Painting Yellow Power Conuit

[carlyai]

I've got this long run of incoming mains power cable enclosed in yellow conduit.

The conduit is exposed to the Isaan sun and is bleaching to a white colour.

I have read somewhere that you have to paint the conduit or it will go brittle and break down, which I don't want, as then would have to replace it all.

What paint is recommended to paint the elements exposed conduit to protect it from the harsh sun?

If you have an answer, could you please not just say 'a good acrylic paint', as I have that on the house and it is fading fast. (Like me).

[Crossy]

Actually a "good acrylic" is the correct response. Use whatever you use on the house when you re-paint. Or just get a colour you like from one of the big names.

Do not thin the paint at all, you may still need a couple of coats to cover the (now fading) yellow.

In reality, unless the conduit is in a vulnerable location, even if it goes brittle it will remain intact and not need to be replaced.

[carlyai]

Actually a "good acrylic" is the correct response. Use whatever you use on the house when you re-paint. Or just get a colour you like from one of the big names.

Do not thin the paint at all, you may still need a couple of coats to cover the (now fading) yellow.

In reality, unless the conduit is in a vulnerable location, even if it goes brittle it will remain intact and not need to be replaced.

Thanks for that.

Just been reading some of your treads from 2006 when you were involved in tulips.

So a good acrylic is what I'll use and still have some left from the house painting.

If youlre still there, a couple of off topic questions, feel free to ignore them and me:

1. I have one of those u beaut power testers that give a loud 'beep, beep, beep" when near an active conductor, but no 'beep' when near a neutral conductor. I love it and use it a lot, but been reading the tread about the outside fence lights timer switching the neutral, and, strange DC voltages present, so, will my 'beeper' pick up DC?

Is is best practice to use the neon tester as well, although I don't like to stick my thumb on the end connector.

2. Remembering that song 'I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think soooo' (maybe you're too young), I think I'm turning Thai, at least my driving has really deteriorated, so I'm on the right track, and I have this urge to set up some LED flashing lights, about 18 m of them.

When I was a young trainee I built up some strobe lights that flashed with the different frequencies from my stereo.

I spose they now have LEDs that do the same and I was wondering if you have experience with them?

[Longtooth]

Actually a "good acrylic" is the correct response. Use whatever you use on the house when you re-paint. Or just get a colour you like from one of the big names.

Do not thin the paint at all, you may still need a couple of coats to cover the (now fading) yellow.

In reality, unless the conduit is in a vulnerable location, even if it goes brittle it will remain intact and not need to be replaced.

Thanks for that.

Just been reading some of your treads from 2006 when you were involved in tulips.

So a good acrylic is what I'll use and still have some left from the house painting.

If youlre still there, a couple of off topic questions, feel free to ignore them and me:

1. I have one of those u beaut power testers that give a loud 'beep, beep, beep" when near an active conductor, but no 'beep' when near a neutral conductor. I love it and use it a lot, but been reading the tread about the outside fence lights timer switching the neutral, and, strange DC voltages present, so, will my 'beeper' pick up DC?

Is is best practice to use the neon tester as well, although I don't like to stick my thumb on the end connector.

2. Remembering that song 'I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think soooo' (maybe you're too young), I think I'm turning Thai, at least my driving has really deteriorated, so I'm on the right track, and I have this urge to set up some LED flashing lights, about 18 m of them.

When I was a young trainee I built up some strobe lights that flashed with the different frequencies from my stereo.

I spose they now have LEDs that do the same and I was wondering if you have experience with them?

Inductive testers will not detect DC. The common spray paint will offer protection too, if that's easier.

[Crossy]

Cripes, is it really that long since I was in Rotterdam? Must contact RET, soon be time for an equipment upgrade

As Longtooth notes the proximity detectors won't see DC, they require to see changes in magnetic field.

In reality, unless you have solar you're unlikely to see significant DC components on mains wiring so one can reasonably assume that if the tester says dead (and says live on a known live), then dead it is. Use a neon as backup if you wish.

"Turning Japanese" was The Vapors, 1980 so I was 30 ish

I built a 'sound to light' when a youngster too. IIRC it was in a magazine called Everyday Electronics, went bang a couple of times. LEDs are soooo much easier to manage than mains lamps. Kids today don't know how easy they have it

I later graduated the reading Electronics Today International and Elektor.

