GammaGlobulin

a. First you need to determine how many hours you will use ACs in each room. b. And, you need to calculate (approximately) what size AC you need, in terms of Cooling Capacity, for each room You will need to consider how cold (what your desired room temperature is) your require it to be, both in the day and at night. d. The smallest size AC I buy is the 18,000 BTU Panasonic machine. This has an EER/SEER above 23. But, I definitely prefer the Panasonic 20,000BTU units, due to the increasing temperatures we are experience now, and will be looking forward to in the near future. For me, in a typical 22 square-meter room, I need 20,000BTU, or more. This is the minimum I need for a 22 square-meter room. It has an SEER over 23. I would prefer this machine had been manufactured in Japan where QC might be better. But, still, I need high efficiency, and I get this from the machine pictured here. c. You will not be able to calculate actual BT. savings unless you first know how many hours, total, you will run them. d. It might be better to judge from your AC usage in the past. While living in other houses of similar size, what was your cost of power to run the ACs. Then, check the efficiency of the old machines. From this you should easily be able to estimate your savings if you increase the efficiency by 30 percent, for example. You will be able to estimate the electric power savings per month. There are also calculators offered by AC companies on line. e. For the example above, a 22 square-meter room: IF I use the 18,000BTU unit to cool this room 16 hours per day, and average power usage of the unit is approx 1000 watts, then I would be using 16 kWh per day, or 496 kWh per month. If my machine is ten percent more efficient than another machine, I would save approx Bt.250 per month. Or, if 20 percent more efficient, then Bt.500 per month. In reality, the power used by this machine is not even close to 1kW per hour. f. For a comparison, look at Mitsubishi Panasonic SEER is 23 Mitsubishi SEER is 18 Panasonic is 27 percent more efficient. If in the past, you paid Bt.4000 per month for the power used to run your ACs...as an example... AND if those old machines had average SEER ratios of 18, ... Then, theoretically, by switching to Panasonic, you might expect to save Bt.1100 per month.

Sorry. A much better and more appropriate term would have been.... REDUNDANT REDUNDANT is what the "Dry Mode" button is. Waste of space on the remote control. Dehumidifiers work well when dehumidification is needed because they draw in ambient room air, pass the humid air over cold coils to condense the water vapor, then past the resulting dry air toward the back of the machine where it passes over hot coils to reheat the air, and then the air exits out the back of the dehumidifier at slightly higher temperature than when it entered the machine. A dehumidifier is very useful in Chiang Mai during the humid months, such as during the raining season, and also the cool season, to avoid problems such as black mold in the house, or green mold growing on leather products such as belts, shoes, etc. UNFORTUNATELY; The AC Dry Mode does not work as well because the room air is cooled as it passes over the evaporator coils, thus providing dehumidification, but it is never re-heated. When the room air reaches lower temps, then the dehumidification process does not work very well, and the room air becomes damp and uncomfortable. This is why, in the past, I have often used a dehumidifier and the AC simultaneously for best results. Hope this information will be helpful to you when you next become bothered by excessive humidity in the Cool Season or the Wet Season, a condition which often leads to Black Mold, as you can learn by searching this Forum.

a. You are now saying that graphs of valid data are not informative to this discussion? b. You are implying that there are not many people in Thailand and elsewhere in Asia who run dehumidifiers in the winter months? Truly?

FALSE:

I just hope you will not pull a gut straining yourself. But, here is data for December and other months in Chiang Mai, showing Relative Humidity. As I say, in Chiang Mai, the humidity is quite high during the Cool Season and the Raining Season. It is only during the HOT Season that the RH actually dips appreciably. https://wanderlog.com/weather/19/12/chiang-mai-weather-in-december#:~:text=How humid is it in,humid in March at 45%. During the winter months, mold often forms on leather products and on bathroom tile, due to high humidity in the cool season in Thailand. So, if you visit during these months, you can sometimes expect this to be the case.

