Water pump best size

[Gonefortea]

Good morning all, finally after some 20 odd years of waiting our location got mains water the big switch on was yesterday. (A few beers were had by all last night in way of celebration) any way I was waiting to see the kind of pressure supplied water has ( not good) I have already installed three water tanks, I like to be prepared, there is enough mains pressure to reach the head of the tanks so all good there re filling them when required. I held of buying a pump till I could get some sound advise as to what might be required for our abode from you fine people. Two bed bungalow requirements for water kitchen and two wet rooms both with  electric power showers and toilets (all hooked up ready to go as they have been for 7 years lol) and the old outside shower toilet. I also want to put in a few outside taps. 

So best sized water pump for a good power shower ect. Many thanks

[Crossy]

There will be many answers on this subject, as many as there are forum members :)

 

I would be looking at something around 250W for a bungalow, loads of choice in that power range. Have a word with your local pump-shop :)

 

 

[CGW]

^ As above, there are lots of variables, you need to decide how much volume and pressure you want? if you are satisfied with low Psi & low volume a smaller pump will suffice, if you want lots of psi, need a larger pump, its as simple as that! :) Hopefully your existing piping is well installed if you decide to go with a higher pressure pump?

[KhunBENQ]

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

There will be many answers on this subject, as many as there are forum members :)

 

I would be looking at something around 250W for a bungalow, loads of choice in that power range. Have a word with your local pump-shop :)

 

 

Not many from me.

250 W (pump with attached pressure tank) should be plenty.

We have such a thing:

http://www.chumsin.com/component/virtuemart/view/productdetails/virtuemart_product_id/313/virtuemart_category_id/254

About 6500 Baht.

 

We have a two story house (ground floor, first floor) and enough pressure on the upper floor for shower and sink simultaneously.

Fully opening a tap on the ground floor is even too much.

[KhunBENQ]

19 minutes ago, CGW said:

Hopefully your existing piping is well installed if you decide to go with a higher pressure pump?

Indeed such a pump puts many botch installations to a test.

Leaking thread connections, taps/faucets.

Worst case are improperly "glued" PVC connections.

[Gonefortea]

9 hours ago, KhunBENQ said:

Not many from me.

250 W (pump with attached pressure tank) should be plenty.

We have such a thing:

http://www.chumsin.com/component/virtuemart/view/productdetails/virtuemart_product_id/313/virtuemart_category_id/254

About 6500 Baht.

 

We have a two story house (ground floor, first floor) and enough pressure on the upper floor for shower and sink simultaneously.

Fully opening a tap on the ground floor is even too much.

Many thanks funnily enough I had seen this model on my trips around Do home. So today I have bought it. 5900bht for this model MITSUBISHI WP-255Q. Just an hour ago finished hooking it up and testing. Fabulous superb pressure to both showers and kitchen. As you eluded to tap half open in kitchen. I wasn't that concerned about the pipe work leaking I had it pressure tested 3 weeks ago as it had been sitting waiting for mains. All was fine then. So no leaks great pressure and now or very soon I'm off for a proper power shower first time in years (not the shower lol) so many thanks to you all.

[Lookme]

I will shortly need to choose a pump for a new build, a bungalow with one bathroom with one simple shower (no heater), one basin, one kitchen tap and an automatic washing machine. Water supply will be from a shallow well, probably no more than 5 metres deep. The well will be right next to the house so not much horizontal pipe.

 

Local builders merchant has several Mitsubishi WP and EP models but they speak no English at all and aren't generally much good with advice. I'm thinking either EP205 or WP205, but which??? What is the real difference internally, and which one is likely to give less trouble over time?

 

I think both types have a built in non-return valve, so do I need a footer valve as well?

 

Many thanks in advance!

[leyali]

[leyali]

I will shortly need to choose a pump for a new build, a bungalow with one bathroom with one simple shower (no heater), one basin, one kitchen tap and an automatic washing machine. Water supply will be from a shallow well, probably no more than 5 metres deep. The well will be right next to the house so not much horizontal pipe.
 
