Hog Head

That 1200F paint might work.. Does it have a brand name ??

Brand is ATM

Richco Powdercoating in CM did my header a couple of years ago in ceramic. Mine turned a bit off black but still looks OK. The problem is that it has a very short shelf life and as demand is low Richie was thinking of dropping this product. You should give him a ring

His oven is not hot enough to cook the ceramic and it needs to be finished on the bike. During this period is is susceptible to scratching, and staining with oil so be careful. Once cooked off it is pretty tough.

He does not have a wand do do inside the tubes and can coat the outside only.

The headers will need to be sandblasted before coating, so do so before trying a spray bomb if doing it yourself. Richco can do this for you.

I bought some 1200 F paint at Lanna Screw in CM. It does not say what it is but at this temp is may be silica ceramic. Have not tried it yet so no report as of yet. I did buy similar stuff in Canada from VHT and used it on sandblasted car headers and it stood up fine.

If Richco does not do ceramic anymore, just get them blasted and try this 1200 F paint

No one?

The engines I imported were both sea freight.

Declared as:

Used benzene car engine

Brand name

Displacement in liters

HP

Serial number

The car engine came from the USA. The broker hinted that I needed to state benzene as the fuel and that it was used.

Duty as I recall was 10%

A new crate engine may be another story, and I have not tried this.

Done it twice with both a car and bike engine with no import permit.

The reason your bodykits are useless is because they have been put together in Thailand by someone who has absolutely no idea how to build a fibreglass body kit for a car...so they are not USA moulds from CMC

They are badly made rip off Thai crap.

Your trying to compare a real Rolex with a chinese copy...

Thats why I gave up trying to get my money back...it like talking to the wall.

If my money means that much to you ...then you keep it...and choke on it

Firstly they made it out of fiber strand and not the more expensive and durable fiber mat

Secondly the doors do not open fully because the door pockets are completely incorrect.

Thirdly the rear end (wings) are totally different shapes. You can see this from the unequal shape of the bumpers.

Forthly the whole body frame is twisted.so the eyeing across the doortops show an inch out of line.

I did notice in your final line a little stooping....

Yes you did complain about a small couple of details regarding the sub frame I sold you

I felt you were just picking faults because I requested my money back ....to do the work you were whinging about

would have cost me about 1000baht ,,,but I really wouldnt bother to do it.

Yet you wanted to put it on an 8 wheeler truck at a cost of 15000baht to send it from Chang Mai to Pattaya.

For gods sake Thats more than you paid for it.

That Is why I cant be bothered .

You keep telling me you are this highly trained proffessional engineer yet you cannot put even 1 car together.

I am just a regular carpenter from the UK.....

I put this car together before breakfast...Ha Ha

You realise in the construction industry...you cant talk a door onto its hinges

I sold you a speedster kit and chassis that has been made in Thailand.

It has also been inspected by an engineer from the BKK motor tax office and been registered as a modified vehicle.

Whereas

You sold me a piece of shit

If thats the way you want the world to see you ..up to you

I am attaching a picture of my finished car in guest place at The Bang Saen Classic Car Parade 2009

I didnt tell them I just made it........WHOOPS!!!

I would like to see your POS or cant you make it.

Put up or shut up....I also attach a pic of how I envisage your car when you finish

Note my other post this evening on kit cars, and the points raised.

After your response on the sub-frame problems there is no point is bringing up the problems I have had with your body.

BTW it is a CMC mould

I have Speedster body kits in Chiangmai and in fact was the first in Thailand to do so.

PM me if interested

I know....They are rubbish wide bodies ...thats why you purchased a classic speedster body from me in Sept 09

I ask you again on this public forum ....Please take it back and refund my money.

It is OK for a bar...but doesnot work on a chassis....its twisted..the wings are both different shapes and the doors

dont open because the mould is incorrect.

This is advice for anyone

Please note that the body I sold you is a CMC/Fiberfab and literally thousands were sold in the USA. Even so, as you were not happy, I offered to give you another replacement body when you complained and you never replied. Perhaps a new body is not what you really want once you had made a copy, and a refund would be more to your liking?

