Muhendis

https://shopee.co.th/search?keyword=air conditioner anti vibration rubber pads

I know where you can get some cheap hearing aids if you are interested ????

High up is relative just so long as one's head has a bit of clearance when walking underneath. I'm not so tall but I think I would be hard pressed to avoid cranial damage if it was only 100++ cm up.........

Thank you for your important reply and I take your point re. concrete beam. Do you have any first hand knowledge of AC units falling off?

I want to make a small, air conditioned room using AAC blocks. Has anyone mounted a split air conditioner internal and external units on an AAC block wall?

You have highlighted the "cutting it a bit fine" scenario. The two choices we are faced with when deciding to go solar are; 1. Do we make enough power to run everything at random or 2. Do we build a system knowing that we must adhere to the limitations. Using PEA is a relatively bottomless pit of available power, but making your own power demands paying close attention to what you are expecting for your investment. I have always advised anyone contemplating solar independence to make a list of the equipment you have and the time of day when it is going to be used. I have to say. Most people don't bother and then wonder why they ain't got enough power. The spreadsheet is an absolutely worst case scenario. I did my spreadsheet before I started and came to the conclusion that a 12kW inverter would be required powered by 7kW of panels + 36kW of batteries. I ended up with an 8kW inverter, 7.2kW solar and 36kW batteries. It looks a wee bit underpowered but my wife and I are aware and watch what we run which, most of the time is not a problem.

There is, of course a very un-subtle reason for things getting hot at this time of the year. Inside your all singing all dancing inverter there is something called a charge controller. It spends it's entire life looking, electronically speaking, at the voltage and current coming from the solar panels and dithers around to give you the maximum power as you may require to charge batteries, run air conditioning and keep your beer cool in the fridge. Well there's yet to be invented a charge controller that can work at 100% efficiency so they get hot especially when they are made to do a fair chunk of work. They have to pour loads of charging amps into the batteries and also loads of amps into the inverter which is keeping your house (and your beer) cool.

This is probably his second reborn life already.

We used to do burn-in testing for some products which involved cooking the products which were 19 ch. data reel to reel recorders. We cooked them in a room at 40ºC for 24 hrs then readjusted everything which had permanently drifted. Inverters and charge controllers are a different kettle of fish so they shouldn't succumb so readily to high temperatures. Solar panels however, are massive thermometers and it is therefore in their nature to "throttle back" as temperatures go north. Likewise batteries loose due to permanent degradation when cooked. Less of a problem with LiFePO4's than with Pb but still a problem.

Main concern is, of course, to make enough power to keep the beer cool. ????

You asked a "simple question" and you had an answer. What more do you want. Fact is this has been done to death several times.

The method show in the Qcon drawing is indeed different to the way the worker is doing it. However, I've had a look at the Qcon manual and the method the guy it using is mentioned with pictures. I am particularly interested in this as I will soon be building a new temperature maintained solarbattery, charger and inverter room. Looking at the detail of what is required in the manual is putting me off using AAC blocks a bit ????.

A wall was built between two houses in our village. There was a dispute about the position and the land office was called in to resolve it. They came in a couple of days and the wall had to be dismantled immediately. So they can act quickly if they want.

Thanks for the prices Those Jinko panels are excellent in respect of longevity and with a few extra percent output too. Much better than the "normal" panels. Thermal losses are the same but that is a function of the technology of silicon and is to be expected. Prices look on a par.

Jinko specs are a bit vague in that link but nice too see improvements. If the panel is 1% down at 1 year then looses 0.4%/year linearly, after 30 years you would be 12.6% down from new. Do you have prices for these panels?

The rubber washers @h90 uses won't make any difference to the grounding of the panel frames which is where I understand he is using them. The panel frames are anodised aluminium which means they are insulated. If I remember rightly the anodised coating is good for 1kV so if you want to bond the panel frame to ground you would need to grind off the anodised coating where the connection is made to the frame. Of course, if you do that then you also need to add a bit of protection against corrosion of any bare aluminium. I didn't bother with grounding the panel frames but I added loads of bits of green wire between all individual mounting hardware.

I don't understand what you are worried about. Can you please detail your concerns so that we can put them to rest.

Ha Ha. Yeah, but the context is stupid people as I think you well know and political? How so? Granted politicians would jump at the chance to get an AI to work for them but what is a politician if not stupid. Wouldn't it be fun to see a politician commit political suicide by quoting words from an AI which itself was stupid.

Do you mean the sort of people who tell you to drink disinfectant to cure Covid?

Now I know what I want for my birthday

Yes, that saves a lot of bother. The cable has to be higher rated than the low voltages I had in mind. 2core NYY 1.5mm² would do. It's worth trying to connect your float switch direct to the control box sensor input via your 200metre cable before fiddling around with a relay and 220v mains power. If it works. you don't need the relay and if it doesn't work, you do. Either way you will need that cable.

Looking at the web site, this is the interesting part https://www.daddee.co.th/17073644/ไดอะแกรมปั๊มซับเมอร์สdcbl-แบบคอนโทรลแยก It clearly indicates the float switch connections. The fact that your installer tried it and decided that the wires from the tank sensor to the control box were too long indicates quite a bit of current is needed to do the controlling bit. I would fit a power relay in the control box and use it's N.O. contacts to connect to the control box. The current to drive the relay would come from a small power supply also added into the control box. the circuit would then be from the relay coil down a 1.5mm² cable to the tank sensor and back to the small local power supply. Power from the solar panel could be used for the local power supply (solar panel Voc needed). If the solar panel output is not suitable then a small dedicated solar panel can be added. Some design and verification work is required but it is not complicated.

I am now in the habit of fitting unions up stream and downstream of anything that might need to be changed/repaired in the future.

The efficiency has more to do with available space for mounting solar panels rather than the costs. You would need twice as much roof space for the same power output if the panels were only 10%

Probably coming to a village near you soon. Governments and their big business pals are bad losers.