bluejets

Most desk/pedestal fans are very similar............ post 8 below shows basic circuit diagram. https://aseannow.com/topic/1160525-hatari-fan-repairs-fed-up/ Video on similar..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQtljM5CZUs

As long as the voltage is the same or higher, it will be ok. Best show here.............. You should be able to pick up one at a local electrical shop almost anywhere....... (Udon Thani?)

Be wary there, a lot of B/S. Perhaps get an old PC power supply as they normally last for donkey's years. Just have to bridge the PG (power good...usually green) to Ground (usually black) to get them to work. You will find many instructions on the web(good ones) 12V DC and 5V DC as well as others. Main ones have relatively large current capability. Older PC units (15-20 year old) usually easier to work with.

The complexity arises when one has to consider two limits and how they may/may not interact. This combined with "what will be the fail safe mode" so one relay is not constantly required to be powered when gate is in open or closed position. Not being picky here, I simply know it's not as easy as one first assumes. Any that think it is, please feel free to post your circuit diagrams here for perusal and objective criticism. As before, simplest is just buy a new switch unit, it's not all that unreliable.

Reed switches will never have the current carrying capability of what may be required by the existing circuitry. Reed switches to be used in such an instance would have interface buffers. As I said originally and others have echoed, get the moths out of the wallet and buy a new "original" limit assy.

The problem when linking to Aliexpress is it rarely shows the actual product you have. Instead it opens the product page on the first in a line of products available. However, if we are to assume you have a 220v AC motor (very similar to what I have here) then any external limit switch could have been anything really ranging from an enclosed 220v AC rated switch to a DC sensor low voltage limit. Difference would be in how it interfaces with your original motor wiring. One could use a 12V DC magnetic sensor which I imagine your "replacement" would appear to be (no actual specs supplied so who knows what is inside the grey box). One feedback shown on the Aliexpress site (first really) says the buyer could not get any circuit on a multimeter and therefore decided the switch was kaput. However this is exactly the measurements one would expect from an open collector low voltage sensor. If indeed low voltage as I suspect, it would be quite easy to interface from the magnetic switch output(possibly open collector) through a low voltage relay to your existing motor circuit. There is one other aspect you have not mentioned. Normally one would expect to see 2 limit switches on the gate, one for open and one for closed limit. Edit: On further inspection of (see more detail) on the web site, it appears your existing mechanical limit could be a 2 way device therefor some more thought needed for any "magnetic sensor" replacement. The old system switch has 3 cables which one would expect to see in a 2 way switch of this nature....... so say gate closed for example the (common) white and blue may be open circuited as a limit and same for possibly (common) white and black for the other open direction detect.....these are only assumptions as I have no circuit diagram to make a definite conclusion. Further down the Aliexpress page there is a reference video to replacing your original switch which is no more than two interconnected micro switches. I don't know which part of your switch fails but assuming the microswitches, they can be obtained almost anywhere for maybe $2 a piece. Again though, no way of knowing if it is 220v AC or low voltage BUT ...... as the switches are contained within the gate motor casing one could assume them to be 220V AC. https://th.aliexpress.com/item/1005002630161335.html Without further info on the new switch/switches and connections in a circuit diagram on the old switch/switches it is difficult to be more precise in any answer for a conversion.

Wife's aunty complained once to the PEA about highly excessive charge. They had threatened to cut the power if the bill was not paid. I went around to the house, found the meters to be on a pole on the opposite side of the road ( not unusual) BUT......... over 3 metres from the ground, I asked aunty if the meter reader carried a ladder with him or a telescope or binoculars to read the meter, to which she said "not to my knowledge". So I said she should ask the PEA the same question. Excess charge was credited, meter never moved but bills are back to normal. Back to the averaging approach I suspect. She's happy, PEA are happy so mia phen rai I guess.

So will poking around with a test pen unless one knows what they are doing. You will find most correctly associated the existing connections with what was required in the new arrangement. Colours quoted were to guide the Op in the right direction.

Switching between tariffs .......Get used to the view from behind iron bars.....or a wad taken from your bank.

Cost primarily..........I am sure if you offered to pay for the extra outlet, it would be in place almost the same day. Other than that, the "never enough outlets" applies wherever one resides, not only Thailand. When we do the rough in on new homes, we try to suggest where additional outlets would be a good move. Adding afterwards is ALWAYS more costly. However, even though the cost of an extra point or two during construction might be extremely minimal compared to the overall, cost when building can spiral out of control.

