Tile on floor tile advice

[EnlightenedAtheist]

I realize that the normal practice is to remove tiles before putting other ones and I realize that with the right pneumatic tools, it can be done quite fast, but if one can avoid the stripping, why not. 

 

I have seen it done. The new tiles were those big heavy tiles, but I also know of one of the tiles that came out and needed extra "something" (grout or mud).

 

If you have done it and it was successful, could you please advise me of the product you used (size of tiles, type of tiles, type of grout, and mud)? Would I need to take any precautions before putting the mud (apart from the usual) or change the consistency of the mud to make it work? What type of trowel (teeth size) would you recommend? Thank you.

[Lamkyong]

i am sure you realize  tile on tile raises the threshold but that aside   another option is to masonry drill holes in the tiles  this will allow better grip  use good tile adhesive   and a notched trowel     

[Mrjlh]

For the cheap labor cost here, strip the floor first. Just a iron bar with a flat blade on the end does a really fast job. Then one layer of a leveling compound to remove peaks and valleys.

 

For this reason:  You need to check every tile on your existing floor. If even one tile moves ever so slightly the floor needs to come up. It means moisture has gotten under the tiles and you are destine for failure even if you lay a new floor over it with more than normal adhesive.  What people don't seem to understand is you are not putting down "concrete" you at laying tile with an "adhesive". Not the same chemical composition or structure.

 

I've seen this done by other's only for them to find after a few years the floor has to be removed and re-tiled.

[EnlightenedAtheist]

35 minutes ago, Lamkyong said:

i am sure you realize  tile on tile raises the threshold but that aside   another option is to masonry drill holes in the tiles  this will allow better grip  use good tile adhesive   and a notched trowel     

 Thanks for the advice.

 

Yes, I made sure the threshold would not be an issue. It isn't.

 

Good idea on the drilling. 

 

Thanks.

[EnlightenedAtheist]

32 minutes ago, Mrjlh said:

For the cheap labor cost here, strip the floor first. Just a iron bar with a flat blade on the end does a really fast job. Then one layer of a leveling compound to remove peaks and valleys.

 

For this reason:  You need to check every tile on your existing floor. If even one tile moves ever so slightly the floor needs to come up. It means moisture has gotten under the tiles and you are destine for failure even if you lay a new floor over it with more than normal adhesive.  What people don't seem to understand is you are not putting down "concrete" you at laying tile with an "adhesive". Not the same chemical composition or structure.

 

I've seen this done by other's only for them to find after a few years the floor has to be removed and re-tiled.

True! Good point about the cheap labour, provided it is done right, of course. 

 

Thanks for the advice of using level. compound as I am sure taking all of the adhesive would be time consuming and such. If the existing tiles appear to be well tiled (flat), there is a high likelihood that they used the level. compound in the first place or no.

 

I have seen some NOT using any notched trowels. Maybe they are using a different "adhesive". I think the notched trowel is a must. No?

 

But, thanks for the warning.

[builder]

You need to use thin set tile cement but be careful of what one they have green no good blue is ok silver is good red is recommended for swimming pools


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[EnlightenedAtheist]

1 hour ago, builder said:

You need to use thin set tile cement but be careful of what one they have green no good blue is ok silver is good red is recommended for swimming pools
 

Great tip! Thanks a lot! Obviously, the better ones are more expensive. That would need to be specified in the contract. 

[BEVUP]

NO - They would not of used a leveling compound ( & wont on the new job )

NO - They did not use any special mixture (due to them using flat trowels ) 

NO - It's level or close to since they just use Mortar & keep lifting the tile as to where the Mortar is required

NO - The tiles are never 100 % secure due to the above ( most the places I know you can hear the tiles pop as you walk ), mainly on the corners & don't drop your marbles as they may crack the tiles due to the hollowness underneath 

NO - They wont use any tools you suggest to use ( even if you buy it for them )

 

[eyecatcher]

....and dont be tempted to "spot" the tiles; in other words like they often do here,  "5 blobs of mortar is good enough because i am too lazy to level out a full bed"

 

Apart from the risk of poor adhesion, you will find the hollow tinny sound of a floor tile very annoying and constantly worrying that if you drop a cup on it, the whole tile will smash....as it will

 

and that could be before or after the grout has already fallen through into the gap

[EnlightenedAtheist]

1 hour ago, eyecatcher said:

....and dont be tempted to "spot" the tiles; in other words like they often do here,  "5 blobs of mortar is good enough because i am too lazy to level out a full bed"

 

Apart from the risk of poor adhesion, you will find the hollow tinny sound of a floor tile very annoying and constantly worrying that if you drop a cup on it, the whole tile will smash....as it will

 

and that could be before or after the grout has already fallen through into the gap

In other words, expect the unexpected or rather plan to avoid it. So, maybe I should do it myself. LOL

[steve187]

to tile onto tile, you need to make sure all old tiles are solidly fixed, tiles will need a de-grease, and be free from any dust /dirt. use a notched trowel about a 8mm to 10mm, the larger the tile the bigger the notch, use a quality thin bed adhesive suitable for the tile being used, if porcelain tile then use a flexible S2 porcelain suitable adhesive, a good brand such as weber, set out the floor trying not to copy the joints from the old tiles, allowing a 3mm joint, allow to dry and then grout again using a good brand. 

 

if the old tiles are not well fixed, and they are easy to remove without disturbing the old cement sand and cement mud, (gobbo) then do so and reskim the old mud using some thin bed adhesive with a metal plastering trowel, to fill any holes/ imperfections, then re-tile using the above method.

 

you should have no problems using either method, i have done so on many many occasions.

[AJBangkok]

I did this for an entire house. Just use this product 

https://www.weberthai.com/en/tile-adhesives/products/cementitious-tile-adhesives/webertai-gres.html

[sometimewoodworker]

On 26/08/2017 at 5:41 PM, BEVUP said:

NO - They would not of used a leveling compound ( & wont on the new job )

NO - They did not use any special mixture (due to them using flat trowels ) 

NO - It's level or close to since they just use Mortar & keep lifting the tile as to where the Mortar is required

NO - The tiles are never 100 % secure due to the above ( most the places I know you can hear the tiles pop as you walk ), mainly on the corners & don't drop your marbles as they may crack the tiles due to the hollowness underneath 

NO - They wont use any tools you suggest to use ( even if you buy it for them )

 

Really? I and my camera must have been hallucinating then. 

 

[steve187]

1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Really? I and my camera must have been hallucinating then. 

 

using pegs and a notched trowel, you can be amazed in Thailand most days.