Koh Lipe or Koh Kradan?

[Requiem]

I will be taking vacation around May 10 and thinking where to go for 4 night short beach holiday.

My main interest is a beautiful beach and not too overcrowded. I'm not a party type and prefer to just chill, but wouldn't mind some activity like cycling around the island or do some sightseeing.

I'm mainly interested in Koh Lipe or Koh Kradan, as these have some of the most amazing beaches and are developed (I don't want to stay with mosquitos in a dirty bungalow).

That said, which one to choose?

They look pretty similar to me, but maybe you have been there and know the pros and cons for each and can make me decide?

[Dellie]

If you dont want crowds then Koh Kradan is the only option of those 2. Koh Lipe is far from the calm paradise it once was. It has exploded and there are now tons of hotels and ALOT of people at any time of the year. Been going every year for 10 years but will probably go elsewhere in the future. Just too busy now.

[villagefarang]

My wife just returned from her very first trip to Lipe with friends and absolutely loved it. I guess it has "exploded" for a reason and while some old-timers may be displeased with it not being the way it was, new visitors still seem to enjoy it.

[yogavnture]

i used to go to lipe. but i feel its irresponsible for me to add to the overcrowding thier. its a small island u usedd to be able to walk around it in half an hour. but now the new resorts have built cement walls so i dont think that it is possible. when is thailand going to open up one the other islands in the national park for destruction (development).

[Dellie]

i used to go to lipe. but i feel its irresponsible for me to add to the overcrowding thier. its a small island u usedd to be able to walk around it in half an hour. but now the new resorts have built cement walls so i dont think that it is possible. when is thailand going to open up one the other islands in the national park for destruction (development).

There is allready talk of re developing koh adang and developing koh kham. Sad to see yet another natural paradise be destroyed.

[recom273]

Around 12 years ago, We ( about 15 of us, families with kids ) visited to Ko tarutao - we had the most amazing holiday ever, first staying on andang where there was no great accommodation at the time, but the island was a desert island paradise.

We went to Lipe for a morning - we were shocked by the uncontrolled development - God knows what it's like now. It's also really expensive, as everything has to be brought in by boat.

From there we went to Ko Tarutao and due to family connections got given the bungalow next to the bungalow next to the Kings.

The island itself is spotless, the park accommodation way above what you would expect.

We have been back a few times taking other friends, always staying in the same big bungalow which will house a couple of families.

The island has beaches and history and now electricity. The rangers are there to inform you about the island, they don't just sit in a box collecting money at the gate. We went on a tour of a navy patrol boat stationed there, toured round the island on a truck, walked round the prison, collected shellfish for dinner, snorkel, took a boat trip - there is no bike hire but someone will lend you one for a tip - the food in the restaurant isn't great but similarly, take a poly-cooler with fresh meat and like any national park, the staff will prepare it or find you a bbq.

In the long run its a way cheaper holiday than Kradan although the beaches aren't powder white like butter and certainly more enjoyable than Lipe.

[steveyinasia]

I visited Koh Lipe a couple of weeks ago, not much of the over crowding that people are talking about however the development is happening a lot. Hotels were also outrageously expensive. It's a bit of a trek to get to, flight to Hat Yai, bus to the other side of the land and then a ferry, all up travel time from BKK was around 5 hours.

Once there I found it to be relaxing, if you head out on your own away from walking street. I was about to chill out of the beach with some quiet cafes, again away from Walking Street.

[Requiem]

Around 12 years ago, We ( about 15 of us, families with kids ) visited to Ko tarutao - we had the most amazing holiday ever, first staying on andang where there was no great accommodation at the time, but the island was a desert island paradise.

We went to Lipe for a morning - we were shocked by the uncontrolled development - God knows what it's like now. It's also really expensive, as everything has to be brought in by boat.

From there we went to Ko Tarutao and due to family connections got given the bungalow next to the bungalow next to the Kings.

The island itself is spotless, the park accommodation way above what you would expect.

We have been back a few times taking other friends, always staying in the same big bungalow which will house a couple of families.

The island has beaches and history and now electricity. The rangers are there to inform you about the island, they don't just sit in a box collecting money at the gate. We went on a tour of a navy patrol boat stationed there, toured round the island on a truck, walked round the prison, collected shellfish for dinner, snorkel, took a boat trip - there is no bike hire but someone will lend you one for a tip - the food in the restaurant isn't great but similarly, take a poly-cooler with fresh meat and like any national park, the staff will prepare it or find you a bbq.

In the long run its a way cheaper holiday than Kradan although the beaches aren't powder white like butter and certainly more enjoyable than Lipe.

I was looking at Koh Tarutao and then noticed these 2 lines in Wikitravel:

"Walking is the best way to see the island. The speedboats drop off passengers near the park headquarters building on the north side of the island.

