Sophon

Not exactly a new idea, they tried that in Thailand back in 2019: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-thailand-3d-crossing-idUSKBN1Y20D0

Even so, he is asking for experience on the cars reliability and after sales experience. Given that the most anyone could have had the car is a few weeks, they probably don't have much to say about those areas. I am surprised that you were quoted two day delivery, since MG's business model is built to order.

I don't think you will get much information of people's experience with the MG VS here. The model was only launched in Thailand two months ago, and they probably haven't even started delivering cars to customers yet.

I receive bank statements every month from Bangkok Bank with my address written in the Latin script. I needed an official document same as you for my home country, so I asked Bangkok Bank to register my address using the Latin script. No problem at all. i don't know about other banks.

Since you chose the wrong account, it must mean that you have another account with funds in it. So worst case scenario, you can qualify using the combined balance of your two accounts. Just get your bank to include both accounts on the bank letter (or get separate letters for each account).

You can buy land in your daughters name, but you won't be able to have a mortgage on the land. You will have to pay cash.

He is not the only one. I have accounts in Bangkok Bank, SCB, Krung Thai Bank, Kasikorn Bank and Krungsri Bank and Bangkok Bank has by far the best service.

It seems unlikely that someone who have 99 posts while being a member since 2005 would suddenly start spamming.

Thanks a lot. What did you use as search terms?

And it's from 2018.

I already have the UKK80 terminal blocks, what I am looking for are blanking strips that can block the opening in the DIN box front plate in front of the UKK80 blocks. Like these (for a Schneider box):

Thanks again. I have been searching Lazada/Shopee/AliExpress but have been unable to find anything. Maybe they are there, but unfortunately I don't know what they are officially called. The only thing I can find are "blanks" like these: But they don't work if the spot is already filled with a UKK80 terminal block. Of course, I can make something myself, but it won't look very nice.

Completely unrelated question. Isn't there such a thing as blanking strips/plates for DIN mount CUs? I will have two boxes in the solar installation, but in one of them some of the spots will not be filled or filled with UKK80 terminal blocks that don't fill out the gap in the front plate.

Thanks. Verify with my meter how, by measuring the resistance between panel and supports?

How have you guys grounded your solar panels? My solar panels will be ground mounted and each panel will be attached to the support metal structure (which will be bonded to the ground rod) with 8-10 screws/bolts. Will that be enough grounding, or should I run wires from the panels to the metal support or even to the ground rod?

link

Why pay USD 36 for a 200AH battery, when you can get a 280AH battery for USD 20 from the same seller: The seller seems to be genuine and has very good reviews, but there is definitely something funky going on with some of their pricing.

I wonder if the calculator from the European Commission is biased towards colder climates: If we compare the numbers from January and August, I would be producing more than 4 kWh per day more in January than I would in August. That is reflected in the fact that the calculator expects me to fully charge my battery 29 days in January against only 22 days in August. However, the calculator for some reason also expects me to run out of battery every single day in January but only on 21 days in August. That makes no sense to me. The only reason I can think of is that the calculator expects me to use more energy in the winter for heating (it has the battery running out every night in November, December and January), or that it somehow expects that the battery is used for an extended time because of longer nights. That is not really the case in Thailand, where we as a general rule probably use more energy during the night in August (Air condition), and where the difference in day/night hours doesn't wary much from summer to winter. Maybe the calculator has some constants in the calculations that are more relevant for Europe than Thailand. It is after all an calculator supplied by the European Commission. Can anyone come up with a plausible explanation?

Where in Thailand is the Global you use?

Probably sound advice from a financial point of view, but personally it would have no interest to me. If this was just about saving money I wouldn't bother with the project, the savings wouldn't be that substantial anyway. The primary purpose isn't saving money, I just like the idea of being (mostly) independent from the grid, and not being in the dark when the grid is down. Of course, I don't like the idea of burning money so installing solar has to make at least some kind of financial sense. I am happy if I can achieve savings in the region of 10% annually of the initially invested amount.

If I end up going with the 390W BlueTech panels, it won't be to save money. The panels would actually be more expensive, both per watt and in total, than the option from Global. But I would get a better panel (mono crystalline and half cut), and that would be worth the extra money to me. What's holding me back is the risk of having to deal with panels broken in transport, so if I could find a brick and mortar shop selling this panel for a comparable price, I would definitely go pick them up myself. I have been scouring the internet, but haven't been able to find any solar shops in the Chiang Mai region. Lots of companies doing big projects, but none that just sell the equipment. So if someone knows of a shop in or around Chiang Mai with a good selection of solar panels (and other equipment), I would definitely go check it out.

