6am start from Khon Kaen, with the Wave strapped to the back of our pickup ready for plan A.

Arrived at Nong Khai border crossing and did all paperwork for Wave 110, but when we attempted the leave Thailand, the police told us the Lao cops would send us back as they don't want small bikes there. So that was a waste of time then, but learned later that had we crossed in Loei province we would have got through, or at least the Thai couple we met said so and were on their Wave in Laos when we met them.

So Plan B, taxi to Vientiane, hotel, find a hire bike. Now being a hire bike, my number one priority, stuck in my head, was "reliability" due to my very limited ability to walk. Well, it worked in VN, so got a Wave machine that could be easily fixed by every TD&H, or rather "Yamaha Spark" and the ride out of the city heading north to Lunag Prabang soon had me thinking about doing a U-ee. Km after km of arse-busting bumps and unavoidable potholes.....never never never again will I ride that road on anything but a hovercraft.

However, I was too busy fuming at being fleeced by two young police kids in Vientiane, 1,200 baht for doing an illegal left turn, under threat of having to wait 3 days for the police station to open, to get my licence back if I didn't give them their cash.

So at the end of that grueling day arrived in Vang Viang and found a great backpackers hotel/hostel. Nice place 60,000Gip all mod cons.

Day 2. We rested our tired in this rather pleasant tourist town with just a trip down to the river on the bike. Western style meal, forgettable, but there you are.

Day 3. Loaded up the shopping trolley and made it to Ban Pakkhan, too nackered to get the Laung Prabang.

En-route bike had sounded a bit rough on the hills, so had an oil change, which made a difference. Later had flat rear tyre luckily just 10 metres from a repair man, found inside wall was slightly damaged and had worn through the tube. New tube fitted as no wide tyre available.

Aside from the sore backsides I had another problem, the luggage on the back had set my pillion a couple of inches further forward and every time we braked, or worse still went down a step hill, I had an extra 50kg pushing on my wrists. So now a sore arse and wrists/arms to match..not good.

Day 4 Laung Prabang real nice hotel 70,000Gip and looked around the city, studied our map, decided on a more southerly circuit for tomorrow. Found a bike repair shop and had nice new rear tyre and correct sized tube fitted. While the wheel was off decided to check wheel bearings and glad I did, one practically seized and rotating in the hub the other bone dry, so new bearings, one had to be shimmed due to hub wear. Rode off up the road and then turned around and came back to get the front done too... TBS.

With the discomfort in mind came up with two solutions:-

1 Relocated the luggage further back, slightly obscuring the brake light WTH, which absolutely cured the push in the back, as she was now sitting on the flat of her seat and able to hold on too.

2. Folded towels on the seat, which helped with the seat comfort...somewhat.

Day 5. Headed back down south but turned left along highway 7 (Northern Heritage Route) the roads getting better all the time. Bike running well and the two towels able to ride a little better and further between breaks. This is a nice road, wishing I had more power to enjoy the twisty hillys, but still the odd surprise pothole and minor landslide damage to keep me awake. Found nice Guesthouse midway between Ban Manchat and Ban Prainglodang, stating to get chilly during the day, so added a thermal vest.

Day 6. Still on highway 7 arrived hungry at high pass town of Phonsavanh, had pizza in an effort to get some heat inside my tired old body, temperature only just bearable. Visited the bombed sacred site of "Plain of Jars", don't we all just love the US military and their love of bombing? Thousands of years of history destroyed, huge amount of hard work lost, buggad by mindless ..just to make money... and so it goes on, leave it Allan.

Just before the cold set in, found a nice new guesthouse/motel, 60,000Gip.

Day 7 Heading for and hoping to make Paksan, it was starting to get cold, when suddenly the nice run down to the Mekong, turned into a challenge for man/woman and machine. First gear hills and tight hairpin after hairpin, getting higher and higher..and a biting blustery wind had the bike meandering and, me freezing my nuts off.

After about two hours we made it down the other side and called in to refuel just in time, as we were running on fumes from the tiny 2.5 litre tank. We had noticed that the milestones no longer displayed Paksan, so checked with the lady there to see if we were still right, although we hadn't turned off.

Doh! Somehow we had turned off and onto a road not shown on our map, or rather the road had turned off and we didn't. So choice one, go back over that mountain now 75km and colder than ever, or continue on into the unknown.

Now 3pm, talking to a few locals....(MrsB speaks fluent Laos, but has trouble withe the mountain accent).