The south part of the island is generally unpatrolled and a report notes that it is run by gangsters and is the location of a human trafficking operation."

[dluek]

Neither are suitable for "cycling around the island." Kradan doesn't have any roads at all, it's just the long north-coast beach with good snorkeling to the east, and then a sandy track leading across the island to the small sunset beach. Sadly the owner of Paradise Lost Resort (Wally, an old Hawaiin sailor) passed away last year; chatting with him was a big part of the fun of going to Kradan. Lipe is a bit bigger but not a large island by any stretch, I always walk everywhere when I'm there. It is a nice walk over to the far western peninsula, where there are some viewpoints if you look around off the road. Both are good for taking day trips by longtail boat; from Kradan you can hit Ko Muk's Emerald Cave and from Lipe you can hit Ko Adang, Ko Rawi and Ko Hin Ngam (just don't take one of the polished stones that make up Hin Ngam's beach or you'll be cursed). Kradan has a gorgeous beach but it's best for couples, would get boring quick for a solo traveler. Lipe has lots going on, with some great food and decent nightlife on Pattaya Beach. Both will be fairly quiet in May. Both are expensive for air-con rooms. On Lipe I recommend Gipsy Resort on Sunrise Beach, run by a cool Spanish guy and Moken (sea gypsy) guy who was born on Lipe and received a solid education on the mainland. They're fun to chat with.

[dluek]

PS don't listen to Wiki, a few of their guides are decent but many are really poor -- overall it's very inconsistent. Walking is definitely not the best way to get around Ko Tarutao, that's ridiculous. It's a huge island, would take several hours to walk from Ao Molae (where the park headquarters, pier and most acccommodation is in the north) down to any of the other beaches or the old prison site on the east coast. I usually rent a bicycle to explore but that's tough too, as the road is extremely hilly and it's a solid 12 km ride down to either coast. The bikes aren't that great, last time the pedal fell off the one I rented and I had to wait for a ranger to ride past and then go grab a wrench to fix it. The other ways are arranging a songthaew or longtail boat -- both expensive. I've found the NP staff at Tarutao to be really lazy and unhelpful for the most part. The accommodation that I've stayed at is typical Thai NP fare: rock-hard bed, cold water shower, fan, quite a few spiders, electricity shut down at around 11:00 pm. The beaches are really long but the water isn't as clear as at Lipe or Kradan, and jellyfish can be a problem. The restaurant closes at around 8:00 pm and there's no WiFi on the island. Tarutao is really only good if you want a really rustic experience and you like to take on serious cycling trips.

[dluek]

Actually you know what, Tarutao closes for the year on April 30 anyway. Here's solid info for Ko LIpe: http://www.travelfish.org/location/thailand/southern_thailand/satun/ko_lipe

Just search on that site and you'll find a similar page for Ko Kradan.

[Requiem]

Actually you know what, Tarutao closes for the year on April 30 anyway. Here's solid info for Ko LIpe: http://www.travelfish.org/location/thailand/southern_thailand/satun/ko_lipe

Just search on that site and you'll find a similar page for Ko Kradan.

Thanks! That's very helpful.

[off road pat]

i used to go to lipe. but i feel its irresponsible for me to add to the overcrowding thier. its a small island u usedd to be able to walk around it in half an hour. but now the new resorts have built cement walls so i dont think that it is possible. when is thailand going to open up one the other islands in the national park for destruction (development).

There is allready talk of re developing koh adang and developing koh kham. Sad to see yet another natural paradise be destroyed.

Yes,...there is no limit to what power and money can do in Thailand....There is no plan to keep those beautiful places out of developers hands...

They will al go the way Phuket and Koh Samui went....!!

Enjoy them while you still can.....

Best regards.

[kbelyeu]

We absolutely love Koh Lipe and usually stay in a pool access room at the Akira Lipe resort hotel on Pattaya beach.

Kurt

[Razzler1973]

Went to Koh Lipe last summer and it was far from overcrowded, a lot of stuff shut in low season, weather was absolutely fine (rained one day). Very relaxing place, small, water was amazing (even in low season)

Stuff is more expensive cause they're quite far from mainland and they don't grow anything there. Can still get fried rice, pad see ew, grapao type dishes for 60 or 70 baht, Isaan food stall 50 or 60 baht

Beers in bars were 60 or 70, fine

Accommodation more expensive but can get very good places 800, 900 baht, aircon, etc but stuff right on the beach a lot more, can pay 1000 with no aircon purely cause near the beach, you'd expect that these days though

[buythisdashcam]

Koh lipe is dead, any other alternative apart from Cambodia ?

[recom273]

Ahh .. OK, so I get the VIP treatment on Taurutao ..