I would not stoop so low as to complain on a public forum about the body you sold me, however you need to redesign as I noted in private emails.

Vent the attic using louvers in the gable ends, assisted by a thermostatically controlled barn fan if necessary. I wired my house for the fan but found it is not necessary in my situation. No point in having air out if there is no air in, so you need to let air into the attic space via vented soffits. You will have seen these vented soffits in Canada as part of the building code.

Roof turbines are a good idea if you do not mind the look and have a good place to install them, but you still need air in.

Once the attic is vented, then you should think about insulating the ceiling. Spray foam on the roof tiles is a great idea, but you will get more bang by doing the ceiling first. Foil encased fibreglass bats while a low R value, are easy to install and as effective as the R factor would indicate. Foam has a higher R value, but if installed on the ceiling you will need to take care that it can support the weight.

Windows are the next thing to do, and short of replacing them with double pane low-E glass, you are limited to UV film.

New construction offers many more possibilities but given that this is an existing structure, your choices are limited.

The sausage king's bacon and sausages are easily the best I have tried in Chiang Mai. I've ordered from him a few times through a friend of his. He does great chicken and mushroom pies' also

Agreed - best in CM if not the entire country

I think that this is the brand Tuskers uses and offers for frozen take away

Tuskers for bacon and 2 types of sausages - both brekkie and banger styles

Best bacon in Thailand and available for take away. Think I will go and have a BLT right now while thinking of it

I am building a big single and need to get it dynamically balanced

Anyone in Thailand that can do this work?

I appreciate the debate on motor oil but no one is stating where they are buying their oil except for the imported Purolator Pure

There are more than one Mobile-1 Dealers here in CM, and I go the one just off Narawath bridge.

If on the road, M-1 is available at Esso stations - just try finding HD 60, Moutl, (insert your favourite esoteric brand here) on the road.

Why too thin ? Lifter noise at idle, along with no oil pressure at idle after a hard run on the highway and then pulling over for fuel stop or WHY. With 60W oil temp is between 200 and 220 F

HD have about 7 psi at idle presuming RPM per the factory spec. If yours is idling slower for the cool potato, potato sound your oil pressure will be lower - I have seen them hit zero. Remember that when hot your straight 60 will have lower viscosity than a Group V 20/50.

Lets not forget that even at our high ambient temperatures, straight 60 is like molasses on start up. Engine wear is primarily during start up and you are causing more damage in your attempt to address the problem of low oil pressure. I would suggest that your oil pressure issue has other factors.

Once again:

Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures

If high temperatures are your concern forget dyno oil and use a Group V Polyester based oil. Read the CalSci article I posted earlier to get a grasp on this concept and in particular the chart showing dyno and synth oil viscosity related to temperature.

The science would indicate otherwise, but it is your bike and run what you want.

Thanks for the facts.

The Nation reported seizure as a fact at 16:59

Thought it worth checking as their facts are sometimes circumspect

Have they?

I have heard the "too thin' arguement before and do not buy it. This is old school thought from the days when the only way to deal with heat was to use a thick single weight oil.

BTW how do you know it is too thin and how thin should it be under high ambient conditions? Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures

If high temperatures are your concern forget dyno oil and use a Group V Polyester based oil. Read the CalSci article I posted earlier to get a grasp on this concept and in particular this chart showing dyno and synth oil viscosity related to temperature.

As you can see in the table presented,

"synthetics offer real advantages when your engine is very cold and when your engine is very hot. The viscosity numbers shown above are at 212°F. At 32°F the PAOs and Diesters have about one third the viscosity of the mineral oils, meaning they pump through your engine three times better. Since about 75% of all the wear on your engine happens in the first five minutes after you start it up, synthetics offer an advantage in significantly reducing engine wear."

Dinosaur oil breaks down at 250 F and does not recover - IE once heated it is permanently degraded. Your air cooled engine can and will hit 250 oil temperature even with an oil cooler in traffic, or long hard pulls. Screaming Eagle engines come with synthetic as a factory fill and it can get bloody hot in parts of the US.

HD or M-1?

