JBChiangRai

Always use lightweight blocks on the outside because they minimise heat conduction and an airgap to the inside wall is better than adding polystyrene or anything else. What you use for the inside depends on your living style and air con usage. You should either aim for a high thermal content or a low thermal content inside. HTC use conventional building blocks on the inside if you want your temperature over the course of 24 hours to be low and will use your air con accordingly (you have solar so I am guessing you will). You can assist this by fitting flyscreens and opening windows at bedtime in rooms where you're not sleeping. I do this with a couple of bathroom windows downstairs and the same upstairs so we draw cool air in overnight downstairs and warm air exits upstairs. We close the windows about 8:30am the next day. The house stays cool most of the day doing this and a lot cooler than outside. LTC use lightweight concrete blocks on the inside if you run your air con sparingly only whilst your in the room for a few hours and don't mind a high overall ambient temperature when you're not in the room. On the subject of roof construction. You should design the roof for solar from the outset, don't design the roof first and then think about how to add solar. Design your roof so it slopes South for the solar panels, you may have to rethink your design completely, but it's one of the most important design decisions you will make. Make sure you get a decent overhang where there will be sun. On my own house, 75% of the roof faces South, 25% faces North. Make sure heat can escape at the highest points, this is incredibly important. So a traditional hipped roof has to be rethought to allow hot air to exit. Spraying the roof with PU Foam, it's impossible if you're planning on putting your solar on the roof, unless you do it afterwards then it's impossible to maintain it. What you put over the ceiling (ie rockwool etc) is a solution for a problem you can eliminate with good design. If you can keep your roof void cool then rockwool will trap the heat in your rooms. If you can't keep the roof void cool, then rockwool will stop the heat getting to your plasterboard ceiling. We tackle this by making every soffit panel the ventilated type, most builders only fit a couple here and there. In my own home I fitted two Mitsubishi extractor fans at the high point controlled by programmable Sonoff temperature switches. It can be tempting to use dark glass. We've built a few with dark glass, I don't like it, the glass absorbs the heat and is often too hot to touch on the inside, all that inside heat gets transferred to the inside air by convection and you've also got the disadvantage that your house is dark inside. All our new houses are now built with clear glass (actually a slight green tint), and we design clever overhangs to stop the heat. You want to stop that sunlight hitting your floor which has a HTC and will retain the heat for hours, discharging it slowly into your room.

This is a recipe for disaster. Never try and do anything unusual (especially involving a building in Thailand), it will be FUBAR'd.

There is little point in running your pumps during the day if your pool is in the sun and it is a chlorine sterilised by electric salt cell. Sunlight burns off the Chlorine. You should run your pumps at dusk, you can probably run them a lot less time, the Chlorine won't get burned off and if you check the early morning level, Chlorine still present means it's done its job and there was nothing left for it to kill. Forget all the usual advice and fit a Chlorinator double the size recommended and you can probably just run your system 3-4 hours a night at dusk and halve the running costs.

Then it depends on your nationality, you will need your divorce certificate and have to swear a statutory declaration, if you're British, you'll have to pretend you're getting married again.

It is possible, it's easy if you're married to a Thai.

Been there, got the T-shirt, I am reminded of the definition of stupidity "Doing the same thing over again and expecting a different result".

Then I am guessing you were married at the time you adopted your adult daughter? And your wife must have gone with you? The guy at the Tessaban says it is very easy if you get your ducks in a row, My daughter really wants this.

15 years ago I adopted my first Thai child, actually she was my Thai partner's child and having shown her a good life and sent her to an international school, it would have been very unfair of me to send her back to abject poverty because the relationship broke down. Her grandma who brought her up prior to living with me, told my (ex)partner to get real and realise that I could give her by far the best start in life. Three years later, her cousin who was 8 spent her summer holiday with us, her parents went to Korea to work illegally whilst she was with us and I was told to take her to a school specialising in hill tribe kids where she would board at the state's expense. Unsurprisingly, she was distraught over this and so I gained another daughter and she gained a sister. Fast forward to today, they are now 20 and 19 years old, completed their education at a private school and are now in the 2nd year at Payap University (we call it payup because it's expensive). I have tried years ago to properly adopt, it's practically impossible for anyone living in Thailand unless you are married and a permanent resident, I am neither. There are 2 routes, you either go by the adoption center which used to be run out of some convent in Bangkok, or your provincial governor can sign it off, ours was asked by my lawyer whilst playing golf with him and he refused. It's pretty much ridiculous, because as far as the school was concerned, I paid the fees so I was the father. Properly adopting them would have got them a UK Passport if it was before their 16th birthday. I stood to gain nothing. We recently went to the Tessaban, now the oldest is 20, she's an adult and it's simply a matter of signing paperwork at the Tessaban to adopt an adult. Now comes problem two. Because I was divorced 25 years ago, I had to ask the court in the UK for my Decree Absolute, so I got that. Now I have to prove I have not remarried. How do you prove a negative? Well it turns out, I MUST have a statutory declaration made at the UK Embassy in Bangkok. The UK Embassy ONLY do it if I am getting remarried and for no other reason. So back to the Tessaban who told me "Pretend your getting married", a typical solution to a Thai bureaucratic problem, so that is in process. I appreciate the need for being careful in the adoption process, but in my case they threw the baby out with the bathwater.