Choice 1. 75km over the mountain, plus a 25km run down the right road, then a suspension destroying 40km down into Paksan. = 140km

Choice 2. A nice mountain road, pick up highway 8, down to the Mekong and back along to Paksan. = 240km

We chose the latter as it was clear making Paksan was out of the question either way.

As it got later in the afternoon the temperature plummeted and the wind grew stronger...and whilst I am a big strong expedition hardened Brit (well maybe 100 years ago I was) MrsB was not amused.

Each village we passed we hoped to find a nice snug guesthouse with a big fire roaring, a welcoming Lao girl with a nice bowl of Goulash soup....guess what....it begins with an "N"?

Finally as we arrived at the highway 8 at Ban Pakha, we were told there was a guesthouse just up the road.....yeh right. I had heard the expression "not far" before, which can mean, well somewhere on planet Earth.

After another 1/2 a cold hour we saw "A sign", no not the baby Jesus, a Guesthouse sign, which turned out to be...well a similar place to where the kid was born....a stable. At 50,000gip, a small grubby room, a mattress of sorts, a squat down boghole and a cold tap. We were told to bring the bike into the room or it would get nicked, so at least we had some furniture in the room now.

Two small thin duvet thingys and two grotty pillows, we were so tired we both slept and yes I was glad my traveling companion was a chick...SNM. Cuddling geezers was never my first choice.

Welcome to Ban Something or other, "the town with no name"...and you are.

Day 8. Woke at 5am and waited for sunrise at 6+, breath cloud clearly visible, so wearing everything we had, two Michelin Men on an khaki scooter as we headed off into the chilly abyss. But after a couple of hours or so through the mountains we arrived at the highway 13, which follows the Mekong/Thai border.

Sill only 9am after breakfast we thought we could make it back to Vientiane and back home in Khon Kaen that night. So day 8 was a 300km thrash at speeds up to 60kph!. You sports bikers would have been proud...

Dropped the bike off, 500baht taxi back, easy, quick crossing back into Thailand at about 8pm and into that lovely soft seat of my Isuzu Highlander. Home for 11pm.

Conclusions:

1. Wrong bike no matter what, but I am sure many of you knew that anyway, but got us home safely.

2. Great country, but no flat areas anywhere bigger than a manhole cover, you are either ascending, or descending, often steeply.

3. Mae Hing Song loop is next, which will be cakewalk and on a bigger bike too..Looking forward.

4. Got the kit about right, could have needed a cape, we were lucky, two pairs of women's tights, climbers will recognise that...and that's it.

Tips:-

1. Go visit Laos on a bike..it's a must, avoid north road out of Vientiane.

2. We were told the road up from the Loei crossing, up highway 4 is great, so that's what we will do next time. 2 days ride from the border to Lang Prabang.

PS Just read about Papa Al, sorry to here that mate, we were lucky...

Photos to follow........

Edited December 20, 201510 yr by seedy
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Nice write up of you adventure.

Thanks.

papa okay.

Laos 2-mor or next day.

how many K total?

Nice trip report Allan, looking forward to the pics.

Just a couple of days and a friend and I are making also a Laos loop from what I read have to pack some warm gear.

We are planning on crossing at Nong Khai, do 250 Off road bikes are considered big bikes in the eyes of the Laos border officials/police? I did crossed at Nong Khai before on a KLX 250,we were the only bikes at the time indeed no scooters.

Were did you park your car? I assume there is a safe ( guarded) carpark near the border, since we will be taking the bikes in a van to the border.

A 250cc off road bike would be just ideal, especially solo, wish we had the Lifan 200 on that bad road, but no green book yet. You would survive hitting most of the potholes with big wheels on a KLX/CRF.

As I said women's tights will keep your legs warm, Papa Al is a cross dreeser so he can tell you.

If you are going deep into the mountains maybe take a sleeping bag, as nowhere has heating and there must be other "basic" hotels up in the sticks.

Windproof nylon overjacket would work and keep the rain off too, we were lucky and missed the rain, but heavy mountain mist early morning, late evening.

Be careful of the fuzz there, unlike Thailand they came after us on their bikes, do something wrong leg it and take evasive action, left, right and so on..bastards they are.

Be careful on those twisties, they are very tempting to give it some, but you could come a cropper, also there are rockfalls, loose stones and wet areas.

Stay safe.

One thing we did think of is looking up an emergency services number, just in case, out Thai SIM cards worked for that.