[carlyai]

Thanks for the reply and the song.

You've changed my life Crossy with that song.

I can really feel that extra 10 Kg of 'muscle' around my mid section, and the song has triggered a deep feeling im my loins to get 'trim, taught and teriffic' again and stop being a Fat Bastard.

Motivation and abstinence (and maybe a couple of beers tonight) is all I need.

Here's some pics of the conduit.

You can see where the overhead wires SHOULD have gone, with the second bare post (Pattaya Club is correct, never leave the site while work is progressing). Anyway the conduit's all fine on top of the fence. Spose we've broken a few PEA regulations there?

The other wire hanging around is the CAT fibre.

Thanks again.

[RichCor]

I believe most of the damage to the integrity of PVC, CPVC and ABS will be from UV (Ultra Violet) radiation exposure encountered over time.

PVC exposed to UV radiation will incur a change in impact resistance, but no effect on tensile strength (pressure capacity) nor modulus (pipe stiffness).

As someone already suggested, some spray paint with heavy UV protectants would work. Almost as good as Thai sunscreen.

The most common 'additive' for UV protection is titanium dioxide.

From the "Internet":

When exposure in excess of two years of direct sunlight is unavoidable, PVC pipe should be covered with an opaque material while permitting adequate air circulation around the pipe (to prevents excessive heat accumulation)

If you decide to paint it, first rough it up a bit with sandpaper, (to make the paint stick better), then use a paint which is made for plastic, AND opaque to UV

If using a Spray Paint make sure the spray does not react with the PVC to degrade it

If pipe is to be painted, a water-based paint formulated for outdoor/exterior use is recommended. Oil or solvent-based paints may damage the pipe and/or not adhere well.

In order to minimize the heat build-up, white or light-colored latex or acrylic paints are best.

White or Silver will reflect the most rays, while Black or a dark color will absorb the rays changing them to heat

[carlyai]

I believe most of the damage to the integrity of PVC, CPVC and ABS will be from UV (Ultra Violet) radiation exposure encountered over time.

PVC exposed to UV radiation will incur a change in impact resistance, but no effect on tensile strength (pressure capacity) nor modulus (pipe stiffness).

As someone already suggested, some spray paint with heavy UV protectants would work. Almost as good as Thai sunscreen.

The most common 'additive' for UV protection is titanium dioxide.

From the "Internet":

When exposure in excess of two years of direct sunlight is unavoidable, PVC pipe should be covered with an opaque material while permitting adequate air circulation around the pipe (to prevents excessive heat accumulation)

If you decide to paint it, first rough it up a bit with sandpaper, (to make the paint stick better), then use a paint which is made for plastic, AND opaque to UV

If using a Spray Paint make sure the spray does not react with the PVC to degrade it

If pipe is to be painted, a water-based paint formulated for outdoor/exterior use is recommended. Oil or solvent-based paints may damage the pipe and/or not adhere well.

In order to minimize the heat build-up, white or light-colored latex or acrylic paints are best.

White or Silver will reflect the most rays, while Black or a dark color will absorb the rays changing them to heat

Thanks Rich,

Nice to hear from you again.

What happened is that I have been reading some past treads on the electrical forum about brittleness in exposed PVC over time.

And, a long time ago, SWMBO decided to use the power pole we didn't use, to hang a bunch of racing LED's and flashing LED's which the builders installed wrapped in plastic bags, as you do with outside electical stuff.

Not wanting to 'upset the apple cart' and SWMBO not responding to me saying 'the place looks like a short-time motel', I left it all there but installed a RCD in the outside CU.

The other day I decided to switch the display on and (using a wooden stick), I touched the switch thru the plastic bag, and it just disintegrated, like a fluro shattering.

Mind you, the LED lights and cabling are for inside installation and not sposed to be left in the monsoon rains and Isaan sun.

So reading the past Electrical Forum posts about brittle PVC, and seeing this plastic switch disintegrate made me think I should do something about the conduit and hence the question to the forum.

Thanks again

[lopburi3]

I suspect the new glass bead type paints would be ideal for protecting plastic from sunlight. Such as Miracool (and know there are others made here designed to keep homes cool by reflecting the sun),