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5 hours ago, Naam said:

no need to change! you have space enough to add a second pump (same capacity) which kicks in when the pressure falls below a certain preset minimum. two pumps give you also more peace of mind if primary pump fails and has to be repaired.

 Your engineer mindset comes out again. I like the redundancy concept of two pumps,  

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From the pictures it seem like the feed to the tank is 1/2 inch pipe, but that is of no consequence because this only affects the speed at  which the tank fills up, from there it seems like the house is being feed with a 3/4 inch pipe, but not sure (it could be 1" can't tell). 

The faucets at the point of use are  reduced to 1/2" (I believe that's standard)

If I remember my physics correctly the size of the pipe  only affects flow rate and it does not decrease pressure. If I remember correctly. Pascal's Law dictates that   Pressure in liquids and gases, is transmitted equally to all points.

( only difference being that air is compressible where water is not) 

But my recollections on the subject is a bit rusty  and could use a bit of correction.

Edited by sirineou
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While we're at it another thing i rarely see used.....or perhaps available.....in Thailand are the less restrictive swept bends (as opposed to elbows).

 

Short radius elbows are particularly egregious on waste pipes from kitchen and bathroom as Thai tilers have a habit of using basins and sinks and floor drains to wash away their waste cement mix and it will collect perfectly just behind the bend. Ever tried sawing through set mortar filling a pipe above your head?....it ain't funny.

 

 

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31 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

While we're at it another thing i rarely see used.....or perhaps available.....in Thailand are the less restrictive swept bends (as opposed to elbows).

 

Short radius elbows are particularly egregious on waste pipes from kitchen and bathroom as Thai tilers have a habit of using basins and sinks and floor drains to wash away their waste cement mix and it will collect perfectly just behind the bend. Ever tried sawing through set mortar filling a pipe above your head?....it ain't funny.

 

 

I have never seen them , I guess one could make their own by heating PVC pipe and bending it to the desired radiouse, I said"I guess" because I have never tried it. 

 Talk about about clogged pipes, a few weeks ago a friend of mine asked me to help him with a clogged drain line at his house.  We thought it would be an easy job as most of the pipes were exposed at his NJ home basement, and then we would have a few beers.

First we opened the clean-out  and attempted to use a snake and remove the obstruction,we told his 8 year old daughter not to flush the toilet until we said it was safe to do so. 

I guess we  should have told her to wait until we had our faces close to the clean-out, take the biggest, nastiest, dump and flushed,because that's exactly what she did,

As we sat there with shit all over as, I turned around and said to my friend.

" When you said come over, we will have a few beers and get shit-faces, this is not what I had in mind"  !:cheesy:

We are still laughing about it.

Anyway we ended up tearing the whole length from the clean out to the sink Pipe, out because it was totally clogged with fat. 

Washing fat encrusted dishes, pots and pans under hot water is not a good idea because the hot water melts the Fat and it flows with the water towards the septic or sewer, BUT as it flows in the cool drain pipe it solidifies and is deposited on the walls, where it accumulates . 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by sirineou
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16 hours ago, sirineou said:

The faucets at the point of use are  reduced to 1/2" (I believe that's standard)

If I remember my physics correctly the size of the pipe  only affects flow rate and it does not decrease pressure. If I remember correctly. Pascal's Law dictates that   Pressure in liquids and gases, is transmitted equally to all points.

Reduction at the point of use is the best way, though sadly not standard.

 

Certainly your memory is correct, unfortunately though once you release the pressure by opening a tap it is the flow rate that becomes far more important.

 

On a side note. I would protect your valves from direct sunlight, regrettably thai plumbing blue PVC breaks-down and becomes brittle. We have one stop valve that now has almost no handle and several pipes have cracked, so now I only use 13.5psi pipe as it is a lot thicker 

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1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Reduction at the point of use is the best way, though sadly not standard.

 

Certainly your memory is correct, unfortunately though once you release the pressure by opening a tap it is the flow rate that becomes far more important.

 

On a side note. I would protect your valves from direct sunlight, regrettably thai plumbing blue PVC breaks-down and becomes brittle. We have one stop valve that now has almost no handle and several pipes have cracked, so now I only use 13.5psi pipe as it is a lot thicker 

Thank you for that advice. 

I think when I come there this fall, if I have time I will put a small roof over the tank and pump assembly, It should be easy to do since I already have the fence on two sides.