I mentioned Taiwan ONLY as an example of a place in Asia where, during the winter months, the temperatures get low enough and to the point where the Dry Mode is of little value other than to reduce the room temperature lower than what most people would think is tolerable. But for our purposes, we can choose CM in the winter months: In Chiang Mai in the winter months: Temps during the Cold Season, during some years, can get quite cold for up to two months. And, when the temperature is this cool, most people in Thailand would not be able to accept having the compressors of their ACs running, and further cooling down the room/house. (In order to achieve dehumidification, the AC compressor MUST be running. And, running the compressor will cool the already cold room. Therefore, not acceptable for most users in the winter months, unless the Cool Season is especially warm.) (I cannot believe I am explaining the obvious.) Now, concerning the inverter-ACs and non-inverter ACs: a. The Dry Mode on inverter ACs will cause the compressor to run slowly, providing dehumidification. b. The Dry Mode on the non-inverter ACs, will cause the compressor to cycle ON and OFF. The sound of the compressor going from OFF mode to full ON mode can be very disconcerting. And, this is just one more reason not to choose this type of AC. There is always the option to use a dehumidifier with an AC that is operating. If you use a dehumidifier, the dehumidifier will produce dehumidification plus heat. And, in winter months during the Cool Season, this added heat output can help to warm the room while the Dry Mode of the AC is operating. If you live in the mountains of Thailand, then during the Cool Season the temps will dip to what is typical in northern Taiwan. And, if you are there, then I would suggest that you use both a dehumidifier and also an inverter-AC running simultaneously, if you wish to lower the humidity to below 40 or 50 percent. Obviously, all of the above applies ONLY if you have made the effort to seal the cracks around doors and windows of your room/house using a caulking gun, or other effective methods.

Dry Mode is meaningless. Dry Mode just means that you have set the machine so that the compressor will run more slowly, and therefore will not cool the room as much. You can achieve the same effect by keeping the AC in cool mode, and just selecting a higher temp on the thermostat setting. Also, this DRY MODE setting is not really usable in colder climates such as in Taiwan during the cold months. IF Dry Mode forces the compressor to continue to operating, you can reduce your room temp to down around 14 degrees C. Why is this? Dry mode will force the compressor to continue to operate, even though the compressor will often cycle off and on, in order to provide continued dehumidification. This is OK in warmer climates. But, it is not OK in cooler climates because, of course, when the compressor operates then room cooling will be the result. For this reason, in places like Taiwan, it is better to use a dehumidifier during winter months, when there is high humidity in the air, and the ambient temps are fairly low. FURTHERMORE: Dry Mode does not work exactly the same on all machines. For example, I have two different models of Panasonic inverter ACs. a. If I set Dry Mode on machine A, then the compressor will operate even if the room temperature is very low, and lower than the temperature I set using the remote. b. If I set Dry Mode on machine B, then the compressor will cease to operate when the room temperature falls below the temperature I set using the remote. So you can plainly see that the Dry Mode setting of machine B does not really put the machine into "Dry Mode", but instead just keeps the compressor running until the room temperature falls below the set temperature. (This is NO DIFFERENT from the Cool Mode setting on machine B.)

EER: Energy Efficiency Ratio (or rating) SEER: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (or rating) This is the most important factor to consider when purchasing a new AC machine. The EER is calculated as follows: EER is a measure of Cooling Output divided by energy input in Watts. Please do not buy a unit with low EER. You are just wasting your money. Landlords often select low EER machines because they can make extra money by overcharging their guests. Landlords like money. They do not care too much about saving your money on your electric bill. If they charge you Bt.8 per kilowatt-hour, and pay Bt.5 per hour...then....obviously, they will buy the least efficient machine they can find. Low efficiency machines are generally cheaper, as well. Do you know any landlords that will pay more just to save you money???? ====== https://www.lghvacstory.com/hvacefficiency/ Sometimes, Apples are not Apples....

An interesting life, for sure. I might enjoy living there, maybe. The only problem for me would be ensuring stable internet access with no downtime due to power outages. Such a thing could be achieved, and may become more accessible as satellite-based internet offerings become more popular.

