracks moisture and air will seep in an corrosion/oxidation will start on the outer braid. The inner core will be better protected but eventually it will also be affected.

I wonder if there is something you can coat the outer jacket with?

Personally I would just go with an RG-6 cable made for outdoor (element exposure) use.

The spec on the cable read Commscope sat60S

part number SZ 4986603, but I can't find that particular part number in the Commscope catalog.

As I say the cable will not be exposed to UV or heat, I also intend to put it in LDPE pipe in the drainage pipes so that it it will not will be in the water at anytime, except in the downpour pipes of the gutter during the rain.

Edited August 27, 2015 by Anthony5

[RichCor]

When installing long-term infrastructure, you need to take into account the cyclical element changed that occur over the year. Not only is there a change in air temperature, but confined spaces like attics and or drainage ditches will be exaggerated. It's these daily temperature changes that cause material fatigue.

Most of the non-Plenum PVC jacketed CATV cables are UL Temperature Rated to 75 °C, so your plan laying it in LDPE pipe over most of the coarse should protect it for quite a while (save the mice and backhoe operators getting at it). While you're free to run it inside the downspout, the cable will be a resistance point for any debris and eventually cause a blockage that will overflow the gutter. Most people probably would just zip-tie it to the outside of the downspout out of direct sun exposure ... maybe even heavily paint it into place afterward.

Because CATV is susceptible to direct lightening effects and potential high-voltage flash over from electrical utilities on the shared pole it's highly recommended you terminate the CATV cable at a GROUND BLOCK (F-Connector/Ground Coupler with an actual ground wire running to a copper rod) before it enters the residence.

Historical Average Monthly Temperature -- Pattaya, Thailand

Our yearly extremes up here in the north are 40/13. Luckily that doesn't happen on the same day. Most of our overhead wires are weathered and cracked and some residential electrical lines have lost their jacketing. But that's mostly material deterioration from direct UV exposure.

[Anthony5]

When installing long-term infrastructure, you need to take into account the cyclical element changed that occur over the year. Not only is there a change in air temperature, but confined spaces like attics and or drainage ditches will be exaggerated. It's these daily temperature changes that cause material fatigue.

Most of the non-Plenum PVC jacketed CATV cables are UL Temperature Rated to 75 °C, so your plan laying it in LDPE pipe over most of the coarse should protect it for quite a while (save the mice and backhoe operators getting at it). While you're free to run it inside the downspout, the cable will be a resistance point for any debris and eventually cause a blockage that will overflow the gutter. Most people probably would just zip-tie it to the outside of the downspout out of direct sun exposure ... maybe even heavily paint it into place afterward.

Because CATV is susceptible to direct lightening effects and potential high-voltage flash over from electrical utilities on the shared pole it's highly recommended you terminate the CATV cable at a GROUND BLOCK (F-Connector/Ground Coupler with an actual ground wire running to a copper rod) before it enters the residence.

Historical Average Monthly Temperature -- Pattaya, Thailand

Our yearly extremes up here in the north are 40/13. Luckily that doesn't happen on the same day. Most of our overhead wires are weathered and cracked and some residential electrical lines have lost their jacketing. But that's mostly material deterioration from direct UV exposure.

OK, problem solved. Finally located the pre-installed cable at the street side.

I all the time knew there was one installed, and had located it at the loft end already, but at streetside it was hidden half way the tube leading to the junction box where it was supposed to be.

Now about the earthing. At streetside is connected to the pole which holds my transformer, and which of course has earthing cables installed by PEA.

Should I just connect the metallic shield to one of those cables?

Where will I find such a connector as shown in your post. Is that commonly available in Thailand?

Edited August 29, 2015 by Anthony5

[Crossy]

Do NOT connect the co-ax shield to anything, particularly don't connect it to the mains ground.

Let the cable installation crew sort the grounding / protection.

You could place one of those grounding blocks at the entrance to your home, on its own rod, but it may cause more issues than it solves depending upon how the cable system is grounded.

[Anthony5]

Do NOT connect the co-ax shield to anything, particularly don't connect it to the mains ground.

Let the cable installation crew sort the grounding / protection.

You could place one of those grounding blocks at the entrance to your home, on its own rod, but it may cause more issues than it solves depending upon how the cable system is grounded.

Why I can't place that grounding block where the cable starts at streetside, and what is the difference between my own rod and an the thick grounding cables that lead to the top of the pole?

If I'm not mistaken the box with the main 100A breaker below the transformer is also grounded to that same cable.

At the house side I can't do anything because it only becomes accessible above the loft.

Edited August 29, 2015 by Anthony5

[Crossy]

One of the issues I have in answering questions on this forum is that people use that word "why". The problem is that if they could understand the reasons they wouldn't be asking the questions in the first place.

Let's just say, "never, ever connect a communications ground to a power ground", there are also restrictions in how close together, power, communications and lightning protection grounds can be.

[Anthony5]

One of the issues I have in answering questions on this forum is that people use that word "why". The problem is that if they could understand the reasons they wouldn't be asking the questions in the first place.

