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Posted

I just had a concrete shed built with a flat concrete roof.I need to put a 16 foot lenght of gutter on one side.

I am trying to work out how to go about it.I live so remote that the guys who come and install gutters for you won't come.

I could get a shop to make up the gutter and install them myself but I don't like that angular gutters that they make out of paper thin aliminium.

Does any one have ant ideas on how I would go about it myself.Painting P.V.C pipe is one idea but I need tips on how to do the brackets.

Any other posabitities home made or otherwise.

Posted

Is there any overhang on your flat roof?

Usually roofs are tilted (pitched) so the water will 'fall' off its surface. Without 'pitch' and overhang to allow 'fall-off' you're going to run into issues of water tension, soaking and pooling with the potential of water to getting 'wicked' back into the building material.

The "Internet" says, "Generally, minimum slope for water to run off is 1% (1/8" per 1'). However, minimum slope for a flat roof by building code here is 2%. (1/4" per 1').

You could always put up a fake roof that does have a pitch or put another 'topping' on your roof to create a pitch to handle the rain and that allows water to 'fall' into a gutter of your own design (or a roof that is pitched so the water runs off in another direction entirely).

Posted

The roof is pitched and there is an overhang of 9 inches.

So the back wall where the rainn runs off is damp.

My builder says that that's because the overhang is only 9 inches.

So that's the side where I want to gutter,16 foot straight.

What are the options for guttering in Thailand and how much do they cost.

Posted

I found some upvc gutters online.

I'm now concentrating on finding roundy ones

as angular ones would look terrable on my old world house,

Hence the DIY pvc pipe notion.

Posted

It would probably work better if you could post a few picture from different angles.

While 9 inches is enough to work with, thickness of the roof material will have an impact on how the water tension will break and be allowed to fall into a lower gutter catchment (and not be allowed to 'wick' back to the roof material.

The 'thickness' of the roof material have an impact on how and where the water 'tension' will be broken and allow the water to free-fall into a catchment device.

The roof surface 'shape' (rise and fall, if not completely flat) will have an impact on what options you can apply.

Another alternative, If the surface was perfectly flat , you could just install riser 'lip' all along the edge line (that would prevent the water from cresting the edge at that location) and redirect the water along a lipped edge line to a couple of points where the 'lip' didn't exist and the water could be carried down. That would mean the roof edge line would need to be water proof to allow that water to pool and only exit where there was a break in the 'lip'.

figure-13-roof-drain.jpg

Posted

I don't know how much the roof is oitched but it is quite visable to the naked eye.

The roof itself is about 4 inches thick.

The eves gutter is the one I'm looking for.

I should have a look at it when it's actually raining to see how the water is actually

spilling.

But the main problem now is that I haven't seen a roundy gutter since the 70's

Posted

ISTR reading someplace (thaivisa?) that you could just buy wide gauge PVC pipes and slice them lengthwise. Presumably they would be painted, but I guess they wouldn't need to be. Any comments pro/con from the experts here?

Posted

I saw do it yourself PVC gutters with fixtures in IQ store Buriram. As I remember a 8 metre rig up with downpipe would have cost me about ฿2000.-.

Another solution that has crossed my mind has been buying PVC pipes of a similar diameter and cutting them in half. You could use the usual pipe fitting bits without cutting them. Of course you would need a trusty workshop set up for that, not too easy to do well. (sorry, didn't read the above posting).

Posted

The cheaper plastic (PVC) gutters from the various DIY stores sell Windsor brand which wont last too long, UPVC is far stronger but very expensive. Perhaps consider buying a preformed galvanized steel gutter and painting it with good oil based primer and paint, easy to install and will last longer.

Posted

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

Posted

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

I bet your gutted aren't you ?

Posted

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

When the galavanized gutter makers can make a round downpour, then they can also make a round gutter.

Posted

For an eaves gutter to work properly, the roofing material should extend further than the facia board so that the run off can go directly into the gutter. Look at post #14. If your roof is 4" thick concrete and has no over hang using this type of gutter will be a problem since the space between the gutter and where it meets the roof will have to be sealed. The hangers will also make the gap bigger. A real problem.

