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Posted

I have ongoing problems with paint continually peeling from my plasterboard outdoor ceilings,is this common regarding the humidity here or something I,m doing wrong?

My house is a couple of years old all painting was done by the builders,no issues anywhere else except as stated,when I find a peel I scrape it off quite easily sand it and put Beger sealer on,leave 24 hours to dry and 2 or 3 top coats of Dulux outdoor emulsion............give it a month or two and its peeling again in close proximity,if I was back in the UK I would put some PVA sealer on and all would be fine.....what is it here that I,m missing :whistling:

Thanks for any useful replies.

Posted

Plasterboard outdoor ceilings?  If that's the same "gypsum" that is used indoors, I'm surprised peeling paint is your only problem.  Plasterboard, sheetrock, gypsum - whatever is NOT for outdoor applications.  Unknown to me, our builder used the gypsum for the soffits and 3 years later they started crashing down during the rainy season.  While they are easy to replace with cement board soffits, setting up scaffold is a real pain in the ass and not something I can do myself.  But, that's another topic.

 

Anyway... the best paint and the best technique will not stand a chance against the gypsum that absorbs any water coming in contact.

Posted
15 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

Plasterboard outdoor ceilings?  If that's the same "gypsum" that is used indoors, I'm surprised peeling paint is your only problem.  Plasterboard, sheetrock, gypsum - whatever is NOT for outdoor applications.  Unknown to me, our builder used the gypsum for the soffits and 3 years later they started crashing down during the rainy season.  While they are easy to replace with cement board soffits, setting up scaffold is a real pain in the ass and not something I can do myself.  But, that's another topic.

 

Anyway... the best paint and the best technique will not stand a chance against the gypsum that absorbs any water coming in contact.

I used the term "plasterboard" loosely not certain what it is,however our soffits are Shera board which is a fibre cement based product with a life expectancy of 50 years so no problems there.

Helpfull advice I was seeking pity yours wasn,t :sad:

Posted
10 hours ago, owlowl107 said:

I think it's all about the paint. Its not properly picked up.

And what the heck is "picked up"  Beger sealer and Dulux outdoor emulsion are not cheap brands....:wai:

Posted
14 hours ago, tonray said:

Sealer at least 2 coats, each properly cured then paint.

That I can understand,thanks :thumbsup:

Posted
4 minutes ago, petermik said:

That I can understand,thanks :thumbsup:

 

I would try to give the surface a light wipe down with a damp cloth and then dry with fans. Then I would not seal until I had low humidity days, then 2 days between each coat and I think you'll have better results.

Posted

Sorry. Use Beger primer and tinner with water and if you use color painting, mix some color in the primer too. Makes it more easy to paint after primer. Use Beger for painting too.


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Posted

Good advice from leyali.

 

Are you sure you don't have water penetration from the back?

 

We have typical gyproc ceilings in our outdoor bits (this is the really, really hard stuff, not like plasterboard at all). these were primed with thinned emulsion (Toa 4 Seasons Outdoor IIRC) then painted with the same stuff thinned less, 2 coats. It's been fine for 5 years now, no sign of flaking, peeling etc.

 

Posted

Their is a plasterboard here that is mousture proof used in bathrooms we also have it on the ceiling of our porch its green in colour.Did the builder use this type?

Posted

Crosby and Leyali are both partly right. If you paint concrete sheeting from scratch it needs to be wet, I usually hose it down, then the first coat of primer also needs to be thinned with water, say 2 cups to 4 litres, then painted with 2 top coats.

Concrete sheeting is very dry and if you prime it with the paint straight from the tin it will just sit on the surface and peel off after time, the paint needs to penetrate into the sheeting for a better grip. 

Posted
8 hours ago, Black arab said:

Their is a plasterboard here that is mousture proof used in bathrooms we also have it on the ceiling of our porch its green in colour.Did the builder use this type?

Yes that,s the one...on the terrace and carport areas,soffits as I said are Shera board,no problems with them :thumbsup:

Posted
7 hours ago, ejpool44 said:

Crosby and Leyali are both partly right. If you paint concrete sheeting from scratch it needs to be wet, I usually hose it down, then the first coat of primer also needs to be thinned with water, say 2 cups to 4 litres, then painted with 2 top coats.

Concrete sheeting is very dry and if you prime it with the paint straight from the tin it will just sit on the surface and peel off after time, the

7 hours ago, ejpool44 said:

Crosby and Leyali are both partly right. If you paint concrete sheeting from scratch it needs to be wet, I usually hose it down, then the first coat of primer also needs to be thinned with water, say 2 cups to 4 litres, then painted with 2 top coats.

Concrete sheeting is very dry and if you prime it with the paint straight from the tin it will just sit on the surface and peel off after time, the paint needs to penetrate into the sheeting for a better grip. 

paint needs to penetrate into the sheeting for a better grip. 

OK all helpful replies,next time I will wash the area first and take it from there,I,m not talking large areas just small patches.....its the GF,s fault...too fussy :cheesy:

Seriously though I,ve always been a keen DIY guy back in the UK doing any and all tasks,no problem....but this issue was peeing me off :thumbsup:

Posted
Yes that,s the one...on the terrace and carport areas,soffits as I said are Shera board,no problems with them :thumbsup:


Now I'm a little bit confused of the kind of panel you use it. Is it that green one?
there not made of cement its made from plaster with a kind of paper on the surface or is it just white and no paper on the surface and made from cement. If it is the green one with paper, you can't sand the paper, else you get exactly the problem you have. They are not waterproof, only can handle with some humanity. Also have a look on the other side of the panel, is there a wall, air or is it proper made with insulation?
If it the green one, not use water for cleaning, just start with primer and thinner with water.


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Posted

I was just wondering whether your sealer was reacting with the paint causing it to peel,i know it can happen with new paint on top of old i had this problem in uk.

Posted

peeling paint means that the coating has not adhered to its intended surface...remove paint, prepare the surface per the paint's OEM instructions and re apply...

 

this can mean a big mess, I know...on a job once we hadta force a contractor to strip down the steelwork fer a big structure as they didn't follow the required coating application procedure...it was a marine environment with a big corrosion design requirement and they didn't like that...

 

tutsi with a wig and robes: 'and you shall be taken to the place of execution...' etc...

 

 

Posted

Good quality oil based undercoat paint ,two coats. Thin the first coat enough for good absorption  and two days later use direct from the tin, and don't be afraid to use it

just make sure every thing is dry and humidity is as low as possible before you start.

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