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6 hours ago, sirineou said:

I have never seen them , I guess one could make their own by heating PVC pipe and bending it to the desired radiouse, I said"I guess" because I have never tried it. 

that's done in Thailand, i've seen 3" and even 4" pipes bent up to 35º.

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where you have the house feed going into the house try spliting the pipe into two, with the secound pipe go the other way around the house and then up till you get to the end of first "in pipe." making a full "circuit" this way you will have constent pressure in the pipe. 

this is what we use in farm buidings to maintain pressure in the pipes with around 400 different drinkers.... no pumps needed only gravity feed drinker lines that go on and on.....

if you heat the pvc pipe it releases some of the chemical in the pipe and can make your water/system smell bad. 

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At a condo I own in I had a look round the sewage system as there had been a total blockage in one area.

100mm soil pipes came down in  columns then out horizontally to each of the 6 tanks.

I suggested the chung to chisel out some bricks to see the bend inside the column and was APPALLED to see a tight elbow at the bottom of an 11 floor drop. A swept bend would have swished the water at speed to clean the pipe instead of block it.

I discovered swept bends ARE available for soil pipes at least, but of course they COST AN EXTRA FEW SATANG so a non starter I guess.

(As I remember soil pipes and maybe waste pipes have a 92.5degree bend so the pipe can continue with the correct drop of about 1 in 40?)

 

 

Edited by cheeryble
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 A Lot of thing are happening at the house as loose ends are being tightened, and I will post more pictures of these as I get them.

But one thing that I need some advise is the following 

28308929_576640439350964_1390373720_n.jpg?oh=ea69334604da751525910a14e834be84&oe=5A9072D9

The yard has being cleaned and topsoil spreaded , I wish I had laid pipes for a sprinkler system but I can't trust anyone else to design it , so I decided to wait until I am there later this year,

Any thoughts concerning that?

Also concerning grass. Wife says to wait until we are there full time to take care of it, but I am concerned that bu that time it will become overgrown with weeds and small treed making it difficult to lay Grass,

So Do it now or wait for later? if now what kind of Grass?  is there some kind that requires litle maintenance? Could I get someone to come and cut it periodically, is that a service that the nursery that installs the grass , or other places provided at a per month cost?  

Anyway because I know very litle about the subject any advise and or comments would be appreciated.

Edited by sirineou
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Same grass as southern Florida (I'm originally from Ft. Lauderdale) pretty hardy stuff. Thing is you will need to water it everyday for about 2 weeks until the roots gown in to the top soil. We have guys that do common area maintenance as we live in a development so we use to get them do do maintenance on our yard. 10 years later we have no grass just concrete and a small strip of open dirt around the exterior wall for shrubs.

IMGP0495.JPG

Edited by Rdrokit
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1 hour ago, Rdrokit said:

Same grass as southern Florida (I'm originally from Ft. Lauderdale) pretty hardy stuff. Thing is you will need to water it everyday for about 2 weeks until the roots gown in to the top soil. We have guys that do common area maintenance as we live in a development so we use to get them do do maintenance on our yard. 10 years later we have no grass just concrete and a small strip of open dirt around the exterior wall for shrubs.

IMGP0495.JPG

I am about 20 min north of Daytona  where we have 

Saint augustine grass

Bahia , which is what I have 

and Bermuda 

What Grass do you have in south FL

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I have been here about 18 years and if had to do it all over again I wouldn't build/buy anything/real estate in this country because you can own anything. Even if you could it could be confiscated at any time by the military. Just ask the farmers from ISAN what happened to their property.

Edited by uffe123
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grass:

we have over the years slowly changed our lawn (similar to Bahia) to a broadleafed grass (similar to St. Augustine). reason: plant a tree with dense foliage = grass below dies.

 

sprinkler:

with a sketch (house and lot) design is a breeze. but you should also have some idea where you'll plant what. bring parts from Florida! sprinkler heads in Thailand are either cheap and shoddy quality or outrageously expensive.  shopping list:

-timer

-4 solenoid valves

-rain shut-off gadget

-above ground sprinkler heads

-no need for any PVC parts

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Considering your absence , I would go with a largish area of gravel .  Particularly at the front ... most of  it can later be raked off when you are there to attend to a new lawn ( and you really need to be there )..  A bit mixed through the lawn soil wont hurt a new lawn.

For now the gravel would be accompanied with a large bottle of herbicide like 'Round Up ' and somebody to spot weed any thing that starts growing through the gravel once a week.