The insurance site Auto Insurance EZ compiled sales and accident data from the Bureau of Transportation Statistics and the National Transportation Safety Board. The site found that hybrid vehicles had the most fires per 100,000 sales at 3474.5. There were 1529.9 fires per 100k for gas vehicles and just 25.1 fires per 100k sales for electric vehicles. Source Gas Vs Electric Accident and Fire Safety | NextBigFuture.com

Bird Diapers

16 amp (around 3.5Kw) is the most you can plug into a wall socket, but I wouldn't advise it. I would stick to around 10 amps, the reason being that wall sockets are rated for a short time at 16 amps, but you risk a fire if you do it longer. Your car probably comes with a charger rated about 10 amps. I had a Feyree and it failed the first day, local guy took it apart and couldn't fix it. If you want 16 amps then ask your electrician to fit a blue industrial 16 amp socket and buy a charger with a 16 amp plug on it, but if your supply is adequate, might as well fit a 32 amp blue industrial socket and go for a 7.2kw charger with plug on it (cables/breaker etc to match, i.e. one size larger on the breaker)

Having watched the video and read the top gear review, my advice to anyone thinking about the Dolphin would be don't be one of the first ordering it. Wait and see how the market reacts. Thai's love performance, if it delivers pedestrian performance it's going to be bad news on the second-hand car market. I'm reminded of the Suzuki Ciaz versus the Honda City, both almost identical to look at, one of them only has 90 hp, the other 120 hp, the low powered one loses 50% of it's value in year 1 because the Thai's don't want it.

Every owner of a pit bull is a bad owner. It's for good reason they are a banned breed in the UK.

Dealers have to pay 7% VAT on the sales price of secondhand vehicles. Sometimes they will discount. Sometimes they will also do that if you’re paying on credit because they make a lot more in commission.

'Tis but a scratch

Clickbait - Fake News

I’m sure the OP has his reasons.

The point is how you tell if internet or power is lost at location A when you are at location B. The OP did say “Recently the electricity was off in a place which I don't visit regularly and because of that the internet was off. I didn't notice for a few days.” Further, what you are suggesting won’t actually work for anyone whose router is separate from their modem. At my home if we lose internet, my laptop and smartphone will still display a strong WiFi signal and I can still access the file servers on my local network.

And what if you’re not glued to a laptop screen? What if you’re out somewhere? You missed the OP’s point.

I just spoke to the sales lady at MG here in Chiangrai and she said the MG4 X Power is not going to come to Thailand. I rate her product knowledge a tad higher than useless..

The one on the pumps is a TH16R2, I think that was the first one I ever bought. The one on the modem is a S31TBP, it has the dual advantage that it tells me if the internet freezes or power cut, it also tells me the modem and switch consume 19 watts., it a plug on one side and socket on the other. The one tells me if we lose PEA or Internet is a BASICR2, because of my whole house UPS, it's impossible to know which power source the house is on without the Sonoff. I prefer to use a 200 baht Sonoff IoT switch as a timer because it stays synchronised to real time. They also have an inching setting, so you can trigger a device and closes contacts for (say) 1 second, which works my garage door and gate from Siri. Most Sonoff devices receive their timing programming from Sonoff's server, thereafter, they will stick to their schedule without internet, but they default to a power-on state of On, Off, or same as when power lost.

Most of them do what's needed. I have a Basic for detecting power or internet failure at my house and another device (I can't remember what it is) at the moo baan pumping station which is on a different phase. And I have yet another 800m away which reboots the communal internet every morning at 5am, that one is the switched socket type.

That makes much more sense. I still hope they fit bigger and better tyres.

It’s currently a 50-50 weight distribution, so I should imagine with a heavier motor. That’s going to increase the weight on the back and decrease the weight on the front. They’re going to have to be fitting much better wheels and tires to get that power down. I hope they still use LFP batteries as they are much more suited to hot climates.

I’m a bit disappointed it’s one big motor and not four-wheel-drive. It currently can’t get all its power down, and it’s not unusual for the traction control to come in and out three times up to about 50 or 60 km/hr, and that is in the dry. I hope they’ve done something to help get the power down.