Nice trip report Allan, looking forward to the pics.

Just a couple of days and a friend and I are making also a Laos loop from what I read have to pack some warm gear.

We are planning on crossing at Nong Khai, do 250 Off road bikes are considered big bikes in the eyes of the Laos border officials/police? I did crossed at Nong Khai before on a KLX 250,we were the only bikes at the time indeed no scooters.

Were did you park your car? I assume there is a safe ( guarded) carpark near the border, since we will be taking the bikes in a van to the border.

Sorry missed your last question, a hotel just a short walk from the border near 7/11, can't recall the name but we just asked. Cost 80baht/day.

I just got back from Laos. 2600 km all up. Just washed the bike. Too tired to write a narrative now. Will try tomorrow.

Nice one Allen, a great refreshing read, yep, wrong bike lol !!

When I go to Vientiane via Nong Khai I park my bike in the car park right next to Thai customs at friendship bridge, should work for cars/pickups too, free & so far anyway no problems, hopefully no one will nick it as with a Thai plate on they'd probably assume it belonged to one of the customs officers, of course fingers crossed that one of the customs dont nick it lol....

Nice write up. Thank you. Your girl's a trooper: she reminds me of a canary in a coal mine. When she's unhappy it's probably a good sign you should take a break. And good Laos translator, good job. Not sure if there is a good way to do it with two people on a bike. The bigger heavier bikes, like a beemer or whatever, impossible to find/rent. And a lot heavier to deal with. Good effort!

Yes i know what you mean about the roads

and the drivers, i have a motor cycle to use

if i want,, i'll keep using the push bike for now

it's easy, go slow and go anywhere in the city.

By the way as for Gips, do you man the Laos

money that is Kip,and don't use coins,, i love it.

Great report. I want to do a similar ride and have a big Ducati. Any tips or advice on taking it across the border and back?

Ty for that nice reading

Day 1 : Sri Racha to Tha Li, Loei. Up the 21, straightforward, around 700 kms. Stayed Intira Green Resort, 500 Baht, excellent value.

Day 2 : Tha Li to Luang Prabang. Arrived border at 7:58am. Border opens 8am so that was lucky that I didn't turn up earlier. Big rush of Laos crossing the border as the gate opens. All over in 10 mins. Completed Thai side in 25 minutes. Cost = 0 Baht. Customs woman was very attractive. Laos side. Border guard stopped me to practise his English and cursory search of bag. Laos paperwork (visa, immigration, customs) took 45 minutes thanks to the border guard. Cost = $35 for visa, 200 Baht for customs, 70 Baht for bike immigration. I was unable to buy insurance, which is usually 200 Baht as nobody from the insurance firm had turned up that day. Roads to Luang Prabang were good by Laos standards, just the usual potholes. The bridge over the Mekhong is fine. Stayed New Phou Vao Hotel 200000 Kip = 900 Baht, not good value. Woken up at night and told to bring bike into hotel lobby for safekeeping.

Day 3 : Luang Prabang to Oudom Xay. Road to Pak Mong good. From Pak Mong to Oudom Xay, you are going over 3 high mountain passes. There is lots of road construction going on including large sections of compacted sand. The road must rise to over 1500m in places and you are into the freezing fog. The sand mixes with the drizel-like fog to make an abrasive paste. Combine this with a 10% descent and it is pretty hairy on a loaded 500cc bike. Arrived Oudom Xay very cold with filthy bike caked in sandy mud. Oudom Xay is very Chinese. Stayed Sailomyen, 90,000 Kip = 400 Baht, basic, ok.

Day 4 : Oudom Xay to Bor Kleua, Nan. Attractive route along side the River Beng. Road condition moderately good. Lots of hill tribe villages. Arrived Pak Beng. Pressed on. The Mekhong crossing is 12km up the river. the bridge is almost complete. One boat guy suggested March 2016 as the opening. Another speculator suggested there are major civil engineering difficulties and it will be much longer, including the removal of parts of the almost completed bridge. Who knows? The ferry crossing was the inevitable overcharge. The option is a 400 km detour. 200 Baht to cross the Mekhong. From the Mekhong to the border at Meuang Ngern is 40km on a Thai-built road. Absolutely fine. Feels as if you are in Thailand. Border crossing was completed in 45 mins. Cost = 20,000 Kip = 90 Baht, which might or might not have been related to it being a weekend. Thai side, positively over the moon at something, again who knows? I chanced the 1081 to Bor Kleua. Bad decision. Road is heavily patched and holed. 78kms of juddering. Stayed Bor Kleua View Resort, 700 Baht, ok.