Posted (edited)

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

"Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially.."

Four metre lengths already made up are available from a shop near to us in Mae Rim.

Edited by chiang mai
Posted

ISTR reading someplace (thaivisa?) that you could just buy wide gauge PVC pipes and slice them lengthwise. Presumably they would be painted, but I guess they wouldn't need to be. Any comments pro/con from the experts here?

Yep, the old weegee posted that a couple of years ago....it works fine. All you need is patience to cut the pipe first.

Posted

The only one I can find online is HomePro "hoffen" brand,500bht for 3 meters.

There is a Thai Wat Sa Du near me and I suppose they would have a better selection.

Are the metal gutters for sale in the shops or do you have to get them made up spechially..

Still the only way so far to get round gutters is by PVC DIY.The brackets are the thing that would

get me there.

How would you go about this.

Would they make them up in a metalwork shop for me.

How wide should the pipe be

4 inch is ample...

Posted

I'm nearly there.

There are just 2 things I need to decide.

1-Wheather to use 3 or 4 1nch PVC pipe and,

2-What the distance between the underside of the roof

and the top of the gutter should be and.

3-How far should I tuck the gutter in under the roof edge.

Just to clarify,I've got a concrete wall with a flat concreate foor(slightly pitched)

and a nine inch overhang.

Posted

Poor some water on the roof and see how/where it falls.

Small amounts of water should drop straight down the lip/side of your 4" concrete roof material (and hopefully won't wick or run back under)

Larger amounts of water will both drop straight down the lip AND with any speed will lose adhesion to the cement surface and flow off the edge and begin falling downward (sometimes refered to as "roll off"). The difference of these two, Drip and Roll-Off, will determine how wide your pipe needs to be at a given mounting position.

Posted

Good answer RichCor,

I will have a look at it tomorow.

And by the way....what sort of paint should I use,

both fot the PVC and the metal brackets.

Posted

Right Guys,

This thread is realy working out for me.

Keep it up,I'm nearly there.

The roof is suroundes in wet concrete today so I can't go and do

RichCor's test but I red the 3 links ChiangMai sent.

I want to go with the first or second method if the materials are available in Thailand.

I'm going to try to get a matt blact colour.

For the first method I will need Krylon Fusion Paint.Is that available in Thailand.

For the second method I will need a cleaner and some stain.

I'm not sure what I should use for these.

The only thing I learned from the third post is that I don't want to do it that way.

He used bleach as a cleaner and maybe I can use that for method 2.

Method 1 sounds the easyiest If you know where I can get a can of that paint in Thailand

or on line I would be sorted

Posted

The other thing I thought of is how to cut the pipe longways.

The guys on utube all have table saws.

I have a circular saw and an angle grinder.

Posted

You can easily use an angle grinder for that, mark it properly and buy the right blade, take your time cutting. I doubt actually that a table saw would be a good idea for such a task.

Posted (edited)

You can easily use an angle grinder for that, mark it properly and buy the right blade, take your time cutting. I doubt actually that a table saw would be a good idea for such a task.

Spot on....Just make sure you secure the pipe before you mark and cut....If it moves while marking/cutting, you will end up with a mess....

Edited by weegee
Posted

I would think a circular saw could work OK as a blade set at depth would tend to act as a straight guide (as it certainly ain't a coping saw), though I would mark a guide line to follow.

The "Internet" suggests using a cheap 140 tooth plywood blade installed backwards (to give the teeth a negative rake and prevent chipping),

or purchase and install a circular saw blade specifically made for dealing with plastics and vinyl.

Is a special circular saw blade needed to cut plastic?

diy.StackExchange.com | Home Improvement

51vEtIvxD%2BL._SY300_.jpgAbrasive-blade.jpgmarathon-pvc-cutting-blades-1536.jpg

...and as with all things posted on the Internet, please follow their safety guidelines:

do_not_run_with_sharp.png

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