Crossy

Nah, that's just a blanket image, you can choose US plug/outlet or EU (Shuko) plug/outlet. Evidently the same unit is available with Aussie and UK plugs too, just not from that seller.

It's a bit more complex as you have to get at the wiring, but one of these would do the trick, get the one with the split CT for ease of use. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/kws-ac300-digital-6-in-1-color-screen-power-meter-home-power-meter-ac-220v-i4513109664-s18310047779.html

There are loads of plug-in energy meters on Lazada, plug into the wall, plug your computer into it, read power. Many also will measure kWh over time, so just run it overnight. Once you have the energy usage multiply by the average price per kWh (calculate it from your last bill) and you will know the answer. One of many on Lazada: - https://www.lazada.co.th/products/lcd-wattmeter-220v-110v-ac-power-meter-us-eu-plug-power-i5166193555-s21876177224.html

For those who are confused go to kickers.proud.seasons and zoom out 🙂

PEA only provide the service to the meter, connecting from the meter to your home is your (or your contractor's) problem. Do you already have a "construction supply" (billed at double the normal rate)? How does that get to the house? Most normal homes have a 15/45 supply (45A max, about 10kW) which is adequate for most users. Have you or your builder done a prospective-load calculation? If it comes out as more than 10kW or so you may be looking at a 3-phase supply 😞

You may find that inside that box is a common "RS" series motor. You won't really know until you get the thing in bits.

Since I started the earlier thread last year our nearest ATM is now 7km away 😞 Even our local food-hut has QR payment. Here's the earlier thread: -

Since these are likely to be brushed DC motors there's no electronics associated other than the overall limit switches that stop the motors at each end. Check the wiring for loose or corroded connections, wiggle terminals etc. Also, check any pivot points that may need lubricating. If the motors are all identical and easily accessed then you could try swapping the "weak" one to another position and see if the weakness moves with it. If it does, time for a replacement motor, zillions of DC motors on AliExpress / Alibaba. If it is actually a weak motor it may be worth pulling the gearbox apart and lubricating.

Do you have a link to a reputable news site please?

Built in to the inverter.

As a Brit looking in from the outside, sometimes I wonder if the US is a glitch in The Matrix!

That works. Check if you need to go larger on conduit because of the cable sheath.

Hardly a world of experience, but one tries to assist 🙂 I would stick to: - =<2.5mm2 - solid conductor 4mm2 - solid or stranded (7 strands) >=6mm2 - stranded (7 strands) THW if running in conduit or VAF-G if not. Most sizes of THW are available as THW(f) which has many fine strands and is much less of a wrestle to get the larger sizes into your conduit. However, care is needed when terminating and, dependent upon the type of terminal you are connecting to, you may need to use crimp-ferrules to avoid cutting the strands.

Long ago when I worked on RN ship systems ALL wires were pink!

I've made a slight adjustment to the topic title for clarity. Yeah, I've heard similar reports, it's a shame but such is life 😞 I've also heard (not officially confirmed) that you can only get a TOU meter if you have an EV or solar. When we get an EV I'll switch everything over to TOU, we are 99% off-grid now anyway. Who needs PEA?

A somewhat extreme example, both these cables are "35mm2", neither is over-size! Rubber insulation is cheaper than copper!