Day 5. Looked around Bor Kleua, including a trip to Khun Nan National Park, Phu Fah Palace and Development Centre and the high view poin in Doi Phu Kha National Park.

Day 6. Nan to Phichit. Great roads for biking through Nan and Phrae. Took the wrong way at Santisuk District. Not sure how I missed the turning. Stayed in Sub Charoen Resort, Route 11, Wang Sai Phoon District, Phichit, 450 Baht, extremely good value.

Day 7 Phichit to Sri Racha. Tried a short cut on the 2029 past Narai Hill Golf Club. It worked out. Ongkharak to Bang Nam Priew, always tons of lorries and huge potholes. 314 always under repair.

2600 kms

Any questions?

Any questions?

Thanks for the great write up. Do you use map, phone for gps, or standalone gps (like garmin)?

Which bike do you use? You mentioned 500cc

Thanks

Map and GPS on phone before setting off. Scribble down directions on a piece of paper. Refer to paper as necessary. If totally confused get the map out. In Laos, I only had GPS when I had WIFI, i.e. in the guesthouse or hotel. In Thailand I have GPS on my tablet through DTAC but there is no DTAC in Eastern Nan and in other places I find the tablet GPS too much of a pain to use at the roadside. I have no GPS set-up on the bike, it is all hand-held. I do have a Garmin but could not download the Laos map. Don't know why. So I didn't take it.

Bike = CB 500X with added 42 litre top box.

Cheers.

Nice write up Al, just about to set off for Laos today and reminds me of some things:-

1 - Avoid the main Vte - Lpb road #13.

2 - Keep real licence separate from out of date IDP - they're welcome to that.

3 - It gets boggin cold there.

Re your MHS loop plan - avoid the C.Mai - Pai road, lots of roadworks, dust and nutters carting backpackers to hippy heaven.

Bruzzz - Big Ducati to Laos? Don't!

Nice write up Al, just about to set off for Laos today and reminds me of some things:-

1 - Avoid the main Vte - Lpb road #13.

2 - Keep real licence separate from out of date IDP - they're welcome to that.

3 - It gets boggin cold there.

Re your MHS loop plan - avoid the C.Mai - Pai road, lots of roadworks, dust and nutters carting backpackers to hippy heaven.

Bruzzz - Big Ducati to Laos? Don't!

Any particular reasons my Multistrada MTS1200 is unsuitable for Laos?

It has navigation, luggage, compliant suspension and I can electronically change the settings on the fly.

I went through Pai to CM last week and it was crap. Roadworks. 70 klms of dust, gravel and slimy mud. It will be great when completed but I would estimate they have another 6 months to go as they are still doing earthworks and widening bridges.

I don't know any alternative routes through Mai Hong Song that don't involve doubling back.

Buzzz

Too big - too expensive - too heavy - too conspicuous. You will only have 3rd party insurance, do you want to risk a 500k bike on roads worse than you experienced from CM - Pai.

If solo, hire a CRF, you will have more fun and probably save more than the hire cost on wear and tear on the Ducati.

I was seriously considering a CB500X this year (have two Ducatis in the UK), then remembered I am going to Laos and would rather go on the CRF anyway.

T.

Allan,

Did the bike rental company compensate you for the tube, tire, oil change, and wheel-bearing work you did on the Wave?

I think I know the answer.

Buzzz

Too big - too expensive - too heavy - too conspicuous. You will only have 3rd party insurance, do you want to risk a 500k bike on roads worse than you experienced from CM - Pai.

If solo, hire a CRF, you will have more fun and probably save more than the hire cost on wear and tear on the Ducati.

I was seriously considering a CB500X this year (have two Ducatis in the UK), then remembered I am going to Laos and would rather go on the CRF anyway.

T.

Thankyou for the advice.

I checked out the CRF. It would be nice to ride but totally inappropriate for me. It's tiny. I'm big and we go 2 up with luggage for a couple weeks.

Sure it's expensive but I already have the Duke and I didn't buy it to let it sit idle in the shed. It is big but thus copes with the payload and is very comfortable for me at 190cm and 120kg and it is quite light for a 1200cc. Just looked at the Honda Crosstourer 1200 and it's 70kg heavier than the Multistrada and the same price. For THB1M I rather the Duke.

Safe riding.

Ciao Bru.