When I stumble, it is never for the wrong reasons. What you MUST ADMIT, Sir, is that the MAIN ADVANTAGE of an inverter type AC is that in most cases the compressor will continue to run, almost 100 percent of the time the AC is in use (hot season, plus when house is heated up in cool season or wet season). Hopefully, you will still credit me with enough intelligence to know when the compressor of my Panasonic AC are running, and not running. The advantage of this is that when the compressor is running, then...dehumidification will continue. With a non-inverter system, the compressor will cycle on and off. When in the OFF mode, dehumidification ceases. This results in wet air being blown into the room. Also, this results in a musty smell, when the compressor shuts off, or cycles on and off, during the operation of those LOUSY GARBAGE non-inverter type ACs. And, further, it is the ignorance of BLOCKheads which is the stumbling block that causes me the most stumbling in my life....

Correct. You are wrong. a. The articles that you linked are not room ACs. They are central air units that feed air ducts throughout the house. b. These articles do NOT mention the use of inverter systems, which is what I am discussing. c. Who would buy an AC, these days, that was not an inverter-based AC? Maybe mostly idiots, that is who. d. So, what you seem to not understand is that an AC using an inverter can operate with very high efficiency at high and low compressor speeds. Without an inverter, the AC compressor has only two modes: ON and OFF. This causes loss of efficiency. Also, when the compressor is on the OFF mode, then ALL dehumidification ceases. THIS is what those two articles you linked are referring to! IF the AC relies on an inverter, the the compressor can operate at variable speeds. THIS MEANS THAT DEHUMIDIFICATION ...CONTINUES at all speeds. e. I feel like a bafoon trying to explain the OBVIOUS to you. f. CONCLUSION: 1. Buy only inverter ACs. 2. Buy larger capacity than you will need on most days. This will ensure that you will have sufficient cooling capacity to cool the rooms of your house sufficiently to stay cool in even the HOTTEST of weather. Also, sometimes, when we have more guests than we might usually expect, we will have extra cooling capacity in our ACs. BIGGER IS BETTER for this simple easily-understood reason. 3. Do not worry that dehumidification will be a problem with a larger (BIGGER) AC unit: Why? The inverter will slow the speed of the compressor, as needed. This means that DEHUMIDIFICATON WILL continue, even when the compressor is running more slowly. This is NOT the case with a non-inverter system, which will STOP DEHUMIDIFICATION when the compressor cycles off, or on and off, continually. Some people are just TOO OLD to keep up with the times. Hoping nobody will fall into this category of being.... OVER THE HILL when it comes to everyday technology that we all ought to understand. Any further questions: I will be happy to enlighten you concerning this important Topic. ADDENDUM: Just in case you STILL do not comprehend this simple concept... 1. With an inverter AC, a large AC can throttle back to "act like" a smaller machine. I guess you never learned about this important point. 2. This means that the compressor will NOT turn off unless the demand for cooling capacity falls below about 30 percent of the BTU maximum cooling capacity of the AC unit. You should do a bit of research yourself to confirm this is true...maybe.... If you wish to confirm any of the above, just contact the AC manufacturer of your choice....

Sure. I understand. Ups to you. Still, for the reasons that I have previously stated, and since weather conditions for the coming years are definitely unknown, it might be beneficial to prepare for hotter temperatures during the next decade. And, the compressor on the Panasonic machine has a warranty of exactly one decade. In addition, the energy efficiency ratio of the Panasonic model I suggested, just for reference, is over 23.... Bingo! Such a machine as this can pay for itself in saved energy costs, within just a few years, maybe two years, if you use your ACs as much as I do. Also, it's better for our planet. And, we all know that Tim Lenton of Exeter is now warning us of major Climate Tipping Points ahead... Just sayin'.....