Let's just say, "never, ever connect a communications ground to a power ground", there are also restrictions in how close together, power, communications and lightning protection grounds can be.

If everybody knew everything about every subject, the word "why" would indeed never have to be used, and at the same time there would be no use for this forum.

You never have a "why question" about a subject you are uniformed about?

The reason I asked was this remark from Richcor

Because CATV is susceptible to direct lightening effects and potential high-voltage flash over from electrical utilities on the shared pole it's highly recommended you terminate the CATV cable at a GROUND BLOCK (F-Connector/Ground Coupler with an actual ground wire running to a copper rod) before it enters the residence.

To me a ground is a ground is a ground, until someone explains the difference to me, because at the end of the day all grounding rods go in the same earth we are living on.

[Crossy]

To me a ground is a ground is a ground, until someone explains the difference to me, because at the end of the day all grounding rods go in the same earth we are living on.

Do you understand Ohm's law?

Do you understand that the earth does not have zero impedance (do you understand the difference between impedance and resistance)?

Ok, to keep it non-complex. Consider a common ground rod with a ground resistance of say 100 Ohms. What voltage will that ground rise to when we have close lightning strike that induces, a, say, 1000A spike into the mains system?

What voltage will your interconnected grounds rise to? What will that do to your communications equipment? Don't forget that the signal line (the centre core) is referenced to the ground potential at the other end (some km away) so suddenly the cable screen is xxxV above the signal line which is expecting less than a volt or two.

[Anthony5]

To me a ground is a ground is a ground, until someone explains the difference to me, because at the end of the day all grounding rods go in the same earth we are living on.

Do you understand Ohm's law?

Do you understand that the earth does not have zero impedance (do you understand the difference between impedance and resistance)?

Ok, to keep it non-complex, consider a common ground rod with a ground resistance of say 100 Ohms. What voltage will that ground rise to when we have close lightning strike that induces, a, say, 1000A spike into the mains system?

What voltage will your interconnected grounds rise to? What will that do to your communications equipment?

OK, I understand the reasoning behind it now, didn't take too much of an explanation isn't it.

So that would mean that the earthing from the box that holds the 100A main breaker, that is connected to the same ground wire from the PEA pole, should also be removed?

[Crossy]

So that would mean that the earthing from the box that holds the 100A main breaker, that is connected to the same ground wire from the PEA pole, should also be removed?

I get even more miffed when people patronise me.

You have not answered any of my questions.

And no, you should not separate the ground of your breaker housing from the supply ground.

EDIT the simple rules for a domestic situation (things are different in an industrial system):-

Keep all power grounds connected together and to a single rod (that is NOT the supply authority's rod outside).

Keep communications grounds connected together but isolated from the power ground.

Keep your lightning protection grounds connected together and separated from the power and communications grounds.

[stoneyboy]

So that would mean that the earthing from the box that holds the 100A main breaker, that is connected to the same ground wire from the PEA pole, should also be removed?

I get even more miffed when people patronise me.

You have not answered any of my questions.

And no, you should not separate the ground of your breaker housing from the supply ground.

Some people simply are beyond help.

It's all to often on here now I'm afraid.

Opening posts which contain much obfuscation and people simply refuse to assist after their first post.

Shame because people like yourself go out of their way to assist others.

[Anthony5]

So that would mean that the earthing from the box that holds the 100A main breaker, that is connected to the same ground wire from the PEA pole, should also be removed?

I get even more miffed when people patronise me.

You have not answered any of my questions.

And no, you should not separate the ground of your breaker housing from the supply ground.

EDIT the simple rules for a domestic situation (things are different in an industrial system):-

Keep all power grounds connected together and to a single rod.

Keep communications grounds connected together but isolated from the power ground.

Keep your lightning protection grounds connected together and separated from the power and communications grounds.

I have no intention to patronize you, I even had to look up the meaning of that word, so my apologies if it came over that way.

I didn't realise that you were looking for answers, because it should be obvious that as a non electrician I don't understand Ohm's law and hardly know the difference between impedance and resistance, but I assume the latter I could look up on Google.

Though I understand logic, so it was it was sufficient for me when you explained that a grounding wire from a mains pole may get an extreme high current during a lightning and which transfers to all connected devices, something that never can happen to a residential grounding rod.

To be honest it was a bit stupid question from me, since I could have figured that out myself if I had taken it further in consideration

[Anthony5]

So that would mean that the earthing from the box that holds the 100A main breaker, that is connected to the same ground wire from the PEA pole, should also be removed?

I get even more miffed when people patronise me.

You have not answered any of my questions.

And no, you should not separate the ground of your breaker housing from the supply ground.

Some people simply are beyond help.

It's all to often on here now I'm afraid.

Opening posts which contain much obfuscation and people simply refuse to assist after their first post.

Shame because people like yourself go out of their way to assist others.

Why don't you just stay out of this, and crawl back under your bridge, instead of trying to stir the pot.