Allstars Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 I want to operate my out door light with a timer switch. I purchased a timer switch which has a wiring diagram as in the picture below. I understand that from the indoor switch I go to 1 and 2, but with connections I use to go to the outdoor lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damrongsak Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 I would think it's like the "type a" in the instruction sheet here: http://www.oktimer.com/Uploads/201304/516ad45e2e14b.pdf One side of your line into #3, then one side of your light to #5, other side of your light back to the panel. Odd that it is labeled Single pole, single throw. But the diagram shows a double throw. If you go from your indoor switch to 1 & 2, it seems the timer will be shut down if if the switch is off. Will that mess with the function and timing? There are ways to connect so the module stays "alive" and the wall switch could be used to turn on the light in an override mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allstars Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 20 minutes ago, Damrongsak said: I would think it's like the "type a" in the instruction sheet here: http://www.oktimer.com/Uploads/201304/516ad45e2e14b.pdf One side of your line into #3, then one side of your light to #5, other side of your light back to the panel. Odd that it is labeled Single pole, single throw. But the diagram shows a double throw. If you go from your indoor switch to 1 & 2, it seems the timer will be shut down if if the switch is off. Will that mess with the function and timing? There are ways to connect so the module stays "alive" and the wall switch could be used to turn on the light in an override mode. My timer switch looks the same as in your link and so does the manual. My intention is to have the indoor switch control the timer, e.g switch off - timer off. The timer has an internal battery which should cover 3 years. So I think it is correct to connect the indoor switch to 1 & 2, and which of the other connectors should then go to the lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damrongsak Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 It appears that the relay contacts are "dry", meaning just a switch. So you would move one of the wires that goes to the lamp and connect to #3. Then connect a wire from #5 back to the lamp where you moved the wire. It's like this, but your timer relay is performing the job of the wall switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Live from the supply (NOT switched) to 1 and 3 Neutral from the supply to 2 Lamp to 5 Return from lamp to Neutral (2) Do you want your indoor switch to over-ride the timer? If so connect the switch between 3 and 5. If your timer switch doesn't have a proper terminal block that plugs on to those blades and you use Lucar push on connectors please ensure they are properly sleeved and put the whole lot in a plastic box to avoid accidentally touching something that can bite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allstars Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Crossy said: Live from the supply (NOT switched) to 1 and 3 Neutral from the supply to 2 Lamp to 5 Return from lamp to Neutral (2) Do you want your indoor switch to over-ride the timer? If so connect the switch between 3 and 5. If your timer switch doesn't have a proper terminal block that plugs on to those blades and you use Lucar push on connectors please ensure they are properly sleeved and put the whole lot in a plastic box to avoid accidentally touching something that can bite. Think I should add some more info as it seems it may be important in this case. Outdoor lights are 12V and timer switch is rated at 12V - 220V. 12V transformer which is inside a large waterproof control box outside is controlled by the indoor switch, and I intend to place the timer between adapter and outdoor lights, so that it is operated in 12V. Indoor switch doesn't need to override the timer, since the lights have only an aesthetic function Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Ok, you still need mains to 1 and 2 to operate the timer. Then one side of the transformer output to 3 then lamps to 5 leave the other side of the transformer alone. BUT If you have an electronic transformer it may not like having the load switched, plus you then have your 12V (safe) and mains (lethal) in close proximity, I would switch the mains side and have done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allstars Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Crossy said: Ok, you still need mains to 1 and 2 to operate the timer. Then one side of the transformer output to 3 then lamps to 5 leave the other side of the transformer alone. BUT If you have an electronic transformer it may not like having the load switched, plus you then have your 12V (safe) and mains (lethal) in close proximity, I would switch the mains side and have done with it. I may sound dumb now, but the timer doesn't operate on a 12V dc input, as is my understanding? Below is a picture of the manual. The transformer I have is the type used with a laptop, and I actually keep it powered up 24/7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 7 minutes ago, Allstars said: I may sound dumb now, but the timer doesn't operate on a 12V dc input, as is my understanding? Your timer requires 220V AC to pins 1and 2 to work its electronics. Pins 3, 4 and 5 are isolated contacts which you can use to switch pretty much any voltage you want. As noted use 3 and 5 to switch the 12V output of your transformer, but read my note about electronic transformers. You may wish to find an electrician to perform this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allstars Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 7 minutes ago, Crossy said: Your timer requires 220V AC to pins 1and 2 to work its electronics. Pins 3, 4 and 5 are isolated contacts which you can use to switch pretty much any voltage you want. As noted use 3 and 5 to switch the 12V output of your transformer, but read my note about electronic transformers. You may wish to find an electrician to perform this job. I think I have no problem to perform the job myself in a safe way, as I have done most of the electrical modifications so far by myself and I have studied electrics, but that was more than 40 years ago and I've never worked as an electrician. My problem is that I don't understand how relays and timer switches work. So if I understand correctly now. I go with my mains live and neutral to pin 1 and 2. Then with pin 3 and 5 do I feed my transformer, and from the transformer output I go to the lamps in the same way as I now do? What you mentioned about the transformer not liking the load switching, would that be an issue in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Find a 220V feed (L and N) for the timer 1 and 2 Just wire 3 and 5 as if they were a regular switch to supply mains to the transformer, if you can access the existing switch wiring easily just hook 3 and 5 across it and leave the switch off :) Switching the supply to the transformer won't be an issue (it's how it is working now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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