Local builders merchant has several Mitsubishi WP and EP models but they speak no English at all and aren't generally much good with advice. I'm thinking either EP205 or WP205, but which??? What is the real difference internally, and which one is likely to give less trouble over time?
 
I think both types have a built in non-return valve, so do I need a footer valve as well?
 
Many thanks in advance!

Shallow well = borehole? I'm not sure if you can use this kind of pump for a borehole. But if the pump must suck water from below the level of the pump, you must make sure the pip is always full with water, so you will need a non-return valve ( footer valve ) on the end of the pip, else they get only air to suck and no water. Also for the first time you start the pump, you must fill the pump and the pip with water.

[Crossy]

@leyali a lot of these baby pumps are self-priming, you have to fill the pump with water but they don't mind drawing air, handy for those with iffy bores.

 

[leyali]

@leyali a lot of these baby pumps are self-priming, you have to fill the pump with water but they don't mind drawing air, handy for those with iffy bores.
 

Okay, good to know, thanks for the info.

[Lookme]

 

59 minutes ago, leyali said:

 

Shallow well = borehole? I'm not sure if you can use this kind of pump for a borehole. But if the pump must suck water from below the level of the pump, you must make sure the pip is always full with water, so you will need a non-return valve ( footer valve ) on the end of the pip, else they get only air to suck and no water. Also for the first time you start the pump, you must fill the pump and the pip with water.

 

 

Yes, I should have said bore-hole. Some people use the terms interchangeably, but bore-hole is more correct.

 

From my experience of irrigation systems elsewhere, a non-return valve at the top of a bore is enough to maintain prime, and the Mitsubishi pumps seem to have the non-return valve built in. So I'm wondering why people here seem to like footer valves?

 

I have a larger version of the Mitsubishi spec sheet that says "The maximum suction head of the Automatic types is 9 meters". So I'm assuming my 5m bore is well within spec.

 

What I really need to know is how to choose between the WP and EP ranges? Anyone know the internal differences? Am I right in thinking the EP range has the air tank to stabilise the pressure? If so that should considerably extend the life of the motor as well as providing a better experience in the house.

[Lookme]

This thread has a discussion of the differences between the EP and WP range. I will go with an EP, probably 205.

 

If I can find a footer valve I will use one. It will make the system easier to prime initially, as well as provide a fallback if the non-return valve in the pump fails.

 

I also found this info, which says that the EP series is suitable with a water heater and WP is not. I guess the pulsing pressure of the WP series would cause a water heater to constantly cycle on and off. Basically, it sounds like the EP range is just better all round.

[taninthai]

i just rushed in and bought hitachi HITACHI WM-P150XS 150W.....any comments paid 5890 its only for a small 1 bedroom bungalow 1 bathroom and one kitchen sink......homepro recommended it 5 year warranty they will replace same day if any problems.

• Technical Information
• Model: WM-P150XS
• Energy efficiency (EGAT): 5.
• Motor: 150 watt
• Range: 8 meters
• Transmission distance: 13 meters
• Capacity at 12 m: 37-50 liters per minute.
• Capacity at 14 m distance: 36.28 liters per minute.
• Pressure Switch On: 1.4 kg / cm
• Pressure Switch Off: 1.8 kg / cm
• Tube: 1 inch
• Supply: 1 inch
• The number of taps used simultaneously. (Average points): 4-5.
• Altitude difference: 2 meters.

[Misab]

I could need a little help here too. I have 1 rai and want automatic watering of 6 zones. Each zone will be connected to 5 – 6 sprinklers, which I hope can spread at least 3 meters out to each side. The length from the pump out to each zone varies but in some zones the horizontal length will be around 100 meters.  The pump will be feed from a 2000-liter tank. I will use a clock there can water one zone at a time.