  The good soil you have laid wont go to waste - it will stay good soil.  If you've noted the price of Mangos , I 'd put in a high quality young Mango  tree ( maybe a meter high ) now  ,  and place it where I envisaged people  would be sitting under for shade   one day. Somewhere to the right of the dog in your pic.

Maybe a coconut  well away from the house.

Also consider rows of Areca Palms for a hot fenceline . They can grow quite high bit , provide great shade , and  are not particularly messy.

The rest of the garden would wait till someone was permanently in attendance.Image result for Areca Palm pics

 

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1 hour ago, zaZa9 said:

Considering your absence , I would go with a largish area of gravel .  Particularly at the front ... most of  it can later be raked off when you are there to attend to a new lawn ( and you really need to be there )..  A bit mixed through the lawn soil wont hurt a new lawn.

For now the gravel would be accompanied with a large bottle of herbicide like 'Round Up ' and somebody to spot weed any thing that starts growing through the gravel once a week.

  The good soil you have laid wont go to waste - it will stay good soil.  If you've noted the price of Mangos , I 'd put in a high quality young Mango  tree ( maybe a meter high ) now  ,  and place it where I envisaged people  would be sitting under for shade   one day. Somewhere to the right of the dog in your pic.

Maybe a coconut  well away from the house.

Also consider rows of Areca Palms for a hot fenceline . They can grow quite high bit , provide great shade , and  are not particularly messy.

The rest of the garden would wait till someone was permanently in attendance.Image result for Areca Palm pics

 

Zaza presume those are your Areca Palms.

 

We would like to hide a neighbour on one short side and they look just the job.

The big question is what size to plant? Price? and how long to grow to same height as yours?

 

The other things is the wife had some very big stands of bamboo cut down as she thought they were a danger of falling on the neighbour;s building near the fence....in fact a 20m long length did fall and broke a couple of cheap tiles . Can yours by trimmed back somehow to prevent breaking and fallen high winds or from rot?

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5 hours ago, zaZa9 said:

Considering your absence , I would go with a largish area of gravel .  Particularly at the front ... most of  it can later be raked off when you are there to attend to a new lawn ( and you really need to be there )..  A bit mixed through the lawn soil wont hurt a new lawn.

For now the gravel would be accompanied with a large bottle of herbicide like 'Round Up ' and somebody to spot weed any thing that starts growing through the gravel once a week.

  The good soil you have laid wont go to waste - it will stay good soil.  If you've noted the price of Mangos , I 'd put in a high quality young Mango  tree ( maybe a meter high ) now  ,  and place it where I envisaged people  would be sitting under for shade   one day. Somewhere to the right of the dog in your pic.

Maybe a coconut  well away from the house.

Also consider rows of Areca Palms for a hot fenceline . They can grow quite high bit , provide great shade , and  are not particularly messy.

The rest of the garden would wait till someone was permanently in attendance.

 

 

. Funny you would say that, about Mangoes, Wife was saying the same thing and a couple of days ago planted this Mango Tree and a smaller pomegranate tree. I asked her to buy a Kaffir Lime tree

28236551_576639849351023_850803779_n.jpg?oh=ae3fece8b199113019d9a4bcb81e624e&oe=5A9136B2

 I am having that tree stump next to it cut down to the ground later this week.

I like those palm trees for neighbor cover my the fence,. I forwarded a picture to the wife and asked her to look in to it.

 

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13 hours ago, Naam said:

grass:

we have over the years slowly changed our lawn (similar to Bahia) to a broadleafed grass (similar to St. Augustine). reason: plant a tree with dense foliage = grass below dies.

 

sprinkler:

with a sketch (house and lot) design is a breeze. but you should also have some idea where you'll plant what. bring parts from Florida! sprinkler heads in Thailand are either cheap and shoddy quality or outrageously expensive.  shopping list:

-timer

-4 solenoid valves

-rain shut-off gadget

-above ground sprinkler heads

-no need for any PVC parts

Not sure if I can use US electrical timers and solenoids,in Thailand 

Rainbird and others have some very nice, and inexpensive WiFi controller units that can be controlled and activated from anywhere in the world but so far everything I see states 

 120V input 24v output

image.png.05c22ba6a49096ebb8261aae9ea3b295.png

I assume all the solenoids regardless of US or Thailand are 24v so that's not a problem but the 120 V input is. I wonder if any of them are dual voltage? 

I will have to research it. 

Edited by sirineou
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