Having decided to go ahead with the project, I have started ordering some of the smaller stuff from AliExpress. The solar system will be located on one of the wetter parts of our land, so building the structure for the panels will not be done until we are into the dry season - so sometime in October/November depending on the weather. But as we know, deliveries from AliExpress can sometime take a couple of months or more. As we still have 2-3 months to go, I will be spending the next few months looking for good prices on the PV panels, Inverter and batteries and pounce if I see a deal I like. I was considering if I should buy the JinYuan panels from Global while they are on sale until the end of this month): I can't find a spec sheet for this panel on the web, the closest I got was specs from JinYuan's own website for the panel series JYXXXP72, but that only covers the 320W, 325W and 330W models. According to Global: Voc: ? Vmp: 38.2V Imp: 8.94A According to seller on Alibaba (and his information correlates with the JinYuan spec sheet for 320W, 325W and 330W): Voc: 47.1V Vmp: 38.7V Imp: 8.79A Price per Watt: 3,490 Baht/340W = 10.26 Baht/W I would buy 12 panels for a total cost of 41,880 Baht for 4,080W of panels. I would have to arrange the panels in two strings of six panels (S6P2 configuration), as 12 panels in series would total Voc of 565V, more than the maximum PV array open circuit voltage rating of the inverters I am looking at (max. 500V). The combined Vmp of the panels in series of 458V/464V (depending on who you trust) would also exceed the MPPT's voltage range of 120-450V. I have also been looking at this panel: From the spec sheet: Voc: 46.2V Vmp: 38.2V Imp: 8.90A The Vmp/Imp doesn't quite add up with it being a 345W panel (comes out to 340W), but using the 345W figure the price per Watt would be: 3,700 Baht (210 Baht shipping)/345W = 10.72 Baht/W Again, I would buy 12 panels for a total cost of 44,400 Baht for 4,140W of panels. Like with the JinYuan panels, I would have to arrange them in a 6S2P configuration to avoid exceeding the inverters maximum open PV array open circuit voltage and stay within the MPPT voltage range. The third and final panel, I am currently considering, is this one: From the spec sheet: Voc: 49.3V Vmp: 41.1V Imp: 9.49A Price per Watt: 4,400 Baht (210 Baht shipping)/390W = 11.28 Baht/W. If I go for this panel, I will buy either 10 or 12 panels for a total cost of: 10 panels: 44,000 Baht for 3,900W of panels. 12 panels: 52,800 Baht for 4.680W of panels. Like before, 12 panels would have to be in a 6S2P configuration, but 10 panels could theoretically be connected in series. The total Voc of the string of 493V would be awfully close to the inverters maximum PV array open circuit voltage rating of 500V, though. To err on the side of caution I think I would go with a 5S2P configuration. The producers of these panels Jinko (JinYuan) and Risen (BlueTech) are both major producers of solar panels, so I would expect that the quality of the panels would be more or less on par. The JinYuan panels is the cheapest option, but for only 10% more per watt I am very tempted to go for the 390W BlueTech panels. With them being Mono crystalline and half-cut, they should supposedly perform a little better under low light, very hot and partially shaded conditions. It also gives me the flexibility to start with 10 panels with only a 200W decrease in total power of the array, and then later add two more if needed. On the flip side, I do like the idea of inspecting the panels when I buy them and taking them home myself, which buying at Global offers. That way you don't have to deal with panels broken in transport or the seller sending the wrong items. And should a panel be defective, Global is very good at taking products back and refunding you. What to do, what to do, what to do.... What would you do?

In theory a 5.5kW inverter should process a maximum of 24A on the AC side, and even if it allows a 10% overload that would only bring the max. to about 26A. So 6 sq.mm in/out wires should be plenty on the AC side. However, if the inverter really just shifts to bypass mode in case of an overload, that would mean that the AC in/out wires could theoretically be exposed to currents of up to 50A, at which point the 50A breaker on the incoming supply from PEA would cut out. So since I have 16 sq.mm. wires left over from when we built the house, I think that I will run 16 sq.mm. the whole way from incoming supply to the inverter, and out from the inverter to the wires for the house (assuming the ports in the inverter can handle the size). Is my reasoning sound, or am I missing something?

I was leaning towards the Y connector. The extra 10cm of wire or so might mean that the wires from the two strings could reach without having to extend one or both of them.