From CalSc:

I'm told that the standard Harley oils are made by Sunoco, and the Syn-3 is made by Castrol. The Syn-3 Harley synthetic is primarily a Group III oil, and contains very little PAO or Diester stock. I don't consider the Syn-3 Harley oil either a particularly excellent oil, nor a competitively priced oil.

From what I have read in outher technical articles I agree with this analysis.

HD is far too closed mouthed on exactly what additives are in their oil. When HD starts making oil I will buy it but for now limit my purchases to their bikes, and buy quality oil from the specalists.

BTW read all about oil filters and you will never use a HD filter again. I import Purolator Pure 1 for my bikes.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consu...html#OilFilters

Motul sell light, med, and heavy here in CM.

No idea on how that translates to 5W

Great service but possibly the worst food I have ever had. So bad in fact that the nursing station has take out menus so that you can have your own food delivered. the bad food was the main reason I went home as soon as possible

Turbos are made to very fine tolerances and turn at very high RPM.

How fast do you think that pickup turbo is spinning, and continues to spin after the engine is shut off? The answer is way faster than any bike made, so I suspect that that Delvac is specifically engineered for lubricating very close tolerance parts at very high RPM - hence more of the expensive additives than found in normal car oil

The original question was where to buy M-1 bike oil. To my knowledge it is not available, hence the second best M-1 alternative available in Thailand IE Delvac or now called "Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil"

Of course it matters if you want the engine to last. If not why bother to change the oil at all.

If you plan on turning it over every few years, and/or do little miles, or the engine is an oil burner, just use cheap oil. Remember that the base oil stocks have a finite cost and low cost means low quality.

If you want the engine to last use Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil. Possibly the best for the application but not cheap.

Most spanner monkey shops do not carry it so I take my own and have them do the oil change.

The mai mee syndrome.

It is just so much easier to say mai mee or perish the thought of suggesting an alternate shop to find the item

Yesterday topped the cake. Went into a typical small shop to buy a brake line fitting. I did not even have the part on the counter and the female shopkeeper did not even take a glance at it before uttering mai mee. Luckily a young guy was next to me buying parts as well and he suggested her competitor down the street. This got her attention and she miraculously reached under the counter and produced the previously mai mee part.

I went down the street anyway and bought what I needed, and the first shop lost a future customer.

valvoline synthetic is just as good and ALOT cheaper.

Does not have the ZDDP and phosphorus content of M-1 Turbo Diesel Pickup Oil. These are key wear additives, expensive, and not found in the majority of oils.

While not applicable to modern bikes, an absolute must have additives for flat tappet cams found in my Beetle and Royal Enfield

+1 again. It depends on the bike but if you're talking about a sportbike you better put in a synthetic motocycle specifc oil. Lesser oils may not flow fast enough, foam up, or just fall apart on you. Modern cars mostly redline under 9000 rpm, sportbikes rev up to 17500 rpm (2006 R6). Obviously biike engines endure far greater speed and stress loads on reciprocating parts than most roadcars and bike oils take this into account.

I do not think it is a question of RPM, after all F-1 cars use Mobil 1 and turn higher RPM's than you bike will ever see.

I understand that bike oil is the same base stock as car oil, without friction modifiers for wet clutch application. Having said that I have not had a problem using M-1 Delvac in wet clutch applications for over 10 years, and Harley uses the same synthetic oil in both engine and primary.

Read the Calsci article thoroughly and think about what he says.

but logic says a high compression engine running at very high RPMs and high operating temperature would require different oil than a low compression low rev cool running diesel engine...

Logic tells me that a diesel has far higher compression than your bike, and given that both are water cooled the temperature will be in a similar range. BTW my Harley tractor has 10.5:1 compression.

Read the Calsci article thoroughly and think about what he says.

I have been unable to find 20/50 motorcycle oil and am told my my dealer that is is not available, but this may be the usual mai mee story.

The old Mobil 1 Delvac, or now called turbo diesel pickup oil in Thailand, is the best choice for both bikes and cars as it has the highest content of zine and phosphorus. These additives are required for flat tappet vehicles like the old beetle and a lot of classc cars. 15/40 only

To keep my life simple I run it in everything I own.

See the Mobile 1 spec sheet here:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf

Here is an interesting article on why diesel oil:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

want to sell the Beetle?

PM me