My question is what pump should I use?   I know it needs to be a powerful one but I have no idea of what kind of pump I am looking for.

If you know, your comment will be received with thanks.

 

[Gary A]

There are different ways of using a water pump. Our village water pressure drops enough that it sometimes won't make the pressure switch in the shower heater. My pump is an ITC 125 watt. It is plumbed to the toilet, bum gun and the shower. When I first moved upcountry, I bought a cheap water pump. Apparently the inside of the tank was not coated or painted because the water was often rusty. My wife complained that her washing machine was leaving rust spots on the clothes. I then bought an ITC Japanese brand. The first one lasted more than ten years and still worked but it was leaking from corrosion. The end came when I tried to tighten the leaking parts. The screws twisted off. I bought another identical pump and it also has no problems. Even the 125 watt pump has plenty of volume and pressure. Taking a shower or flushing the toilet, it cycles on and off. A larger pump for my use would just be a waste of money and energy.

[Artisi]

On ‎26‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 1:06 PM, Lookme said:

I will shortly need to choose a pump for a new build, a bungalow with one bathroom with one simple shower (no heater), one basin, one kitchen tap and an automatic washing machine. Water supply will be from a shallow well, probably no more than 5 metres deep. The well will be right next to the house so not much horizontal pipe.

 

Local builders merchant has several Mitsubishi WP and EP models but they speak no English at all and aren't generally much good with advice. I'm thinking either EP205 or WP205, but which??? What is the real difference internally, and which one is likely to give less trouble over time?

 

I think both types have a built in non-return valve, so do I need a footer valve as well?

 

Many thanks in advance!

you should start a new thread instead of piggy backing onto this on.

 

[Misab]

On 4/4/2017 at 8:35 AM, Misab said:

I could need a little help here too. I have 1 rai and want automatic watering of 6 zones. Each zone will be connected to 5 – 6 sprinklers, which I hope can spread at least 3 meters out to each side. The length from the pump out to each zone varies but in some zones the horizontal length will be around 100 meters.  The pump will be feed from a 2000-liter tank. I will use a clock there can water one zone at a time.

My question is what pump should I use?   I know it needs to be a powerful one but I have no idea of what kind of pump I am looking for.

If you know, your comment will be received with thanks.

 

 

okay, I make a new thread

[sometimewoodworker]

On 27/02/2017 at 0:21 PM, Lookme said:

This thread has a discussion of the differences between the EP and WP range. I will go with an EP, probably 205.

 

If I can find a footer valve I will use one. It will make the system easier to prime initially, as well as provide a fallback if the non-return valve in the pump fails.

 

I also found this info, which says that the EP series is suitable with a water heater and WP is not. I guess the pulsing pressure of the WP series would cause a water heater to constantly cycle on and off. Basically, it sounds like the EP range is just better all round.

Footer valves are easy to find, virtually everyone who sells water pipe and fittings has them. You will see that all the pumps you have posted need them if they are lifting water even though they all have one in the pump. 

The valve in the pump isn't designed to hold a column of water by itself it needs a footer valve.

[kitjohnson]

I've spent a lot of time trying to find the difference between the EP and WP ranges, but couldn't figure it out. Thank you heaps Lookme for answering it.

 

Now I'm scratching my head trying to work out why the EP-305Q5 and WP-305Q5 are almost identically priced at Boonthavorn. The EP looks like a better pump in every way.

 

On 27/02/2017 at 10:21 AM, Lookme said:

I also found this info, which says that the EP series is suitable with a water heater and WP is not. I guess the pulsing pressure of the WP series would cause a water heater to constantly cycle on and off. Basically, it sounds like the EP range is just better all round.

 

[MuntyC0re]

It's hard to say. There are too many options. Maybe it's better to consult with the local company? For instance, in my Denver house (moved a year ago) I appealed to heating service, http://www.summitheatingco.com/ . Very pleased with the installation and provided information. Better ask the professionals.