Yes, the restaurant closes early, but it's purpose is to supply food, not entertainment .. I have stayed at a few NP's and never just rocked up with a pocket full of cash and expected appropriate service. You need to think out of the box, if you don't want to eat fish, buy a chicken from the market, if you want a tour - make sure you have a spare bottle of whisky.

Human traffickers - it's the far reaches of Ko Rawi. Still shocking business but it's not Ko Tarutao.

Hard beds - OK whatever, but the only place I have seen hornbills in the wild is Tarutao - I think that's a fair trade off.

Check with the ferry companies in Pak Bara before deciding the place is dead.

[jphasia]

Are there any cash machine (ATM) in Koh Lipe?

[recom273]

Are there any cash machine (ATM) in Koh Lipe?

Apparently there is .. Guess where ?

Outside 7-11 .. That's progress for you.

[jphasia]

Are there any cash machine (ATM) in Koh Lipe?

Apparently there is .. Guess where ?

Outside 7-11 .. That's progress for you.

Thanks. I might had asked if they are any 7-11 actually...

[Razzler1973]

Yes, just one 7/11 but it's so small anyway think they'd struggle to bother placing another one

As mentioned, ATM was opposite

I did notice some money changer type places ( I think ... vaguely remember seeing the signs) but they were closed in low season when I was there, maybe a couple of them and near the 7/11, if I recall

[ExoticMatter]

... Lipe has lots going on, with some great food and decent nightlife on Pattaya Beach. Both will be fairly quiet in May. Both are expensive for air-con rooms. On Lipe I recommend Gipsy Resort on Sunrise Beach, run by a cool Spanish guy and Moken (sea gypsy) guy who was born on Lipe and received a solid education on the mainland. They're fun to chat with.

I am staying at the (8 years old) Gypsy Resort and we stayed here 3 years ago, not much has changed, same prices for bamboo fan rooms with toilet (850 baht). The ownership is shared between a friendly Spanish guy (Roberto) and Kong (sea gypsy islander). There are 40 rooms and its usually fairly well booked up and tends to attract the more traveler types (not so many now on Ko lipe)

The restaurant is ultra low key with an excellent view of sun rise beach, in a quiet corner and closes early but there is a cool little bar right next door that keeps going.

Are there any cash machine (ATM) in Koh Lipe?

I counted at least 3 ATM's

[jphasia]

Are there any cash machine (ATM) in Koh Lipe?

I counted at least 3 ATM's

Thanks. I never worried to get cash in Thailand because there are ATM's everywhere but never been to Lipe. So as i saw the topic and going there next week, Lipe seems very small and quite far, i wouldn't have any surprise.

[ExoticMatter]

When we came to Ko Lipe 3 years ago, we were lucky enough to catch the end of the full moon parties (mialuna). I believe they ended in April 2013, the organizers told me in february they were thinking of ending it because the island had become too commercial and crowded and kept to their word (I wonder where they have gone to now ?)

The good of Ko Lipe

The food is great for an island 90 km from the mainland, in fact we get better food than in Phuket and if you shop around Thai style its not expensive.

The beaches are lovely and there is good snorkeling within walking distance from the beach and some excellent island hopping.

There is still a local friendly heart to the place (old timer sea gypsies)

There is still one of the most mixed and cosmopolitan groups of people from around the world on any island I have been to in Thailand, Thai, mixed European, Chinese and even some south Americans make it this far, most balanced IMO.

The not so good

In 2013 there was no traffic and few roads, everyone walked basically, and only food and supplies were moved around in motorbike side cars. Now there are many more roads and much more traffic, I would say at least 30 vehicles racing around the island, including about 10 taxis. There is actually a rush hour of sorts (if you define 5 motorbikes as a traffic jam!)

High end (resort and spa types, yeeks!) development is taking over parts of the island and ripping the heart out of it. The Andaman resort has attempted to wall itself from the rest of the island and it is one of the routes to sunset beach next to the chaolay village.

The bar coolness party vibe atmosphere is fast dissappearing, I put this down to high end hotels with 2 week package tours, the commercialization is taking over, the 'fun-ness' is being taken over by (weighty) bums on seats for max profit per square metre.

Staying near Pattaya beach is not recommended as its the main gateway (floating pier) for inbound/outboud passengers and is noisy, dont expect a quiet swim there.

Tips

Goto where Mialuna used to be (road signed paradise moon party) nr sunset beach but with its own small cove) if you want a small beach to yourself.

Stay somewhere on sunrise beach, its quieter and more chilled out, and you can join the yoga and couples watching a beautiful sunrise if you're early enough

[ExoticMatter]

...Thanks. I never worried to get cash in Thailand because there are ATM's everywhere but never been to Lipe. So as i saw the topic and going there next week, Lipe seems very small and quite far, i wouldn't have any surprise.