At times all that is required is to clean the rust/debri off the lamination shoes where they contact. Around 7:00 on the video below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMpAlUc20yQ&t=2s

I can understand the frustration of cost of living spiralling higher and higher, same here in Aus. Government is hell-bent on bullshit 100% renewables without any real understanding of reality. Only this week NSW decided it would start charging people for any feedback into the grid from rooftop solar. Our old apprentice works on some of these "solar farms" and if the farm is close to the East coast, i.e. first to get the sun, they sell their power to the grid, all at a momentary value applied. If further inland, nope, turn them off, don't need them, most people had their breakfast now. Then there is the ever increasing cost of food, fuel, insurances, services (which have to keep up) interest rates etc. etc. One can tell an election is coming, they are starting to throw money around again like it is going out of fashion (apparently it is) Those that start to think moving to Thailand will be a good idea though, have definitely not thought through everything, that's for sure. Friend of mine has relatives in their 40's who thought the same, made the move to Chiang Mai last October and have spent more time coming back to Aus. So much for saving money.

I live in Thailand quite a bit so , wrong on point one. Your quote on the 2 wire system is also wrong, Thailand is mostly MEN system same same as Aus. WITH earthing as well, so point two down and out also. Check out any architect, draftsman or engineer drawn domestic, commercial or industrial plans or simply available at any PEA office by application I'd imagine. What you may have observed on whatever percentage of installs does not make it legal nor does it make it correct. Aussie products work fine on Thai mains system, so once again wrong again. Many Aus products such as Clipsal used there for donkey's ages and that's quite a long time. Best you check credentials of those giving advice as you will soon see I am qualified in every respect to give advice on electrical systems pretty much anywhere in the world. Commonly known as putting ones brain in gear before opening the gob. If you have trannies, then good for you. Hope you picked the correct type. Cheers Jorgo.

................. good one. Just be careful telling anyone their job, it'll backfire on you every time. Remember Thai do not like being embarrassed, put on the spot or "told off" by anyone. Saying you would "like" to have a separate circuit run from the main distribution board ( with safety cut) for each of the air conditioner, shower and have the pump connected to an existing power circuit, off the lights(also safety switch) A single line drawing of what you have now and what you would "like" to have would be a good first move, with another lecky naturally. First one will tell you where to go now I'd imagine.

I'd be giving serious thought to moving to a cleaner environment.

Don't be such an arrogant ignorant a-hole.

Me too....transformers as a whole are fairly robust and will withstand spec way out side of recommended without failure. The associated electronics should be good for a fair range outside of spec also.

At the risk of repeating myself, seems you find it hard following the King's English. ....and this.......... So in reality, your point is invalid.

I think if you look into it a bit more you'll find that to be incorrect. However, if so, then use an MR16 socket, just be aware they are only single insulation and not legal for use on 220v AC in many countries. That is why there is such a mother as GU10 which do comply. https://www.bestbuylighting.com.au/products/sal-mr16-lampholder-s9000-lh Op (and his family and friends) would be far better off to follow my original recommendation. There is enough shoddy electrical in Thailand as it is without adding more to it.

Tell that to the Bondi shopping centre victims. These coward POC wackos come up from behind. We even had one running the streets of Bundy last week.......taken out by what can only be described as very courageous bystanders. Never even a whisper on the news....Facebook apparently yes.

True.....one thing they could do though is re-instate their Brisbane-Suvarnabhumi and return direct flights. Right PIA to have to travel down to Sydney and back, not only the time (loose a day each way) but costs approx. an extra $1500 for myself and the wife. Personally couldn't care less if Sydney sank into the harbour to be quite honest. Hotels and flights with Qantas(yuk)

The ones you show are low voltage and require some kind of electronic transformer. You will find LED downlights which do not require any transformer in their thousands. Most will have the driver installed internally so therefore just either a plug on the lead or a connector strip. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403757614251

Think you will find Philips LED lamps require a dedicated type dimmer else they will flicker and drive everyone nuts. https://reductionrevolution.com.au/products/diginet-led-dimmer

Not advisable to change from recommended size. Get a good quality part for the replacement ........... from where?? ........try a reputable pump dealer, not the corner store.

All depends on not what you did say but what you did not say. Things like size of the panels(physically and wattage) , what voltages are involved, what load current do you expect at the far end of your long runs? Do you intend the solar panels to go to an off line inverter first or are you talking unregulated DC from the panels? Does the solar array currently power some kind of inverter or load? Best draw a basic block diagram showing the components for solar panels and loading, length of run, only one load or several and how you intend to connect these together etc Even then. expect more questions.... Overall, I think you are approaching this idea of "cost cutting" with the wrong ideas on what is possible. An example is, if it is all this bother just for a few lights,(which draw bugger all) there are much better/cheaper alternatives. If you want to install a system to save your wife some money in the future(and naturally now), get a grid connect system installed by professionals. Again, the size of the system would depend on what you need to power.