False. Actually, bigger IS better when choosing an inverter AC unit. I always buy a unit that surpasses my cooling capacity requirements, for average hot days, by 40 percent. This way, I always have sufficient cooling capacity, even when we have long periods of very hot weather, such as we are now experiencing. Also, with an inverter, even the units that are larger than I need, on certain days, will not cycle on and off, but continue to operate smoothly, and with very high efficiency. Sorry. But, wrong is wrong. So, let us not spread FUD, without presenting the evidence. Here is the Panasonic type consumer ACs that I buy...(THESE HAVE EFFICIENCY RATING ABOVE 23) Please NOTE the Efficiency Rating of this Unit: 23.3 (SEER) which is only slightly different calculation than EER)

He was a skilled paperhanger.

I am definitely anti-genocide. In all cases. Good point.

Obviously NOT. The consequences are severe and life-changing and NEGATIVE. Best advice I can give you is: Resist the temptation to feed your head! (If you are in the last stages of a painful and terminal disease, then, who cares, and GO FOR IT! Escape into the Land of Nod.) Not a good look for most Farang. But, OK for some Chinese, I guess. Using one of those stone pillows might necessitate inhaling an EXTRA bowl.....! FYI: NOTE: Y'all should spend time learning the Chinese language, something of value, rather than lying on a clay pillow with a clay pipe, all day. Learning Chinese was one of the best things I ever did.

What area, part of Thailand, experiences as many electric-power outages as you have described? I have never heard of such a thing, except maybe high up in the mountain villages, where you cannot even get to during the Raining Season without a very capable 4-wheel drive. What area in Thailand has this level of electrical supply reliability challenge?

That's interesting. Where is your area? Thailand, or other?

So then... PEA advises on cost-effective air conditioners BUT FORGETS to mention MOST IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION for buying a cost-effective AC? a. No mention of EFFICIENCY b. No mention of efficiency ratings c. No mention of how to calculate the EER rating of an AC, just by checking capacity in BTU and Watts. Therefore, this article and advice is completely USELESS. I would NEVER buy an AC with an EER below 23. I guess PEA was afraid to mention the EER rating because this is a ratio which requires the understanding of simple fractions. So, better to pay through the nose for extra power to run an inefficient AC? Such a shame. Living in the modern world requires understanding third-grade arithmetic. But I wonder if they can easily convert from BTU to kcal? 1 BTU =0.25 kcal Ignorance is bliss... Unless you are losing money due to it.

32.5 F Sorry. 0.25 C Again, Sorry. Sent from my Samsung Note 4. Now over 9 years old. But, the keyboard causes many errors.

Great. I just hope my Samsung refrigerator does as well. For some reason, Samsung gave me a 20-year warranty on the digital inverter compressor motor unit. I did not find this to be one bit insulting. I just question the insulating characteristics compared to the Hitachi. The freezer compartment goes down to minus 25, even when the room temperature is 38 degrees C. The refrigerator compartment goes to 32 degrees C. The price was much lower than the Hitachi. I just don't know about power consumption which depends on insulation and heat transfer. This Samsung is very quiet. I think it's a really nice machine!

Can't be helped, I guess. This is Thailand. Sent from my Samsung Note 4.

Obviously, he did not engage the 4-wheel-drive. If not engaged, then.. No work.

This is why it's crucial to choose a refrigerator freezer with extremely good insulation. The Hitachi refrigerator has excellent installation characteristics. But the new Samsung machine, which is double door, same as the Hitachi, seems to lack the same highly effective insulting characteristics of the more expensive machine. If this is true, then the Samsung machine will cost more, in the long run, due to higher consumption of electrical power. I like Samsung solid-state memory storage and Samsung phones. But I always think I a crazy if/when I buy Samsung appliances.

Those who say that this year is not far hotter than Thailand has ever been during the past century are just sharing contrarian views in order to spread FUD for FUN. Concerning the ACs... When I purchased my ACs that I am now using, last year and five years ago, I purposely selected cooling capacity ratings that were almost double what is recommended for my rooms. So now, I can cool the rooms to 21 degrees during the day, during the hottest days, and 18 degrees during the period 3AM to 7AM. Sorry to hear about your dogs and cats. Dogs enjoy ice water and ice cubes. Maybe you can buy some sort of electric cold pad for the cats to sleep on. Time to consider the best long-term strategies for the coming years...maybe...