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Hog Head

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Posts posted by Hog Head

  1. On TOT and I am still at dial up speed in CM and have been so since mid last week.

    They claim it is "the server" and have no idea or are lying.

    Is there anything I can do to get around this as there is no other choice in my area

    I read on page 27 about using TOR proxy but would appreciate some guidance from those in the know

  2. I have recalculated the dynamic compression ratio to work on this crappy fuel. Not happy, but this is all I can do until E-20 becomes more readily available

    Bring on E-20 or better yet E-85 and then I can really increase the compression and suck back even more of it.

    At the same time I also want Shell V-Power petrol back for my bikes but that is a politically driven impossibility in the LOS

  3. Here are the specs for M-1

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

    Note the levels of ZDDP and Phosphorus in the turbo diesel oil and bike oil. M-1 bike oil is not available in Thailand

    Compare this to your favourite brand of bike oil and make an informed decision. You may find that your favourite brand of esoteric bike oil does not publish specs and makes only grandiose statements re quality and performance. I choose to buy a known entity with published specifications on the additive package, and base stock. Make your own judgement but mine is grounded in science.

    As stated earlier K&N filters, while better than the run of the mill paper element filters, have the least high efficiency filter material of the premium filters. Better, but not the best, and if you want the best read the CalSci article and make your own decision. I use Purolator Pure 1 as I believe it is the best.

  4. any turbo diesel, IOW any modern diesel, heats the oil more than any NA bike engine ever made

    compression in a diesel is between 17-22, no bike engine even close.

    pollution to oil in diesel engine is extreme

    Lets not forget the turbo on that diesel that runs at 20,000 + RPM, far faster and hotter than any air or water cooled engine will ever see. In fact I have seen them glow in the dark they are so hot. When the engine shuts off the turbo continues to spin, pushing the oil film far more than any other bearing will ever see. When compared to the duty cycle in a diesel, car and bike oil does not need the expensive additives that are needed for extreme applications.

    Chief among these additives is ZDDP (zinc) and phosphorous - both very expensive and out of favour with the Greenies, so has been dropped from mainstream oil brands. Interestingly enough flat tappet engines require these additives and will soon be killed without as many a Porsche or old Beetle owner has found out. Motorcycle and diesel oil is loaded with ZDDP and phosphorous.

    Check your favourite oil for these 2 additives and compare to Mobile 1 Delvac (Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil in Thailand). Should your brand choose to disclose this important information you will see why I use this product. In fact M-1 Motorcycle oil has even more of the good stuff, but alas mai mee here in LOS.

    The plus is when you are on the road, Esso carries it at the pump - try that with Royal Purple, Amasol, Motul, or (insert your favourite bike oil brand here)

    Once again YMMV

  5. If it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing, hence my usage of Pure 1 filters and Mobile 1 diesel oil. Others choose do overdo it by changing their oil and filter twice as often.

    Engines are expensive and oil is cheap so use what you deem the best and change it often if you are fussy, and if not, do as you please. Should you put enough miles on the bike or it sees severe service (common in this climate in an air cooled engine) then time will tell if your approach is correct. I am not a gambler and choose my approach for sound engineering and economic reasons.

    On the subject of diesel oil see my comments in a post several months ago about where to buy M1 bike oil

    BTW, K&N oil filters are not as good as other brands of high efficiency filters and in fact contain very little of the high tech filter medium. Hifiltro filters may be very good, however as they cannot, or will not provide particle retention data, I prefer to buy a product with published engineering specifications.

    YMMV

  6. Purolator Pure One filters are blue to differentiate it from the run of the mill pukey yellow filters. In fact it goes with my blue bike quite nicely

    If one was concerned about colour you could always use a can of Mexican chrome, or in true cruiser fashion a tacky, but no doubt effective, filter cover to accent the dingbats.

  7. Aside from the armchair experts it seems like I am the only one with any empirical experience. I have been running Purolator Pure 1 filters for years, including Harleys which are known for very low oil pressure at idle. The current HD has 43,000 Km of hard use on a high performance engine running Mobile 1 Delvac (now turbo diesel pickup oil in Thailand) and Pure 1 filters. Coincidentally, this is the very combo recommended by this website.

    I can only presume that the not using a car filter in a bike waiver, was written by a lawyer, or industry driven to preserve margins on more expensive "motorcycle" filters. As long as the various engineering parameters are met/equal, then there is no technical difference between a car, tractor, or bike filter.

    Saying that you cannot use a car filter in a bike makes as much sense as that you cannot use diesel oil in a car/bike. It is the engineering specs that matter and all else is moot. As long as the specs are met, or exceeded then I do not see why one cannot use it

    In the end it is your bike and use what you wish. I will continue to use what I deem is the best product for the application, and experience would seem to suggest that I am on the right track.

  8. Index helmets are crap, and if price is an issue, Real helmets are DOT approved.

    Arai and Shoei are market leaders, have the reputation for quality, and are priced accordingly.

    Be very suspicious of the odometer on a used bike, and for accident damage. Given the cost differential between used and new I would buy new. Having said that I know the owner of Tony's and that is in fact his own personal bike and take a look at his Bonneville to see how he looks after his personal machines.

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