Crossy

As above the A/C is going to be the killer ???? What size (BTU) are the units (and do they look "old"), what temperature do you set?

In this case I would use the battery as the "source" as it's capable of a much larger current than the inverter. Ideally, a bi-directional breaker would be best.

Please define "enough wattage" so others can assist you in your quest for perfect dryness. To answer the OP, we have a drying rack, clothes go from the machine and either get ironed and hung up or go on the rack if ironing not needed. Never had anything go stinky even when the weather isn't perfect. Perhaps you need to update your laundry technique? We also have a tumble dryer, Madam likes to use it for towels as it "makes them fluffy".

NO!!! It will be 220V 13A!!!

It would be OK assuming the ratings are realistic. I don't like the single-insulated "speaker cord" type wire although it's common here. For an extension that gets moved around, trodden on etc. it's just too prone to damage. If you already have it, it will be safe enough, but if not then one of the smaller power boards from Lazada will do the trick but do check it's really 3 core cable. Or go to the big box stores and buy a 2 or 4 outlet traily (3 outlet might be available) a length of 1.5mm2 3-core flex and a 3-pin plug and make your own ????

@Sophon please can you post an actual link to that item so that it can be purchased?

Well it was just the first line of the first page. Please post an image of exactly what you are looking for.

Yeah, the bottom right is the location. Warning Will Robinson. Warning!!! I'm not recommending any of those, or even guaranteeing they are 3-core. For that matter I'm not sure I'd trust a 100 Baht cord. That's just the first row of the first page, do check very carefully if the cord is actually 3-core, some of the later listings actually have detail of the cord or you could ask the seller what the cord is.

I've already been to Lotus's today so I'm not making a special trip to check and photograph.

Yeah, and it wouldn't pass muster in the UK on anything but the smallest installations. BUT It's the cheapest way to ensure safety.

It depends upon the inspector and just how "inspecty" he's feeling. Official requirement is a front-end RCBO. We passed fine with a UK style split board (actually several sub-boards) but our man spent most of the time gassing with Madam and complaining that the (PEA installed) incoming supply didn't have equal drops between the poles.

Yeah, there are an increasing number of off-brand plug-in boards on the market with breakers that "fit" in Schneider boards. CCS are as good as any of the mid-range Chinese units.

You would normally put the fridge/freezer on an unprotected circuit so that you don't come home to a thawed mess. Unfortunately, with a front-end RCBO in a Schneider box that's not really possible. You could replace the incomer with a regular MCB and then use RCBOs on "risky" circuits leaving others unprotected. However, this is not strictly in line with the Thai regs so you would have to have it done after your MEA/PEA inspection for a permanent meter.

"3 pin extension cord" in a Lazada search nets 2,500 hits. You must check carefully that they are actually 3-core cable. Or get one in Lotus's where you can look at the markings on the cable. Or get the bits and make your own.

We actually had no rain at all yesterday. These downpours can be very localised, I've driven through 2 feet of water in Rangsit and arrived home 15 minutes later to bright sunshine and Madam watering the plants coz it hadn't rained. Localised flooding from rain isn't an issue for us, it all flows into a ruddy great river. Unfortunately everyone upstream also has their rain go into the river. Local level is certainly up a bit today, 101cm below "Worry" and off the green at Pak Kret.

Argh. It really was a mistake removing the laugh icon!

This is our solution to a low door on the feed shed.

Guess who's wearing Harmony Hairspray ????

Is this the standard Thai style concrete/brick/block kitchen counter? If so it should be a relatively easy task to remove the top (probably destroying it in the process) and add a couple of courses or a steel framework (which would be lighter) to the existing structure before replacing the top. Actually, thinking about it why not add a steel framework to the existing top with a new worksurface (sort of like a very low table) and make a feature of the "industrial-chic" exposed structure (and create a "handy" storage space into the bargain)? Your local metal basher should be able to knock something up in a few hours.

Can you post a photo of the area you want to modify please? If it's rendered concrete you could certainly lose the rendering and gain a couple of cm but I wouldn't want to be removing much meat from a structural beam. And of course, making changes like this will kiss any warranty goodbye ???? Humans are very adaptable creatures, bang your head a couple of times and muscle-memory will take over ????

S.K. Universal https://www.sk-wires.com/en/ will likely get you whatever you want. But, you will have to buy a whole roll. Coloured heatshrink is your friend.

@Bandersnatch has a system which would match your requirements. You will need to do some sort of energy use estimate to get an idea of how big a system you will need. Have a look here:-

This might do better in the Alternative Energy forum. If you don't get any responses here PM me and I'll move the thread for you ???? EDIT Moving to Alt Energy

My cards are set up with 2-factor authentication, the perp needs my phone and for it to be unlocked to make an online purchase. A text with an OTP is sent, you enter the OTP into the online purchase site. I'm sure it's not totally secure but it worked well enough when someone tried to use my card details to buy some stuff in the US. I awoke to a bunch of authentication texts and an equal number of "please phone card security" texts. No transactions went through but I still had to get a new card with all the pain that goes with it.