Try to go the land route via Krabi/Phuket, the boat ride from phuket is tedious and long (as in 8 or 9 hours long) and it stops at the mainland and Ko Kradan on the way.

Best way is a minibus straught to Pak Bara, then take the 2 hr fast speed boat and do the zippy 90 km to Ko lipe, otherwise you are doing 190 km in 2 slow boats from Phuket.(or fly to Hat Yai and goto Pak bara if from Bangkok)

Edited April 7, 2016 by ExoticMatter

[laolover88]

Wherever! Satun then Ko Kabaeng? Just watch out for the jellyfish when it rains!

[jphasia]

...Thanks. I never worried to get cash in Thailand because there are ATM's everywhere but never been to Lipe. So as i saw the topic and going there next week, Lipe seems very small and quite far, i wouldn't have any surprise.

Try to go the land route via Krabi/Phuket, the boat ride from phuket is tedious and long (as in 8 or 9 hours long) and it stops at the mainland and Ko Kradan on the way.

Best way is a minibus straught to Pak Bara, then take the 2 hr fast speed boat and do the zippy 90 km to Ko lipe, otherwise you are doing doing 190 km in 2 slow boats from Phuket.

Thanks. Actually yes. My plan is to go with my own car from Phuket. I am taking some time off and our original plan is to drive down south. We will stop few days in Lanta visit a friend and will do some day trip around (Koh RoK mainly) then going down to Pak Bara and catch a boat to Lipe. I am familiar with the area, just never been to Tarutao and Lipe area. I might also try a hop to Langkawi for a few days.

[yogavnture]

i used to go to lipe. but i feel its irresponsible for me to add to the overcrowding thier. its a small island u usedd to be able to walk around it in half an hour. but now the new resorts have built cement walls so i dont think that it is possible. when is thailand going to open up one the other islands in the national park for destruction (development).

There is allready talk of re developing koh adang and developing koh kham. Sad to see yet another natural paradise be destroyed.

if they are going to develop another island their. which is going to happen. its dollars. they should at least pick the island best suited for it.

thailand is running out of islands.

[Oue376]

Around 12 years ago, We ( about 15 of us, families with kids ) visited to Ko tarutao - we had the most amazing holiday ever, first staying on andang where there was no great accommodation at the time, but the island was a desert island paradise.

We went to Lipe for a morning - we were shocked by the uncontrolled development - God knows what it's like now. It's also really expensive, as everything has to be brought in by boat.

From there we went to Ko Tarutao and due to family connections got given the bungalow next to the bungalow next to the Kings.

The island itself is spotless, the park accommodation way above what you would expect.

We have been back a few times taking other friends, always staying in the same big bungalow which will house a couple of families.

The island has beaches and history and now electricity. The rangers are there to inform you about the island, they don't just sit in a box collecting money at the gate. We went on a tour of a navy patrol boat stationed there, toured round the island on a truck, walked round the prison, collected shellfish for dinner, snorkel, took a boat trip - there is no bike hire but someone will lend you one for a tip - the food in the restaurant isn't great but similarly, take a poly-cooler with fresh meat and like any national park, the staff will prepare it or find you a bbq.

In the long run its a way cheaper holiday than Kradan although the beaches aren't powder white like butter and certainly more enjoyable than Lipe.

[ExoticMatter]

...Thanks. I never worried to get cash in Thailand because there are ATM's everywhere but never been to Lipe. So as i saw the topic and going there next week, Lipe seems very small and quite far, i wouldn't have any surprise.

Try to go the land route via Krabi/Phuket, the boat ride from phuket is tedious and long (as in 8 or 9 hours long) and it stops at the mainland and Ko Kradan on the way.

Best way is a minibus straught to Pak Bara, then take the 2 hr fast speed boat and do the zippy 90 km to Ko lipe, otherwise you are doing doing 190 km in 2 slow boats from Phuket.

Thanks. Actually yes. My plan is to go with my own car from Phuket. I am taking some time off and our original plan is to drive down south. We will stop few days in Lanta visit a friend and will do some day trip around (Koh RoK mainly) then going down to Pak Bara and catch a boat to Lipe. I am familiar with the area, just never been to Tarutao and Lipe area. I might also try a hop to Langkawi for a few days.

Just been told you can not take money out of an ATM on a visa or mastercard as credit(not sure this counts for all banks), it is only debit visa account types so be warned if you're maxing out your cards!

1 or 2 of the shops/hotels still do a visa/mastercard/foreign cash to baht for around 5-7% but there are no banks. So change your cash beforehand if you do not have a debit facility on your account.

Edited April 9, 2016 by ExoticMatter