Jump to content

Crossy

Global Moderator
  • Posts

    45,478
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crossy

  1. I would get some green heatshrink/sleeving and sleeve the red. That at least keeps Black = Live and White/Grey = Neutral per Thai (and US/Canada) convention.
  2. I agree 100% on your sentiments on the RCD/RCBOs, essential! Of course, if there is actually a pukka ground in the cabinet of course it should be used, we have to assume our OP's sparks has failed in his quest to find one. Running Class-1 appliances with no earth whatever is unwise, even if we consider they are safe by being fed by and RCD/RCBO there is still the matter of "functional earth". Equipment with switching power supplies or inverters (pretty much everything these days) will have a mains filter many of which have capacitors between L and N and E. These form a high-impedance voltage divider putting the E (and any metalwork) at somewhere near 50% mains. The available current is tiny and of no hazard in itself, but it may give a significant "tingle" to the user which can be disconcerting to say the least. Even a poor earth (building steel) will kill the tingle, it would probably also provide enough current to trip the RCD in the event of a L-casework fault. As an aside, the roof steel of our house actually measures as a better earth than our pukka 2.5m copper-clad steel rod (we have a lot of 16m driven piles). Ufer or concrete-encased electrodes are much better earths than many would expect.
  3. I would definitely NOT do that; the system may well provide an earth but there are likely all sorts of "stuff" in there too. Building re-bar or a metal water pipe (but NOT the fire system) would be much better.
  4. A couple of argumentative posts have been zapped! Let's play nicely, shall we??
  5. Courtesy of Gemini IA (The AI formerly known as Bard). Whether any of these are available here is another matter, also check the spec. of the local variant. EDIT The TP-Link TL-MR100 looks promising https://www.lazada.co.th/products/tp-link-tl-mr100-300-mbps-wireless-n-4g-lte-router-sim-router-network-hitechubon-i1086618841-s2460982891.html Yes, there are several SIM (mobile network) routers that have port forwarding or a DMZ feature. Here are a few examples: Netgear Nighthawk M1 (supports both port forwarding and DMZ) Opens in a new windowwww.netgear.com Netgear Nighthawk M1 mobile router TP-Link Archer MR600 (supports both port forwarding and DMZ) Opens in a new windowwww.tp-link.com TPLink Archer MR600 mobile router Huawei B818 (supports port forwarding) Opens in a new windowwww.amazon.co.uk Huawei B818 mobile router Teltonika RUT955 (supports both port forwarding and DMZ) Opens in a new windowm.indiamart.com Teltonika RUT955 mobile router Peplink MAX Transit Duo (supports both port forwarding and DMZ) Opens in a new windowwww.peplink.com Peplink MAX Transit Duo mobile router
  6. Like a naughty dog, tech absolutely "knows" when people are looking into issues and behaves impeccably Long ago when I did field-service all would be just fine until I left the customer site then it would all go wrong!
  7. There possibly is, but it needs an adaptor which may or may not have come with it. Yup, but most of the kit here is on wired connections (except phones and tablets of course). Agree, except we still don't know if you have a channel conflict with a recently installed neighbour. EDIT You need to have a bunch of evidence to give to your ISP or they will just brush over your issues "you have internet, no problem"
  8. I'm beginning to suspect the router too, it's odd that after WiFi "vanished" the tech reset the router and it's all OK again. Channel conflicts/interference are also still on the board, but our OP will have to do a WiFi survey to check.
  9. Which notebook do you have? The LAN connections aren't always immediately visible (it took me longer than I'm willing to admit to find it on my latest Dell).
  10. Our ToT provided Huawei HG8245H is 300Mbs on wireless.
  11. Since you don't seem to be interested in actually doing any of the checks being suggested could you at least post the manufacturer and model of your WiFi router?
  12. Have you actually tested with a wired connection? Another user nearby that's recently come up on WiFi could be conflicting. Try one of the WiFi survey tools on your phone to check for channel conflicts.
  13. Politics and not Thailand related so closed.
  14. First off try a speed-test to True's own server https://speedtest.trueinternet.co.th/ that should establish if it's a local (connection to you) issue or international bandwidth limiting. Our 1G/500M NT/ToT connection tests as: - On NT/ToT's own speed-test it's not a million miles different. You could then try to https://testmy.net/ which is an international test, choose a server nearest to your main data source.
  15. Yup ^^^, it's déja-vu all over again. They will talk the talk, then the burning-season will end, problem solved. QED
  16. This was 30 odd years ago but possibly still relevant. My ex-wife needed thyroid replacement medication after cancer treatment (not thyroid cancer, I'm not even sure the two were actually related). But even with a regularly taken dose she experienced unexpected and massive blood-pressure drops. These were sufficient to cause her to randomly collapse in a heap. A few minutes later she was right as rain and ready to continue shopping (if I'd managed to persuade the store/mall people she really didn't need an ambulance). Numerous visits to the doc / clinic and adjustments to dose / medication changes really had little effect. Finally resulting in a "sorry, you'll have to live with it". So, here she is 30 years later having used up another husband (my replacement dropped dead of something [probably abject terror] after 18 months of marriage) and several boyfriends, she's "found God" and gone all born-again. Still drops in a heap every couple of months. Sorry to not really be any more help.
  17. Suitable MCBs are readily available here if he should "forget"
  18. Ah, OK missed that. So probably about 50% brightness on a bit of rusty re-bar. Clean up properly, see if you can find some other points not too close to the one you have. It's not ideal but a hose (Jubilee) clip will give you a good clamped connection. Link them together with 4mm2 cable and test again. Once you are happy paint all your connections with acrylic paint to prevent corrosion. Whatever happens you are far better than having no earth at all. Get those RCBOs installed!
  19. @GammaGlobulin would you like this moving to Health for serious responses?? Scabies is pretty nasty, but I'm pretty sure it's treatable at least symptomatically. https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/scabies/diagnosis-treatment/drc-20377383 Common dust-mites are everywhere, are you actually allergic to the beasts or do you really have bed-bugs or similar?
  20. Directly on rusty metal, with RCD/RCBO protection I reckon that will be ok. If here are other points you can connect to, then go with them as well. How bright is it directly L-N?
  21. You wouldn't have a main RCD and also individual ones too. A UK main switch would be an isolator, that would not suit here (there is no DNO fuse here) you need a double-pole MCB. The requirement here is a minimum of a front-end RCBO, but individual ones are of course better.
×
×
  • Create New...
""